TinyMight / TM 2

tattooed

Well-Known Member
Mine was waiting for me when I got home today. I immediately gave things a clean and took it for a test drive.

I started with the titanium stem with just a screen. I did not love this experience at all, maybe if the cooling unit fits in there I'd like it better. The stock glass stem with the cooling unit on the other hand was quite good. I could see wanting a cooler experience but the size of this thing with the stock glass stem is so tiny compared to the Mighty that I'm used to on the go that I really don't think I'd like to lug anything else around aside from whatever stem I end up finding the best for me.

I still need to learn how best to use it but the second bowl got me plenty of vapor and 2 hits with a squeaker of the third hit. Everything was vaped very evenly. Taste was quite good too. Effects are quite good, probably almost what a mighty would do and I wasn't packing but maybe half of a mighty bowl if that.

I always thought it looked kind of weird how people hold the TM when hitting the button for a hit but in practice it feels very natural.

Anyways, thanks everyone for all the great info, this was definitely a great portable upgrade for me and I'm pretty stoked to get all the accessories I've ordered in to try. I'm pretty certain already I'll be passing my Mighty off to a friend in need.
 
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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
if it is green you expect to get 4/5ths the life.

If that is all you are using to guide you, yes that is my point, green is like 75% and above, with a digital charger I could see a new one is only charged to about 4v out of 4.2v... you need to spend more time with it, fully charged batteries and settling into your own use style, to see what battery life is like... You have no idea right now basically lol

I think the battery probably got charged? I wouldn't have used it if it showed blue probably

Yes, that's what I'm saying, a brand new battery has no charge, TM are charging these batteries a bit before sending them out, so that way you don't have to spend as much time charging when it arrives to get it to full, but if you care about long-term battery life, you should charge it full before first use or use a different battery at home that you already have been using...

And yeah, it probably dropped to blue within your first session?? Although that could have been a little inaccurate, it's tricky if you don't start with a fully charged battery, at least in the old TM at the vibrations, sometimes it could be a little off... So far I have had very accurate readings with the LED color change though, even if I pop in a battery that is not fully charged, it seems to switch to blue sooner as expected, so yeah just take more time and get to know it my friend!

edit. another wishlist item: lightpipes. This thing has got laser beams coming out of either end. Especially with the multi-tool removed, it's dangerous to look at!

Yes, I was going to point this out, while there is not LED light bleeding through every seam like it did with the original, the LED in the TM2 is still so freaking bright if you make eye contact it is really annoying, I like that I am using green blue purple instead of red now, but it's still a bright light, and now that it pops out the top, even with the stir tool inserted, if you make direct eye contact it is still blinding... I wish there was some way to make it just less bright, a little dim reflect something over the bulb of the led somehow?? For me it's always a game of trying to use a finger to cover the LED, while I am using it, now upside down or right side up, I just have to be mindful or not look down haha

Has anyone done an in depth comparison on this forum? Wondering whether to upgrade to the TM2 from TM1. I did search around, but couldn't find one.

Yes, but it's pretty tough to find, they were done before the TM2 came out... Basically everything is better, entire fit and finish, it is an evolved product but the original was not lacking at all for me... The new one certainly performs better, feels better, but you're not missing anything with the original honestly unless specific things like the build and knowing that it's all around going to be better appeal to you for the price...?

do these work better than OG stem & cooling unit ?

If you've never tried an aftermarket stem, or WPA with good hook, I'd highly recommend that, it could take your TM1 to new heights leaving you less tempted for the TM2 perhaps... Skim backwards in this thread, we are always sharing the aftermarket stem and hook options, you will also see more reports about the TM2 as you do :tup:
 

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
English is my 3rd language but "you'd be surprised" isnt the same as "you were surprised" no ? :hmm: lol
Didn't mean anything by it in any case.
Welcome to the Great Language Barrier Reefer :D...
Been away for the weekend and since i have the TM2 ,i decided to stop babying my OG TM and took the TI-stem and launched into the woods with 4 fully charged batteries :)). I had great time and didnt even manage to go through all batteries. I can say for sure it doesnt deliver as dense low temp hits as the TM2 ,but it still rocks and i appreciate the slightly smaller form factor :)).
 
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Cheebsy

Microbe minion
I'm with @Zipford , I don't feel the need to upgrade, but I don't use my TM all that often any more either so there's that... Maybe one day if I feel rich I'll grab one.

Yes, that's what I'm saying, a brand new battery has no charge

Really? Most lithium chemistry batteries should be shipped with a maintenance charge of about 60 to 70 percent to help keep the battery in good condition. You shouldn't store batteries long term (i.e. in a warehouse) with full or no charge.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Really? Most lithium chemistry batteries should be shipped with a maintenance charge of about 60 to 70 percent to help keep the battery in good condition. You shouldn't store batteries long term (i.e. in a warehouse) with full or no charge.

Yes, every time I buy brand new batteries from a store, like the Molicell from 18650 battery store, they come never charged yet (around 3.3-3.6v on the charger) like they are never shipped with a base charge unless they are coming with a device and even then they are often not charged at all either... The best level to store batteries at is 3.7v, but when they're brand new, what difference would it make, who knows how long they could have been sitting already? They come without a charge, I actually have quite a few new cells that I have not charged up for the first time yet... They've been sitting with their basically zero base charge for a while now, I'm not too concerned, but I do have plenty?
 
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Shit Snacks,
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Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
Have you tried using the smaller o-rings on the cooling unit that came with the TM2? There's two different sizes, maybe you have the larger ones installed?
It’s been stated herein many times that glass has variances. Do the new titanium stems coming with the TM2 vary at all like some stock stems (and other 3rd party stems/glass) do? Indeed, it’s good to have spare orings for the cooling units for this reason. My 2 stock short stems vary in both inner and outer diameter so orings fitting well in one tend to slide easily in the other. Not sure about these new titanium stems from either TM or 3rd party manufacturers, some of whom are members of this thread. I only have the glass stems so I can’t attest to the titanium stems.

In related TM news, I haven’t stopped using my repaired TM since I got it back last Thursday. It’s my favorite vape and it rose to that spot about a year ago. The lower temps I’m running it at now, starting @ 2 instead of 4 before the repair, is amazing. Not sure if the new board is calibrated differently than the original or the TM folks finely tuned it up. But it works well, as always - every single time :love::peace:
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
same here, the cells should be around 30-50 % charged, it's the best way to store 18650 batteries for 'long time' .....

It could be more like 20%, when they come brand new from the store, never 50 though... At least in my experience from a few stores
 
Shit Snacks,
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tattooed

Well-Known Member
Have you tried using the smaller o-rings on the cooling unit that came with the TM2? There's two different sizes, maybe you have the larger ones installed?

I just hadn't tried the cooling unit in the titanium stem at the time of writing that. It's in there now and went in just fine as it was without me changing anything. Going to take it for a spin as soon as I'm off the clock.
 

Dr. G

Vapman Collector*Vapman Beta Tester
Well...here is something interesting that happened to me just now. I went to put the charger on the TM2 and when I was inserting it in the hole it sparked! WTF! So, I checked to see if the plugs were correct and I reinserted and its charging...so, never leave my vapes charging alone...right? Wow...I got scared.
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
If that is all you are using to guide you, yes that is my point, green is like 75% and above, with a digital charger I could see a new one is only charged to about 4v out of 4.2v... you need to spend more time with it, fully charged batteries and settling into your own use style, to see what battery life is like... You have no idea right now basically lol
It's all I had to guide me, green means go, that much is international.

Still, a breakdown of percentages was something I didn't see in the manual. Green should be 80+% if I were to choose.

After that you start to lose power output and stress the cells a bit more.
But not a big deal to just use and abuse it if the battery is replaceable. It will be good for my shares wasting all this lithium lol.
Li-ion doesn't have a memory, it just suffers fatigue.

What does purple mean? Are the colours a quarterly breakdown of runtime or actually a voltage response, which doesn't follow a linear discharge curve?
Not clear and I read cover to cover. Not really impactful info anyway...

In terms of no idea, yeah I'm finding my way. I had the unit all of several hours when posting initially. I said I'm unsure how impressive the battery efficiency will be. I have some solid indication, and if your idea of 6 bowls per 2800mAh is accurate. Which it seems to be, though it's hard to keep track, I had a good go yesterday for a long while and I'm still under the effect at work the next/same day. It's great and my vanilla coffee and croissant went down almost as well as the eggs benny wrap, and my productivity.

But yeah, that power efficiency is perhaps about 0.5-1GHB (~500mAh average, 750 on label) per bowl, which means more time needs to be allocated for charging, and a similar number of much larger cells are required to be carried for continual uninterrupted usage. Easy enough to manage, and that ticks a box for me.

I found the Xmax V3 Pro batteries work fine, not the best.
LG HG2 similar to the included P28A, but the P28A has been chosen for good reason. You've tried the P26A I guess, probably more similar to HG2.
No need to look elsewhere or worry about powering this up if a few of those are on hand.

It would also be fairly trivial to retrofit a mains power adapter to this.

But it's totally fine as in. The more I use it the more I like it.

Yes, that's what I'm saying, a brand new battery has no charge, TM are charging these batteries a bit before sending them out, so that way you don't have to spend as much time charging when it arrives to get it to full, but if you care about long-term battery life, you should charge it full before first use or use a different battery at home that you already have been using...

And yeah, it probably dropped to blue within your first session?? Although that could have been a little inaccurate, it's tricky if you don't start with a fully charged battery, at least in the old TM at the vibrations, sometimes it could be a little off... So far I have had very accurate readings with the LED color change though, even if I pop in a battery that is not fully charged, it seems to switch to blue sooner as expected, so yeah just take more time and get to know it my friend!
It arrived in a state when I was happy to use it so I did. No qualms and no drama. If the battery was in a pack or fixed in device, I wouldn't have purchased, but also I would probably have decided to charge it fully before using it, for the marginal benefit.
These batteries should be shipped with 3.6/3.7V+ but will discharge and there's no telling how long they get to do so. There's also no guarantee of anything, but good QA will outline the desired voltage range and test for it.
That's what one of the factory testers I built does with 1V2 coin cells (for CMOS).

I think I got the green light for a good while, but it was because I wasn't the first to handle the device, it was charged to near full. I used session mode and left the device on for a long time, that's why it went flat after only three chambers. Most of the run time was a waste of energy, but in terms of raw performance this thing isn't afraid to draw power. It even has a white light mode like my much more efficient power for power comparison. A better comparison is cloud for cloud and I am over the moon there. Back to big hits on the go!!

Yes, I was going to point this out, while there is not LED light bleeding through every seam like it did with the original, the LED in the TM2 is still so freaking bright if you make eye contact it is really annoying, I like that I am using green blue purple instead of red now, but it's still a bright light, and now that it pops out the top, even with the stir tool inserted, if you make direct eye contact it is still blinding... I wish there was some way to make it just less bright, a little dim reflect something over the bulb of the led somehow?? For me it's always a game of trying to use a finger to cover the LED, while I am using it, now upside down or right side up, I just have to be mindful or not look down haha
The array of holes in the multi tool does a good job to block the dangerous emittance, but it's a pity they didn't go the extra step of infilling the LED openings all over. It would look much better, more finished, with lightpipes. I'll probably add some glue from a glue gun, as it's kind of annoying having these spot lights beaming out so brightly. Again it's not a big deal, but enough to want to fix it.

Edit: it is a bit of a big deal if you look at the LED in the dark with the multi-tool removed. I have burnt my retina noticeably from this.
Don't even do it to see what I'm talking about it's nasty for your eyesight!! Like a very bright CREE torch. Going to up my taurine intake.

The LEDs are likely driven hard or specifically selected for vision in bright environments. However a good refractive milky lightpiping action would actually make it even easier to see in daylight and will stop the viscious rays.

I cannot understand why some would need it to go higher in temp unless his unit is underperforming.
I have no idea when I quoted this. But I am really happy to see this feature, recalibration was one of the wish list items for the GH, which desparately needed it.

Performance will likely degrade as things age. Thermal cycles cause a lot of wear and tear.
 
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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
It's all I had to guide me, green means go, that much is international.

Still, a breakdown of percentages was something I didn't see in the manual. Green should be 80+% if I were to choose.

Yeah I got you, I just wanted to explain, as I saw it, based off what you said, so you and others are aware is all. I do believe it is supposed to be about 25% for each color change, however I do feel like green lasts a little more then blue and purple? Red would usually mean you can get one more bowl maybe if it's not too long of a bowl... Sort of how the four vibrate at startup, but like I said the LED seems a bit more reliably consistent, it might turn blue and then you turn it off, turn it back on it is not green, but then it will soon turn back to blue, etc.

I found the Xmax V3 Pro batteries work fine, not the best.
LG HG2 similar to the included P28A, but the P28A has been chosen for good reason. You've tried the P26A I guess, probably more similar to HG2.
No need to look elsewhere or worry about powering this up if a few of those are on hand.

Yeah you want enough amps, LG HG2 have around 18A, similar to the Samsung 30Q although those are worse in my experience more inconsistent, LG HE4 and Samsung 25R have 25A with lower capacity so they are decent and I find the brown LG can be just like the Sony VTC6... However yes the Molicel are best, they have 35 amps which seems to be even better for single battery device with high wattage power, more consistent stable throughout the charge even though they might have lower capacity (I only use these cells in my TM / 2 and TP80 in particular) and the P26A is pretty identical performance to the P28A, the only difference between them is about 200 mAh so it's fairly negligible although you might get an extra few hits out of the 28 is all? I use both quite interchangeably really without much notice
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
Yeah I got you, I just wanted to explain, as I saw it, based off what you said, so you and others are aware is all. I do believe it is supposed to be about 25% for each color change, however I do feel like green lasts a little more then blue and purple? Red would usually mean you can get one more bowl maybe if it's not too long of a bowl... Sort of how the four vibrate at startup, but like I said the LED seems a bit more reliably consistent, it might turn blue and then you turn it off, turn it back on it is not green, but then it will soon turn back to blue, etc.



Yeah you want enough amps, LG HG2 have around 18A, similar to the Samsung 30Q although those are worse in my experience more inconsistent, LG HE4 and Samsung 25R have 25A with lower capacity so they are decent and I find the brown LG can be just like the Sony VTC6... However yes the Molicel are best, they have 35 amps which seems to be even better for single battery device with high wattage power, more consistent stable throughout the charge even though they might have lower capacity (I only use these cells in my TM / 2 and TP80 in particular) and the P26A is pretty identical performance to the P28A, the only difference between them is about 200 mAh so it's fairly negligible although you might get an extra few hits out of the 28 is all? I use both quite interchangeably really without much notice
Yeah and I appreciate it. I did feel like I had to change quite a bit of my initial reactions. I should have held my tongue for longer, but it's sometimes good just to hash it out or it goes unsaid or forgotten.

With the colours, I really like the function and indication. It's a great way to get familiar with the device. I use colour battery indication for my phone too, energy bar.


I just remembered I have some 25Rs, I misidentified them as (bootleg) VTC5s which I forgot I had thrown away (defunct).
Amp output is the crucial part, so having fresh and healthy cells is a must beyond the label/tech construction.

I'll be buying a fleet of P28As to use with this.

The device is so neat.
Part of why I wanted it is to match my glass. It works so beautifully with my heady rigs.

But actually the Ti stem proved to be very awesome at the desk.
I gave it some nice colour.

DSC-1333.jpg


Looking forward for this consignment to get picked up from work so I can go home early haha
 
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PossumMD

Well-Known Member
After having mine for a week, I like it way more than the 1. I was a bit disappointed when I first got it as it didn't really hit well (a complaint I had with the og), but recalibrated the heat and fuck me does it slap. I turned the heat up to 8 (and run it at 9 at that level), and I can clear a bowl in 3-4 hits. I use the Ti stem with no cooling unit and it's not super harsh. The heat up buzz does take longer, and becomes a bit unbearable on level 3 and below, but I'm okay with that cos of the performance.
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
Can't you just put a piece of electrical tape over the pick tool to block the light?
Yes you easily could do this, or blue tack, it would just be a bit sad looking like that. Not a permanent solution.

It's otherwise quite a beautiful design, I wouldn't want to ruin that. Once I've filled the holes with a set epoxy of the right translucency I think it will be apparent why it would have been a smarter finish from factory. Taping over LEDs is a solution for the software engineers who complain about our hardware debug LEDs brightness, but they are looking at exposed PCBAs. I also think their concerns are valid, and that it is better to use comfortable user interactive hardware elements wherever possible.

If you lose the tool, it is a weird process to enter 'stealth mode' to deactivate the LEDs. You would need to block the light with something else, you also want to use the LED indication for the intended purpose during most of the operation time.


It's handy to have the tool, but it's no more handy than a bootlace ferrule or a twig off the ground. I'd prefer it if the unit was sealed on top and vented elsewhere. My stoking tools all get gummed up very quickly, I don't want to house them in the body of my vape. It's neat though so happy to have it, and it will likely be useful sometime. I don't think it would be easy to lose unless I actually planned on using it at all.
 
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