VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use

tuuwie

tuuwie

New Member
In my exploration of trying to fix my ZVS board, I have uncovered lots of info on this build.
Full credit to everyone on this thread for helping with all the info so far.
I'd like to share some of the videos's I've uncovered as well for people that might be interested in building their own induction heaters. Doesnt seem too complicated, but definitely needs soldering knowledge and electrical know how.


This video is by far the best out of the lot. He's even linked a site to get the PCB's printed.
I think this is a good alternative to buying the ZVS + MOSFET trigger boards as most of these parts should be available in the local electronic market for far cheaper.
Good luck to everyone
 
M

MAbud

Well-Known Member
Quick question...so I plug in my unit to charge, turn it on and wait an hour or two till the light turns green. However, every time I put the first cap under load and press the test button I only get two of the three blue lights lit up. Am I doing something wrong to not get full charge?
 
MAbud,
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Pipes

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Yes, perfectly normal. It should drop at least one led when under the VC load. This is why it's good to check under load for a more accurate reading towards the lower end of charge. Other wise it will show full until the close to the end and drop off fast.
 
Joaon

Joaon

Well-Known Member
@Pipes, I have a question :
My skeletor is behaving weirdly lately, in won't take into account the internal switch that is pushed when vapcap is inserted. I now have to shut it down with the main, or it will overheat.. Red led is now always on also
Any idea? :shrug:
 
Joaon,
Pipes

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Hmm, it's about 10 months old now, does it still feel clicky when you push down the VC?
If not, it might be stuck down and needs a good cleaning.
Take a paper clip and straiten it out. Now use pliers to bend one end to fashion a small hook. Insert between the button and o-ring until it rests low enough to twist the hook under the o-ring and snag it out.
Grab a couple Q-tips and clean the tube and switch post with ISO. At this point, ensure good clicky action of the switch.
Now use the cap off a pen or marker to push the O-ring back down the tube to be just under the top of the switch.
If this doesn't remedy, shoot me a PM as you might need a new switch tube or driver assembly pending your soldering skill level. ;)
 
bossman

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
My Jarhead arrived today and I love it. So civilized. Do I leave it plugged in when not in use? I mostly vape evenings.

Thanks @Pipes!
 
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cybrguy

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
bossman said:
My Jarhead arrived today and I love it. So civilized. Do I leave it plugged in when not in use? I mostly vape evenings.

Thanks @Pipes!
Click to expand...
I have thought about that, and do unplug it sometimes, but it is never warm and shouldn't use much power so I haven't been very concerned about it. I think all these power bricks consume SOME energy at rest (there is an led for example) but this one seems fine.
Leaving it plugged in may reduce its lifetime some, but I'm not sure.

@Pipes please tell us what you think, as my thinking its OK to leave it plugged in is just a guess, and it would be simple enough to unplug it. I have one of those watt miser things around here somewhere but I can never find it when I need it. :rolleyes:

Added: OK, I found my kill-a-watt thing. Looks like it consumes about .5 watts at rest. I did one test with switch engaged and it went to about 85 watts.
 
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just_the_flu

just_the_flu

they say im crazy but i have a good time
...those of you with a skeletor, how did/do you house them? or do you use them naked?



...sitting on the fence between getting a skeletor sooner than later... or waiting the time for a portside mini...
 
just_the_flu,
bossman

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Copy that, thanks again.

The Jarhead really is handy. I never thought I minded the torches. In my limited experience, the Jarhead induction heater is easier for producing consistent results.

And of course having both options ain't too shabby.
 
danjens

danjens

Well-Known Member
Just received my Jarhead from pipes. Can't say enough about this heater. I feel like this is the missing link with the dynavaps.
Torching on the go is fine, but its really nice to have on demand heat producing consistently vaped buds, every time.
If you're on the fence, pull the trigger.
-For reference, I am using the Jarhead with a dynavap M w/ Ti tip
 
Summer

Summer

Long Island, NY
just_the_flu said:
...those of you with a skeletor, how did/do you house them? or do you use them naked?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, you have to scroll through this thread to see the previously posted housings & keep on the lookout for any highlighted imgur links. I'd start in the middle of the thread & work my way backwards towards the beginning.
 
cybrguy

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
just_the_flu said:
...those of you with a skeletor, how did/do you house them? or do you use them naked?
Click to expand...
While there are a bunch of really good Skelly enclosures, in terms of sheer beauty this is my favorite. @phattpiggie made this for Mom and I find it totally awesome. :o
CtIJWq0.jpg

 
tuuwie

tuuwie

New Member
Hey all
In my attempt to get the IH board back up and running, I scoured the local market for the MOSFETs that were recommended here by you all but I couldn't find any SMDs.
I did manage to find a popular one that's through hole though I think - IRFZ44N. Just wondering if I can solder these on the module in anyway? Maybe off the board on some radial heatsyncs? Thoughts?
 
tuuwie,
wkndwarrior

wkndwarrior

Active Member
Do folks using induction find the cap falls off more easily with the vertical positioning and pulling it out? I have never really had to flex the cap to get it to stay on but I imagine you might have if placing it vertical.
 
wkndwarrior,
bizwaxzion

bizwaxzion

Enigmatic Cannabist
Nope - quite the opposite actually. Since the IH is activated by a switch in the bottom of the tube there's always a bit of downward force that firmly seats the cap.
 
bizwaxzion,
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cybrguy

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
wkndwarrior said:
Do folks using induction find the cap falls off more easily with the vertical positioning and pulling it out? I have never really had to flex the cap to get it to stay on but I imagine you might have if placing it vertical.
Click to expand...
I go out of my way to be sure there is enough friction to keep the cap from slipping off the tip at any time, and how much squeezing it takes depends on which gen of tip I am using. I have had a too loose cap end up on my lap (in shorts no less) so I have been incentivized to avoid that. I DO want it loose enough to easily come off with a magnet so it is a compromise, but a manageable one. If it is tight enough to not fall off easily it will be fine in the IH receiver, or at least that has been my experience.

I have no experience with using concentrates with a VC, but I can imagine a benefit of turning your device on it's side (or building your Skelly box with a horizontal receiver) to reduce gravity pulling your goods into the cap. A horizontal receiver would also allow you to keep a looser cap if you wanted that for some reason, but I would still be concerned about the cap coming off accidentally.
 
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