This is what confuses me, we’re hearing reports of people combusting now more frequently. What is the reason you think?I think the actual temp for combusting dried plant matter (including pyrolysis etc.) is at about 220°C; the TM says it can go up to 240°C, but I'm sure that refers to the temp on the coil, not in the chamber (because I never combusted with the TM).
Anyway, I'm sensing a bit of a derail. :-)
This is what confuses me, we’re hearing reports of people combusting now more frequently. What is the reason you think?
Possibly a hardware issue but I don’t think my heater screen touched the coil but we may never know. It could be human error and perhaps I did try to press the button and draw before it was ready (in on demand mode) but I’m not certain if that either. What I do know is that there definitely was combustion going on - that unmistakable smell and taste (yuck!).Well, in case of @NarrativeCausality & @Vaporific it had nothing to do with the set temp, but with the screen above the heater being pushed out of place somehow.
Possibly a hardware issue but I don’t think my heater screen touched the coil but we may never know. It could be human error
unless I carefully trim it a bit. Easy to do with scissors but may not perfectly fit the way the stock screen does
@murf2010This is what confuses me, we’re hearing reports of people combusting now more frequently. What is the reason you think?
Oh but I did see those and used those as reference and benchmark. Also your post on Page 129. Thanks again! So the clear oring goes on top of the glass cylinder, eh? It will easier than trying to squeeze it below the cylinder. I thought it went below but I guess I’m wrong. I didn’t notice where it came out of but it was the last thing I removed - until I got the screen ring and screen out. I’ll replace and get a new clear oring ASAP.Haven't you seen my photos? it seems not and were put to help you.
That o-ring sits ABOVE the glass tube!
Another thing and sorry for the sincerity, I do not advise you to make the mod screen ...
EDIT: yeah, I may suspend the heater screen mod altogether in light of this incident. Live and learn...
Agreed. Your pics were wonderful. Until the screen ring came out - without the screen - I hadn’t realized there’s a narrow channel to seat the screen into the ring. I concur the screen should be perfectly seated. Mine is again (the original stock one). Thanks again for all your help!! I won’t broach this topic again any time soon, that’s for sure.With or without my mod screen, the original screen must be perfectly seated in the groove of the ring.
In the case of my mod it is even more important because the ring is placed in reverse ...
the capsule ended up pushing the screen right into the coil
Page 129 is a minor Picasso and possible nominee . I had to dig that up during my screen incident.this seems to happen rather a lot. i have not yet tried the mighty dosing capsule, but i dont think i will at this point. honestly the times i really need a dosing capsule are pretty rare. they are just very convenient.
thanks @dzoinp for your breakdown pictures & explanations. it would be useful to compile these kinds of posts somewhere so they can be easily found when needed. oh wait. arent there these best-of threads? this belongs in it i think. ok, here is how it works http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/how-the-best-of-threads-work-post-nominations-here.16613/
i would happily nominate one of your posts, is there one where all the info & pictures is together? or could you edit / compile it for clarity, so it is understandable without context? your screenmod would qualifie too imo, but how to safely reassemble the tm seems crucial.
i am sure there are other posts in this thread that would qualifie, this one just stuck out to me now.
edit: this http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/tinymight-vaporizer.44563/page-143#post-1473562 probably works. unless you can think of another post or want to change anything, i would nominate this
no dremel needed
It stays always inside the TM as the original one
You asked for pictures .. ok...take:
Just received my TM I took things apart to give them a nice clean.
Quick question: Which way is the internal screen supposed to be oriented. Is the thicker metal ring supposed to face up or is it the thinner/wider side up?
So experiment #2 tonight: holding button for a 5 count at each step, started at 3.5 (wispy & tasty), stepped up .5 at a time until 5.5 where I tasted my first hint of popcorn. So I think 5 will be my ceiling. I may try starting lower tho.I am having the same issue that someone else mentioned - extraction is TOO quick. I want to take small hits, spread out over a couple of hours - not huge rips. I end up tasting burnt popcorn much earlier than expected. I'm learning that this takes a light touch on the trigger, only holding it down between 1 and 4 beats before releasing. Also backing off the temp dial a bit to 4-5 helps as well.
thinner/wider side up... to prevent the stem pushing the screen down
@karec, not the same incident...@dzoinp i did a similar mistake remember?
sorry that i must ask
because I didn't understand their answer. thinner/wider side up is contradictory or not? normal is the wider side up or? and you better mean the thinner side up so that no accident happens? or have I misunderstood that ? or i am stupid
Correct, with the original screen which is back in place. It was the first time removing these parts and hope it wasn’t upside down but I don’t recall. It’s back in now, fat side up .With @Vaporific this happened with the original screen... probably because the ring was upsidown
@karec, not the same incident...
With @Vaporific this happened with the original screen... probably because the ring was upsidown
EDIT: @sativs Sorry ... I corrected my previous post, see if you understand...
The original screen assemble allows the stem to fit with minimal clearance.
The wider (with lower ID inside diameter) part of the ring prevents the screen and the stem itself from being pushed down.
I am sure that many TM have the heater screen turned upside down...If your stem shakes too much when fully placed on the TM, check that your heater screen is not upside down
The reason for turning the wide side of the screen holder down for some of you is that you do not load properly as directed from the manu [...]
tinymanual said:When you re-assemble it, make sure the mesh holder wider flange is upwards and DON’T tighten the tube holder strongly.
@karec, not the same incident...
With @Vaporific this happened with the original screen... probably because the ring was upsidown
EDIT: @sativs Sorry ... I corrected my previous post, see if you understand...
The original screen assemble allows the stem to fit with minimal clearance.
The thinner side up (with higher ID inside diameter) side up
The wider (with lower ID inside diameter) part of the ring prevents the screen and the stem itself from being pushed down.
I am sure that many TM have the heater screen turned upside down...If your stem shakes too much when fully placed on the TM, check that your heater screen is not upside down
EDIT:
this side down
this side up
@NarrativeCausality – Upwards, though I find the width of the rim to be the more obvious indicator.
Bonus tip: instead of dropping the heater screen in the device (which is a bit of a hit or miss kind of a thing) put the screen on your finger and insert it with the device being upside down. Much easier.