My Cera just came back from repair along with my HP EVO core! Tried the EVO core and noticed the bottom piece where the battery connects is off axis but she still lights up and hits, ill shoot Tim A message to see if its a matter or not...
I have plenty back ups but it was nice of em to charge it, A big thanks to everybody at TET!
Edit: Question to OF or other brains; So since I have My EO core nice and dry, is it safe and Ok to use some E-juice in her until I get oils for her? I would of course clean the unit once more before putting the oils in If I do use the e-juice first.
First off, save the bandwidth, being off center a bit is part of the design. You'll notice there's a flat bottom well the ceramic washer under the screw head sits in? There's a similar washer and well 1/4 inch or so in with a nut on the other side. This allows the center pin to 'float' as needed (otherwise something could break). The heater threads directly on the end of that screw (after the nut) so the heater maintains perfect contact as the screw moves. All part of a very well thought out design IMO.
On the matter of juice in an EO core I'd advise against it. It's my understanding it's all but impossible to ever get the last of anything out of the ceramic. At the bottom of every pore in it will be 'the wrong stuff' when you put oil in. There's just no flow to wash stuff out, it stays put. You can torch it, of course, but then you have burnt juice instead.
Your call, but I intend to use my cores a long time and demand a lot from them, no sense in handicapping them with contamination as I see it?
But I'm curious how many of you are having good success with running one battery through multiple bowls. I can get it through 2 full bowls tops. But I hear some of you are getting around 6.
Is there a secret I need to know? Is it maybe my technique that needs refining? Is it all about vapeing a full bowl in under 3 minutes? Do I need to let the second run at the battery preheat longer to get to work like the first run?
Curious to see how you guys are using these batteries.
I think if you change your perspective a bit it might make more sense. Try to think of it in terms of time, not sessions. And think of it's roots a bit to understand other guy's perspective? T1 had battery problems. In SV the ride was fast and short. If you dallied too much you ran out of battery before herb. SV gave us a big boost in battery life (close to double in some conditions), most of us learned to do a bowl easily but longed for more. DR was a regular leader in that campaign in fact.
Enter Cera. Improvements in insulation and design allowed lowering the power by about half. The ability to use higher performance batteries in the slightly larger package (along with better battery development of course) basically doubled it again. Where before 5 or 6 minutes of full on power was the norm, now we can get 30 to 45 depending. A nominal five fold improvement.
How you spend that time is, of course, your call. Six five minute sessions or two 15 minute ones are basically the same to the battery (actually cooling between sessions helps some).
For myself, I usually swap LL batteries when I notice they're getting a little slow (usually 2 or 3 sessions). When I think it might be getting depleted I swap in a fresh one, if it's a fair bit better I vape on and put the first in the recharge group. If, however, it's not a big improvement I put the original back and carry on. Having the spare handy to test lets you get the most from the charge IMO.
Wow, nice design.
Love show and tell.
Surprising the heat made it as far as the solder. Good thing to know for sure.
I made a similar unit with the same converter. However, never used as was for a different experiment.
(Basically an 18650 battery replacement)
Common ground is a large washer placed at the rear end. Voltage adjust from the side.
As for the power supply, I looked around and for the price the same type supply TET use to offer is the best price wise. I beleive OF has confirmed this model to work with Cera's offerings.? (Digi-Key still has them)
As well as the OKRs.
EDIT: almost forgot, OF, where did you get that large spring from? Something I've had an eye open for.
Fun stuff.
Always good to hear what you've been up to, Brother Pipes. Thanks for the compliment, but in fairness I'm not showing the first half dozen iterations, this is just the packaging part. Some of them were embarrassing (but informative).
We all know how you feel about 'show and tell'.....still got the raincoat and map to the Elementary Schools?
Sorry I wasn't clear enough, the nut that unsoldered itself was in the Cera cart adapter I made from a brass nut and hacked up e-cig fitting. It was just a way to connect the load, I wasn't watching it. The PA itself seems to be plenty cool and as you know has overtemp shutdown as back up. I don't think there's any danger there, but this has been a series of surprises, some small some not.
Funny how we both ended up grounding a washer, then again it's a pretty obvious way to do the job. The spring is from the drawers of springs at the local Ace Hardware store (common like that silly tire company up there.....), next time I'm in I'll try to check for a maker and part number, all I can tell you now is $1.15. FWIW I'm now using a straight cylindrical compression spring with less force (same source).
I'd also point out, it's a small world, I'm making a battery substitute for a 18650 too, right?
The wall wort from the T1 PA is OK, but just barely. And it has 'backward' polarity (center negative), not a problem to the original use, but it confuses the converter something awful. I think a better supply is a 12 Volt 3 Amp unit, something like:
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2099868_-1
I'm actually using this one, I had it left over from another project:
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_1952370_-1
There are lots of similar useful units out there of course but I wanted to stick with that power connector so common car cords would work.
It'll need a switch, of course, but I'm thinking of putting some logic in the tail cap (it's empty now) to allow a simple push button switch (no more grief finding a brute) to function as momentary or latching depending on desire, maybe with a time out built in. We were also spitballing about the accelerometers used in game controllers so if it stopped moving while on for say half a minute (?) it'd beep and give you 15 seconds to move or then it'd shut down?
Fun stuff indeed. Keeps you from playing with your toes.....
Regards,
OF
