VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use
- Thread starter Pipes
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- dynavap induction heat vapcap
I think the tie you which you are talking about is just to help hold it together while shipping. (Skeletor) Removal is expected.
The chargers are fine. I was only speaking of the "supply" for desktop versions. Some maybe trying to make on their own, so was just a caution note for them.
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
So, I can't figure out from the pics where the power brick connects to the Jarhead. There seems to be only the one port on the jar lid for the VC. Obviously there is no port in the glass. Where does the brick connect?
Also I read that someone had a magnet on the underside of the lid as a cap cooler like the Dynashash. Is that standard from Pipes or was that his own mod?
Edit: Nevermind, I found pics showing a port through the glass (surprised) and discussion of the magnet which apparently IS standard. While it may be easy to find a replacement Bell jar, that hole in the glass would be beyond me.
Also I read that someone had a magnet on the underside of the lid as a cap cooler like the Dynashash. Is that standard from Pipes or was that his own mod?
Edit: Nevermind, I found pics showing a port through the glass (surprised) and discussion of the magnet which apparently IS standard. While it may be easy to find a replacement Bell jar, that hole in the glass would be beyond me.
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Ok, my Jarhead II is here.. and fabulous..
@Pipes, bad news bro.. i see little to no free time in your future.. once the word gets out, you are going to be swamped to the gills with orders..
A friend stopped by, questioned what it was.. i showed him.. then, he offered to buy it from me. Nope.. but i told him where he can get his very own.
Thanks for your continued work on this thing, it rocks!
@Pipes, bad news bro.. i see little to no free time in your future.. once the word gets out, you are going to be swamped to the gills with orders..
A friend stopped by, questioned what it was.. i showed him.. then, he offered to buy it from me. Nope.. but i told him where he can get his very own.
Thanks for your continued work on this thing, it rocks!
You have me scratching my head here. How is the Omni cap getting snagged. Is not the cap part the same in bottom design?
Regardless, something is catching the opening between the center button and the outer Oring. This can be remedied by slicing a thin piece of cork and cutting it to the hole diameter. Let it reside on top of the switch so it covers the opening around the button. Keep it under 1mm if possible as will alter the heating some.
Possible problem solved..? Let us know.
Sketch420
Well-Known Member
The cap is simply flawed. No problem with skeletor @Pipes
I switched caps and everything is fine. The sharp edge of the Ti tip is locking into the 'inside' top of this particular cap when 'pressure is applied' to activate the skeletor. Heat and pressure lock the cap on pretty damn tight. All other caps work perfectly it is just a bum cap the gets stuck on 'this' Ti tip.
The skeletor is not the problem in anyway. Sorry I wasn't more clear but it took me a minute to figure things out.
Wonderful invention! I am loving this thing.
I too am having that problem but to be fair this is my orignal cap that has seen a ton of use and i tend to push a but hard. It's sticking in the same place but just slightly. I'm gonna keep using it till it becomes an issue, then i have plenty of backup caps. Either way it's worth it to use the portside, this thing is a beast and it is so nice not to have to use a torch every time. Keep up the great work @Pipes your knocking it out the park!
Hello i'm a new user of this forum.. Can i be added to the waiting list to buy a portside ?? I'm from France ..
I've had mine to bits again, still trying to get it as portable as possible.
Walnut 'power bank' type thing, just need to finish the lid then work out a smaller enclosure for the heater itself.
My battery gauge didn't last long, the wires are really thin and all the rough handling caused them to break at the solder joints which is impossible to get to. I'll order another one at some point and hot glue them in place.
TBH I don't miss it, once the batteries get to a certain point the heater doesn't work properly, last time was 3.6v. Three and a bit hours charge time is great.
'As is' the battery pack will just fit in a jeans front pocket, it'll all look much better once it's all rounded off nicely.
I may leave the capacitors where they are and use the space above them to put a magnet in the wood. Then again I may not.
Desk top version will be so much easier to house.
Walnut 'power bank' type thing, just need to finish the lid then work out a smaller enclosure for the heater itself.
My battery gauge didn't last long, the wires are really thin and all the rough handling caused them to break at the solder joints which is impossible to get to. I'll order another one at some point and hot glue them in place.
TBH I don't miss it, once the batteries get to a certain point the heater doesn't work properly, last time was 3.6v. Three and a bit hours charge time is great.
'As is' the battery pack will just fit in a jeans front pocket, it'll all look much better once it's all rounded off nicely.
I may leave the capacitors where they are and use the space above them to put a magnet in the wood. Then again I may not.
Desk top version will be so much easier to house.
Squiby
Well-Known Member
Interesting innovation Phattpiggie. I look forward to seeing the finished product.
just another tidbit, and more to ponder about..@phattpiggie What's important is to keep the capacitors as close as possible to the work coil. Technically, you can put the driving circuitry, including the two yellow chokes, next to the battery.
This would result in a minimal heating end unit which consists of a work coil and capacitor bank (coil+cap = "tank"), and the switch. The interconnect would have to change though, as you would need two conductors for the tank and two for the switch.
While in operation, most of the energy transfer is between the capacitors and the work coil. The pair can be thought of as a swing, like with a kid on it in a park. On a swing, energy goes from potential energy - the potential for gravity to force it to accelerate towards the ground, and kinetic energy - the speed it has accumulated during it's fall. Someone just needs to give a little push to compensate for losses. So, the tank is very similar, converting energy between magnetic field in the coil and electric field in the caps. The driving circuit just pushes a little on each side, at the right time.
Anyway, since most of the energy transfer is in the tank, the wires between the tank and driving circuit don't need to be overly beefy.. similar to those of the power supply should suffice. Just make sure the coil and caps are close and well connected.
Keep us updated, I love seeing everyones mods
a quick (45 seconds) demo of my new Jarhead II, i only held for a 2 count after the clicks... the conversion from mp4 to webm and dropping the audio track, got it a bit desynced, but you get the idea
https://my.mixtape.moe/ljrmtd.webm
https://my.mixtape.moe/ljrmtd.webm
Hogni
Honi soit qui mal y pense
What are your exeriences in heating times? Mine so far:
Respect the click: pre-heating + 1-2 first hits w/ flower for flavour (= light-mid brown ABV)
click + 1-2 sec: last hits w/flower(-> roasted coffee brown ABV) and
pre-heating and first 2-3 hits w/hash for flavour
click + 3 sec: further hits w/ hash
click + 4 sec: combustion of completely dried flower (may already happen at click + 3 sec) and sometimes also completely dried hash.
But all ABV is absolutely evenly coloured - great device!
Respect the click: pre-heating + 1-2 first hits w/ flower for flavour (= light-mid brown ABV)
click + 1-2 sec: last hits w/flower(-> roasted coffee brown ABV) and
pre-heating and first 2-3 hits w/hash for flavour
click + 3 sec: further hits w/ hash
click + 4 sec: combustion of completely dried flower (may already happen at click + 3 sec) and sometimes also completely dried hash.
But all ABV is absolutely evenly coloured - great device!
i dont preheat, i just hold it for a 2, sometimes 3 count after click.. usually a 2 count is enough, but i have not tried any hash or other concentrate in combination with the portside yet..
i have held in for a 5 count, after the click.. on a fresh bowl, its pretty hot, but didnt combust. however if i were to hold in for a 5 count on a used bowl (thats dryer) im sure it'd combust..
stickstones
Vapor concierge
Wow, everyone seems to be loving this device. Pleases me to no end. Thanks for all the great feedback. Fantastic!
Now, just giving a last call notice for the Portsides. Only two spots left for the next batch, so if you're on the fence about this model, best think quick.
Skeletors and Jarheads are still not a problem right now. and waits are only a week or two.
Now, just giving a last call notice for the Portsides. Only two spots left for the next batch, so if you're on the fence about this model, best think quick.
Skeletors and Jarheads are still not a problem right now. and waits are only a week or two.
Squiby
Well-Known Member
I follow the advice given here, sorry can't remember who.
Heat to the click, then count 1 1000, 2 1000, 3 1000, 4. Remove and toke.
Lovely and nice.
vaporist4LIFE
Well-Known Member
MonkeyTime
Well-Known Member
Clear testament to the devices build, functionality and I'll be damned if it ain't got the WOW factor!
Diggy Smalls
Notorious
That funny. Not that it needs a fix, but that you're DIYing it while you wait. And your method makes me chuckle a little bit. There's nothing wrong with it, I'm actually reminded of something I would do when I saw your photo.
Side thought: I wonder if marbles would be an option? Fill marbles in around it and Walla?
Side thought: I wonder if marbles would be an option? Fill marbles in around it and Walla?
