Can I ask you OF, for your LV version of the EVO, do you keep it turned on for your entire bowl? Or do you let it cool for a few seconds after the first few slow hits?
(Maybe my needing to keep it on all the time is a symptom of hitting the current limit?)
I run it flat out 25 maybe 30 seconds at a shot for a hit. Then I let it coast until the next. My VV supply doesn't even light up with that heavy a load. My V2 lights and heats a bit, but doesn't make it glow or get really hot (got to get in there and measure what's going on...). My new Persei (thanks again G...) does a bang up job of driving it of course (got to put testing it against the TV supply some day on the list too). I figure I have something between 25 and about 50% duty cycle?
I also wouldn't worry about problems happening as the battery weakens. That can happen sometimes in boost converters but generally as the battery fails and voltage drops, current tracks it down pulling power levels with it and everything goes toward cold and dark. In the end, the batteries internal protection (or 'bombproof chemistry like in IMR) saves the day until a charge sets it right again.
In general, current limits are made to work very fast. The idea is a graceful shutdown before smoke and flames. Usually this is measured in the mili second range (thousandths of a second). It doesn't work well if the wiring goes before the fuse does, right?
J
I am also starting to believe "any 3.7 w/o cut off" Needs to be changed. My EGO batt is questionable after 30 sec push(IIRC, tim said you would just have to cycle your buttons w/cut off), clicker killed a DA, IIRC there was 1 more already. Can we get some "specs" that are needed to run the LV EVO @ full power.
I've already posted the specs needed to drive it, I think? Glad to do it again for drill. It's a nominal 20 Watt device (should have some margins since one 5 or 10% higher or lower than average is probably within the specifications of the device? So maybe it could be 21 or 22 Watts? Anyway, 20 Watts divided by 3.7 Volts gives us a nominal 5.4 Amps. Understand we're using nominal values, not actuals. In the real world it will draw more power at 4.0 Volts than 3.7 as this suggests, but for that point (3.7 Volts and 20 Watts) the current is 5.4 Amps. For Standard Voltage we have the same 20 Watts divided by 6.0 this time, 3.3 Amps.
So there you have what you always wanted, true enlightenment. Well at least a straight answer?
3.3 Amps at 6.0 Volts for Standard, 5.4 at 3.7 for the LV.
I know it sounds cold and all, but I think the advice is valid? A 3.7 Volt battery without protection (or a hight enough limit) is needed to light this guy up. If the battery can't take the gaff, IMO that's a horse on their team, overloads happen and you should have a better plan than blowing up. I bet TV might even share that view...but at least I bet they'll gladly sell you a power supply that won't cause you grief.....
OF