TinyMight / TM 2

[BubbleDrop]

And the basket screens i have fit in the TM but they get caught on the oring when removing the MP and falls into the chamber.

I'm having the same issue. What I do now is unscrew and remove the top (around the MP) so that the basket comes out gently.
You still need to hold the TM upside down.

 

[JoeKickass]

I've been using 4mm boro beads in the long stem for months now as I find the cooling is better and the airflow is more wide open compared to my other stem options. I have my shorty loaded with balls as well but I prefer the longer stem as it stays cool easier when I take back to back long draws. Cooling unit ends with the bolt, washers, and nuts removed is the most secure but basket screens work as well. Keep some room for the balls to love around as well which lengthens time between cleaning from restricted airflow. I think I had 50 or so balls in my long stem? A ball setup is more of a pain when it comes to cleaning if the balls spill but I have a small strainer that makes cleaning a breeze.

Undoubtedly, these screens are excellent ... for me it is the best option for those who do not like to pack directly on the stem ... as it has a smaller diameter it does not stick to the o-ring when removing the stem.

Before making my mod screen, I was looking for a 15mm diameter screen ... I bought several on ebay and they were all 16mm. As I didn't find it I made the mod and now I prefer the mod.

The extra long stem is a mandatory extra (EDIT): I don't like the curve ... I cut mine, my long stem is straight

I'm having the same issue. What I do now is unscrew and remove the top (around the MP) so that the basket comes out gently.
You still need to hold the TM upside down.

There is actually a huge secret with the TinyMight: don't use any additional screens!

I tried all types of dome and basket screens with the cooling unit, but I found they all clog significantly faster than the stock cooling unit by itself. Not sure if its the flatness of the screen on the stock CU that helps, or just stacking multiple screens together that hurts, but stock CU will last me weeks without cleaning. Not so with the added screens.

My TinyMight has been rocking two of the cooling units back to back in the long stem, and the vapor is so cool and luxurious it has eliminated my VAS, I kid you not!

And cleaning two cooling units is just as easy as one, just disassemble and throw everything in a ziploc with iso!

 

[condition]

Hey guys. Thanks so much for your thoughts. The o-ring I'm talking about is blue, wide, and thin.
- pull out the glass tube that holds the CU
- unscrew the metal part that fits around the above glass tube
- below that sits the large RED o-ring
- below that sits the metal cylinder. This blue o-ring appeared to be sitting on top of that metal cylinder.

I'll try harder to get it back in. I haven't actually noticed any significant decrease in performance w/o it. but I kept it just in case of course!

Hey Paul, I got mine week ago and I already have a very thin blue o-ring separated after dismantling it. The ring apart from very thin is also very loose and I cannot put it back on. Have you found a way to put it back in?

 

[dzoinp]

Hey Paul, I got mine week ago and I already have a very thin blue o-ring separated after dismantling it. The ring apart from very thin is also very loose and I cannot put it back on. Have you found a way to put it back in?

Paul?
Yes... with a small plastic screwdriver or similar. (clear o-ring in the photo)

TinyMight / TM 2

Just to be clear for my own self. This O ring youre talking about, you have to take the plate off to access it? Only asking cause I've never actually seen this other O ring even though I've seen a few posts about it and tried to see it. It is possible to replace this o-ring without removing the...

fuckcombustion.com

 

[condition]

thanks but maybe we talk about different things, I cannot see a blue oring on the pic, I will post my own pic later

 

[Shit Snacks]

There is actually a huge secret with the TinyMight: don't use any additional screens!

I tried all types of dome and basket screens with the cooling unit, but I found they all clog significantly faster than the stock cooling unit by itself. Not sure if its the flatness of the screen on the stock CU that helps, or just stacking multiple screens together that hurts, but stock CU will last me weeks without cleaning. Not so with the added screens.

My TinyMight has been rocking two of the cooling units back to back in the long stem, and the vapor is so cool and luxurious it has eliminated my VAS, I kid you not!

And cleaning two cooling units is just as easy as one, just disassemble and throw everything in a ziploc with iso!

You misunderstood, we were talking about rimmed basket screens, used in other stems without the cooling unit... Also though I preferred the performance using a basket screen in front of my cooling unit screen.

 

[Bad Dog]

My o ring is black but it sits on the glass cylinder that surrounds the metal tube

 

[dzoinp]

thanks but maybe we talk about different things, I cannot see a blue oring on the pic, I will post my own pic later

lol
yes we are talking about the same o-ring ...open your mind...the sky... the sky is not always blue
i'm seeing the rainbow...beautiful

 

[angular ocelot]

thanks but maybe we talk about different things, I cannot see a blue oring on the pic, I will post my own pic later

the colour of the o ring varies.

 

[condition]

View attachment 6015View attachment 6016
My o ring is black but it sits on the glass cylinder that surrounds the metal tube

Thanks then my problem is that my blue oring is too loose to fit it or at least this is my impression this time at night. Also as I looked the spare o-rings, there isn't one available.

 

[cybrguy]

Hey Paul, I got mine week ago and I already have a very thin blue o-ring separated after dismantling it. The ring apart from very thin is also very loose and I cannot put it back on. Have you found a way to put it back in?

So, I'm curious. If you have only had it for a week why were you disassembling it? Was something not working?

I'm a pretty geeky guy and I appreciated the breakdown on pg 187, but I have only had mine apart once and that was to fix something that went wrong (vibration had paused). I like to problem solve, I do that for a living, but absent a problem I wouldn't be very likely to disassemble a device like this that I rely on, especially knowing from the breakdown where things might go wrong. Maybe that's just me.
I don't mean to be critical, I am just wondering.
The time I did have it apart I never saw that blue oring, nor do I see it in that breakdown.. Maybe I didn't take it far enough apart...

 

[angular ocelot]

Thanks then my problem is that my blue oring is too loose to fit it or at least this is my impression this time at night. Also as I looked the spare o-rings, there isn't one available.

ok, so on the top photo, you need to remove the loose aluminium cylinder, then there will be a gap between the cylinder that is still retained (on mine its glass, im not sure if that has changed) and the top plate. the o ring goes in that gap.
edit, my aluminium cylinder may be stainless on yours. i think tinymight made a change but i cant remember which cylinder it was. lol.

 

[Vaporific]

the colour of the o ring varies.

Does it come in fuchsia?

Ive had my Tinymight for 9+ months, use it nearly daily, and always with the short stem and cooling unit. Just a small screen adjacent to the CU screen helps keeps things a bit cleaner; it gets brushed occasionally. Everything gets an ISO bath every couple of weeks. The long stem I got thrown in when I bought it remains unused. Love the TM the way it is. Occasionally go through glass with a universal WPA. No need to fuss over things. I like simple - and good. The Tinymight is exceptional on its own for me. It’s totally awesome. Was checking out fine grit sandpaper in Depot yesterday to potentially sand it down and give it a little color.

I will not stain it pink to match the fuchsia orings however.

 

[Bad Dog]

Thanks then my problem is that my blue oring is too loose to fit it or at least this is my impression this time at night. Also as I looked the spare o-rings, there isn't one available.

No sorry they don't send replacement o rings for that size. Reread @dzoinp original post it should have all the details you need

 

[cybrguy]

The time I did have it apart I never saw that blue oring, nor do I see it in that breakdown.. Maybe I didn't take it far enough apart...

OK, I see it now. Mine is black and I never removed it when I took mine apart. Didn't even see it.
I find I need to clean the aluminum tube occasionally as it gets some reclaim on it, but I haven't noticed others mentioning it. Are others needing to do this also?

 

[Bad Dog]

OK, I see it now. Mine is black and I never removed it when I took mine apart. Didn't even see it.
I find I need to clean the aluminum tube occasionally as it gets some reclaim on it, but I haven't noticed others mentioning it. Are others needing to do this also?View attachment 6022

Even with months of use and no cleaning the vaporizer its self I only ever get a dull foggy glaze on the inside of the metal tube, that comes off clean with a quick iso qtiping. I've never seen anything like yours

 

[cybrguy]

Maybe my "dull foggy glaze" is just thicker than yours. It does clean easily the same as yours.
If my experience is unique I can think of 2 possible reasons. One of the adapters (for water) I use daily has an uneven cut so it does not sit flat on the bottom of the stem channel. The other is the possibility that I put the flat screen (at the bottom) back upside down and it doesn't seal at the bottom as maybe it should.
The problem with both of these ideas is that because of the red oring at the top of the channel there should be no airflow (therefore no vapor) between the stem and the aluminum so there should be nothing to carry honey to leave it there.

Curious...

 

[Bad Dog]

I can think of 2 possible reasons. One of the adapters (for water) I use daily has an uneven cut so it does not sit flat on the bottom of the stem channel.

This reason seems unlikely to me because my first rbt stem had a very noticeable bulge on one side, I had concerns about it working but it did no problem even though it didn't sit flat at all. I used that stem for several months without issue and even still use it when I'm cleaning my other stem.

Are you clearing your hit or stopping with vapor in the stem? If your not clearing your hit maybe that's why there's so much residue, but I'm going to take a wild guess and say that isn't the case for you either being a seasoned vaporist. Maybe it's just a usage thing? At my heaviest I was 10 stems a day for a period of well over a month and I never experienced anything like your pic. Very curious

 

[cybrguy]

Are you clearing your hit or stopping with vapor in the stem?

If I leave any vapor it is just for a few moments till I'm ready to finish the bowl or hit. But even then the vapor should be contained inside the stem. I can't really see why there would be any on the other side of the glass. I have always wondered why there was any accumulation on the aluminum but never thought to bring it up.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Yeah mine was dirtier than expected, once I finally cleaned it, though it did not look quite like yours either, shouldn't be anything to worry about at least, don't overthink it!

 

[Bad Dog]

I just took a look at mine, haven't cleaned it since some time before Xmas, it's just barely dull , so much so it wouldn't even show up in a pic with my crappy camera. From what you said can I assume you use session mode? Maybe the combo of vapor left in the stem and being in session mode with the heater on cause it to leak out the stem and fill the oven?

 

[cybrguy]

That is a good thought. I do use session mode most of the time. I don't leave it on if I'm not taking hits (battery hog) but the TM is certainly engaged more than when using manual mode. The stem over the bowl gets hot enough that I switch stems often, so I could see how that heat might draw some vapor into the channel.
Best explanation so far...

As Snacks said it isn't a concern, just a tad more maintenance, tho I think I have only cleaned it now 3 times.

 

[Djsleepy]

No sorry they don't send replacement o rings for that size. Reread @dzoinp original post it should have all the details you need

I just got three of those , two blue and one black!

and the oring goes on inside of lid FYI!

 

[condition]

So I woke up and installed it finally. I hope I fit it properly.

In the picture there are 2 metal rings, the big one with housing which goes on last. So where the small metal ring goes? At the bottom? And also note that one side is different from the other so if it fits at the bottom I suppose that the side of the following photo sits at the bottom and the flat side looks up for the metal cylinder to sit on top. Please confirm.

 

[justcametomind]

Maybe my "dull foggy glaze" is just thicker than yours. It does clean easily the same as yours.
If my experience is unique I can think of 2 possible reasons. One of the adapters (for water) I use daily has an uneven cut so it does not sit flat on the bottom of the stem channel. The other is the possibility that I put the flat screen (at the bottom) back upside down and it doesn't seal at the bottom as maybe it should.
The problem with both of these ideas is that because of the red oring at the top of the channel there should be no airflow (therefore no vapor) between the stem and the aluminum so there should be nothing to carry honey to leave it there.

Curious...

It may be because of some vapor staying inside the vape, (inhaling technique or wobbly adapter?) but I always hit my TM for a second or 2 after I disengage the power button and after that I look inside my wpa after every hit and if there's some fog stuck inside.