You're very welcome, glad to help. Sounds to me like you've thought it through very well and have a long range plan to work on, one I'm sure you'll be happy with. It really is first rate gear. The kind of stuff that just feels 'done right' in the hand.
Remember when you order the LV DART and batteries that you'll also need a different charger for them. That charger, WF-188 will also do the 3.0 Volt LiPO4s that drive the T1 (though that charger only does them), you might want to substitute chargers right off? That is I'd ask them to take the '3.0 Volt only' charger out and substitute the WF-188 in anticipation of LV duty.
Happy Fourth.
OF
You can, yes. But if you're like me, you probably won't.Hey guys- if I already have a T1 and Revolution conversion kit, can I get away with just buying the $59.99 Evolution cartridge?
What do you mean, Stu?You can, yes. But if you're like me, you probably won't.
Do they carry the 17670 battery or do u have to purchase some where else and should I get a protected battery or unprotected
What setup do you currently have with your TV
I mean it will work, yes. But I always end up buying more stuff. I like cool stuff.
Yes, TV offers it, although sometimes it's not on the site if they don't have sufficient stock to ship to order. I bought my spares at:
http://www.lighthound.com/AW-17670-Protected-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery_p_101.html
This is a pretty unique size, produced originally for 'two 123 cell' high performance flashlights as I understand. Since TV uses RCR123As (same size) it fits here automatically. It is a protected Li-ion cell as all such need to be in this sort of service. IMR chemistry alone can survive without protection, Li-ion cells will be destroyed by the first deep discharge without the protection.
I currently own a T1 in SV configuration (of course....), but my other 'battery' (really a power supply, the battery is the bit inside...) is set up as LV with one of my 17670 as my DART is LV. It started life as a SV Revolution but I changed it over for testing LV Revolutions and 'adopted' LV DART and Evolutions as they became available. Since I like both the latter products, I suspect it'll stay LV.
OF
Pretty much sounds like the setup I want, can't wait
I found this Ultrafire battery says its 1800 mah compared to 1600 mah that the battery you posted has, what's the difference is one better than the other or are they pretty much the same
http://www.batteryjunction.com/protected-17670.html
just checked the site too, and only found SV Evo kits, but there was a stand alone Evo LV top portion available. Not sure what happened to the LV Evo Kits...
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When it gets to that point, switch out the batteries. Whether they need it or not as that kind of temperature deteriorates the performance down the road. I like ending the session with topped up batteries anyway as it ensures me the load is finished.I have been on a great roll with my stock configuration (sleeve on) 6v evo, having gone through some ups and downs along the way. Thought I would "get it" 100% on the first or second tries since I have experience, but over time realized it needs to get really hot to perform the best. At that point you can get rips to rival desktop vapes; very impressive for such a small package. The near-fatal flaw is in the temperature of the unit as felt in the hand, especially on the thumb which is mainly used to keep it on. At its best hitting I am literally moving it around my hand continuously, sometimes holding it with my fingernails, to avoid burning myself. I don't have "working man's hands" but they're not smooth either. I would really appreciate an "official" fix, or even a third party solution. Anyone have a sewing kit? Maybe I'll ask my sister. Leather would probably work well right?
I appreciate your advice, but it is a dangerous endeavor changing batteries when it is at optimal operating temp (IMO). I will experiment with my first two sets of batteries and see if they deteriorate faster than expected, as well as the heat core. For experimentation purposes I would sacrifice these few parts, because I found this to be my favorite way to operate it. I am sure my batts still have some charge left in them, i just like to get through the load without leaving much green . And without the heat, the thumb slippage would not be as extreme, though I will start crafting my own solution in the mean time.When it gets to that point, switch out the batteries. Whether they need it or not as that kind of temperature deteriorates the performance down the road. I like ending the session with topped up batteries anyway as it ensures me the load is finished.
Also, most of us use self sticking material of some kind for helping with the slider slipping. Whether it be anti skid tape to velcro.
Pipes
One question though I cannot damage it from over heating at most I can see holding it down for more then 60 seconds intervals anyways,and that's way over estimating the time the on position is actually down.
They're pretty close in taste and vapor production, but my T1 works significantly faster than my SV Evo, and requires a slightly different methodology for best use. One doesn't work better than the other, just differently.How is the SV EVO compared to T1 in taste and in vapor production
I sent an email last night to TV with a request to make a "universal extender/adapter" that would act as a "middle man" so that all mouthpieces could be used with all devices, as well as providing some cooling distance...The Evo in its standard configuration doesn't work well for a few of us (me included), requiring one to put the mouthpiece directly into the top of the Evo core, and either not using the delrin insulating sleeve (which makes it all to easy to burn yourself), or modifying the core by cutting off the top and the built in UFO.