Discontinued ThermoVape Revolution for concentrates

[fake name]

[quote="2clicker, post: 318324, member: 3628",]

in your opinion should i soak in ISO first and boil after or vise versa? or does the order even matter? obviously ill want to end with a boil so that i can perform the 20/20 dry technique. just curious if anyone has any thoughts. i want to get these tools as clean as i can before doing my next runs.[/quote]

I normally do both a couple of times, starting with two soaks for reclaim, then boil soak boil. Seems to work well for me.

 

[Tweek]

I used to just do an ISO soak first to loosen everything up, then boil out what didn't rinse out.

 

[sfld]

i soak in iso, clean the inside walls with a tooth pic, soak, blow thru it with a hose sometimes or even jus the tip itself, then boil, sometimes i dont even boil and just let it sit in water, and air dry for a day

 

[2clicker]

thanks for the replies everyone! much appreciated.

does anyone do any scraping of the pile of shit that sits on the ceramic disc? between soak and boil? after? leave it alone?

 

[kushcabbage]

thanks for the replies everyone! much appreciated.

does anyone do any scraping of the pile of shit that sits on the ceramic disc? between soak and boil? after? leave it alone?

I used to when I had thermovapes teflon dabber tool cause I was always scared to break the ceramic. Now I just reclaim it in the iso.

 

[Tweek]

thanks for the replies everyone! much appreciated.

does anyone do any scraping of the pile of shit that sits on the ceramic disc? between soak and boil? after? leave it alone?

Just do a burn off. Whatever sticks around is not worth worrying about.

 

[2clicker]

Just do a burn off. Whatever sticks around is not worth worrying about.

so it just stays there?

im aware that the ceramic will never be white again, but i figured it would be middle to dark brown worst case. or just stained looking. the stuff on mine is black and seems to be a layer of it in there. its from using nasty ISO reclaim in them (i know ).

ive got an SV and LV Dart as well as a LV Rev soaking in 91% right now. in a very small jar where the pieces just fit into it. jar is topped off with ISO and lid on. going to let it soak for at least a day. then when i get around to it, i will give it a good 15-20 min boil and see how it looks.

any other recommendations?

 

[OF]

I used to just do an ISO soak first to loosen everything up, then boil out what didn't rinse out.

Just do a burn off. Whatever sticks around is not worth worrying about.

I think Tweek has it nailed both times. At least that's the way I do it. I used to soak for 20 minutes or so then run it in the ultrasonic for about 2 or 3 minutes before boiling for 15 or 20. Since I use a SS pan with a 'homogenizer plate' on the bottom (sauce pan) there are no hot spots so I don't use the basket (which is a PITA to clean.....). Then TV reported a broken heater in a DART in a test run so I quit the Ultrasonic part when they no longer recommended it.

Not to worry about minor staining (it won't come out 'white as new'), it won't effect performance at all. It seems to be mostly carbon in the pores. When it's being rebuilt they can torch it hot enough to burn the carbon back to CO2 but it's only cosmetic.

One time I fouled one up real bad with bubble hash and since the word about Ultrasonics had just come out I didn't want to go there. Then I remembered Tim's suggestion to try a '20/20/20 burn' before another normal cycle. Took the trick!

BTW, don't poke at the surface of the floor plate, it's very brittle and has the structural surface strength of a dried out kitchen sponge......

Good luck.

OF

 

[Krazzykid]

The 20/20/20 burn cycle does wonders for getting all of that gunk off and out of the ceramic.
That is power on for 20 seconds, followed by off for 20 seconds, repeated 20 times.

You would do this after the ISO soak and the boil. You can let it completely dry first or just blow out most of the water and let it sit for an hour or so.
If you want to really make sure it is clean you can do everything twice: ISO, boil, 20/20/20, ISO, boil, 20/20/20

As has been said you can save the ISO to let it evaporate and reclaim whatever goodies may have(probably are) in there. I filter my ISO through a couple of coffee filters to remove any solid pieces of burnt oil that are in there(unbleached filters are recommended but not necessary). Then put in a glass pie dish or pyrex pan to evaporate. Do this in a well ventilated area!

PS, 91% ISO or greater does the best job. You could also use Everclear, but I don't think it does as good of a job.

 

[2clicker]

thanks Krazzy. i use everclear for washing fresh flowers and cleaning up ISO returns. i also think using ISO here would be best as it is more aggressive.

 

[rcflo]

thanks Krazzy. i use everclear for washing fresh flowers and cleaning up ISO returns. i also think using ISO here would be best as it is more aggressive.

I have always steered clear of putting everclear extracted errl in my lungs... Sure, its alright for eating, but I always understood there are sugars and other compounds in the everclear that should probably not be heated up and inhaled... These sugars may also be the culprit of your 'residue on the ceramic' problem.

Just my

 

[2clicker]

I have always steered clear of putting everclear extracted errl in my lungs... Sure, its alright for eating, but I always understood there are sugars and other compounds in the everclear that should probably not be heated up and inhaled... These sugars may also be the culprit of your 'residue on the ceramic' problem.

Just my

thanks for the reply, but its my understanding that there are no sugars in EC. its essentially 190 proof ethanol alcohol. after distillation there are zero sugars left in EC. should only be 95% alcohol and 5% water. nothing else.

its the lower proof alcohols that would be leaving residual sugars behind. stuff like vodka and rum should not be used. ethanol is totally good to go though.

 

[Bob Loblaw]

not to start an argument, but ethanol is sugar. just reallllly concentrated. to drink is safe, but at high temps alcohols can turn into sugars. this is true. however as to residue or pertaining to discussion, not really an issue.

 

[fake name]

thanks for the reply, but its my understanding that there are no sugars in EC. its essentially 190 proof ethanol alcohol. after distillation there are zero sugars left in EC. should only be 95% alcohol and 5% water. nothing else.

its the lower proof alcohols that would be leaving residual sugars behind. stuff like vodka and rum should not be used. ethanol is totally good to go though.

I have gone back and forth over this issue. I do believe you are right, but my concern is that it's 190 proof, not 191. The azeotrope is about 95.63% EtOH. So my remaining concern is that approx. 1 proof difference. I don't think thay would add the alcohol sweetners they do in most all other drinks because it is going to be 'harsh' either way, but I do not understand the listing at 190 proof. Though, perhaps it is a statistical control, the real proof is somewhere between 190 and 192? This I really don't know, if anyone has any insight I would truly appreciate it.

 

[OF]

This I really don't know, if anyone has any insight I would truly appreciate it.

All "distilled spirits" contain no sugars (as they are commonly defined). They start out as a mix of sugars and starches (and typically enzymes to convert the latter to the former) in water which yeast converts to lovely ethanol and CO2 (which bubbles out). When the sugars are exhausted (or alcohol content reaches 'the low teens' which kills off the yeast) the fermentation stops. In the still the alcohol and some of the water 'come across' along with some minor similar volatile chemicals that transfer some taste (like the 'smokey' taste from drying the mash (sprouted grain) over peat fires making scotch). Successive passes give more alcohol and less water. The sugars (such as they are) are left behind in the pot as the vapor is extracted, much like we vape off THC and leave the junk behind.

So "grain neutral spirits" are basically all alcohol and water, typically about 75% or so. It gets a little crazy with 'barrel aged' hooch since the wood of the barrel is intentionally charred to provide sugars and charcoal to help the aging. Everclear, of course, doesn't see wood. Likewise, cordials (like schnapps, Southern Comfort and so on) have sugar added for taste, but that too is a different matter.

The proof of this is you can evaporate a glass of EC to dryness and have no sugar or anything else left behind once the alcohol and water are gone.

No sugar or other issues in Everclear I know of. It's basically lab alcohol with a liquor stamp. Most importantly to us is the idea that heat will drive out the tiny bit of alcohol remaining even before the vapor (it boils off a little under the water). As those of us who are fond of taking our Brandy neat in snifters know, there's nothing at all wrong with breathing in alcohol fumes.....in fact.....

OF

 

[fake name]

Thanks OF! My main concern was of the possibility of glycerin being added in small amounts, like with vodka, after the distillation.

 

[OF]

Thanks OF! My main concern was of the possibility of glycerin being added in small amounts, like with vodka, after the distillation.

You're welcome. Real easy to test, evaporate some to dryness and see what you end up with?

OF

 

[fake name]

You're welcome. Real easy to test, evaporate some to dryness and see what you end up with?

OF

This is a very common test in the extract community, it is usually reffered to as the 'mirror test' (ime) since that is the preffered object to do as much upon. In my state the liquor stores can not sell EC, if they did I would have already done as much. But now that I know it's all good I will try to get my mitts on some. For drinking, of course...

 

[OF]

This is a very common test in the extract community, it is usually reffered to as the 'mirror test' (ime) since that is the preffered object to do as much upon. In my state the liquor stores can not sell EC, if they did I would have already done as much. But now that I know it's all good I will try to get my mitts on some. For drinking, of course...

And a good test it is. A similar test is the 'dew point' test for water content in gas. Water is condensed on a chilled polished plate so it's easy to see tiny amounts.

In chemistry it's typically done in a 'watch glass' a five or 6 inch glass round bottom dish like a crystal from Paul Bunion's pocket watch. As the material evaporates down it collects at the bottom so it's easier to see. I'd do a modified version here, use a shot glass so the last drop would end up at the center of the bottom?

OF

 

[StickyShisha2]

The purity of rectified spirit has a practical limit of 95.6% ABV (191.2 US proof)
when produced using conventional distillation processes,
because a mixture of ethanol and water becomes an azeotrope at this concentration.

available at the store next to my local head shop.

i clean my dart (core piece and loader) with a half a shot of spirytus, then spike my hot chocolate.

 

[OF]

The purity of rectified spirit has a practical limit of 95.6% ABV (191.2 US proof)
when produced using conventional distillation processes,
because a mixture of ethanol and water becomes an azeotrope at this concentration.

Yup, them's the rules. If you want absolute alcohol you need to dry it (typically done with copper sulfate or sulfuric acid......). How scary is that?

One of the first 'inside lessons' one gets in a bio lab.....if you're going to sweeten up your coffee, use the 90 or 70%, not the absolute.

Years ago I did some work in Saudi Arabia (dry country) so we built a still. Go figure. Just like on MASH, only in stainless and water cooled. We 'quad rectified' (four passes). You'd put a tablespoon or two in a glass of soft drink, scary stuff. We had no way to test concentration (math said we hit 90% in the third pass) but ice cubes would sink in it from the 3rd and 4th stage....can't do that with 151 proof Bacardi. Chinese sugar to hangovers....ain't science grand?

Also stay well clear of 'denatured' ('methylated spirits' in the UK), they put just enough of that wood alkie (methanol) in it to really mess you up...... Probably OK for cleaning and oil extraction if you're really really good at drying (purging) afterwards. I'd still stay clear of it, it's been intentionally poisoned with something very close to ethanol (and therefore near impossible to get out).

OF

 

[fake name]

Also stay well clear of 'denatured' ('methylated spirits' in the UK), they put just enough of that wood alkie (methanol) in it to really mess you up...... Probably OK for cleaning and oil extraction if you're really really good at drying (purging) afterward

Risk vs reward I'd advise people to avoid denatured ethanol as well as straight methanol as a solvent for errling. Some people are great at purging, a lot of people think they're great at it. It doesn't add much over Iso (there are some amazing Iso techs out there) except for some flavor grabbed and should only lengthen the purge process for safety reasons.

Also, if you underpurge, the whole intensely poisonous thing...

 

[havealight101]

Off topic, but since were here...
After my excursion in honey land, I really believe the cleanest stuff most people can get/create without crazy lab stuff(tetra/co2) would be a quality bho that is dissolved in ethanol(95%), winterized, filtered etc... Some would call it an Absolute Amber.
Side by side foil tests confirmed this. Wax/bidders just scream impurities to me. I'm no expert, but that's my vote.

 

[Young Stef]

I own the revolution lv and i just recently purchased trippy stix trippy chamber, the chamber is hands down a WONDER i will be strictly using trippy chambers for my full melt vaporizing WORKS AT EXTRMEMLY LOW TEMPS LIKE 3.0V!!!! FITS ALL 510 DEVICES

 

[OF]

I own the revolution lv and i just recently purchased trippy stix trippy chamber, the chamber is hands down a WONDER i will be strictly using trippy chambers for my full melt vaporizing WORKS AT EXTRMEMLY LOW TEMPS LIKE 3.0V!!!! FITS ALL 510 DEVICES

Howdy, and welcome to the Forums.

While I'm very happy you're happy, you're probably spreading that on the wrong thread. This is reserved for discussions of the Revolution, the correct forum is currently on the second page:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-trippy-stix.4968/

It's also worth mentioning that posting the same basic message on different Forums here is frowned on, posting it on the G Pen Forum is probably not right either.

I hope your unit continues to perform well for you. IIRC that has been a problem for some owners in the past?

OF