VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use

R

rz

Well-Known Member
@Fat Freddy you could go @phattpiggie on it when it's a little wispy, give it a little dunk to get some fresh oomph.

Yes. When battery drops it will take longer to click.. Which would lead to a hotter tip by click time and less post click waiting.

IH definitely has some quirks of its own, but it's s fun, so I'm sure you'll have plenty more practice ahead and will find what works best for you :)
 
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asdf420

Well-Known Member
I've combusted several times from trying to be like phattphiggie.. or I end up not getting it hot enough. Any tips?
 
asdf420,
phattpiggie

phattpiggie

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
@Fat Freddy which version do you have? I'm on the Mini.
The clicker buckles early in the IH so first cycle you will only get wispy vapor.
As the tip heat soaks you get more vapor production.
If you want thicker vapor then keep the VC on the heat after the click.
M tip I usually go 3-5 seconds longer on the first cycle.
Err on the side of caution, try one or two.

@asdf420 make sure you tamp the load by a couple of mm.
Which tip and IH?
SS is a bit more forgiving, Mini is more fierce.
 
Fat Freddy

Fat Freddy

FUCK CANCER TOO !
phattpiggie said:
@Fat Freddy which version do you have? I'm on the Mini.
The clicker buckles early in the IH so first cycle you will only get wispy vapor.
As the tip heat soaks you get more vapor production.
If you want thicker vapor then keep the VC on the heat after the click.
M tip I usually go 3-5 seconds longer on the first cycle.
Err on the side of caution, try one or two.

@asdf420 make sure you tamp the load by a couple of mm.
Which tip and IH?
SS is a bit more forgiving, Mini is more fierce.
Click to expand...

Thanks! The first time I had used it the clouds were almost nonexistent but there was certainly some vapor that I could taste. So I went with the extended count method on my second hit and it scorched pretty badly, such that I felt I needed to get the Q-tips and ISO out. So I will keep practicing until I get it right, damn it! :rockon::rockon::rockon:

.
 
phattpiggie

phattpiggie

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Apologies for the font change my fone has a mind of its own.

@Fat Freddy make sure and tamp the load, it's very important to keep the load well back from the clicker. 1.5-2mm.

They have some ferric content and get hot enough to scorch a load.

As the tip heat soaks you need less time on the power after the click.
I found this more with the Ti.
 
Fat Freddy

Fat Freddy

FUCK CANCER TOO !
Ah ha! Thanks! I'm using a ti woody, double crown right now but will try my M VC soon. I'll make sure to tamp the load away from the end of the cap!

.

Oh yeah! Come to daddy!

@phattpiggie the tamping immediately improved taste and clouds - THANKS!

But enough with the tips for now, you guys have my face dripping down to my chest! :wave::wave::wave:

EDIT: @phattpiggie , yes, I'm using the mini PS as well. Really changes the game with the VC's.
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Hackerman

Hackerman

User
@Pipes Hey bud, I am trying to make a basic, VERY easy DIY induction heater for people who don't have your skills. So far, mine is working with only 2 parts and the only requirement to assemble it is turning 4 screws. LOL

Anyway, why do we use the FET with the tactile switch? Can we eliminate the FET?

Thanks.

EDIT: Also, a 12 volt 6 amp power supply seems to be the optimum choice. There are plenty of those around but most don't specify whether they are constant current or constant voltage. And, the ones that do specify are usually constant voltage.

How important is the constant current supply (vs constant voltage) and is there an easy way to determine if it is CC or CV?

Thanks again
 
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Pipes

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Hackerman said:
@Pipes Hey bud, I am trying to make a basic, VERY easy DIY induction heater for people who don't have your skills. So far, mine is working with only 2 parts and the only requirement to assemble it is turning 4 screws. LOL

Anyway, why do we use the FET with the tactile switch? Can we eliminate the FET?

Thanks.

EDIT: Also, a 12 volt 6 amp power supply seems to be the optimum choice. There are plenty of those around but most don't specify whether they are constant current or constant voltage. And, the ones that do specify are usually constant voltage.

How important is the constant current supply (vs constant voltage) and is there an easy way to determine if it is CC or CV?

Thanks again
Click to expand...
Couple good questions.
The reason for the FET is because of the current the device takes while in operation and the need to have a "easy effort" activation switch. Tach switches are typically low current so can't use as a direct "in path" switch. However, it is possible to eliminate the FET if you use the tach switch to provide the gate voltage for the osculation drivers. The drivers can be powered 100% of the time and will not start to oscillate until the gate voltage is applied. @rz had mentioned this method a page or two back.
To use the gate switch technique, the driver board needs a little mod and soldering is involved. First off, you need to cut the print on the board to isolate the two input resisters from the V+ rail. Then you need to add a jumper to reattach the two resisters on the input side of things. This jumper will also be where you attach a tach switch switching to V+.



As for what power supplies work. This is hit and miss. The current rating is only part of it. Whether it's CC or CV was a theory but don't think it's the real key. The fact that some supplies work and some don't, even with the same rating, indicates it must be in the design of the safety circuits. In particular, the delay before it shuts off when over current is sensed. The supplies that work must have a longer delay and can handle surges better. That's my theory at least... :hmm: :science:
 
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Hackerman

Hackerman

User
Awesome, thanks.

I am attempting to make this doable for people with zero electronics ability so cutting traces and soldering jumpers is too much to ask them to do. I talked a bunch of people in another forum into buying VapCaps and most of them are dissatisfied so I am trying to come up with a SUPER simple IH for them.

So far, the IH driver itself is just insert the coil and tighten the screws. They can do that. I am looking for a power supply with an inline switch. I have one for my Raspberry Pi but it's only 5v. I'm sure I can get one with our required Voltage and amperage. That's why I was asking about the FET switch. If I can't eliminate that I fail...... ZERO SOLDERING, that's what I have to deal with. LOL If I have to I can use some Wagos or wire taps but even that is a little too much for some.

The tactile switch is out as it requires too much coordination. For the more advanced members, I may use a separate push button switch (in addition to or in place of the inline switch). That way it can not be left on by accident and simply sticking something in the hole will have no effect.

I am only about half way though this thread so many of my questions will probably be answered before I reach the end, However, if I can use nothing but the power supply and the IH board with coil, that would be great. Adding the glass tube might be OK if it is the exact size and shape to slip in the coil and fit the VC. Somehow I doubt that.

Thanks again. I'm sure I'll have at least one more question before I'm done. LOL

Again... thank you.
 
stinkbud

stinkbud

Well-Known Member
Hackerman said:
Awesome, thanks.

I am attempting to make this doable for people with zero electronics ability so cutting traces and soldering jumpers is too much to ask them to do. I talked a bunch of people in another forum into buying VapCaps and most of them are dissatisfied so I am trying to come up with a SUPER simple IH for them.

So far, the IH driver itself is just insert the coil and tighten the screws. They can do that. I am looking for a power supply with an inline switch. I have one for my Raspberry Pi but it's only 5v. I'm sure I can get one with our required Voltage and amperage. That's why I was asking about the FET switch. If I can't eliminate that I fail...... ZERO SOLDERING, that's what I have to deal with. LOL If I have to I can use some Wagos or wire taps but even that is a little too much for some.

The tactile switch is out as it requires too much coordination. For the more advanced members, I may use a separate push button switch (in addition to or in place of the inline switch). That way it can not be left on by accident and simply sticking something in the hole will have no effect.

I am only about half way though this thread so many of my questions will probably be answered before I reach the end, However, if I can use nothing but the power supply and the IH board with coil, that would be great. Adding the glass tube might be OK if it is the exact size and shape to slip in the coil and fit the VC. Somehow I doubt that.

Thanks again. I'm sure I'll have at least one more question before I'm done. LOL

Again... thank you.
Click to expand...

Can you link to the other board you are working with this? I am intrigued. While I am capable of soldering a little, certainly to the needs of a proper IH heater...I am hella lazy and I love the idea of getting it done with 4 screws and nothing else.

If I do decide to build one of these myself using spare parts and buying what's needed, where do I get the glass part inside the coil that holds the vacpcap while it heats? I have read maybe 15 pages of this thread and gave up on finding it. If anyone can help....thanks!
 
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stinkbud,
Hackerman

Hackerman

User
I am using the same module pipes is using. It's a "400w 15a mosfet switch". If you search what's in quotes, you'll find it. Here is one... https://www.ebay.com/i/302512946553?chn=ps

It depends whether you use ebay or amazon or if you want to wait for China or pay more for faster delivery. The run from about a dollar to about 10 dollars for the exact same thing.
 
Hippie

Hippie

Well-Known Member
stinkbud

stinkbud

Well-Known Member
Hackerman said:
I am using the same module pipes is using. It's a "400w 15a mosfet switch". If you search what's in quotes, you'll find it. Here is one... https://www.ebay.com/i/302512946553?chn=ps

It depends whether you use ebay or amazon or if you want to wait for China or pay more for faster delivery. The run from about a dollar to about 10 dollars for the exact same thing.
Click to expand...

Heh, when I said "board" I mean the other forum where you are describing your build. Sorry, I always call message boards "boards". Gotta stop doing that in forums that deal with people working with circuit boards.

Guys, thanks for the links. Of course the parts list is in Pipes FAQ. I never get past the order page to find his parts list so I never realized it was even there.
 
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Ernie1086

Well-Known Member
Help guys !! Sent pipes a message also just waiting for reply. Just was using my jarhead for a few cycles this morning and out of nowhere ( didn’t drop it, move power cord) it’s stopped heating my cap. When I compress the cap in the hole the blue light on the power cord goes out and no heat is coming from inside that coil. I hope it’s just the cord I have been searching my house for another cord that I can plug into back of jarhead to try and help identify the issue. If anyone has had a similar issue please help , I’m scared to go back to the lighter
 
cybrguy

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Has anyone had any issues using the Ti Omni in the JarHead? I don't usually use the Omni at home but I have used it in the JarHead a few times now and they don't seem to like each other much. The switch goes dark before the click as if there is a short interrupting or something. No spark or anything, just a dead switch. Tho I will admit I am loathe to hold it too long after going dark in case it is some connection issue.

Has anyone else experienced this? It DOES NOT HAPPEN with the Vongs I usually use, just the Ti Omni. I haven't been able to make the M17 do it either.
 
Pipes

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
I'm very curious to the answers to this question too. It sounds like the protection is kicking in. As the metal's temp rises, so does the current so your experiencing hitting the limit of the protection. The caps I've experimented with, generally are an amp under the limit.
Either, the Ti Omni has more ferrous material in it in general or your particular cap has a little extra..? There is also tolerances of the protection to consider. As in, the power supply you have trips a little low. Hard to say, so lets see if other's are experiencing this phenomena.
:sherlock:
 
Squiby

Squiby

Well-Known Member
cybrguy said:
The switch goes dark before the click as if there is a short interrupting or something. No spark or anything, just a dead switch. Tho I will admit I am loathe to hold it too long after going dark in case it is some connection issue.
Click to expand...
I've had this happen, it seems to come up intermittently. I've used a variety of tips and it never occurred to me that it was a tip issue and it makes me now wonder if it was with a specific tip of not.

Each time this happens, I try angling the Vapcap in the coil. Sometimes it works. If not, I charge it up and then everything's fine. This for sure hasn't happened at all with my skeltor freshly charged. I thought perhaps it was somehow a connection thing.
 
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