TinyMight Vaporizer

JohnJacobs

Well-Known Member
Nice write up! Yeah, the battery door and USB-C could be possible, but I don't think there is any way to move the button, it has to be near the electronic board, there's no room to put it up on top because that's where the battery latch is and you have air path on the other side... Would take a full redesign and likely make device larger to accommodate!

I figured there had to be a reason for the placement, it’s not bad it would just feel more natural if it were up top.

@JohnJacobs – Glad to see you enjoy your TM; I'm pretty sure the „-” on the battery cap is meant as a reminder how to install the battery, although I agree a fat red „+“ inside the compartment as seen in other devices would make it more clear. USB-C would be neat, but many of us will charge externally so it might not seem that urgent to the maker. I'm sure we'll see it in future upgrades.

The button placement seems odd indeed and can even be uncomfortable for some. I recommend using your ring- or middle finger instead of the pinky, makes holding the button quite a bit nicer.

I also charge externally, but was at my friends house last weekend and forgot my spares and it just would have been nice if I could have used USB-C in that situation. Like you said though, I’m sure we’ll see it in a future update.

I’ll have to try pressing with my ring finger!

I forgot to add that if using primarily through the WPA the button placement is actually ideal as it moves it to the top. Considering that, it kinda breaks even depending on your usage.
 

Zipford

Well-Known Member
I figured there had to be a reason for the placement, it’s not bad it would just feel more natural if it were up top.



I also charge externally, but was at my friends house last weekend and forgot my spares and it just would have been nice if I could have used USB-C in that situation. Like you said though, I’m sure we’ll see it in a future update.

I’ll have to try pressing with my ring finger!
I use my ring finger and have gotten used to it, though the button was a little awkward at first.

Another option is to hold the device so the button is against your palm, and then squeezing the device towards your palm to press the button. This is quite comfortable, but it can feel little unsure because it isn't the normal way most people press buttons. But once you do it a few times and are used to it, it's also a nice way to use it.

Enjoy!
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAAA! (TM/FW7/OAB/CC-H&A)
I forgot to add that if using primarily through the WPA the button placement is actually ideal as it moves it to the top. Considering that, it kinda breaks even depending on your usage.

Oh yeah I am often using it upside down on hooks and stuff, but I am used to buttons on the bottom, since that is how Milaana and mistvape touch were, I had wanted it higher up, but it was quickly clear that was impossible... So I was not surprised or bothered by TM having it at the bottom, I also never use my pinky, I might even use middle finger or even pointer along with thumb, there are just so many different ways to hold it comfortably, especially depending on the stems (have not used stock stem with cooling unit since I originally got it)
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
It's only 10% of their electricity, and Sweden can sell them more or they do have the capability to up their own output.

Buzzzz! Another loser for the Russians. Just makes them look bad. They are pretty much making it so after this is all over nobody is gonna want to be their customer for anything. Brilliant...

On the button, because I always or nearly always use my TM on glass and therefore upside down the button placement is very good for me.
 

andrew`124c41+

Well-Known Member
Question regarding the temperature recalibration.

If you remove the battery does it reset to the factory default... That is for you have to recalibrate everytime you remove the battery?
 
andrew`124c41+,

Relaxed

This Space For Rent
I've had a few MV1 and the TM is a lot better. More versatile with load size and temp range. As long as your batteries are good, performance is very consistent. It doesn't need 15s draws to get a good hit. It's smaller. Easier to load/unload even right after your last draw. Swappable general 18650 batterie...etc

I went from Ghost and Firefly to Tinymight and have never looked back. . .Everything that momor said. Also, easier to clean, smaller, lighter, etc.
No contest.

Thank you
 

andrew`124c41+

Well-Known Member
I have noticed some concerns regarding decreased effectiveness over time as well as other questions regarding troubleshooting.
So, I will offer some of my own observations.

I was thinking about how the manufacturer came up with the temperature correlation chart and while I do not know with certainty that this is the method he used, what I am about to describe is a foolproof way of determining if the unit is putting out heat.

I removed the ring that holds the silicone O ring, then the metal tube followed by the aluminum grooved ring that holds the screen.

This exposes the resistive heating element.

I have an inexpensive infrared, laser thermometer which I purchased from Home Despot. Unfortunately, the small one I am using is no longer available but you can find relatively accurate ones available either there or on Amazon. I am not talking about noncontact units for measuring human temps but the industrial ones used for scientific purposes....and say for HVAC.

All one has to do is set the thermometer for continuous measurement, turn the unit on, hold it upright while pointing the thermometer's sensor to the heating coil, and trigger the thermometer and then the TM. You will note the increasing temperature. The TM will give you the haptic signal and you will note that the temperature will start to settle.

You can repeat this at several dial numbers if you like. This method can also be used to see what happens after temperature recalibration,

The reason for removing the screen is that one has to remember that the unit is purely convective. The coil is heating the air as it is drawn over the coil. It would be very difficult to use the IR thermometer to measure the air flow.

I am simply demonstrating a method of determining with certainty that the unit is working.

For instance, when the dial of my unit is set....I think it was 6, I am getting about 330 degrees F. (I recalibrated my unit to Red.)


Of course, in terms of operation, the air is going to cool after passing the coil but as everyone knowns, whether you use the stem that comes with the unit, a WPA, or the 3D stem.....all of them get pretty hot which in and of itself tells us that the heating coil is working.

So, it might be a good idea to do this testing when you first get the unit and write the figures down.


I cannot think of any reasons offhand that the unit would decrease in effectiveness over time.....and why tightening the bolt would change anything. The coil is being operated through the circuitry on the board which is either going to work or not work. When you put your battery in you get a clear indication that contact has been made.


I picked up one of the curved metal screens from Amazon that has been used as a modification. My unit had been damaged because I was using the TM dosing capsule with the 3D adapter. To do so, one must use the rimmed basket screen. The capsule protrudes and I must have pushed it too hard damaging the screen. I then took the unit apart and could not get the coil back.

I would NOT recommend using the dosing capsule with the 3D stem.....If you do, please be very, very careful. (I like the TM dosing capsule and I think it works well except with the 3D stem.


As for the screen mod. If you use the screen and do not put the aluminum ring (without or without the mesh screen) the steel sleeve will be loose. I don't think this actually would affect function. It is just perhaps not esthetically desirable :-)

If one just uses the curved screen I notice it has actual holes. I don't think medium ground herb will pass through but I am not sure.

If one removes the mesh screen and uses it over the steel screen.....it is a perfect arrangement for use with the TM dosing capsule.

I actually have been putting the curved screen in first followed by the aluminum ring WITH the screen for both loose herb and the dosing capsule. The setup does work but I had to increase the temperature.

I am curious how many others use the curved steel screen. I am not sure it makes a lot of difference other than it serves well in protecting the heating element.
 

cooltohate

New Member
Rimmed basket screen is back on stock however. Perfect basket for me that doesn't look wear and tear after 10 uses.

Does anyone know if these can be found anywhere else? All of the ones I have found and purchased elsewhere have a slightly larger ring and they pop out when removing the stem.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAAA! (TM/FW7/OAB/CC-H&A)
Does anyone know if these can be found anywhere else? All of the ones I have found and purchased elsewhere have a slightly larger ring and they pop out when removing the stem.

No, they cannot be found anywhere else, these ones are custom made, by the place that is making the extra long stems, last I had heard, so this is the only place you can purchase them. Yes all other rimmed basket screens are too large for use in the TM (unless you're using them for that mod)
 

JohnJacobs

Well-Known Member
In case anyone is wondering I’m using the 3 in 1 WPA with my 18mm rig and it fits perfectly without any effort. It’s snug with zero air leak. Absolutely love the glass screen btw
 

Siebter

Less soul, more mind
I was thinking about how the manufacturer came up with the temperature correlation chart and while I do not know with certainty that this is the method he used, what I am about to describe is a foolproof way of determining if the unit is putting out heat.

Just a little heads up: actually the temp chart wasn't created by the manufacturer, but by one FCer who simply extrapolated the said temperature range over ten values. We soon found out that while every device has consistent temperatures in itself, they do vary a bit from device to device, so that chart is anything but precise.

I cannot think of any reasons offhand that the unit would decrease in effectiveness over time.....and why tightening the bolt would change anything. The coil is being operated through the circuitry on the board which is either going to work or not work. When you put your battery in you get a clear indication that contact has been made.

True, but it's not only about tightening the screw, but to loosen it first, then wiggle the plates a bit („ [...] imagine you are trying to scratch the wood underneath them.” says the FAQ). I'm not sure what that does, but anyway: it is recommended to tighten the screw afterwards in order to make everything work fine. That's not the actual troubleshot though, the plate moving is.
 

andrew`124c41+

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure what that does, but anyway: it is recommended to tighten the screw afterwards in order to make everything work fine. That's not the actual troubleshot though, the plate moving is.
It is puzzling. Not sure what this actually fixes. I should think that that the 2 main issues could be air path leak and poor battery contact...

I did find that my temp measurements for my own device could be reproduced.

In the end, from day to day my temp setting depinds upon how dry my herb is. Too moist it takes more time.

But, it's all good!
 
andrew`124c41+,
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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAAA! (TM/FW7/OAB/CC-H&A)
I don't think about actual number of value temp settings with my TM, it's just spots on the dial, I know what's what for what I need, so I think of that, I don't think of the actual temp settings like I might in a digital vape, but I do prefer this analog style myself...
 

Tweakz

Well-Known Member
Versions, versions. Maybe it’s time to order me a second TM as a backup to my ‘first gen’ and 27 month old perfectly fine and continually friggin awesome TM. Maybe. I’d love a different battery door design but I’ve lived with version 1.0 this long and have gotten used to it. Other than that I wouldn’t change a thing - it’s so simple to use and enjoy. TGIF to all. :peace:
Do it . New version just amazing stable working
 

ezpz

Well-Known Member
It is puzzling. Not sure what this actually fixes. I should think that that the 2 main issues could be air path leak and poor battery contact...
That's my guess as well. The contact point where people here have put a foil "shim" under, and to ensure no air leaks at the skinny o-ring under the top plate. Two very important aspects to a properly functioning TM, and both having to do with compressing the top plate to the wood.
Just my highdea.
 

andrew`124c41+

Well-Known Member
Look up OXIDATION, a weakness of the TM design….
I remember that discussion and I did look it up... But having been building, working with, and fixing electronics since I was a kid, I don't know how oxidation is applicable to the TM.

Are you suggesting that the contact points for the battery oxidize?

I have not noticed obvious oxidation in my own unit.

You see corrosion on car battery terminals but that is due to the release of hydrogen gas from the sulfuric acid.

I am sure it is possible... I have seen some weird stuff working on various projects... I just have not seen it on my own unit as of yet.

Overall, it is an interesting piece of engineerin! As I have said previously, a 10 year warranty on anything is rare these days.
 
andrew`124c41+,
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