Alright, do I get some kind of gold star for reading through the entire thread?
The last few pages, there have been several requests for laying it all out ect. Guys, pipes has really done an excellent job making this as easy as possible. If the world conducted business like Pipes it would be a better place.
The lithium battery aspect of this is about the only way to make this project simpler. If you want a happy medium between the portside and the jarhead just grab something like a 5ah 12v sla battery from amazon. These batteries are much larger and heavier but they still allow you to carry it to your front porch and enjoy the day. This battery will run the IH for a really long time. To charge it just stick any 12 volt charger on it. I would keep it under 4 amps though. Most car battery chargers will have a 2 amp option and this should be perfect.
(Random side thought on battery basics. There has been a bit of confusion. From what I know, keep your lithium batteries in the 20-80% charge range as often as possible. This will ensure you get maximum life out them. Stopping at 80% will be tough but anything to keep the batteries from setting at the tip top voltage will keep them functioning longer. If you charge it to 100% go grab the dynavap and bring the voltage down a bit
. For lead acid (SLA) batteries keep those topped off as often as you can. Try to never discharge them more than %50 and it will be solid for many years to come. )
OK here is my slightly simplified version of Pipes design:
Order online:
Scavenge/buy local
- 1/4 hardwood dowel (hardwood will hold up to the heat better than the softwood dowels you will find at hobby stores)
- 18 AWG wire (this is what I used, someone chime in if this is unsafe)
- 1/4 plywood (your local cabinet shop throws small pieces of this away everyday)
- Hardwood block (This should be sized about 1/16th" shorter than your glass tube. Ask the cabinet shop to cut it for you if you do not have a tablesaw)
- Wood glue and hot glue
To hold the glass tube I drilled a hole that is larger than the Dynvap cap, but smaller than the OD of the glass tube on 2 of the 1/4 plywood pieces. Then I chamfered the holes on one side. This combined with the slightly smaller size of the wood block allows the glass tube to lock in but, at least in my case I can still easily pop it out and in if needed.
As far as the wiring goes, it is pretty much all visible but for those that have questions, the back of the fet board is labeled.
Vin+ is Battery+ - I soldered the red wire to the switch to under side of the screw terminal
Vin - is Battery-
Trig/pwm is the yellow wire from the switch
Out+/Out- goes to the induction heater.