Discontinued ThermoVape Revolution for concentrates

[OF]

i remember being told multiple times in this thread that the revolution atomizer and ava atomizer were the same sans the engraving. by revolution i mean the rev/dart not the rev window. hell even TV explained to me when i order to order a ava / dart loading tool and i would have the exact same thing as a dart marked with revolution. im pretty sure other ppl in this thread purchased the same and were under the same impression

OK , thanks, got it. I see the misunderstanding.

Revolution/DART marked tubes ran out before the ceramic and heaters did so you could (and it seems did) order a custom DART made with an AVA tube. You have a special case. "Real AVAs" have different things inside. Revolution (with window) and DART are the same 'inside', AVA is different.

I think e-juice vaporizes at a much lower temp than oil, so at the very least I'd expect the AVA to have a lower wattage and maximum temp. As far as pore size on the ceramic, I don't recall hearing anything about that before. Maybe someone from TET can clear this up after they get through the Cera assembly crunch.

That's my understanding as well.

OF

 

[Bob Loblaw]

i have a SV AVA that i run simultaneously w/ a normal SV Dart at 6v on my dual head persei and i can't tell the difference. my two cents

 

[Sunset]

If i continuously pressing the power button for 20 or more seconds, will it damage the revolution Dart or be over heated?

Thx

 

[JoeKickass]

If i continuously pressing the power button for 20 or more seconds, will it damage the revolution Dart or be over heated?

Thx

I melted a plastic tip but I think I held it for longer than 30

 

[bopper]

If i continuously pressing the power button for 20 or more seconds, will it damage the revolution Dart or be over heated?

Thx

One of the cleaning methods described by TET for the Revolution/Dart involved final drying by holding the power on for 20 seconds at a time, several times, waiting a minute in between. So 20 seconds shouldn't be a problem with proper voltage.

Best,

bopper

 

[MadHasher]

Is it normal for the revolution to develop minor bulges and what look to be minor stress cracks on the exterior near the base? I'm not too terribly worried about it, but if it's going to fail, I sure hope it does so before the warranty is up

 

[OF]

Is it normal for the revolution to develop minor bulges and what look to be minor stress cracks on the exterior near the base? I'm not too terribly worried about it, but if it's going to fail, I sure hope it does so before the warranty is up

Sounds like heat damage which should not be happening at sub 400F temperatures.... Has this been torched? On the outside I'd think it's a cosmetic issue, but internally you probably don't want to be sucking in flakes of nickle?

So, no I don't think it's normal.

OF

 

[MadHasher]

Sounds like heat damage which should not be happening at sub 400F temperatures.... Has this been torched? On the outside I'd think it's a cosmetic issue, but internally you probably don't want to be sucking in flakes of nickle?

So, no I don't think it's normal.

OF

No, I haven't done anything to/with it other than use it for the past many days. It's still in beautiful working order, and the flaw is small and not all that noticeable, just a bit concerning for something so new, I guess. I suppose I have the better part of three months to send it in if I feel it necessary.

As best I can tell the flaw is entirely external, so that's nice. Most of my glass is gone these days, so this is my mail piece

 

[OF]

I suppose I have the better part of three months to send it in if I feel it necessary.

No, if you haven't abused it (like with a torch) and the plating fails that would be a defect in 'materials or workmanship' not specifically excluded (like the heater element itself), it's warrantied for life.

I'm recommending you enjoy it, it's a good one for sure.

OF

 

[Darb]

I melted a plastic tip but I think I held it for longer than 30

You melted a revolution tip?

 

[Spliff]

i have a SV AVA that i run simultaneously w/ a normal SV Dart at 6v on my dual head persei and i can't tell the difference. my two cents

FWIW
This has been my experience as well.
Though I do have to add, when I tried a "lv" Ava, all that would happen is melting of my concentrate- no vapor.
Called TeT, Zeki was kind enough to run through the differences in resistances of all the different Ava and dart/rev carts.
Lv=2ohm Sv=3ohm Hv=4ohm, (recalled from memory, might need to double check) other than those resistances the carts were supposed to be same just different names on the side. That's when I tried the Sv, it worked fine on my ego twist, using the same oil/wax I tried using in the Lv Ava. So I investigated no further.
I do really like their carts though, and hope they find enough of a following to bring them back.
I know, I know Cera.Cera Cera......she gets all the guys (and gals).

 

[sfld]

Man i cant stress how much i love my dart. I'm on my second dart because i lost one... but seriously .1 = 10 hits. 2 hits will have you LIT lol im a 15 year smoker and i mean i smoke at least 3 - 4 grams a day. The ultra will literally make you feel how you want aka medicated. Pop in a small BB size, heat it and watch the wax boil into the ceramic.... then cloud after cloud after cloud. A couple weeks ago i even took it to the lions game.

 

[rcflo]

Is it normal for the revolution to develop minor bulges and what look to be minor stress cracks on the exterior near the base? I'm not too terribly worried about it, but if it's going to fail, I sure hope it does so before the warranty is up

The new DART i just got from TET in there backstock sale looks like it has a crack at the bottom of the outer wall. havent even used it yet, and this is what it looks like below. I just hope it wont leak out the bottom because it seems the crack is propagating due to a small imperfection in the seal between the base and the outer wall (cylinder thats cracking).

I'm going to use it until it does leak or i see that the crack continues to grow... (then run a couple calcs from my old fracture mechanics notes/textbook to see how long i have until the crack leads to failure )... haha kidding, ill just take a dab instead and send it to TET for repair when i feel that it's necessary. Use it 'till it breaks MH, i'd be surprised if TET didn't take care of something like this no matter how long after you buy it.

 

[Tweek]

I would shoot the guys over at Thermovape an email just in case. Doesn't hurt to put in on their radar if you have a problem in the future. They may even ask you to send it back for a fix now.

 

[Quetzalcoatl]

Man i cant stress how much i love my dart. I'm on my second dart because i lost one... but seriously .1 = 10 hits. 2 hits will have you LIT lol im a 15 year smoker and i mean i smoke at least 3 - 4 grams a day. The ultra will literally make you feel how you want aka medicated. Pop in a small BB size, heat it and watch the wax boil into the ceramic.... then cloud after cloud after cloud. A couple weeks ago i even took it to the lions game.

My problem with it is that whenever I have some oil, I want to try it just to try it. To have fun, marvel. It's so easy, dab, replace, engage switch, vapors. Lung-busters. It's so small, I love it. I can stick it in my pocket as well as a little oil case from the collective in my pockets and not even notice it. One battery will definitely suit me for a day's worth of medicating. It's just so easy I get the urge to try it. That first hit that comes out crazy flavorful but a little thin, and you just know that the next one is gonna be good. It's like a taste of dessert before the main course. It goes wherever I go, be it the library, the backyard, get-togethers, bonfires, etc. Never fails to impress me and whoever gets to try it.

I would shoot the guys over at Thermovape an email just in case. Doesn't hurt to put in on their radar if you have a problem in the future. They may even ask you to send it back for a fix now.

Agreed, get it taken care of now in case an unforseeable problems comes up in the future and it can't be fixed then, but could have now. Better safe than sorry, especially nowadays with the Cera being their main focus...

 

[Quetzalcoatl]

edit: derp

 

[OF]

The new DART i just got from TET in there backstock sale looks like it has a crack at the bottom of the outer wall.

I'm going to use it until it does leak or i see that the crack continues to grow...

Even if it's an actual crack in the tube, you're not going to get a leak, it's double walled there. Notice the unplated brass? The works are inside that tube as well.

My advice is 'use it in good health, TV will for sure back it up anytime'.

OF

 

[rcflo]

Even if it's an actual crack in the tube, you're not going to get a leak, it's double walled there. Notice the unplated brass? The works are inside that tube as well.

My advice is 'use it in good health, TV will for sure back it up anytime'.

OF

I didnt mean leak out the crack. i meant leak out the imperfection/slit in the base where the cylinder meets the thread base

Its hard to see in the picture, but there is a light bulge. (you really have to see a cross sectional view of the base to see the bulge. its not yet a gap, im sure there are orings in there)

 

[OF]

I didnt mean leak out the crack. i meant leak out the imperfection/slit in the base where the cylinder meets the thread base

Its hard to see in the picture, but there is a light bulge. (you really have to see a cross sectional view of the base to see the bulge. its not yet a gap, im sure there are orings in there)

Nope, no o-rings involved. The two tubes are pressed together trapping the free end of the coil between them (probably causing the bulge?) as it comes through a small hole in the inner (unplated) tube making the electrical connection. The teflon button under the center contact is the only thing there that's not metal or ceramic. The ceramic ring around the heater sits inside the inner tube, flush to the top. The plate that forms the chamber floor sits on top of this tube (which holds it up) and is trapped under the lip in the outer tube you see looking down. If there was any excess liquid to leak, it would do so through the vent holes above the threads as it normally does when you flood it. They lead straight into the works.

Not to worry.

OF

 

[rcflo]

Thanks OF,
I probably should have said seal instead of o-ring. Didn't know the only non metal seal was the visible one under the center contact. That's pretty cool to know. Anyways, I didn't know the exact inner workings of the rev since I've never had one break on me to take apart, also cool to know now.
Cheers

 

[OF]

Thanks OF,
I probably should have said seal instead of o-ring.

You're welcome.

The seal, such as it is, happens above the area you're worried about where the two tubes are normal after the crimp. But remember, no real seal is needed since the system is open at the top and bottom. Anything that might leak is soaked into the ceramic sponge....or so the theory goes.

Enjoy it, it's a well designed and made tool for good.

OF

 

[bopper]

Isn't the construction of the Revolution substantially similar to the construction of the AVA atomizer? There is a nice cutaway of an AVA atomizer at 14:05 of the following video:

ThermoVape AVA Atomizer - In Depth

Best,

bopper

 

[OF]

Isn't the construction of the Revolution substantially similar to the construction of the AVA atomizer?

Yup. You can see the inner tube going up to the top surface level on the plate. The free end of the heater goes through this tube lower left and is crimped in place when the outer tube is pressed home (causing the bulge?).

OF

 

[2clicker]

for those of you who have cleaned your rev by boiling and soaking... what were your methods?

i recently got a SS mesh basket to sit in my boiling pan. this is so the rev and dart dont sit on the bottom of the pan. instead they are suspended in the center of the pan. anyway, both are gunked up from using impure homemade errls (im working at it ). so ive got some shit sitting ontop of the ceramic disc in both the rev and dart. its black and clearly stuck on pretty good.

in your opinion should i soak in ISO first and boil after or vise versa? or does the order even matter? obviously ill want to end with a boil so that i can perform the 20/20 dry technique. just curious if anyone has any thoughts. i want to get these tools as clean as i can before doing my next runs.

 

[kushcabbage]

Look into pumping iso through some tubing to blast out everything, I do it both ways. Recycle that iso too! I usualy then let them sit in the iso for an hour or so then onto the boil for a good 20 min. After that at least for me comes baking at 175 for 20 min roating every few min in a convection oven to fully dry out the mositure. (don't include any mouthpieces in the oven) I'm sure everyone has a different way of cleaning that works for them.

for those of you who have cleaned your rev by boiling and soaking... what were your methods?

i recently got a SS mesh basket to sit in my boiling pan. this is so the rev and dart dont sit on the bottom of the pan. instead they are suspended in the center of the pan. anyway, both are gunked up from using impure homemade errls (im working at it ). so ive got some shit sitting ontop of the ceramic disc in both the rev and dart. its black and clearly stuck on pretty good.

in your opinion should i soak in ISO first and boil after or vise versa? or does the order even matter? obviously ill want to end with a boil so that i can perform the 20/20 dry technique. just curious if anyone has any thoughts. i want to get these tools as clean as i can before doing my next runs.