TinyMight / TM 2

gangababa

Well-Known Member
...
- The battery hatch requires either a coin or a tool to open it. We don't use coins in Congo where I live, so I'll have to think of carrying a small tool to be able to replace my battery on the go.
...
Perhaps a plastic guitar pick, you can easily have several around.
Possibly a coin sized medallion and chain or with keys.
A pants fly zipper is usually around.
 
gangababa,
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Cheebsy

Microbe minion
@Atoum Unless something has changed in the way the top plate is machined you should not need a tool to open the battery cover, in fact I would recommend not using a tool because that makes it easier to fuck up the threads if you cross thread it ever. I use moderate pressure with the pad of my thumb, you should feel the battery spring compress slightly and then it should turn easily. Hope that helps
 

Siebter

Less soul, more mind
There are some small light leakage on a bottom, battery cap is not even with top.

Should be, though – I mean, it's apparently not a huge issue as I see some users leaving it like that. Anyway, it might screw in a bit harder when the device is new, but you should be able to make it sit flush. The light leakage is normal, I think there's less of it as time goes by and the wood works its way into the gaps.

- The battery hatch requires either a coin or a tool to open it. We don't use coins in Congo where I live, so I'll have to think of carrying a small tool to be able to replace my battery on the go.
As @condition & @Cheebsy mentioned, with some practice you don't need any tools, just fingerprints.

- The setting wheel turns nice and easily, but the numbers printed around it are really small, using a color that doesn't contrast well with the aluminium of the bottom at most angles. I can't read them without putting my glasses on. I'll use a waterproof black marker to highlight 6, 7.5 and 8.5 with it to solve this, but it's just sad I have to tag my device this way, some darker and slightly larger printing in the first place would've made the trick.

I don't even look at the numbers anymore, just at the ankle the groove in that wheel has, much quicker.
 

Jill NYC

Portable Hoarder
The battery hatch requires either a coin or a tool to open it. We don't use coins in Congo where I live, so I'll have to think of carrying a small tool to be able to replace my battery on the go.
I screw it in just enough for the battery buzz. I never screw it all the way down, otherwise I do need something to help open back up.
If you leave it in just enough to make contact with battery it makes it much easier to open back up with just your fingers.
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
I screw it in just enough for the battery buzz. I never screw it all the way down, otherwise I do need something to help open back up.
If you leave it in just enough to make contact with battery it makes it much easier to open back up with just your fingers.

That’s fine as long as it’s SNUG, a slightly loose battery connection in any device can create resistance, oxidation, heat etc., depending on the amperage draw of the device. I tighten by finger, then a bit of an extra snug with a PLASTIC shirt/jacket button.
 

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
I screw it in just enough for the battery buzz. I never screw it all the way down, otherwise I do need something to help open back up.
If you leave it in just enough to make contact with battery it makes it much easier to open back up with just your fingers.

That’s fine as long as it’s SNUG, a slightly loose battery connection in any device can create resistance, oxidation, heat etc., depending on the amperage draw of the device. I tighten by finger, then a bit of an extra snug with a PLASTIC shirt/jacket button.

My rule of thumb - pun intended - is turn it a quarter or half turn more after the buzz. No more. I’m a bit OCD about how the slot on top lines up. When all else fails, usually unscrewing it, I have plastic poker chips to use. It would be nice for a different design but it’s not overly problematic for me, or my thumb. :peace:
 
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Vapetrees

Vaped Out
My rule of thumb - pun intended - is turn it a quarter of half turn more after the buzz. I’m a bit OCD about how the slot on top lines up. When all else fails, usually unscrewing it, I have plastic poker chips to use. It would be nice for a different design but it’s not overly problematic for me, or my thumb. :peace:
I wonder why they didn’t create it with a little tab that you could pinch🤏 , to make it easier to take off. Wonder if someone can make a cap for the TinyMight that is easier to open. Also, wonder why it hasn’t been done. :hmm:
 

Jill NYC

Portable Hoarder
I wonder why they didn’t create it with a little tab that you could pinch🤏 , to make it easier to take off. Wonder if someone can make a cap for the TinyMight that is easier to open. Also, wonder why it hasn’t been done. :hmm:
I have thought about this also. I was thinking of molding a little Sugru into a tab and attach so I could easily grasp, but am afraid it will look ugly.

My rule of thumb - pun intended - is turn it a quarter of half turn more after the buzz.
Yes, this is basically what I do as well, although I never looked at how it lines up, but now I am sure I will!
 

Abele Rizieri Ferrari

Well-Known Member
I found some dome screens without rim from Black Leaf i hope might fit the TM WPA's. 12,7mm https://blackleaf.eu/detail/index/sArticle/6613

I think they will work but if anyone can measure theirs I'd love to know what they measure.

Also: new to the tribe, ordered today expect to receive this week. Ordered through vaporisateur.net with 10% off (code: soldes) and free shipping!
 

shizoman

Active Member

Can't stop to test this new beauty. Used it while walking with short stem, at home with WPA and dimpled mouthpiece. Tried different bowl sizes. Everything works so far, nothing to complain, other then battery life. Ordered few more VTC6 before I found that my TM comes with Molicel. Hope it will work close by performance.

Ordered j-hook from phytohightech.com on Friday, still no confirmation. Hope it's summer delays, nothing serious, still waiting.
 

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
Sure… as long as it’s plastic. The top of the TM is unfortunately made of soft metal, aluminum I believe.
Yeah, I tried a coin 2+ years ago and it scratched the slot. Not a big deal but yes the metal is soft there so better not to scratch it further. Due to the way the vape is held together by the main screw and compression, the battery door fit is a function of how springy the bottom contact is. Mine got bent and I occasionally need to pull it up a bit; I’ve used a paper clip in a MacGuyver fashion but it’s difficult to grasp. I’ve yet to try a long metal pick as a set of tools from a local computer store I’ll try soon. Once in a while I have trouble unscrewing the door. Screwing it in never presented a problem for me in almost 2.5 years. :peace:
 

jbm

Well-Known Member
Sure… as long as it’s plastic. The top of the TM is unfortunately made of soft metal, aluminum I believe.
To my mind this is the main design flaw of the vape. It makes no sense. Mine is scratched a bit because I use the end of a pair of ceramic tweezers to screw it in. If the idea was for it to be hand screwed it should have had some sort of handle.
 
jbm,

kilo

Well-Known Member
To my mind this is the main design flaw of the vape.
Possibly, but as others have pointed out, finger friction alone can seat the top and remove it. Personally, I use a wide screwdriver bit which fits the slot snugly.
Yeah, I tried a coin 2+ years ago and it scratched the slot.
I was kidding about the nice Finnish coin but I don't see how a scratched slot would affect the vape's performance. I've found that one leg of a wooden clothespin works quite well if you want to keep the slot unblemished.
Sure… as long as it’s plastic.
Or aluminum!
 

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
Possibly, but as others have pointed out, finger friction alone can seat the top and remove it. Personally, I use a wide screwdriver bit which fits the slot snugly.

I was kidding about the nice Finnish coin but I don't see how a scratched slot would affect the vape's performance. I've found that one leg of a wooden clothespin works quite well if you want to keep the slot unblemished.

Or aluminum!
Hi! My main point was that anything metal or sharp might scratch the battery door and slot. That’s all. Indeed there are lots of options to use if necessary. I am able to use just thumb pressure most of the time to unscrew the door. The times I can’t I get the old plastic poker chip (or one of the squeeze ends of a binder clip, which is metal but used carefully it won’t scratch). A scratch on the door doesn’t affect performance in any way. My TM rocks every single time! ;):peace:
 

jbm

Well-Known Member
Possibly, but as others have pointed out, finger friction alone can seat the top and remove it.
I can slice a cantaloupe with a hammer but that doesn’t make it better than a knife. There must be something wrong with my fingers then, I’ve never been able to do that. Besides, if it’s meant to be accomplished by finger friction alone, what the hell is that slot for? Look, it’s a great vape, but that battery cover is a design mistake.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I can slice a cantaloupe with a hammer but that doesn’t make it better than a knife. There must be something wrong with my fingers then, I’ve never been able to do that. Besides, if it’s meant to be accomplished by finger friction alone, what the hell is that slot for? Look, it’s a great vape, but that battery cover is a design mistake.

The slot helps you grip it, there is spring loading, if you gently press in it is super easy to turn either direction, regardless how screwed in it is... Agree to disagree!
 

jbm

Well-Known Member
The slot helps you grip it, there is spring loading, if you gently press in it is super easy to turn either direction, regardless how screwed in it is... Agree to disagree!
For you, but yes agree to disagree. Maybe The Maker of The TM changed the design on later iterations, but how you get the slot as an affordance to fingertips is a reach too far for me.
 

kilo

Well-Known Member
Besides, if it’s meant to be accomplished by finger friction alone, what the hell is that slot for?
No one said that it’s meant to be accomplished by finger friction alone; users have mentioned it as an option. The slot is obviously designed for people to use something convenient like a coin or another handy implement – like a finger – if they wish. The cosmetic damage to the cover was probably never even considered to be an issue. It's probably the simplest (and cheapest) way to machine a way to unscrew it. A hex socket might get deformed over time and would require an Allen key which could get lost. A flush mounted lifting ring wouldn't be possible in such a small piece. I suppose someone could contact the maker and ask what they use. The TM combines high-end features with more pedestrian aspects – that's one of the reasons I love it!
 
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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
For you, but yes agree to disagree. Maybe The Maker of The TM changed the design on later iterations, but how you get the slot as an affordance to fingertips is a reach too far for me.

No it's always been the same, my original TM was dropped with battery in it, I used to not screw the cap all the way down, so it would be easier to grip and change battery faster, however after the drop now it has to be screwed all the way flush to make the connection... I still don't really have trouble with it though because a gentle press down gives it enough room in the threads with a battery in there to unscrew, and pressing down to screw back in is also not a big deal for me, just using the tip of my thumb... With my newer TM, which is now itself older since I got it over a year ago, it is maybe machined a little better with the aluminum threading so it works even better, though it does like to go down all the way flush, and I think it is more safe security to do that, it is not fully flush but close when I screw down all the way, not over screwing, stopping as soon as there is resistance. And it is still quick and easy for me to unscrew, just gentle press down with my thumb tip as before... It's not like you're really sticking your fingertip in the slot, the slot is inconsequential, it's just any texture to have some sort of grip as you press down in, that's what makes it easy to turn the gentle press down, loosening it within the threads if that makes sense... Perhaps it is not exactly mindless, but almost nothing I do is lol
 

Siebter

Less soul, more mind
I mean it may need some practice to unscrew the cap without tools, but once you get it, it's pretty easy. I hold the TM in my left hand for a firm grip and put the middle and index finger of my right hand flat on the cap, then a bit of counterclockwise twisting while pressing down → et voilà. It becomes second nature fast.

A nicer battery cap used to be on my TM wish list, but nowadays, while I still understand why people are asking for it, I don't find it necessary at all.
 

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
my original TM was dropped with battery in it, I used to not screw the cap all the way down, so it would be easier to grip and change battery faster, however after the drop now it has to be screwed all the way flush to make the connection...
Early on I accidentally dropped a couple of batteries in the chamber causing the same issue. And the battery door does fit nearly flush after initial contact, i.e. the buzz. As I said above just a quarter or half turn more to make sure the battery won’t move (and sate my OCD with the direction of the slot). It’s not a big problem at all though another design would be cool (like the folding ring mentioned above and previously too herein). You get used to it using the fleshy part of your thumb to unscrew and screw it on. That’s what I do. It works (most of the time, lol). :peace:
 
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