VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use

C

CIWYW

Well-Known Member
Phenix said:
How does it work agai: how do I have to connect the IH, the glass tube, and the tactile button?
And is it alright that the cap won’t even touch the coil itself ?

Would really appreciate guidance ...
Click to expand...
Yes sir. You have to order some parts, check what kind of version you want (batteries, power adapter or RC battery) and order the parts that goes with that version. You can check Pipes' signature when you click on the images.

Yeah it works with induction, that means that only metals get warmed inside the coil. A couple of pages back, Pipes also posted a schematic, which helped me tremendously. I think it's page 67

EDIT: So I made a small change to my Induction Heater and I think it s a bit better but not as I want it to. It still takes a bit too long, I think I need to get it even more into the coil. If I check it real quick, it only warms up the very tip of the vapcap not the whole cap.

Also what kind of wood do you guys use between the trigger and the vapcap? Because mine keeps burning. Maybe because I keep it in too long?
 
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Phenix

Phenix

Well-Known Member
I will look trough the thread later, once I’m at my pc.
Actually I already ordered all parts, and I’m just waiting on a few: however I figured I could start working on it already,

In the end it’s somewhat like
Coil, glass tube connected with shrink tubing, switch (with mentioned wood piece) connect with shrink tubing as well.

Is this alright ?
 
Phenix,
A

Andreaerdna

If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
CIWYW said:
I just finished my own Portside built . But wen I use it my trigger / clicker gets melted on top of my Vapcap, how can I fix this? Do I need to put something between the clicker and the v apcap? Maybe cork or something? Or do I need to move the clicker way down so that my vapcap goes "deeper" in to the coil?

Thanks guys
Click to expand...

Yes you need something heat insulator to put between clicker and cap as cap will get very hot

Also, momentary switch should not be in the induction coil IIRC
 
C

CIWYW

Well-Known Member
Andreaerdna said:
Yes you need something heat insulator to put between clicker and cap as cap will get very hot

Also, momentary switch should not be in the induction coil IIRC
Click to expand...
Oh, I have the switch in the coil itself. I saw Pipes' design and I think it's in the coil also.
 
CIWYW,
A

Andreaerdna

If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
Maybe I am wrong but IIrC there is a wooden barrel between cap and switch and the switch itself was at the end of the coil but I may be wrong

I did my own too but I choose another kind of switch so my memory about this matter could be wrong
 
oddjobold

oddjobold

Vape swap shop
Had my PS Mini about a week now. Its exactly what everyone says - a game changer. Allows much finer presicion heating compared to a lighter. Its also far more stealthy. The PSmini is not jean pocket sized but is jacket pocket sized.

Bit gutted - i got drunk and stoned and knocked it off a table on the first night of owning it. Few scrapes to the paint work - but all works fine. Must be more carefull!

:bang:
 
Phenix

Phenix

Well-Known Member
@phattpiggie
"square of the switch butts up against the glass tube, O ring keeps it central.
A small piece of dowel is held on the plastic switch button with heat shrink.
Coil goes over the glass."

Do I use heatsink to fix the glass tube and button assembly to the coil?
 
Phenix,
phattpiggie

phattpiggie

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
@Phenix here's a couple of pictures of the one's I have which show how @Pipes goes about it.
I'd imagine he can field strip one blindfolded by now.
E7uZd9w.jpg

You can see the square shape of the tactile switch where the cables go in, bottom of the coil.
Attach all the wires to the switch, put the glass in the coil and invert it. VC end flat on a table.
O ring and switch placed in the coil with the cables coming off towards the mosfet switch board.

To get the heatshrink to fit nicely on the switch and tube you need to cut a small hole in it for the lower leg of the coil.
I have heatshrink which is flat when it arrives, I found it easier to make a couple of small cuts in one edge in a V shape pointing to the other side of the heatshrink.

If I've explianed that properly you should be able to remove a small square, if not swear at me anytime.

Push the lower leg thru the hole and manipulate it over the coil and switch, when I applied heat to the heatshrink I used a tooth pick and held the switch firmly in place just to make sure it didn't move around when the stuff shrinks on one side.


Here's the coil in my two part heater which I've moved the capacitors around on.
When this one is returned it will get a Li po as I much prefer the 25C battery over my 18650's.
It felt fierce to start with but there is no going back now. Hope this helps.
Q6nBUVH.jpg
 
Pipes

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
To answer the question of the wooden dowelling used. I was getting it from the hardware store but found it in the $Dollar store in the craft area. 1/4" is the right size. As noted, it gets scorched as time goes on. This process is actually hardening the wood as did our ancestors to harden their spear tips. Not to worry as should slow to a halt once wood is good and hard.



And here is the jig I made to measure, cut, sand, and collect the little wooden spacers all with one step. I just feed the dowelling while twisting it to get the circumference cut without side chipping.
This turned a shitty task to an enjoyable one. The piece of foam there fits over the container and keeps the wooden spacers from jumping out as they get shot into it. :science:

 
SafeTFirst

SafeTFirst

Member
phattpiggie said:
@CIWYW here's the picture, I posted from my fone earlier and it doesn't always play the game. Left hand cable go to the heater. Out on the board.
lobAlQ9.jpg


.
Click to expand...

Hi phattpiggie,

Is your small blue wire coming from the switch connected at the same place on the board as the larger blue wire on the left side of this picture?

I'm still trying to grasp how to connect both the kill switch and the tactile switch to the FET.

Thanks!
 
SafeTFirst,
phattpiggie

phattpiggie

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
@SafeTFirst Yes the blue switch wire, negative, goes to the heater negative. Sorry for it being hidden in the picture.

If I was to wire a kill switch in the pictured circuit it would be like this.
The right hand brown wire, positive, coming off the DC jack would be cut and the switched wired in line here.
This way the heater cannot get any power unless the switch is on.
 
SafeTFirst

SafeTFirst

Member
phattpiggie said:
@SafeTFirst Yes the blue switch wire, negative, goes to the heater negative. Sorry for it being hidden in the picture.

If I was to wire a kill switch in the pictured circuit it would be like this.
The right hand brown wire, positive, coming off the DC jack would be cut and the switched wired in line here.
This way the heater cannot get any power unless the switch is on.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the prompt response! This helps give me an idea on the schematics. Trying to plan this out while I wait for all of my parts to arrive (hopefully by Monday!)

Cheers
 
SafeTFirst,
elykpeace

elykpeace

exVASted
Pipes said:
To answer the question of the wooden dowelling used. I was getting it from the hardware store but found it in the $Dollar store in the craft area. 1/4" is the right size. As noted, it gets scorched as time goes on. This process is actually hardening the wood as did our ancestors to harden their spear tips. Not to worry as should slow to a halt once wood is good and hard.



And here is the jig I made to measure, cut, sand, and collect the little wooden spacers all with one step. I just feed the dowelling while twisting it to get the circumference cut without side chipping.
This turned a shitty task to an enjoyable one. The piece of foam there fits over the container and keeps the wooden spacers from jumping out as they get shot into it. :science:

Click to expand...



Love the way your mind works
 
elykpeace,
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SafeTFirst

SafeTFirst

Member
Wondering if my diagram logically makes sense for how I want to wire my IH. Uploading from mobile so we'll see how this goes.

OQmOuUyh.jpg


The battery I ordered is LiPo and has an XT60 connection already so I'm trying to work with those when I can. Does this diagram logically make sense/should it work?

I wasn't sure about wiring the tactile switch. Below are two schemes I saw @Pipes has it one way, shown above, but @phattpiggie has it a another way shown below on the left. Is one way more correct than the other? I also wondered if it matters if you switch polarities as shown on the right below. Or is this all maker's choice?

oM0Kwt9h.jpg


Cheers

Edit because I forgot to thank Pipes for drawing his diagram a few pages back, it really helps!
 
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SafeTFirst,
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Pipes

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Your diagrams are all in-correct I'm afraid. The tach switch goes between the V+ (positive) and the trigger, not the ground. Or you'll just be shorting out the switch.
Not sure what @phattpiggie was thinking. Maybe he was doing his multi puff technique before he posted... :shrug:
BTW, the large solder pad and the two small ones for trigger are all the same spot electrically.
 
phattpiggie

phattpiggie

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
ABG2dLZ.jpg

@SafeTFirst yes mine is wired up with the tactile connected to the TRIG/PWM and the negative out.

I soldered the one side of the switch to the TRIG, trigger, and found thru trial and error that it worked with the negative out.

Beat me to it @Pipes but the ones I have only worked the way I wired it up so I stuck with it.
I was going to add I'm no expert and feel free to correct me.
Will get time over the weekend to try the way you suggest.

I'll take the fifth on the multi puff tech.:lol:
 
Pipes

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Good to know. I had a batch of 50 that I thought were all bad. Maybe your wiring method will make them work. :science:
Once I deplete my stock of these FET switches, I'm moving away from the pre-made switches to a single FET and resistor. Have already tested and works just as well and don't have to worry so much about this switch being a point of failure. Not that they are bad but have had a couple fail from bad components and/or solder baths being poor. Going further down the road, want to eliminate the china made boards all together, and their unpredictable quality. :tup:
 
phattpiggie

phattpiggie

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
It's the ones I said about that wouldn't light the onboard LED but do allow the power thru.
They have all been reworked by the looks of it as well.

Edit. That's going to be a long bloody road judging by their popularity.
 
beyond6strings

beyond6strings

Just another traveller in the Cannaverse
The mail brought more joy this afternoon. @Mr.Sifter this may not be to your taste but I find the quality at least equal to the price I paid-you can't ask more than that.

Even though it's much smaller than I imagined it does a fine job cooling the vapor. And the small size makes it easier to store.

7PRwzym.jpg


I'm going to really enjoy watching the Olympics.
 
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