TinyMight / TM 2

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
In session mode the second red led turn on when the temp is reached.
If you press the button in session mode actives the boost ( 1.5 step up) :D

I don't know what you really mean by the second LED, but that boosts makes me want to try setting it at a very low session boosting hits? But how to clear hmm
 
Shit Snacks,

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
yes... there are 2 leds :myday: :rofl:

NICE find. I don’t use session mode often, but just tested. LED on bottom goes solid, then a few seconds later, the LED that lights the stem, goes ON. As far as boost, I assume you only have to PRESS the button once, not hold it?
I’ll shove a bead Temp probe in there to test that at some point. Thanks 🙏🏻
 

SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
The LED (shines around the temperature dial) is what I watch in session mode before releasing the button while activating stealth mode.
 
SquirrelMaster,

bgrpph

Well-Known Member
Did cleaning fix your unit up? The haptic motor had an issue for @LabPong (iirc) which he fixed himself by pulling the unit apart so that may be your next step.
No cleaning the battery threads with electronic/contact cleaner did not do anything. I'm still having lots of times i turn unit to on-demand & get no virbation at all- turn it off & on again- still no vibration- then next time it will vibrate normally- SoFrustrating-

When it has no vibration, i've tried changing out the battery (have 4, using nitecore D4 charger) & when inserting new battery & tightening cap it does vibrate 4 times as usual. However then when using it on-deamnd mode, sometimes it vibrates/sometimes not.

Last night i swapped out battery & when tightening battery cap with new charged battery, it did not vibrate at all as it usually does when inserting battery (1st time its done this)- Tried using it-put it in on-demand mode & it didn't vibrate but heater worked fine. Tried a 2nd charged battery & again no vibration when tightening the cap or when using it, but the heater did work. Then few turn ons later , the virbration worked normally.

I tried pulling up the + battery terminal at bottom of battery area with curved thingy but didn't seem to move and did not do anything. I'm somewhat mechanically ok at stuff, but i'm hesitant to take bottom screw out & take unit apart -as i'm afraid i won't get it back together correctly. For now i'm just using it - if it vibrates great, if not i just guess when to pull & what charge of battery is.

I'm just reading now about the 2 LED lights- (i never use session mode so didn't know it existed). I recall that previously when i hit button 3 times to put in on-demand mode, sometimes it seemed like the LED light looked different or was a bit dimmer (seemed to glow on bottom but didn't come thru the top tube)- Now that i think about it, when the LED looked a bit dimmer/different & was only shining from botton not thru top tube, that is when the unit did not virbate.
When turing it to on-demand mode, if the LED light looked normal, the unit would vibrate normally. When turing it on & light looked a bit dimmer & not coming thru the top is when the vibration did not work. (i noticed the led light looked different at times but thought it was me as didn't know it had 2 diff led settings).
 
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Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
No cleaning the battery threads with electronic/contact cleaner did not do anything. I'm still having lots of times i turn unit to on-demand & get no virbation at all- turn it off & on again- still no vibration- then next time it will vibrate normally- SoFrustrating-

When it has no vibration, i've tried changing out the battery (have 4, using nitecore D4 charger) & when inserting new battery & tightening cap it does vibrate 4 times as usual. However then when using it on-deamnd mode, sometimes it vibrates/sometimes not.

Last night i swapped out battery & when tightening battery cap with new charged battery, it did not vibrate at all as it usually does when inserting battery (1st time its done this)- Tried using it-put it in on-demand mode & it didn't vibrate but heater worked fine. Tried a 2nd charged battery & again no vibration when tightening the cap or when using it, but the heater did work. Then few turn ons later , the virbration worked normally.

I tried pulling up the + battery terminal at bottom of battery area with curved thingy but didn't seem to move and did not do anything. I'm somewhat mechanically ok at stuff, but i'm hesitant to take bottom screw out & take unit apart -as i'm afraid i won't get it back together correctly. For now i'm just using it - if it vibrates great, if not i just guess when to pull & what charge of battery is.
Another haptic motor issue. See mine above. The thing inside the motor or housing tends to get stuck (for the few of us). Mine corrected itself. If you’re hesitant in taking it apart then I would not. It may correct itself. Mine did though I did take mine apart which didn’t initially correct the problem but it corrected itself soon after.

The black housing is comprised of a couple of pieces with a separation down the length of it. You can see the gong thingy underneath it and through the seam separating the housing pieces. While I didn’t adjust the pins on the housing I gently nudged the gong and I noticed the seam in the housing getting a tad bigger. And then I left it alone for fear of doing anything worse. I don’t recall if I used a toothpick or tweezers to probe the motor but just a nudge perhaps did the trick. Eventually. Taking it apart and re-assembling it weren’t bad at all. If you needn’t or hesitant to do so, don’t - and send an email to The Maker. :peace:
 

angular ocelot

Well-Known Member
i fixed my lack of buzz by taking off the bottom, lifting the contact pins a teensy bit, cleaning the plates that the pins contact on. then reassembled making sure the haptic motor was sat correctly in its housing.

the motor is only held in a silicone housing and is not soldered to the board. it is a great idea but it does mean that the motor can have bad contacts or could get dislodged slightly, by a bump or somesuch, and not contact properly.

after i fixed mine the buzz feels very strong and hasn't missed a beat since.
 

dzoinp

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
special-228x228.jpeg

My extra long stem arrived today:brow:

When I made the purchase I immediately thought I wouldn't like the curved mouthpiece :hmm:...
So I thought ... my name is dzoinp ... Mod dzoinp :mental:

Since January I want this:
Straight dimpled stem
IMG-20200922-212608.jpg

I've done 4 or 5 sessions. I'm really enjoying it. With me it will only be used on the sofa
I wish it was 2cm shorter
:science:
After some tests i must say that, with the dimpled stem, there is less flavor compared with the short stem.
The air flow is also more restrictive.
👎

I mentioned this before but nobody give some feedback...😭😭
Try to unscrew the cooling unit's two halves 2/3mm, so that the washers and nuts stay slightly loose. This will significantly increase the air flow. Shake the stem it will look like a rattlesnake. 🐍
When you stop listening the snake it is a sign that it is time to clean the stem! Sounds perfect to me IDK:shrug::D
 

fidget

Well-Known Member
Sent my TinyMight back for repair 2 weeks ago.
Got an email today saying it was being repaired and returned to me then an hour later got the shipping email from DPD.
It arrives Monday.
I bought a second unit a couple of weeks ago when vapefiend got heir limited stock.
Happy to have a backup and it will be interesting to try them side by side and see if there's any difference.
 

eliaz

New Member
Sent my TinyMight back for repair 2 weeks ago.
Got an email today saying it was being repaired and returned to me then an hour later got the shipping email from DPD.
It arrives Monday.
I bought a second unit a couple of weeks ago when vapefiend got heir limited stock.
Happy to have a backup and it will be interesting to try them side by side and see if there's any difference.


When did you first contact him? How did you contact him? Through a repair request on the site? Or email?

I'm waiting for 2 months and no reply still
 

fidget

Well-Known Member
When did you first contact him? How did you contact him? Through a repair request on the site? Or email?

I'm waiting for 2 months and no reply still
I opened a return on the site then sent an email every week (maybe 4?) til they got back to me with the return label.
I offered to pay for the repair and shipping because I foolishly (and being far too high) took mine apart after pushing the screen through and couldn't put it back together after somehow knocking the heater out.
There's been no mention of any charge they just said they'd repair and return it.
 

bgrpph

Well-Known Member
Thanks to folks who responded with how they fixed their lack of haptic vibration. This FC site is great!! I opened a return request on TM site yesterday- asked for a return ship label & indicated my issue with my haptic vibation working sporatically in on-demand mode & also working sporatically when inserting a new battery (sometimes it would not vibrate when screwing down cap with a charged battery). We'll see how long it takes for response & ship label.
I did order a 2nd TM a month ago- still pending.
 

eliaz

New Member
I opened a return on the site then sent an email every week (maybe 4?) til they got back to me with the return label.
I offered to pay for the repair and shipping because I foolishly (and being far too high) took mine apart after pushing the screen through and couldn't put it back together after somehow knocking the heater out.
There's been no mention of any charge they just said they'd repair and return it.

Gotcha thank you

I am unable to open a return on the site since I did not have an account when I ordered. I am just emailing him every week. Hope he reads it
 

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
I like to start around temp 3-4 for at least a couple hits then gradually work up to and end on 7. With some of my really terpy trichrome covered strains I can hang around 4-5 for more of my hits but other strains require me to up the temperature faster to keep the vapour flowing. If I need medicate quickly I'll jump straight to 7 starting a fresh bowl but I prefer to work my way up and leave 7 for a finishing hit or two. Anything above 7 leaves "the ring" in the face of the flower so I stir nearly every hit if I'm going that route which is only when I'm putting it through water and it's really easy to lift the device off after each hit.

With less balls I'm sure your stem is even more free flowing than mine! My packed stem feels so open with better cooling than any of my other stems, these balls are a game changer imo. I've yet to put them in a device and not notice an improvement whether they're acting as a heat source (SSV/Elev8r) or heat sink (Tinymight/RBT/Mighty so far).




That's the long stem right? I think my eyes are being deceived not seeing the cooling units stuffed in there, it looks longer.

I'm still running almost exclusively at 8 start to finish and loving it, until recently, don't jump to conclusions people! The stem is almost TOO wide open lol! I've been running a lot of shake lately and even with that fine "grind" I need to give it a little pack or it's too airy. But I also think that may be to my unit loosing power lately. Again, I'll get to it.....

My TM isn’t charging. Red light goes on then goes off a couple mins later. When I go to triple click, it clicks rapidly fast, flashes green and never turns on.
HAS ANYONE SEEN THIS? What do I do here?

Can't say I've seen the green LED, but I never look at it. Mine reacts similarly every once in a while. Removing the battery always solves it.

Um... and this is a good thing? Huh.

Different strokes? Language differences?

I wonder if these “issues” that come up and then go away after a short time is sign of PCB in trouble, I had similar things occur with my Haze Square and had at least one PCB that they said was bad. I remember it Was not charging and then after being disconnected overnight was fine in the morning ? Then my charging indicator Light was blinking when it should not have been.......something to chew on......

EDIT: all the electronic craziness happened after heavy use which the square could not handle. I’m not an electrician but I noticed my unit was hotter than normal after malfunctioning, to the point of puttting it down and away from anything it may damage should it explode 😂

I'm guessing just connection issues.... See below.

I've wondered if any of the performance issues folks are reporting could relate to charging the cell in the Tinymight. I have a four bay Opus charger and while I have charged my TC and DNA Splinter cells directly in the mod my habit with the Tinymight has always been to swap out the cell.

Obviously this is idle speculation and I know nothing of electronics. It's just that my Tinymight has been rock solid and I'm wondering if how it gets used plays a roll.

I've got an early unit, I believe I was non EU order #50, or North American #50, not sure we ever got a clear answer on the numbering system, but regardless, I've had mine for some time and have been using it a lot and very hard when I do. Back to backs at 8 thru water are almost daily, or rather nightly. It keeps up fine and as I work to declutter and simplify my life I wonder what other vapes I would want/need beyond my TM if I actually thinned the herd.

Over the last 10 days or so, my bottom plate has been getting hot pretty fast and extraction has been crappy at best. This morning when I opened it up, it was really dusty/dirty and I immediately was convinced my suspicion was correct, poor electrical flow. The lip around the bottom that we all see lets in light also lets in dust, and it falls on a contact surface, and eventually it stops making good contact.

After thoroughly cleaning as in this post:

These are the parts I clean as well as the threads.

The 4 metal contacts on the outside edge of the pcb.

View attachment 2771

The ledge in the bottom plate where they seat and make contact.

View attachment 2773

The area under the top plate where that earth strap thing makes contact.

View attachment 2774

Both ends of the main Torx screw where it touches the top and bottom plates.

These points all look like negative contacts to me. Probably worth a clean for anybody having problems.

She's back to normal and I'm blowing clouds like a dragon again! And if someone is keeping track of posts for a "Best Of", that one is a given!

Some make look at this as a design flaw, and that could be partially true. But I see it as a real advantage. These units deal with very high heat, current flow and small dusty particles. Having them field serviceable is not bad IMHO. The fact that it's taken this long to need it is very impressive.

Looking thru the unit and cleaning everything that could be cleaned without removing the heater screw, I found very little that had attracted much dust/dirt, including the heater itself.

Someone asked earlier about Deoxit, and yes, it's safe on all metals, and I do use it. But without any actual testing, I find it to be much like RainX, which also like and use. But I find both to be habit forming or needing. Once you use it on a unit, it seems you need to keep using it to get good contact. The same company also makes a lithium jelly that has aluminum in it for improved aluminum conductivity, but I don't like jelly's, they attract and HOLD dust and dirt in these open situations. When I use Deoxit, I use the pen and wipe the surface clean with paper towel or q-tip before reassembly.

The only wear my unit is showing is the temp dial or potentiometer dial itself. This will be the third time I've re-glued the dial to the unit and there's enough of it missing that I think next time I'll send it in like was offered.

Other than that, it's almost as small as my Nomad, it heats and extracts like a champ, and IMO it requires very little day to day or long term maintenance. It's a hell of a little thing isn't it!
 

Siebter

Less soul, more mind
Different strokes? Language differences?

Strokes as in draws? Remember the TM has a temp control, the draw does not dictate the heat in the chamber like it would in a Milaana. Combusting at 7 indicates a problem for me.

Over the last 10 days or so, my bottom plate has been getting hot pretty fast and extraction has been crappy at best. This morning when I opened it up, it was really dusty/dirty and I immediately was convinced my suspicion was correct, poor electrical flow. The lip around the bottom that we all see lets in light also lets in dust, and it falls on a contact surface, and eventually it stops making good contact.

That is interesting – how do you store your TM? Because when I saw my TM for the first time and saw the wide open stem, one of the first things I decided was to keep it in its hemp bag whenever its not in usage. Even when it's already loaded, I prefer to put it on its side instead of its bottom. Also when I swap batteries, I (briefly) blow into the battery chamber to remove dust (I rather avoid contact helpers at this point). I'm not even sure if that does anything, but there's a lot of room in the TM, so I intuitively tried to keep it reasonably dust free. Hot bottom plate will be remembered, thank you for pointing it out!
 

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
Great post @MonkeyTime I agree, having the device reasonably user serviceable is a big positive that thankfully I haven't needed yet, but no doubt I will at some point.

Can you explain the advantage of a product like deoxit compared to iso? I've been using iso on electronics for decades!

I use iso also, because it's always at hand and I carry individual iso pads on the go for out and about cleaning, they're so darn handy.

The advantages are, and this is their claims, not really mine, but I do think it works :doh: are that it cleans, creates better contact and helps maintain those contacts. It's lighter fluid and who knows what oils or such. But it basically cleans just like iso with just a slight oily residue after. I bought it to try and bring a dying GH back to life and now use it once and a while because I have it.

Strokes as in draws? Remember the TM has a temp control, the draw does not dictate the heat in the chamber like it would in a Milaana. Combusting at 7 indicates a problem for me.



That is interesting – how do you store your TM? Because when I saw my TM for the first time and saw the wide open stem, one of the first things I decided was to keep it in its hemp bag whenever its not in usage. Even when it's already loaded, I prefer to put it on its side instead of its bottom. Also when I swap batteries, I (briefly) blow into the battery chamber to remove dust (I rather avoid contact helpers at this point). I'm not even sure if that does anything, but there's a lot of room in the TM, so I intuitively tried to keep it reasonably dust free. Hot bottom plate will be remembered, thank you for pointing it out!

Sorry, sarcasm doesn't always translate well through typed word, I was really agreeing with you and saying, maybe he wants to combust? Or if possibly there was a language barrier and we were interpreting his comment incorrectly. I read it the same way you did.

If people are using a properly functioning TM, with a full or close battery, and are packing or using finer grinds and pull hard thru a water piece, regulated or not, I think you're flirting with combustion. Regulation tries to maintain the heater temp, but if you're north of 420F with a tight pack and pulling hard, the rate of temp change is going to be pretty fast and that can induce combustion at lower temps. Its just not what temp you're at, its how fast the load gets there as well.
 
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