DirtyD
Well-Known Member
Me too. Mods please edit only one quote thanks!
My baby
Moved the logo to the bottom
Modnote: You're welcome
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VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use
- Thread starter Pipes
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- dynavap induction heat vapcap
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many thanks
mourningbell
Certified human
Made my own vapcap induction heater. Wish I had a glass tube for the coil.. works well enough, I just have to be careful pulling the vapcap out of the hole. My 12v 8a power adapter works, but the clicks are quite spaced apart, which means I have to give it (seconds-between-clicks x 2) extra seconds after the clicks before taking it out to really get any vapor.
Cool quick testing setup. However, I hope that your not using as a permanent device like that. It has disaster written all over it.
1/You should have a non-latching switch for manual operation.
2/Cardboard is not a good enclosure for obvious fire risk reasons.
3/Need something under the coil so the VC doesn't burn the bottom.
I recommend you tighten the radius down some. I'm using an ID of 17mm.
Good luck and well done!
So here is a little inside to the making of the coil assembly.
I start with making the LEDs and tach switches to be pre formed and wired.
Then I pretube all the coils.
Get what's needed all together.
Drop in the LED assembly.
Drop in the tach switch with the positive leg beside the tach switch wire which I left bare.
Apply heat from heat gun or lighter.
While still hot, push the sides over and align the tach switch to center.
Twist and solder the two + leads together.
Followed by some thin shrink wrap. And that's it. From here, there are 3 leads from the LED/switch cluster. One for switched ground to activate the LEDs, one for the trigger from the Tach switch and the last one goes to V+. This part is the same for all my units. The coil legs are bent different, pending on orientation and model.
1/You should have a non-latching switch for manual operation.
2/Cardboard is not a good enclosure for obvious fire risk reasons.
3/Need something under the coil so the VC doesn't burn the bottom.
I recommend you tighten the radius down some. I'm using an ID of 17mm.
Good luck and well done!
So here is a little inside to the making of the coil assembly.
I start with making the LEDs and tach switches to be pre formed and wired.
Then I pretube all the coils.
Get what's needed all together.
Drop in the LED assembly.
Drop in the tach switch with the positive leg beside the tach switch wire which I left bare.
Apply heat from heat gun or lighter.
While still hot, push the sides over and align the tach switch to center.
Twist and solder the two + leads together.
Followed by some thin shrink wrap. And that's it. From here, there are 3 leads from the LED/switch cluster. One for switched ground to activate the LEDs, one for the trigger from the Tach switch and the last one goes to V+. This part is the same for all my units. The coil legs are bent different, pending on orientation and model.
I'd say normal. The work coil will build up heat when powered up. This is why it should only be powered while actually using it.
It needs a bit of a cool down period. Should not be a problem unless you have 10 people lined up to heat their VCs. In which case, I missed the invite........
It needs a bit of a cool down period. Should not be a problem unless you have 10 people lined up to heat their VCs. In which case, I missed the invite........
Thanks for the info!I'd say normal. The work coil will build up heat when powered up. This is why it should only be powered while actually using it.
It needs a bit of a cool down period. Should not be a problem unless you have 10 people lined up to heat their VCs. In which case, I missed the invite........
In case this helps anyone, I used it to tweak my coil a bit
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/direct-current/chpt-15/factors-affecting-inductance/
I have tested my own self built IH for a couple of extra times and I must say I think I have a design flaw somewhere, mainly in the coil itself. I am gonna take it apart and get the tactile switch below the induction coil so that my vapcap needs to be insterted more into the coil.
@DataRocks That is very informative, I can use that! Thanks for posting!
@DataRocks That is very informative, I can use that! Thanks for posting!
ew91
Well-Known Member
I've had my PS mini for just over a week now and it's worth every penny. I get just about two 10 hr work days of dipping out of a charge (at least 6-8 tips a day) It only takes about an hour or so to fully charge too! It's so much more portable than my Skelly, which has been relegated to dipping around the house/garage/room.
@Pipes Thanks so much for your IH's! The VapCap was a game changer for me, your IH upped the whole experience.
Anyone on the fence, get one! No ragrets!
@Pipes Thanks so much for your IH's! The VapCap was a game changer for me, your IH upped the whole experience.
Anyone on the fence, get one! No ragrets!
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DirtyD
Well-Known Member
@ew91 - I completely agree. When I got my skelly, it changed the game. But, the Mini ( had mine a couple weeks) is even a step up from skelly. I think @stark1 mentioned it before the mini is somehow more powerful. What a solid unit. Was impressed with the skelly and still am, but the mini feels like it gives "crisper ,more precise heating/hits/clicks." My observations, but I just assumed the mini ,being smaller, would be weaker, way shorter charge life. Not so. This thing is a badass machine. I'd own many of these if I could afford,. Super satisfied with pipes mini- exceeded my expectations big time. Thanks Pipes and f c . Cheers, D
ew91
Well-Known Member
@DirtyD Your post mirrors my experience exactly! I too, love my Skelly, but the PS mini is really at another level. @phattpiggie said it best when he called it 'fierce.' I think the LiPo and it's higher discharge rating in the mini compared to the 18650's in the Skelly makes it so fierce! 
beyond6strings
Just another traveller in the Cannaverse
ew91
Well-Known Member
@cpk I have 2 new un-etched caps that have been used in my Skelly and Mini for several weeks and the color of the bodies haven't changed, part of the etched Dynavap logo towards the tip (clicker part) is slightly darker. But, they're still nice and shiny. Oddly, the etched cap bodies all discolored after a few dips in the IH's. The discoloring is even but definitely darker. I used 3 of the 4 I bought and the unused one is still shiny, so they definitely changed color. 
None of these caps have ever seen a torch.
None of these caps have ever seen a torch.
Dynalowrider
Well-Known Member
My Mini is in route. Is there anything I need for when it arrives? I have a JH, that I love. Any tips are appreciated. Doc
Hippie
Well-Known Member
Woohoo!
Thank you @Pipes
My PSMini arrived in perfect order this morning (posted to the UK on the 14th)
Apart from a Vapcap and something to put in it, in my box I got everything you need (PSMini, a charger and an international adapter for the charger)
Can anyone tell me if it's the same charger for the Skeletor and PSMini pls?
Thank you @Pipes
My PSMini arrived in perfect order this morning (posted to the UK on the 14th
)Apart from a Vapcap and something to put in it, in my box I got everything you need (PSMini, a charger and an international adapter for the charger)
Can anyone tell me if it's the same charger for the Skeletor and PSMini pls?
ew91
Well-Known Member
passenger
is this thing on?
Because I just forgot the count between recharges, I took a new approach to see how many completed bowls one full charge contains.
And it will take a while for me to reach the end of the count, I think it's quite insane.
After 29 bowls the charge indicator dropped from 5 to 4.
(Portside.)
And it will take a while for me to reach the end of the count, I think it's quite insane.
After 29 bowls the charge indicator dropped from 5 to 4.
(Portside.)