ander
Well-Known Member
So it wasn't exactly a bullshit..!Can I "light" it on my induction cooktop beside my coffee pot..?
It's a pleasure to see you inventing, guys.
VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use
- Thread starter Pipes
- Start date
-
- Tags
- dynavap induction heat vapcap
It's a pleasure to see you inventing, guys.
Too funny. Had a chuckle reading this as it brought back memories of standing around the old stove waiting for your turn at the hot knives in the 70s, now, 40 years later, I can see everyone standing around a new stove poking their VCs against the surface. Some things never change much...lol
Squiby
Well-Known Member
I still have some of those old knives with their burnt tips hanging around here somewhere!
Andreaerdna
If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
As promised here is the box I used for my first VC iduction station
https://www.amazon.fr/gp/aw/d/B01EH...mboo+boite&dpPl=1&dpID=41q-tfScSFL&ref=plSrch
I used a 2.1mm female jack connected to a high current switch (on-off), I do not remember where I got it, it is rated 15 or 20A.
This switch power a FET module (the one Pipes recommended at the beginning of the thread) that is triggered by a momentary tactile button / "Angel eye" (it is rated for 3A so not enough to use it directly (even if I did for some times before receiving FeT board).
I added also a red Led that power on when coil is heating (connected to the coil input connections)
I used a drill, a dremel multi tool, a dremel glue gun and a soldering iron.
Take care to order a good power supply, you want a constant current (CC) mode (versus constant voltage CV) as it will not be overpowered. I am still using a CV one I ordered by mistake and 2 out of three coil I used overpower it if I try to put cap all in and heating becomes inconstant.
I did not rearrange coil as Pipes did, I accommodate my temp of clicking by putting the head of the cap (where click happens) more or less towards the center of the coil or spreading the coil in order to create a "window" in the middle of the coil leaving the clicking disks in a zone with less coil activity.
Sorry, it was not very detailed but time is tight these days and I did a new box with this identical electric configuration yesterday. I will show soon a family picture: box is aluminum and is 100x66x43mm, I had to fight to fit all in but it is quite nice.
I am waiting for battery management system board and battery holder as it seems to be the best solution (Pipes docet)
I would like to celebrate the first vape I know or heard about that is driven by induction: it can be portable with a very good energy management (no waste of energy), and is an open project, this is fuckin great!
Congratulations to @Pipes (and thank you again) and @VapCap for this premiere, we should honor this event with a induction celebrating cap
https://www.amazon.fr/gp/aw/d/B01EH...mboo+boite&dpPl=1&dpID=41q-tfScSFL&ref=plSrch
I used a 2.1mm female jack connected to a high current switch (on-off), I do not remember where I got it, it is rated 15 or 20A.
This switch power a FET module (the one Pipes recommended at the beginning of the thread) that is triggered by a momentary tactile button / "Angel eye" (it is rated for 3A so not enough to use it directly (even if I did for some times before receiving FeT board).
I added also a red Led that power on when coil is heating (connected to the coil input connections)
I used a drill, a dremel multi tool, a dremel glue gun and a soldering iron.
Take care to order a good power supply, you want a constant current (CC) mode (versus constant voltage CV) as it will not be overpowered. I am still using a CV one I ordered by mistake and 2 out of three coil I used overpower it if I try to put cap all in and heating becomes inconstant.
I did not rearrange coil as Pipes did, I accommodate my temp of clicking by putting the head of the cap (where click happens) more or less towards the center of the coil or spreading the coil in order to create a "window" in the middle of the coil leaving the clicking disks in a zone with less coil activity.
Sorry, it was not very detailed but time is tight these days and I did a new box with this identical electric configuration yesterday. I will show soon a family picture: box is aluminum and is 100x66x43mm, I had to fight to fit all in but it is quite nice.
I am waiting for battery management system board and battery holder as it seems to be the best solution (Pipes docet)
I would like to celebrate the first vape I know or heard about that is driven by induction: it can be portable with a very good energy management (no waste of energy), and is an open project, this is fuckin great!
Congratulations to @Pipes (and thank you again) and @VapCap for this premiere, we should honor this event with a induction celebrating cap
*plainlazy*
Well-Known Member
@Andreaerdna thanks for the above its excellent. One question is the wooden box big enough for all the bits to make the induction heater work from mains, car cigarette lighter and also 18650s?
Andreaerdna
If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
You r welcome @*plainlazy*
Car cig lighter do not need anything more me believe. Battery pack maybe could be arranged inside, there is room and I wasted a lot of if it to fit looks more than fonctionality/ space economy.
When I receive battery order will check and tell.
Also I FORGET A BIG WARNING! Electric and wood can be dangerous for fire hazard even if wood is less sensible to electric shocks). This box was made with experimentation pourpose in mind (easy access to insides and fully accessible coil) I plan to use it in a safe environment (at worst it will burn itself). A fire retardant paint as Pipes suggested me would be very wise to adopt.
Car cig lighter do not need anything more me believe. Battery pack maybe could be arranged inside, there is room and I wasted a lot of if it to fit looks more than fonctionality/ space economy.
When I receive battery order will check and tell.
Also I FORGET A BIG WARNING! Electric and wood can be dangerous for fire hazard even if wood is less sensible to electric shocks). This box was made with experimentation pourpose in mind (easy access to insides and fully accessible coil) I plan to use it in a safe environment (at worst it will burn itself). A fire retardant paint as Pipes suggested me would be very wise to adopt.
I haven't ordered that ZVS assembly yet. Fortunately, power supplies seem to have lots of the relevant parts.
It also helps to have a bunch of parts lying around from amp building days. I think I just need to find suitable transistors and a PS. I have a bunch of 19v laptop supplies lying around (~60/90W) which should do. Will go with some simple royer osc. circuit..
It also helps to have a bunch of parts lying around from amp building days. I think I just need to find suitable transistors and a PS. I have a bunch of 19v laptop supplies lying around (~60/90W) which should do. Will go with some simple royer osc. circuit..
flotntoke
thoroughly vaped
As promised here is the box I used for my first VC iduction station
https://www.amazon.fr/gp/aw/d/B01EH...mboo+boite&dpPl=1&dpID=41q-tfScSFL&ref=plSrch
I used a 2.1mm female jack connected to a high current switch (on-off), I do not remember where I got it, it is rated 15 or 20A.
This switch power a FET module (the one Pipes recommended at the beginning of the thread) that is triggered by a momentary tactile button / "Angel eye" (it is rated for 3A so not enough to use it directly (even if I did for some times before receiving FeT board).
I added also a red Led that power on when coil is heating (connected to the coil input connections)
I used a drill, a dremel multi tool, a dremel glue gun and a soldering iron.
Take care to order a good power supply, you want a constant current (CC) mode (versus constant voltage CV) as it will not be overpowered. I am still using a CV one I ordered by mistake and 2 out of three coil I used overpower it if I try to put cap all in and heating becomes inconstant.
I did not rearrange coil as Pipes did, I accommodate my temp of clicking by putting the head of the cap (where click happens) more or less towards the center of the coil or spreading the coil in order to create a "window" in the middle of the coil leaving the clicking disks in a zone with less coil activity.
Sorry, it was not very detailed but time is tight these days and I did a new box with this identical electric configuration yesterday. I will show soon a family picture: box is aluminum and is 100x66x43mm, I had to fight to fit all in but it is quite nice.
I am waiting for battery management system board and battery holder as it seems to be the best solution (Pipes docet)
I would like to celebrate the first vape I know or heard about that is driven by induction: it can be portable with a very good energy management (no waste of energy), and is an open project, this is fuckin great!
Congratulations to @Pipes (and thank you again) and @VapCap for this premiere, we should honor this event with a induction celebrating cap
Many thanks!!!!!! I'm trying to learn all I can here from you and the awesome @Pipes before trying to do something myself, but am leaning towards a box like this with either battery or stepped down A/C to D/C power.
Andreaerdna
If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
You are welcome. It is a very rewarding hobby indeed, I cannot claim how much I like my new VapCap use while reading or watching a show or cooking, no more need for two hands and focus. Solo is getting less attention as VC and induction is like a solo on demand
i should receive battery board and holder in a couple of week but I have faith (after hearing Pipes report) that it will be the best way to go.
Hey guys, as @Andreaerdna mentioned, the use of an on-board battery power system seems to make more and more sense.
After the car adapter testing, the realization of how much power we need hits home. Even using for short bursts requires a hefty supply to keep up. The supply I have been testing with, and have many of, works but on the "light" side. It seems many supplies behave differently when they approach their maximum rated power.
Regardless, I think it boils down to two options. We go for a supply that can put out the 12 volt, 12 amps and call it a day. Or we go for hitting two birds with one stone with the on-board battery solution.
Although, the second option will introduce a delay, I think the wait will be worth it. Not to mention, I'm still sitting on a bunch of supplies and was all geared up to go.
The benefit of the battery option is a 12.6 volt Li-ion charger is all we will need for the supply. All the high current activity is done close to the coil in the enclosure. Portability is standard in the design. Cost of BMS circuit, battery holder and charger will be less than a single huge power supply. The actual battery cost will likely balance it out.
Only downside is the physical size or package will need addressing again...
Plus...delays, which is not nice...
So for now,
I'm on it!
After the car adapter testing, the realization of how much power we need hits home. Even using for short bursts requires a hefty supply to keep up. The supply I have been testing with, and have many of, works but on the "light" side. It seems many supplies behave differently when they approach their maximum rated power.
Regardless, I think it boils down to two options. We go for a supply that can put out the 12 volt, 12 amps and call it a day. Or we go for hitting two birds with one stone with the on-board battery solution.
Although, the second option will introduce a delay, I think the wait will be worth it. Not to mention, I'm still sitting on a bunch of supplies and was all geared up to go.
The benefit of the battery option is a 12.6 volt Li-ion charger is all we will need for the supply. All the high current activity is done close to the coil in the enclosure. Portability is standard in the design. Cost of BMS circuit, battery holder and charger will be less than a single huge power supply. The actual battery cost will likely balance it out.
Only downside is the physical size or package will need addressing again...
Plus...delays, which is not nice...
So for now,
I'm on it!
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GreenHopper
20 going on 60
Hey guys, as @Andreaerdna mentioned, the use of an on-board battery power system seems to make more and more sense.
After the car adapter testing, the realization of how much power we need hits home. Even using for short bursts requires a hefty supply to keep up. The supply I have been testing with, and have many of, works but on the "light" side. It seems many supplies behave differently when they approach their maximum rated power.
Regardless, I think it boils down to two options. We go for a supply that can put out the 12 volt, 12 amps and call it a day. Or we go for hitting two birds with one stone with the on-board battery solution.
Although, the second option will introduce a delay, I think the wait will be worth it. Not to mention, I'm still sitting on a bunch of supplies and was all geared up to go.
The benefit of the battery option is a 12.6 volt Li-ion charger is all we will need for the supply. All the high current activity is done close to the coil in the enclosure. Portability is standard in the design. Cost of BMS circuit, battery holder and charger will be less than a single huge power supply. The actual battery cost will likely balance it out.
Only downside is the physical size or package will need addressing again...
Plus...delays, which is not nice...
So for now,
My vote is for the battery solution.
I'm not worried about delays and I think it would be a more functional design.
Diggy Smalls
Notorious
For me, a lighter is where it's at when using the vapcap out of the house. I hate batteries, which is one of the reasons I love the vapcap so much.
For me in literally just interested in making the vapcap flame free in the house.
For me in literally just interested in making the vapcap flame free in the house.
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If anyone, that is currently on my list, feels the same way about only using at home, shoot me a PM.
Home only units I can make up now. However, I'm not comfortable with using in the car unless direct wired with inline fuse. So officially, I'm not recommending it as an advertised option.
Home only units I can make up now. However, I'm not comfortable with using in the car unless direct wired with inline fuse. So officially, I'm not recommending it as an advertised option.
flotntoke
thoroughly vaped
Hey guys, as @Andreaerdna mentioned, the use of an on-board battery power system seems to make more and more sense.
After the car adapter testing, the realization of how much power we need hits home. Even using for short bursts requires a hefty supply to keep up. The supply I have been testing with, and have many of, works but on the "light" side. It seems many supplies behave differently when they approach their maximum rated power.
Regardless, I think it boils down to two options. We go for a supply that can put out the 12 volt, 12 amps and call it a day. Or we go for hitting two birds with one stone with the on-board battery solution.
Although, the second option will introduce a delay, I think the wait will be worth it. Not to mention, I'm still sitting on a bunch of supplies and was all geared up to go.
The benefit of the battery option is a 12.6 volt Li-ion charger is all we will need for the supply. All the high current activity is done close to the coil in the enclosure. Portability is standard in the design. Cost of BMS circuit, battery holder and charger will be less than a single huge power supply. The actual battery cost will likely balance it out.
Only downside is the physical size or package will need addressing again...
Plus...delays, which is not nice...
So for now,
Count me as another in favor of the battery option. Much more portable, though can still be used at home. And, my charger already can run off the cig lighter outlet in the car!
Sketch420
Well-Known Member
I'm down either way, its mostly for home but would be nice out and about when a lighter just isn't feasible. Everything's been coming along nicely, the final product will be well worth it!
What interesting is, have you seen what you started @Pipes ? Someone is using the coil to do induction dabbing, inventive.
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/i...-with-arduino-closed-loop-temp-control.22605/
What interesting is, have you seen what you started @Pipes ? Someone is using the coil to do induction dabbing, inventive.
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/i...-with-arduino-closed-loop-temp-control.22605/
Wow, was just going through the links and looks like there is some Nail mods happening in a few areas. Cool stuff.
I liked this setup.
Thanks @Sketch420 !!
I liked this setup.
Thanks @Sketch420 !!
hardboiledfrog
tinkerer
awesome project @Pipes !!! this is a perfect application for induction heating. 
you can vary power as you have done by adjusting the coil and you can also vary the number of turns and diameter within reason, try to work with about the same gauge and length or longer wire as the original coil. I use bare 12 AWG solid house wire and AlphaWire high temperature sleeving because of the smell of the original coil at the temps I was running.
my work coil is 6 turns closely spaced with a 21mm inside diameter which draws about 12A - 13A until the liger hits setpoint then it modulates between about 3A - 4A. this runs the ZVS module at it's max ratings briefly for less than 2 minutes and so far it's been holding up very well.
great work!
keep it coming. 
you can vary power as you have done by adjusting the coil and you can also vary the number of turns and diameter within reason, try to work with about the same gauge and length or longer wire as the original coil. I use bare 12 AWG solid house wire and AlphaWire high temperature sleeving because of the smell of the original coil at the temps I was running.
my work coil is 6 turns closely spaced with a 21mm inside diameter which draws about 12A - 13A until the liger hits setpoint then it modulates between about 3A - 4A. this runs the ZVS module at it's max ratings briefly for less than 2 minutes and so far it's been holding up very well.
great work!
keep it coming.
Thanks @hardboiledfrog, a fun project for sure.
I received some 16 AWG wire to play with. A little thin but we are only pulsing for 15 seconds at most. Heat up will be quicker but on the other hand, cool down will be quicker too.
So I have 30 of everything on order to make the on board battery solution. Only thing not ordered is a suitable enclosure.
I had written down the measurements for the more or less standard sized aluminum DIY boxes offered by Ali and made 3D proportional mock ups. The only one without going huge, is a 95mmx55mmx100mm Box. But not from that guy as he wants too much for shipping. But now know that size exists. Need to find cheap, cheap, cheap, somewhere...?
Anyone have any ideas on finding this sized box at a reasonable price, please jump in with links.
I received some 16 AWG wire to play with. A little thin but we are only pulsing for 15 seconds at most. Heat up will be quicker but on the other hand, cool down will be quicker too.
So I have 30 of everything on order to make the on board battery solution. Only thing not ordered is a suitable enclosure.
I had written down the measurements for the more or less standard sized aluminum DIY boxes offered by Ali and made 3D proportional mock ups. The only one without going huge, is a 95mmx55mmx100mm Box. But not from that guy as he wants too much for shipping. But now know that size exists. Need to find cheap, cheap, cheap, somewhere...?
Anyone have any ideas on finding this sized box at a reasonable price, please jump in with links.
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
100x50x100, I call it good enough, and with free shipping thank you very much >> http://www.banggood.com/Aluminum-PC...oject-Electronic-DIY-10010050mm-p-982711.html
and even cheaper, same size >> http://www.banggood.com/Aluminum-PC...ct-Electronic-DIY-100x100x50mm-p-1003868.html
and even cheaper, same size >> http://www.banggood.com/Aluminum-PC...ct-Electronic-DIY-100x100x50mm-p-1003868.html
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GreenHopper
20 going on 60
Same thing on eBay.co.uk for £6.69 Free Postage:
Aluminum PCB Instrument Enclosure Case Project Box Electronic DIY 100*100*50MM UK
or $8.15 + $0.49 postage if you are stateside:
Aluminum PCB Instrument Box Enclosure Electronic Project Case DIY - 100*100*50mm USA
I ordered a single piece at the more expensive price from Banggood to make sure it's what we need.
Still works out cheaper for me than the Ebay units.
Looks like it's going to be the most expensive item of the parts.
Might check into DHGate or Alibaba but once you start there, they never leave you alone...lol
Like stepping in shit and can never get it off your shoe. Can get stuff quick if you find a good score though.
Still works out cheaper for me than the Ebay units.
Looks like it's going to be the most expensive item of the parts.
Might check into DHGate or Alibaba but once you start there, they never leave you alone...lol
Like stepping in shit and can never get it off your shoe. Can get stuff quick if you find a good score though.
Andreaerdna
If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
Here my last baby I was talking about, feeling like I am done but I have already ordered the bigger aluminum case for a self contained battery unit
can't stop myselfBut if I have to choose, the possibility to use both way is the way I prefer (DC and battery)
