VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use
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CharmCityVapeGuy
Known to some and enigma to others
Got my invoice the other day, now I'm just patiently (OK, maybe impatiently... 
) waiting for my Skeletor to be delivered. Batteries are scheduled to be delivered by the end of the day, and the wood I'm using to make the box showed up today. Here's a peek:
Gotta love curly maple!
) waiting for my Skeletor to be delivered. Batteries are scheduled to be delivered by the end of the day, and the wood I'm using to make the box showed up today. Here's a peek:
Gotta love curly maple!
Today is my day to be 'normal'. No vaping until after 10pm and no turning whatsoever.
So of all the days for the Postie to drop a box off it had to be today, I broke with my Wednesday routine and snuck in a half M bowl.
Respect where respect is due, my electronics knowledge is fair to shite and I could have cobbled one of these together but when @Pipes took the job on I knew it would be safer for him to do it than me.
Many thanks Pipes, it works and works bloody well.
Knew it was close when yours arrived @emmdeemo.
COME ON THURSDAY.
So of all the days for the Postie to drop a box off it had to be today, I broke with my Wednesday routine and snuck in a half M bowl.
Respect where respect is due, my electronics knowledge is fair to shite and I could have cobbled one of these together but when @Pipes took the job on I knew it would be safer for him to do it than me.
Many thanks Pipes, it works and works bloody well.
Knew it was close when yours arrived @emmdeemo.
COME ON THURSDAY.
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stickstones
Vapor concierge
Squiby
Well-Known Member
I received my Skelator Induction Heater last week. It came packed VERY WELL. After unpacking and freeing the wires to the switch, test panel and charger connection, I put it to the test...
And test it I did. This contraption is so totally easy to use, completely silent save for the click and brings the Vapcap to near instant toking temps, within a few seconds really. I ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT!
It will stay naked until I find a suitable home for it. Something not too large and certainly not too small. Something beautiful for sure.
Anyway, after much deliberation, I've decided that the Skelator will remain by my bedside to be used at night. It is perfect for this application. It doesn't take up much room on the bedside table and the red glow lets you see what you are doing. As long as you have a preloaded Vapcap, bing bang boom, you're back to sleep before you can say "Rip Van Winkle took 20 winks".
I highly recommend this treasure. It's a great convenience for those situations where using a lighter is awkward or too noisy, or for any reason at all really.
The Skelator exceeded my expectations. Fantastic device. Every Vapcapper should invest in one of @Pipes Induction models.
And test it I did. This contraption is so totally easy to use, completely silent save for the click and brings the Vapcap to near instant toking temps, within a few seconds really. I ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT!
It will stay naked until I find a suitable home for it. Something not too large and certainly not too small. Something beautiful for sure.
Anyway, after much deliberation, I've decided that the Skelator will remain by my bedside to be used at night. It is perfect for this application. It doesn't take up much room on the bedside table and the red glow lets you see what you are doing. As long as you have a preloaded Vapcap, bing bang boom, you're back to sleep before you can say "Rip Van Winkle took 20 winks".
I highly recommend this treasure. It's a great convenience for those situations where using a lighter is awkward or too noisy, or for any reason at all really.
The Skelator exceeded my expectations. Fantastic device. Every Vapcapper should invest in one of @Pipes Induction models.
@Squiby I like to use mine naked too, so liberating, but I put clothes on for this.
@Pipes you've no idea how much I personally appreciate you dedicating time to this 'project', I never imagined there would be enough ferric material to make it even click let alone work so well.
No spinning, no worries with the wind, the click is louder probably due to no torch noise.
Heat beyond the click for thicker vapor first cycle as @emmdeemo has found or pre-heat and toke second cycle, heat in between clicks.
As much if not more control as a butane torch.
Only complaint is my usage has gone up, it's as convenient as a log.
Really looking forward to seeing what enclosures people come up with.
This takes the VC into another world.
, but I put clothes on for this.@Pipes you've no idea how much I personally appreciate you dedicating time to this 'project', I never imagined there would be enough ferric material to make it even click let alone work so well.
No spinning, no worries with the wind, the click is louder probably due to no torch noise.
Heat beyond the click for thicker vapor first cycle as @emmdeemo has found or pre-heat and toke second cycle, heat in between clicks.
As much if not more control as a butane torch.
Only complaint is my usage has gone up, it's as convenient as a log.
Really looking forward to seeing what enclosures people come up with.
This takes the VC into another world.
Dear Mr Piggie, I notice your glass tube is sticking out quite a bit. I learnt from Pipes and my own experiments that the exact distance the tube sticks out determines how far down the cap the heat reaches, and hence how long it takes to reach a click.@Squiby I like to use mine naked too, so liberating
@Pipes you've no idea how much I personally appreciate you dedicating time to this 'project', I never imagined there would be enough ferric material to make it even click let alone work so well.
No spinning, no worries with the wind, the click is louder probably due to no torch noise.
Heat beyond the click for thicker vapor first cycle as @emmdeemo has found or pre-heat and toke second cycle, heat in between clicks.
As much if not more control as a butane torch.
Only complaint is my usage has gone up, it's as convenient as a log.
Really looking forward to seeing what enclosures people come up with.
This takes the VC into another world.
Pipes said it is intended to be 3 or 4 mm. The further down the tube sits in the coil, the lower the heat reaches on the cap/tip, and hence the longer it takes to reach click.
So when the tube is further out, as yours is, it is more necesary to go past the click for larger hits.
This may explain variation between different units. It can be adjusted to preference. If you wish you could maybe experiment before you house it to find your preference.
My own induction heater was damaged in transit, I still havent glued the heater back to the jar lid yet. I have been waiting until I am in better health and able to mentally function and enjoy my vapor properly, in order to experiment and establish exactlly how far I want the tube to stick out of the coil, before I glue it together again.
I have it set quite deep, like 2.5 mm out, for a longer click, lower bowl heating, but havent done enough trials and the project got put on hold.
It arrived sticking out about 9 mm, and I was failing to get satisfactory vapor before I adjusted it. The click was very quick, like 3 seconds and only the top part of the load was cooking, and unevenly too.
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Thank for your concern @Alexis, however, these tubes are now slightly different from first batch. They are now 16mm diameter rather then 17mm
and they are also now a couple mils longer and therefore have a little more glass showing.
Valid point about the insertion depth, as it does varies the click speed because your changing the focus point of eddie lines to be closer or further from the tip. The set point I have them setup for, will vary slightly from cap to cap as well, but think they are sitting in a very usable place. The worst case would be a too late click and overheated herb.
and they are also now a couple mils longer and therefore have a little more glass showing.
Valid point about the insertion depth, as it does varies the click speed because your changing the focus point of eddie lines to be closer or further from the tip. The set point I have them setup for, will vary slightly from cap to cap as well, but think they are sitting in a very usable place. The worst case would be a too late click and overheated herb.
Thank you Pipes for clarifying this for everybody. It's ironic- it is largely because without my jarhead being fixed together yet, it is awkward, and therefore not so enjoyable to use, and my living space is rather untidy as is my mental headspace for the same reason- that I have not persevered with testing the jarhead yet to make sure I have it where I want it.
So it has been put on hold during a turmultuos time lately, plus the simple task of glueing it accurately, no mistakes is something I didnt want to attempt with my brain and abilities so compromised.
When I get around to it, hopefully soon, if I get on well with the jarhead, I will hope to add my name to a near-future list for portsides, as I dont think I can use the torches anymore.
(That is, once the official "Portside" factory opens, run entirely by A.I. machines which you will invent and kick back!)
So keep up the terrific work Pipes, and I wish to say how admirable it is that you not only run this joint single handedly, but your responsiveness end generosity post wise on this forum is second to none!
Anybody would think you are like many of us idol stoners, and that you already have the A.I. units waiting on you nut and bolt!
Huge respect and always humbled by good men such as yourself!
So it has been put on hold during a turmultuos time lately, plus the simple task of glueing it accurately, no mistakes is something I didnt want to attempt with my brain and abilities so compromised.
When I get around to it, hopefully soon, if I get on well with the jarhead, I will hope to add my name to a near-future list for portsides, as I dont think I can use the torches anymore.
(That is, once the official "Portside" factory opens, run entirely by A.I. machines which you will invent and kick back!
)Very true, but conversely, if one feels the need to always go way beyond the click, that too could lead to combustion.
So keep up the terrific work Pipes, and I wish to say how admirable it is that you not only run this joint single handedly, but your responsiveness end generosity post wise on this forum is second to none!
Anybody would think you are like many of us idol stoners, and that you already have the A.I. units waiting on you nut and bolt!
Huge respect and always humbled by good men such as yourself!
Excellent how very British, love it.
If you need any help then get in touch we can coordinate something to get it up and running.
Apparently we may be in for some good weather, make the most of the free vitamin D as you can.
Came home from work to find my Skeletor waiting in the mailbox for me. It showed up 3 days earlier than the tracking had estimated. A welcome surprise! 
I've got it on the charger now; in a few hours I'll be testing it out! Waiting for it to charge is killing me... It's even worse than waiting for it to be delivered!! At least I can have a Tic Tac while I wait!
Thanks again @Pipes for everything! You rock!
I've got it on the charger now; in a few hours I'll be testing it out! Waiting for it to charge is killing me... It's even worse than waiting for it to be delivered!! At least I can have a Tic Tac while I wait!
Thanks again @Pipes for everything! You rock!
virtualpurple
Well-Known Member
Hey guys, can the portside be used without batteries while plugged in?
I received mine last night and was unable to get it to heat. I was already headed to bed so I had to toss in some batteries and plug in. I will recheck when I get home from work today but figured I would ask while I've got a minute at work.
Thanks,
VP
I received mine last night and was unable to get it to heat. I was already headed to bed so I had to toss in some batteries and plug in. I will recheck when I get home from work today but figured I would ask while I've got a minute at work.
Thanks,
VP
Hey VP. You have your JH power supply, so you can use that. BUT, without batteries installed.
PM me if your having troubles getting it to charge or not working. Might just be battery polarity or kill switch type of thing.
Also, will want to know what the charger LED light is indicating.
PM me if your having troubles getting it to charge or not working. Might just be battery polarity or kill switch type of thing.
Also, will want to know what the charger LED light is indicating.
Yup yup. I havent quite settled yet, but a count of "1 1000, 2 1000, 3 1000, 4" after the click is pretty much where I'm finding my sweet spot. I speak fast btw, just in case anyone decides to try that timing out*.
*I take no responsibility for any one elses combustion events!
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@emmdeemo I at about the same but I'm also adding heat between clicks or after the first.
If vapor production isn't enough I'm back in the coil for a couple or three more.
The click comes quick especially after the first cycle, but it seems more manageable than my torch.
I'm on an M bowl so it will differ from the Ti, once I've depleted this charge I'll change tips and see how much difference there is.
I'm at 36 bowls since Wednesday evening and I'm down to one blue, green and red led's.
My consumption is up since I got it.
This has taken the most joint like vaporizer a massive step closer to a spliff.
Doing re-heats between tokes reminds me of relighting neat single skinners.
A sessionable VC.
Saturday nights posts were done with ear buds in, music was at a medium level.
I only missed the click a couple of times in the beginning, it was barely audible but I'm getting well in tune for the feel.
People with hearing problems shouldn't have any problems.
Again this is my M tip and one of my segmented stems, others may get different results.
If vapor production isn't enough I'm back in the coil for a couple or three more.
The click comes quick especially after the first cycle, but it seems more manageable than my torch.
I'm on an M bowl so it will differ from the Ti, once I've depleted this charge I'll change tips and see how much difference there is.
I'm at 36 bowls since Wednesday evening and I'm down to one blue, green and red led's.
My consumption is up since I got it.
This has taken the most joint like vaporizer a massive step closer to a spliff.
Doing re-heats between tokes reminds me of relighting neat single skinners.
A sessionable VC.
Saturday nights posts were done with ear buds in, music was at a medium level.
I only missed the click a couple of times in the beginning, it was barely audible but I'm getting well in tune for the feel.
People with hearing problems shouldn't have any problems.
Again this is my M tip and one of my segmented stems, others may get different results.
needalift
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure how many bowls I've vaped since I got my portside . Usually 3 bowls a day after work at 4-5 heat cycles per and a few more bowls heated the same on the weekend . I'm using brand new LG hg2s and I'm only down one blue dot on the battery indicator . That's impressive since I've had it for 9 days . I also took it to a friends house where 3 other people used it over several sessions !!!! I mentioned this in the vapcap thread , but another plus to this heater is that you can definitely feel the click . It jumps a little when it clicks . This is great for anyone who has trouble hearing the click , or if you are somewhere loud or listening to music Edit - I am a little slow at times and see now that @phattpiggie beat me to this point
Edit - I am a little slow at times and see now that @phattpiggie beat me to this pointWhen you put your vapcap in the glass tube , did you push in with a little force to activate the heater ??? I'm sure you probably did , but I had to ask .
Bring on the butane
My tally landed at 39 bowls to a charge.
Batteries ended up at 3.33, 3.34 and 3.39.
Nice and safe level to stop at.
No blue Led on the charge indicator and when the switch was pressed the red Led came on and went off seconds later.
I'm going to stick with the M tip and try the different caps I have and see what happens.
Then do it all again with my Ti.
@Pipes great little device, love it
But as with everything I get I've now a need to take it to bits
Is there anything special about the driver board capacitors?
I've had a look and was wondering if I could replace them with something either psychically smaller or a different shape and move them?
And why a pair paralleled, can just one be used.
My tally landed at 39 bowls to a charge.
Batteries ended up at 3.33, 3.34 and 3.39.
Nice and safe level to stop at.
No blue Led on the charge indicator and when the switch was pressed the red Led came on and went off seconds later.
I'm going to stick with the M tip and try the different caps I have and see what happens.
Then do it all again with my Ti.
@Pipes great little device, love it
But as with everything I get I've now a need to take it to bits
Is there anything special about the driver board capacitors?
I've had a look and was wondering if I could replace them with something either psychically smaller or a different shape and move them?
And why a pair paralleled, can just one be used.
The capacitors are of a special high voltage/frequency breed. Lower voltage and frequency rated caps will not work for any length of time.
Changing the value by removing one might work but you would be changing some switching speed characteristics and therefore may cause performance issues, as well as, excessive load on the FETs. Unless you are willing to replace shorted FETs, best not alter from original design.
However, where's the fun in that?
Changing the value by removing one might work but you would be changing some switching speed characteristics and therefore may cause performance issues, as well as, excessive load on the FETs. Unless you are willing to replace shorted FETs, best not alter from original design.
However, where's the fun in that?
Make sure to use MKP capacitors. take a look at this mouser filter for more or less what you can use.
The most direct effect of changing caps is the resonant frequency.
Decreasing capacitance will increase the frequency.
The biggest issue of a higher frequency is thermal load on the transistors, as they spend a larger portion of time in a less efficient state.
The general power consumption also drops a little with lower capacitance (and efficiency decreases), so you don't want to go too low.
It's nice to play around with, and there are a few noticeable difference in behaviour from heat penetration differences,, total power*efficiency, but the end results are pretty similar
My build is currently using 2x0.22uF for 0.44uF total which I like. I've used a single 0.33 which also worked well, but the cap would get a bit warm.
You could probably get away with 1x0.33 if you're using conservatively. I'd feel the parts for excessive heat, and would probably avoid taking it to any excessive use environments. Spreading the load over multiple caps is probably a better idea.
The board I'm designing has space for 4x 0.15~0.22uF caps.
Work has been busy as hell the last few weeks, but is quieting down a little now that we're over some large releases. I've neglected my induction project as a result, but I'm pretty much done designing my prototype board. I could keep designing for ages though its really a testbed so I don't need to over-over-engineer it. I've ordered the parts already. I just need to go over the board a final time and send it to get made In the meantime, my prototype is pulling along nicely, keeping me chillaxed through the last few weeks 
The most direct effect of changing caps is the resonant frequency.
Decreasing capacitance will increase the frequency.
The biggest issue of a higher frequency is thermal load on the transistors, as they spend a larger portion of time in a less efficient state.
The general power consumption also drops a little with lower capacitance (and efficiency decreases), so you don't want to go too low.
It's nice to play around with, and there are a few noticeable difference in behaviour from heat penetration differences,, total power*efficiency, but the end results are pretty similar
My build is currently using 2x0.22uF for 0.44uF total which I like. I've used a single 0.33 which also worked well, but the cap would get a bit warm.
You could probably get away with 1x0.33 if you're using conservatively. I'd feel the parts for excessive heat, and would probably avoid taking it to any excessive use environments. Spreading the load over multiple caps is probably a better idea.
The board I'm designing has space for 4x 0.15~0.22uF caps.
Work has been busy as hell the last few weeks, but is quieting down a little now that we're over some large releases. I've neglected my induction project as a result, but I'm pretty much done designing my prototype board. I could keep designing for ages though its really a testbed so I don't need to over-over-engineer it. I've ordered the parts already. I just need to go over the board a final time and send it to get made
In the meantime, my prototype is pulling along nicely, keeping me chillaxed through the last few weeks 
StormyPinkness
Rhymenocerous ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
