Discontinued Thermovape Cera

Chill Dude

Well-Known Member
Okay, so my Cera EO is scheduled to arrive later today. I've read through a lot of the thread, so I feel I have a pretty good grasp on how to get started. However, I'm still a little confused on how to properly load and prime Cera. I have some real gooey Nectar that I want to load it with. What do you guys suggest with product of that consistency? Do you just use a dab tool and use the heat button to get it to slide off your dab tool into the ceramic pad? Do you try to load the full half gram at one time, or do you load a smaller amount and press the heat botton until it absorbs and then add some more?

I know all vapes have a little bit of a learning curve, but it would be nice to get off to a good start. Can someone walk me through the steps of how to properly load, prime and take your first hits? Thanks guys...
 
Chill Dude,

Mynameismud

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Okay, so my Cera EO is scheduled to arrive later today. I've read through a lot of the thread, so I feel I have a pretty good grasp on how to get started. However, I'm still a little confused on how to properly load and prime Cera. I have some real gooey Nectar that I want to load it with. What do you guys suggest with product of that consistency? Do you just use a dab tool and use the heat button to get it to slide off your dab tool into the ceramic pad? Do you try to load the full half gram at one time, or do you load a smaller amount and press the heat botton until it absorbs and then add some more?

I know all vapes have a little bit of a learning curve, but it would be nice to get off to a good start. Can someone walk me through the steps of how to properly load, prime and take your first hits? Thanks guys...
First, i always preheat the EO for 10-15 seconds before i attempt to load anything.

then,
If its gooey/liquidy i take it onto a dabber and use a lighter to melt it off onto the ceramic. Then pulse the button at 5-10 second intervals until it all melts down (usually after 1-3 pulses).

For wax/shatter i still preheat, then just place it directly on the ceramic. Pulse the button a few times and then use a hot dabber to help it melt in and/or unscrew the EO and blow into it if it hasnt melted down all the way.

Both ways i usually do about .2 at a time until i have about .6 in there.
 

Chill Dude

Well-Known Member
Thanks Mud, I will follow your instructions....

Why do you use a lighter with the gooey stuff? Can't you just use your dab tool and pulse the heater to melt it into the ceramic pad? Also, after you have it loaded and are ready for an oil session, what's the best technique? 5 second heat up time 20 second long slow draw with power button pressed then release button. Does that sound about right? Is it ever necessary to use a pulse technique, or do you just hold the button and rip away?

What's the deal with priming anyway? According to the Cera Quick start instructions "it will take 20 to 50 inhalations until the heating wire is broken in" I'm not sure what that means. Does it mean you won't get very good vapor production your first couple of sessions? IDK????
 
Chill Dude,
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YeeeBuddy

Well-Known Member
Thanks Mud, I will follow your instructions....

Why do you use a lighter with the gooey stuff? Can't you just use your dab tool and pulse the heater to melt it into the ceramic pad? Also, after you have it loaded and are ready for an oil session, what's the best technique? 5 second heat up time 20 second long slow draw with power button pressed then release button. Does that sound about right? Is it ever necessary to use a pulse technique, or do you just hold the button and rip away?

What's the deal with priming anyway? According to the Cera Quick start instructions "it will take 20 to 50 inhalations until the heating wire is broken in" I'm not sure what that means. Does it mean you won't get very good vapor production your first couple of sessions? IDK????

I think he is saying use a lighter to heat up the middle of your dab tool and the stuff should slide right off onto the ceramic top plate. Its just alot easier/less messy then sticking your dab tool in their and using the heat from the cera to melt it off the dab tool. For technique i just hold the button and hit it lol its pretty fool proof, when its decently loaded i find the warmup time is almost non existent, when its getting low it might take a little longer. Also i dont know about the heating wire having to be broken in I got clouds from day one I wouldn't worry about that too much. Just remember it takes a decent amount when loading a virgin EO core, i would say at least .5-.7, but after that i usually load .2-.3 at a time and get lots of huge hits before having to reload.
 

Tom Funk

Well-Known Member
Thanks Mud, I will follow your instructions....

Why do you use a lighter with the gooey stuff? Can't you just use your dab tool and pulse the heater to melt it into the ceramic pad? Also, after you have it loaded and are ready for an oil session, what's the best technique? 5 second heat up time 20 second long slow draw with power button pressed then release button. Does that sound about right? Is it ever necessary to use a pulse technique, or do you just hold the button and rip away?

What's the deal with priming anyway? According to the Cera Quick start instructions "it will take 20 to 50 inhalations until the heating wire is broken in" I'm not sure what that means. Does it mean you won't get very good vapor production your first couple of sessions? IDK????

I believe that the heater wire produces a smell and taste for the first 20-50 inhalations, until it oxidises. After this you will only taste your oil. As YeeeBuddy has indicated, you should get clouds from day one.

TF
 

darkrom

Great Scott!
Why not at least try a bit of foil in place of the switch before sending it in at least you can isolate one possible issue?

I'm actually just sending the whole unit in, handle and cart. I'd rather take my time and have it back in its full glory. I'll just take an oil break for now anyway, since the cera is the only way I consume my oil. Anything else feels like a waste.
 

Chill Dude

Well-Known Member
Did you guys do any type of cleaning or burn off before use of a new unit, or is it basically good to go out of the box?
 
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Tom Funk

Well-Known Member
Did you guys do any type of cleaning or burn off before use of a new unit, or is it basically good to go out of the box?

I ran my LL core until it stopped producing any odour before I put any herb in it. I only did this because I had no herb when my Cera arrived though. I don't believe that there are any health concerns. If you want the cleanest taste from the word go, perhaps run it a bit before using it. If you are not that fussy, just go for it.

TF
 
Tom Funk,

Chill Dude

Well-Known Member
So my Cera EO arrived today and I just got through using it for the first time! First impressions:

The unit came well packaged with all components properly protected. As for size, it was I expected, not extremely stealth, but then not too big for my uses. It was a little heavier than I expected, but in kind of like the solid well built feel. I mean,,I have a pinnacle and it's super light, but it feels like a cheap piece of plastic in my hand. The Cera is one solid unit and you can defiantly see and feel the quality.

Much to my surprise, Cera was actually really easy to load, and not too messy. Once heated a little the oil just sank right into the ceramic pad with just a little oil stuck to the walls. So I held the switch down for about 5 seconds and took a long slow 15 second inhale. Flavor was very pure and fresh and I blew out a large cloud of tasty goodness. I took two more similar hits and I
was pleasantly medicated. So far I love this fucking thing!!!

Questions:

Can you set Cera down sideways on a table in between hits? How about storing it sideways? I guess I'm too freaked out to try, I just visualize oil leaking out.. Can that happen or is sideways okay?

Btw, I used the smooth flow tip and it worked great. I just used it dry though. Are you supposed to dip this thing in water to get the cooling effect? IDK, but my hits were smooth and tasty w/o water...

To clean, can you do an ISO soak with the ceramic MP as well as the smooth flow? The way I understand it you can ISO soak all components except the core. Is that right?

I know I've only used Cera one time, but so far I'm really loving this thing!!

Thanks to Thermovape for making such a solid product, and thanks to the FC community that contributed on this thread. A lot of really good information and feedback here......
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Can you set Cera down sideways on a table in between hits? How about storing it sideways?

Btw, I used the smooth flow tip and it worked great. I just used it dry though. Are you supposed to dip this thing in water to get the cooling effect?

To clean, can you do an ISO soak with the ceramic MP as well as the smooth flow? The way I understand it you can ISO soak all components except the core. Is that right?

I agree, it's a dandy bit of kit as the Brits might say. Cool stuff. To your questions:

Yes, provided it's not overfilled (more than say 3/4 of a gram??) you'll be fine. I keep mine on it's side in a foam lined case, sometimes a couple of loaded cores even, no problems to date.

Normally you rinse or soak the SF then shake out what comes and use it wet. I can be a big help sometimes by putting a surprisingly small amount of water into the vapor. I find I need to dip and shake it' every five or six hits for maximum effect.

No, ISO soaking or boiling is fine for the core, most guys just wipe down the MP (it's designed to make this easy) and poke a pipe cleaner through the holes when they get fouled. My advice is if you soak in ISO boil it in water for 5 or so minutes or so afterwards to drive the ISO out then fully dry the core before firing it up.

It's a personal call about cleaning, and depends a LOT on the quality of your oil. Every time you clean you loose about .2 grams but if you let it go too long the taste suffers and it gets harder and harder to keep it clean.

Probably the best idea at the start is to learn to 'read' the surface of the ceramic plate for clues about how much is loaded. Most concentrates look 'wet' when loaded right, but dry when running low. If you keep pushing as it runs low you're going to burn the remaining oils so keep an eye on it until it becomes second nature. You want to reload at or before .2 grams above new weight and load to (and reload to) half a gram over new. That is top up about a third of a gram at a time. This seems to keep high production with little risk of flooding or leaks.

Also remember to always question the battery charge and not just automatically add more oil if production tapers off. Test a fresh battery, if production increases, keep it in and vape on. If it stays low, swap back and load up. Automatically loading more without checking the plate condition and battery charge will sooner or later leave you with a flooded Cera that still has a dead battery.

Enjoy it, it's a great one IMO.

OF
 

Chill Dude

Well-Known Member
Thanks OF, I really appreciate all the pointers, especially the reload information. I wouldn't want to run the oil too low so it would actually burn. It seems if you can keep the oil at an optimum level and use a well charged battery, performance and flavor should be great..

When you say "most guys just wipe down the mp", are you saying it's okay to use ISO to wipe down mp and the smooth flow as long as you don't soak it in ISO? Or should I only use water?

Also, when it's time to ISO and boil the core, how long does it typically take to dry all the moisture so you can fire it up again??
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
When you say "most guys just wipe down the mp", are you saying it's okay to use ISO to wipe down mp and the smooth flow as long as you don't soak it in ISO? Or should I only use water?

Also, when it's time to ISO and boil the core, how long does it typically take to dry all the moisture so you can fire it up again??

First off, you're welcome.

You can soak it too, if you want, but it's not needed. Most of the surfaces are flat and easily wipe clean when warm. I like using cotton cloth patches for this, but paper towels also work fine. I also have a small spray bottle of ISO, for tough cases I lightly spray the wipe (not the part) sometimes. This makes the very thin ISO film evaporate quickly. Water is a bad idea, oil and water not mixing and all.

When I break down for a 'boil and soak' I like to boil first (seems to get the most junk out fastest), then soak and boil again to replace the ISO with water. Key to short drying times is to drain and shake out as much water as possible when it's hot I think. Drain the water quickly, fish out the core(s) and drain on a towel face down for a few minutes then pick up the still hot part in the towel and shake out any water I can. Then let it air dry on it's side (so air can circulate). Some guys use toaster ovens set at 200 or so F, I find just leaving it out overnight does fine. Listen for any noise (hisses, sizzles or pops) from the core when you power up. If you hear anything shut down and dry some more. It's at that point that guys apparently get water trapped in the wrong spot and the heater flashes it to seem breaking stuff. By cleaning at the end of the day and letting it dry overnight (I put in on the top of the router usually, which is a little warm) removes the issue.

Some guys like to reclaim the oil from the ISO, I don't do that, so I boil first. If you want to reclaim then start with an ISO soak in the 'dirty ISO' you save until it's collected enough reclaim to make boiling off the solvent worth while.

Best wishes.

OF
 

Mynameismud

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
@Chill Dude

With the smooth flow, depending on how long you use it for i would recommend a soak or boil. I had a good 0.2 of oil hidden and kind of clogging the inside of my smoothflow after a few months of use without soaking it...

As for drying it, i just cleaned mine. After i felt it was clean i shook ita nd blew through both ends to get as most of the moisture out as possible. Put in oven set at 200 for 10-15 minutes. And then did about 2-3 20/20/20 burns and finally no more sizzle
 

Chill Dude

Well-Known Member
@Chill Dude

With the smooth flow, depending on how long you use it for i would recommend a soak or boil. I had a good 0.2 of oil hidden and kind of clogging the inside of my smoothflow after a few months of use without soaking it..

Wow Mud, .2 g of oil, that's a lot. Was it easy to clean with an ISO soak? After ISO, do you just rinse it with water then youi're good to go?
 
Chill Dude,

Mynameismud

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Wow Mud, .2 g of oil, that's a lot. Was it easy to clean with an ISO soak? After ISO, do you just rinse it with water then youi're good to go?
I exaggerated. I didnt actually weigh it but it was definitely about 0.1 of oil that came out of the mouthpiece. I noticed something was clogged and my cart hit fine with the ceramic mouthpiece.
Which is how i realized there was some oil in there. Couldnt really tell by looking through the mouthpiece though.

Anyway, i just iso soaked it with the cera cart and then threw it in boiling water with the cartridge for about 5 mins. No leftover iso or bad taste after that....
 

VapoRoor

DAB-a-DAB I'll dooooo
I tried using my Cera with my buddies glass. It was a 14mm joint and when I put the ceras mp in the glass. I couldnt draw air through it. So I was wondering how you guys use your Cera & glass?
I tried putting on the thermal cap as well. no draw
 
VapoRoor,

Czechyourhead

Well-Known Member
Or packed too tight? Everytime I've encountered this problem, it was my over-zealous bubble-to- flower ratio....
 
Czechyourhead,

VapoRoor

DAB-a-DAB I'll dooooo
I was able to draw air regularly
This piece was about 5 or 6 inches
Is there a certain requirement for the Glass size?
 
VapoRoor,

tedthehed

Member
...Hi,

just joined to post this. the button issue is crazy. you dont need to push it that hard!
the slightest amount of button travel turns mine on. easy.
that said, yes I'd prefer a micro switch on the side., right in one of the holes
that are there for the "travel protector rod" formerly "on-off switch" ...ok?

2. hard or no draw: remove the ceramic mouthpiece, attach the non moisturizing straight plastic straw thing,with the larger hole,
and suck hard, this often clears a balky clog for me, then switch to bulbous ceramic or other mouth piece...
 

Chill Dude

Well-Known Member
Got my Cera EO last week and I totally love it so far! Super easy to load and use and it's an absolute cloud producing powerhouse. The taste is so pure and smooth that I want to keep hitting it, but I soon find out I have to stop LOL.

First off, I was wondering if any of you guys purchased more than one EO carts? For example one for Pure Gold or Organa Labs Honey Oil, and one for shatter,wax and sticky icky nectar. Also, when it's time to reload, what's the effect of loading a different concentrate on top of .2g still remaining in the cart? The reason I ask is that right now I've loaded some OL honey oil and it's about time to reload. I want to load some high end nectar but am concerned that the taste won't be pure because I'm adding it on top of the honey oil. Will the product you load on top take over the flavor and potency, or do they both get mixed together like an oil salad?? IDK.
 
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