VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use
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kuzko
Well-Known Member
Received my Jarhead a few days ago, tbh I forgot that I needed to press down into the heater in order to turn it on so for a whole 5 minutes I thought it was broken haha. Once my brain came back to my body, I was able to use it flawlessly. It works better than I even thought, it heats up super quick. Thanks @Pipes for this wonderful device!
I haven't heard this before. Un-even heating yes, but not able to extract fully, no.
To answer your question, the batteries will make a difference along with herb condition, dipping depth, VC style and material will all play a roll. Generally, it's basically the same as the VC directions state, it takes getting to know your unit and the heating click is the reference to temperature. Only difference is no need to concentrate on torch positioning. However, you seem miss this extra step and likely have it down to an art.
Square4Life
Well-Known Member
I haven't heard this before. Un-even heating yes, but not able to extract fully, no.
To answer your question, the batteries will make a difference along with herb condition, dipping depth, VC style and material will all play a roll. Generally, it's basically the same as the VC directions state, it takes getting to know your unit and the heating click is the reference to temperature. Only difference is no need to concentrate on torch positioning. However, you seem miss this extra step and likely have it down to an art.
I don't mean to offend, but the uneven heating results in the area closest to the screen not getting as dark as the the rest. This is the area that is hard to extract fully. I feel I know my unit quite well
The abv will be a light yellow to very dark brown/black (screen side to bottom of cap).If you recall, I sanded my dowel very slightly initially as the ABV was much more uneven when I first got it. Perhaps, I need to take more off although at this point, I'd have to cut the rubber sleeve down some as well. Plus, I thought there was a reason one needed to be careful and not remove too much. What do you recommend?
I also thought it may be a dirty screen so I have cleaned everything up real good to eliminate this possibility, but the problem still occurs.
No worries though, just thought I'd get your thoughts. Thanks for the response.
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KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
The VTC3 is 30A CDR, like the LG HB6. Those are the only 30A cells on the market. The VTC4 is only about 23A CDR only.
If you want 30A you only get 1500mAh. The VTC4 being 2100mAh, something has to give and it's the C rating. I told you, never any free lunch with Li-Ion!
jerseydvd
Well-Known Member
What about the VTC6?
jerseydvd
Well-Known Member
So what are we really looking for in a battery? I was used to vaping at sub-ohm resistances in regulated devices mostly. I used different batteries for my Mech mod since the voltage dropoff was more important than capacity for the unregulated.
What continuous amperage should we be looking for?
Here’s an exhaustingly long video comparing VTC5A and VTC6. Great comparison, but I really need to know the continuous amperage needed to run the Portside effectively.
Thanks for any advice!
Here’s the video by the Mooch. Pretty much the king of battery testers.
On another note, if you have a portside, get yourself an external charger. Much better for the life of your batteries. I’ve used both Nitecore D4 and Efest Luc units. Think I prefer the efest. They have a new 4 bay model called the Lush q4 (I think) for about $15.xx at lightning vapes. That’s the cheapest I’ve found. Can get the Luc 4 on Amazon for about $22 shipped.
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Square4Life
Well-Known Member
I believe the document shows you need a 20a battery.So what are we really looking for in a battery? I was used to vaping at sub-ohm resistances in regulated devices mostly. I used different batteries for my Mech mod since the voltage dropoff was more important than capacity for the unregulated.
What continuous amperage should we be looking for?
Here’s an exhaustingly long video comparing VTC5A and VTC6. Great comparison, but I really need to know the continuous amperage needed to run the Portside effectively.
Thanks for any advice!
Here’s the video by the Mooch. Pretty much the king of battery testers.
On another note, if you have a portside, get yourself an external charger. Much better for the life of your batteries. I’ve used both Nitecore D4 and Efest Luc units. Think I prefer the efest. They have a new 4 bay model called the Lush q4 (I think) for about $15.xx at lightening vapes. That’s the cheapest I’ve found. Can get the Luc 4 on Amazon for about $22 shipped.
That may be better for the batteries but I won't be taking off 4 screws and remove the 3 batteries every time I need to charge them. I love my 4bay charger and it may be better but having to take those screws out (and the batteries) would be a major pain considering I need to charge once every 2-3 days lol
From my experience with my IHs, which are a slightly different set up (2S 7.4v nominal, 1.0uF 7 windings ~22-24khz), draw is around 10Amps. I'd imagine the PS to be a about the same (it's got an extra few volts, but only 0.66uF )
So we're talking about ~10A (pulses, NOT continuous), of 5~20 seconds, about 5~10 times over a 2~5 minute period with ample time for battery cooldown between sessions, so I think any cell with a CDR above 10A is perfectly adequate for the job.
Since we don't need the >20A CDR cells, we're free to select the higher capacity cells in the ~3000mAH range with CDR>10A.
From looking around, you're likely to come to the three leading cells in this range, the 30Q, HG2, and VTC6.
The VTC6 has an initial performance advantage due to lower initial internal resistance, but it supposedly degrades a bit faster than the other cells. On average (~2 years) with typical use, I doubt there would be much of a practical difference between these cells, and I'd get whichever is cheapest of the batch.
I recently got a few VT6 cells, since I don't think I'll be degrading the cells too quickly (with multiple devices around, most won't be charged more than once every week or two..). There are as good reasons to get the other abovementioned cells, and on any other day I may have had a different whim and gotten those and been just as happy.
So we're talking about ~10A (pulses, NOT continuous), of 5~20 seconds, about 5~10 times over a 2~5 minute period with ample time for battery cooldown between sessions, so I think any cell with a CDR above 10A is perfectly adequate for the job.
Since we don't need the >20A CDR cells, we're free to select the higher capacity cells in the ~3000mAH range with CDR>10A.
From looking around, you're likely to come to the three leading cells in this range, the 30Q, HG2, and VTC6.
The VTC6 has an initial performance advantage due to lower initial internal resistance, but it supposedly degrades a bit faster than the other cells. On average (~2 years) with typical use, I doubt there would be much of a practical difference between these cells, and I'd get whichever is cheapest of the batch.
I recently got a few VT6 cells, since I don't think I'll be degrading the cells too quickly (with multiple devices around, most won't be charged more than once every week or two..). There are as good reasons to get the other abovementioned cells, and on any other day I may have had a different whim and gotten those and been just as happy.
They will work great.
It's nice to sometimes stretch my batteries out to see how far they can go, but I USUALLY charge them when they're like 30~40% left anyway, so the extra few % capacity hardly ever matter. The VTC5As look like they hold up their voltage nicely, so you'll get strong performance out of them. That extra voltage will keep heating cycles shorter, leaving more available capacity to do more work.
I haven't got a lot of experience with batteries TBH though I can read specs and tests (more or less). I've been using green Samsung 25Rs which perform pretty well with IH and using that as a reference, the VTC5A looks like a kick ass cell along with any of the other top cells mentioned. As long as you're getting a decent battery from a reputable source, you're good to go. Get any of the top recommended batteries discussed around here, and you're great to go. Happy inducting!
(Inductioning, equally not a word, just doesn't sound as good..)
Dustydurban
Well-Known Member
Well, It saves me typing to quote my own question
After a month of extensive fog "testing"
The answer is yes and quite well!
more costly but "safer"
well over 100 "clicks" per charge
I believe IH and VC are the future
I don't comment alot cause I don't type well
I just felt a need to add my
to the knowledge because I have learned so much from FC
Pipes & George (hands down)are IMO the best thing that has happened to Vaporization
I
Summer
Long Island, NY
I was gonna go w/ these or the LG's which is what most members choose. I believe @Pipes said he was using the VTC4s. Somewhere back in this thread I posted a couple of posts concerning battery selection, if interested enough to search. Pipes piped in (
) with his input.I don't mean to offend, but the uneven heating results in the area closest to the screen not getting as dark as the the rest. This is the area that is hard to extract fully. I feel I know my unit quite well
The top of the cap or CE (cap end) will always have darker abv because that's the end drawing the heat directly from the IH. What I will do when dumping out the abv, is check that the herb by the tip of the cap or DE (digger end) has been fully vaped. If it is still light in color & I think it's worth it, I will use the digger to scoop out the top darker abv layer & take a final hit. You could also, with the digger, fold the material from top to bottom. From experience I now inherently know what color abv I expect to see when I remove the cap.
I totally agree that would be a royal pain in the arse. Why do you need to charge every 2 or 3 days? Unless you're vaping a lot of herb on a daily basis, I don't understand why you have to charge that often. I charge when it gets down to 1 blue light. If you read through the thread you will find posts where members state approx. cycles they get from a charge.
jerseydvd
Well-Known Member
I don’t mind opening it to charge and then rotate the batteries once a week. Plus I wanted an external charger anyway for the Tera I have on preorder.I was gonna go w/ these or the LG's which is what most members choose. I believe @Pipes said he was using the VTC4s. Somewhere back in this thread I posted a couple of posts concerning battery selection, if interested enough to search. Pipes piped in (
I totally agree that would be a royal pain in the arse. Why do you need to charge every 2 or 3 days? Unless you're vaping a lot of herb on a daily basis, I don't understand why you have to charge that often. I charge when it gets down to 1 blue light. If you read through the thread you will find posts where members state approx. cycles they get from a charge.
Square4Life
Well-Known Member
I was gonna go w/ these or the LG's which is what most members choose. I believe @Pipes said he was using the VTC4s. Somewhere back in this thread I posted a couple of posts concerning battery selection, if interested enough to search. Pipes piped in (
The top of the cap or CE (cap end) will always have darker abv because that's the end drawing the heat directly from the IH. What I will do when dumping out the abv, is check that the herb by the tip of the cap or DE (digger end) has been fully vaped. If it is still light in color & I think it's worth it, I will use the digger to scoop out the top darker abv layer & take a final hit. You could also, with the digger, fold the material from top to bottom. From experience I now inherently know what color abv I expect to see when I remove the cap.
I totally agree that would be a royal pain in the arse. Why do you need to charge every 2 or 3 days? Unless you're vaping a lot of herb on a daily basis, I don't understand why you have to charge that often. I charge when it gets down to 1 blue light. If you read through the thread you will find posts where members state approx. cycles they get from a charge.
I guess that's what I was meaning though...don't have to stir\fold\etc with the torch. And maybe that's just trade-off with using the induction heater, just curious if my experience is to be expected or if I could tweak my ps so it fully extracts without the need to stir or anything.
Well, there's two people using my PS so it receives double the amount of use. It doesn't go dead in 2-3 days although I don't like to be caught off guard with the batteries start performing really weak due to low charge or stop entirely. So I just make a habit to plug the charger in every 2-3 days
Summer
Long Island, NY
I don't know if it can be tweaked, but I'm gonna guess not, as the CE (cap end) is the part directly sitting on the heater & the sides of the cap are only receiving the heat that conducts up them which, judging by our experiences, isn't sufficient enough to produce the same abv that the tip does. Like I said, when you play around with how long you go past the click, how many cycles & hits you take out of a bowl, the grind you use & how you pack, you'll just get a feel as to whether or not you need to stir or remove the bottom layer of abv.
Square4Life
Well-Known Member
I appreciate your responses. I'm by no means new to the PS (I think I actually got mine a bit before you got yours...nothing meant by that, just giving you a timeframe as to how familiar I am with it).
I have definitely tried all of the different variables (even sanded down the dowel some) although I still notoriously find the material closest to the screen yellowish and not entirely extracted. Smaller loads definitely helps, but I believe this is due to the smaller load sitting lower in the chamber when inverted into the PS.
Regardless, I do not mean to sound negative (if that is the attitude being perceived), but it sounds like what I am experiencing is very similar to your experience. It isn't a "big deal" by any means. Hell, I've been using it every day since August lol
It's just that I have been doing exactly what you are getting at (trying different grinds, how long past the click, pack, etc) and it wasn't changing. So I felt it was just time for me to ask lol.
Thank you for your help and responses.
pxl_jockey
Just a dude
@Square4Life I don't even have a Pipes IH yet, but I'm in the queue! 
In fact, I've only used a VC for 2-3 months and am still discovering all the ways a VC allows me to dial in the experience I want atm.
So you will want to use the whole shaker of salt when reading the dumb thoughts (DT) that occurred to me upon reading your findings.
DT 1) When using less than a full tip, after say hit #2 before reinserting the VC into the IH, one were to lightly exhale into the mouthpiece (MP!
) and in the words of Bob, "Stir It Up"?
DT 2) Instead of the CE being flush against the tip, one were to very slightly (1mm or so) push on the DE thus creating a 1mm or so gap? My ground herb tends to stay back in the chamber so theoretically, the whole load would heated by radiant heat? Probably longer to the click as well, so no bueno.
DT 3) From my reading here and VC thread, seems most users go quite a few seconds beyond the click on that first click for a more satisfying first hit. I get that and will most likely follow that SOP when I join your ranks. What if one follows a strict click protocol, that is by not intentionally overheating the material at the CE on the initial heat cycle (HC?) of the IH, would that in some way preserve the herb or perhaps slow the degradation of material at the CE? Let's call this CE material CEM! Seems you've explored this option.
Sorry for the explosion of acronyms, but having worked with the military branch for years once @Summer gets me going with that shit? I can go ALL DAY! Now back to my DTs, many (hell, most!) of you smarter on the tech side or more experienced with the VC side than I am, so go easy on me. I've been taken rather ill and mainly lurking but my addled brain wouldn't let this go. @Square4Life You don't seem negative to me, just reporting your findings & seeking the best strategy moving forward is cool by me. Doing your job.
The issue hasn't kept you from enjoying your PS, obviously! Besides man, I've read and enjoyed your thoughts elsewhere and you're no Negative Nelly. 
You're one of the cool kids!
In fact, I've only used a VC for 2-3 months and am still discovering all the ways a VC allows me to dial in the experience I want atm. So you will want to use the whole shaker of salt when reading the dumb thoughts (DT) that occurred to me upon reading your findings.
DT 1) When using less than a full tip, after say hit #2 before reinserting the VC into the IH, one were to lightly exhale into the mouthpiece (MP!
) and in the words of Bob, "Stir It Up"?DT 2) Instead of the CE being flush against the tip, one were to very slightly (1mm or so) push on the DE thus creating a 1mm or so gap? My ground herb tends to stay back in the chamber so theoretically, the whole load would heated by radiant heat? Probably longer to the click as well, so no bueno.
DT 3) From my reading here and VC thread, seems most users go quite a few seconds beyond the click on that first click for a more satisfying first hit. I get that and will most likely follow that SOP when I join your ranks. What if one follows a strict click protocol, that is by not intentionally overheating the material at the CE on the initial heat cycle (HC?) of the IH, would that in some way preserve the herb or perhaps slow the degradation of material at the CE? Let's call this CE material CEM!
Seems you've explored this option.Sorry for the explosion of acronyms, but having worked with the military branch for years once @Summer gets me going with that shit? I can go ALL DAY! Now back to my DTs, many (hell, most!) of you smarter on the tech side or more experienced with the VC side than I am, so go easy on me. I've been taken rather ill and mainly lurking but my addled brain wouldn't let this go. @Square4Life You don't seem negative to me, just reporting your findings & seeking the best strategy moving forward is cool by me. Doing your job.
The issue hasn't kept you from enjoying your PS, obviously! Besides man, I've read and enjoyed your thoughts elsewhere and you're no Negative Nelly. You're one of the cool kids!Square4Life
Well-Known Member
#1 - I haven't thought about trying this on the VC although I definitely will. My first vaporizer was a FW4 and I tried this with the capsule loaded in the FW4 and naturally, abv dust got on the inside of the unit. Then, with the GH, blowing into it was a big no no. Point being, I guess I just kind of forgot about this method. Sure won't hurt the VC! Thanks!@Square4Life I don't even have a Pipes IH yet, but I'm in the queue!
So you will want to use the whole shaker of salt when reading the dumb thoughts (DT) that occurred to me upon reading your findings.
DT 1) When using less than a full tip, after say hit #2 before reinserting the VC into the IH, one were to lightly exhale into the mouthpiece (MP!
DT 2) Instead of the CE being flush against the tip, one were to very slightly (1mm or so) push on the DE thus creating a 1mm or so gap? My ground herb tends to stay back in the chamber so theoretically, the whole load would heated by radiant heat? Probably longer to the click as well, so no bueno.
DT 3) From my reading here and VC thread, seems most users go quite a few seconds beyond the click on that first click for a more satisfying first hit. I get that and will most likely follow that SOP when I join your ranks. What if one follows a strict click protocol, that is by not intentionally overheating the material at the CE on the initial heat cycle (HC?) of the IH, would that in some way preserve the herb or perhaps slow the degradation of material at the CE? Let's call this CE material CEM!
Sorry for the explosion of acronyms, but having worked with the military branch for years once @Summer gets me going with that shit? I can go ALL DAY! Now back to my DTs, many (hell, most!) of you smarter on the tech side or more experienced with the VC side than I am, so go easy on me. I've been taken rather ill and mainly lurking but my addled brain wouldn't let this go. @Square4Life You don't seem negative to me, just reporting your findings & seeking the best strategy moving forward is cool by me. Doing your job.
#2 - If I am understanding you correctly, I do not think that would be possible with my PS as the heater is activated via a push switch and therefore the cap would be pushed back flush when I attempt to activate the heater. Unless you mean leave a 1mm gap between the material and the cap (push the material slightly until the chamber making it only by 80% full)...which is about what I'm doing now. I suck up without pushing any material in or tamping and then let any excess fall back into grinder and THEN I tamp slightly making it about 80% 'full'.
#3 - Honestly, at least for me, the first click sucks. I usually do my counting method (one, one-thousand, two, one-thousand, three, one-thousand, 4) for all hits whether it is the first or not although I believe one of my VC caps changed? and going to 4 can be tricky with it. They all used to be fine going to 4, but one of them will scorch/combust if I take it to 4 with it. Since it's hard to keep up with which cap is which, I pull as I'm saying 'thousand' in 'three, one-thousand' and that keeps the one from combusting. Perhaps if you took the first click even further, it would produce better vapor although the torch doesn't produce great results either on the first heat up so I just have become accustomed to knowing that first one will have flavor, but very little vapor. Hits #2 and #3 should be chuggin along though lol.
And thanks for the kind words regarding me being a negative Nelly lol. Sometimes I re-read my posts and feel like I may come across as being rash or hard to get along with. Translating your thoughts into words while trying to ensure you are conveying your message can sometimes be a task lol
pxl_jockey
Just a dude
@Square4Life Bro, I think we all struggle with that. I sure do, and as kick-ass as it is that we're able to conduct these important experiments together electronically, it has its challenges. I'm grateful we have it, or I really wouldn't know anything. I try my best to be clear but sometimes even smileys can't help! I know I fail the clarity task quite often, sometimes with myself.
1) Cool!
2) See, rookie mistake!
3) Yeah, I wasn't sure if sacrificing the first hit would make a difference. And I didn't know that folks "overcount" on all cycles. I don't mind the flavour hit but I feel foolish when I realise I've held it in out of habit. I'm so excited, everyone says it changes everything, a new dimension in VC happiness!
I really don't mind the wait, I actually hope mine is in the January batch. That would mean no post-xmas letdown for me! At 50, I don't get excited about presents really but Skelator is something else. Christmas comes once a year, a package from Pipes comes but once! Or at least until he makes the next thing that blows my mind. 2017 was about not combusting. 2018 will be the year of my induction initiation!
1) Cool!
2) See, rookie mistake!
3) Yeah, I wasn't sure if sacrificing the first hit would make a difference. And I didn't know that folks "overcount" on all cycles. I don't mind the flavour hit but I feel foolish when I realise I've held it in out of habit. I'm so excited, everyone says it changes everything, a new dimension in VC happiness!
I really don't mind the wait, I actually hope mine is in the January batch. That would mean no post-xmas letdown for me! At 50, I don't get excited about presents really but Skelator is something else. Christmas comes once a year, a package from Pipes comes but once! Or at least until he makes the next thing that blows my mind. 2017 was about not combusting. 2018 will be the year of my induction initiation!
Summer
Long Island, NY
@Square4Life, I, too, usually heat until 3 one-thousand or 4 on the 1st cycle, but sometimes I only heat the 1st cycle until the click, take it out, don't draw, wait until the cool down click & then reheat to 3 one-thousand & take my 1st hit so I do get good vapor. I really should try heating the 2nd cycle only to the 1st click & see what happens. I only take the next 2 cycles until 3 one-thousand cause if I go further I have combusted. I'd also like to try phattpiggies method of heating to the click & then drawing, then continually reinserting w/o waiting until the cool down click. I'm just not sure my lungs can handle that much vapor in that short a time without coughing my lungs out & I'm concerned my re-inserting timing would be off & then I'd combust. But it's on my to-do list to try at least once.
I just tried #3 & unfortunately the cap does get pressed up. Too bad, it was a good thought.
I just tried #3 & unfortunately the cap does get pressed up. Too bad, it was a good thought.
alterego420
Well-Known Member
Well, I'm on the list for a Portside in the new year. With Xmas being nothing much at my time of life, it's nice to have something to look forward to with childish excitement