Thermal Accumulator by phattpiggie

[General Disaster]

This is definitely a good starting point. Any tips for how to effectively dry burn?

For the regular use I think it's going to be a little trial and error until I figure it out!

Not sure what you mean by dry burn? You mean get it close to combusting?
If so, the method I've started with (above) takes it close, but not yet as close as I ideally want (softly softly catchee monkey! I'll get there!), but tends to be on the toastier side of toasty than not toasty (huh? wtf?). I partly got to this point by under heating, trying it a few pulls (first pull gives little when it's just getting to temp sometimes, can be deceptive, so a second pull helps to judge, while working these things out at least) then giving another 10 seconds and trying another pull, and keeping an eye on how long I'd applied heat over all. Then add those 'chunks' of heating time up, then trying that total for the next bowl (from room temp) - hence how I got the 50/60 second figure (for my lighter).

But the TA beta already had a big rep for being very forgiving, and most people saying they only combusted by really kicking shit out of the thing (metaphorically speaking, I hasten to add! ), taking it to it's limits pretty deliberately to see what they are.
If your olfactory senses are good, if you detect a slight burning taste, you can back off until it cools a little, then pull away again without that big burn up! I can't do this, I simply can't taste or smell that change! But I think most people can.

 

[Zombietaz]

Not sure what you mean by dry burn? You mean get it close to combusting?
If so, the method I've started with (above) takes it close, but not yet as close as I ideally want (softly softly catchee monkey! I'll get there!), but tends to be on the toastier side of toasty than not toasty (huh? wtf?). I partly got to this point by under heating, trying it a few pulls (first pull gives little when it's just getting to temp sometimes, can be deceptive, so a second pull helps to judge, while working these things out at least) then giving another 10 seconds and trying another pull, and keeping an eye on how long I'd applied heat over all. Then add those 'chunks' of heating time up, then trying that total for the next bowl (from room temp) - hence how I got the 50/60 second figure (for my lighter).

But the TA beta already had a big rep for being very forgiving, and most people saying they only combusted by really kicking shit out of the thing (metaphorically speaking, I hasten to add! ), taking it to it's limits pretty deliberately to see what they are.
If your olfactory senses are good, if you detect a slight burning taste, you can back off until it cools a little, then pull away again without that big burn up! I can't do this, I simply can't taste or smell that change! But I think most people can.

I'm sorry, I should have been more clear! I meant the "burn off" as mentioned on the listing for the item on vgoodiez. I assumed it was to burn off any residual chemicals from the manufacturing process, but it's prob a good idea to practice on an empty device to get the idea of temperatures and such. Appreciate the tips and your willingness to offer advice, I'll definitely be asking a lot of questions as I get the hang of it!

 

[General Disaster]

If the TA is made of titanium it might be an alloy with a bit of iron in it to make it work with induction heaters?
I feel like if there was an induction sleeve in there it'd be advertised because it sounds like a lot of extra manufacturing effort to not show off.

Unless PP doesn't like showing off?
I honestly don't know, I can work out what I may have first tried, but I'm not very practical, so all those problems that make designs have to change, I'm less familiar with. My guess would be that if there's a standard grade of Ti alloy that has enough steel (or whatever) in it to induct, then PP may have deliberately selected that, but if that's not a industry already, it seems unlikely he'd have the resources to create an alloy himself (in a cost effective fashion).
PP says: "All titanium parts are grade 2."
I don't know metal engineering much, but I have a suspicion that's fairly pure Ti, or at least not with enough magnetic metal to induct effectively.
But a quick search shows:

"Titanium Grade 2
Commercially pure titanium grade 2 is very similar to grade 1, but it has higher strength than grade 1 and excellent cold forming properties. It provides excellent welding properties and has excellent resistance to oxidation and corrosion. This grade of titanium is the most common grade of the commercially pure titanium industry."

If you're interested, here's a source that seems reasonable to rely on: https://material-properties.org/what-is-titanium-grade-2-definition/

 

[BreadStick]

Unless PP doesn't like showing off?
I honestly don't know, I can work out what I may have first tried, but I'm not very practical, so all those problems that make designs have to change, I'm less familiar with. My guess would be that if there's a standard grade of Ti alloy that has enough steel (or whatever) in it to induct, then PP may have deliberately selected that, but if that's not a industry already, it seems unlikely he'd have the resources to create an alloy himself (in a cost effective fashion).
PP says: "All titanium parts are grade 2."
I don't know metal engineering much, but I have a suspicion that's fairly pure Ti, or at least not with enough magnetic metal to induct effectively.
But a quick search shows:

"Titanium Grade 2
Commercially pure titanium grade 2 is very similar to grade 1, but it has higher strength than grade 1 and excellent cold forming properties. It provides excellent welding properties and has excellent resistance to oxidation and corrosion. This grade of titanium is the most common grade of the commercially pure titanium industry."

If you're interested, here's a source that seems reasonable to rely on: https://material-properties.org/what-is-titanium-grade-2-definition/

Maybe, if so he's much more humble than me! I know if I went to that effort it'd be broadcasted everywhere to try get people to buy my shit

I couldn't find the titanium PP used but I read the same thing that grade 2 is the meant to be the purest available but my source was Wikipedia

Here's a somewhat interesting article I found about heating non ferrous metals mainly titanium via induction. Don't think the used an ispire wand for their experiments though

 

[sedentree]

Nice one! Well done. Can you describe the positioning of the head in the Wand? I was trying 590℉ before giving up, and going well past the cut off by switching to manual. It's sounding more and more like a positioning issue for me, despite my best efforts (I am green on IH's, so that's my excuse! )?

If we say the buttons are the front of the Wand, I insert it from the back. I would say the top of the heater is maybe 0.5 - 1cm out of the front of the Wand, if that.

Edit, fully open vents at the mo (TA3)

 

[General Disaster]

I'm sorry, I should have been more clear! I meant the "burn off" as mentioned on the listing for the item on vgoodiez. I assumed it was to burn off any residual chemicals from the manufacturing process, but it's prob a good idea to practice on an empty device to get the idea of temperatures and such. Appreciate the tips and your willingness to offer advice, I'll definitely be asking a lot of questions as I get the hang of it!

Oh! Sorry, I should have worked that out! All I did was get it as hot as it was likely to get, gave it a good few minutes, and gently blew out through the stem to shift any mineral oil vapour. I can say I hugely heated it, probably no more than an average hit temp at most. Detected little if anything smell wise on doing that (given I have very poor smell (I ought to change my socks more!)) and certainly nothing when using first time.

I think it's not a major thing, only minor traces (in mine anyway) but best to be safe than sorry. I spoke with him about this, and it seems using iso doesn't shift non-polar hydrocarbons so well, but options are limited without some sort of draw back, so he chose to just tell customers to do the burn to be sure it's fully clean. They have all be gone through though, proper prepare etc. Seemed reasonable to me.

And you've given me an excuse to post a slightly less crap picture of my new TA, to show the heated area of the head:

Beauty-And-The-Beast hosted at ImgBB

Image Beauty-And-The-Beast hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

I call this "Beauty and the Beast"!

Maybe, if so he's much more humble than me! I know if I went to that effort it'd be broadcasted everywhere to try get people to buy my shit

I was being a wee bit disingenuous there! It's not impossible that he's found a clever original idea in making it work while not incurring high manufacturing costs, and would rather not give away hard thought out ideas and expensive experimentation to anyone else who fancies competing with a similar product. I'd guess the R&D these fellas do to make these things work so well, and have us all slavering at the mouth, isn't cheap or easy always?

Here's a somewhat interesting article I found about heating non ferrous metals mainly titanium via induction. Don't think the used an ispire wand for their experiments though

Interesting article, but what it basically seems to boil down to (from my take), is avoid trying to induct Ti alloys as a means of heating, unless you've little choice, since there are a lot of complex factors added to those of using a ferrous metal. I think this article was to do with industrial manufacture processes and how they effect the final product (the effect of altering the alloys internal structure seems to be an issue, changing it's properties, etc. The problems with uneven temp distribution too, and so on..., but too technical for my limited experience in that area to really understand that.

 

[Zombietaz]

Oh! Sorry, I should have worked that out! All I did was get it as hot as it was likely to get, gave it a good few minutes, and gently blew out through the stem to shift any mineral oil vapour. I can say I hugely heated it, probably no more than an average hit temp at most. Detected little if anything smell wise on doing that (given I have very poor smell (I ought to change my socks more!)) and certainly nothing when using first time.

I think it's not a major thing, only minor traces (in mine anyway) but best to be safe than sorry. I spoke with him about this, and it seems using iso doesn't shift non-polar hydrocarbons so well, but options are limited without some sort of draw back, so he chose to just tell customers to do the burn to be sure it's fully clean. They have all be gone through though, proper prepare etc. Seemed reasonable to me.

Oh perfect! Thank you for explaining

 

[General Disaster]

If we say the buttons are the front of the Wand, I insert it from the back. I would say the top of the heater is maybe 0.5 - 1cm out of the front of the Wand, if that.

Edit, fully open vents at the mo (TA3)

Ah! Interesting. I work from the other side, inserting it into the 'front' of the wand. I just had another try, but this time didn't go quite so deep into the coil*, by maybe 2 or 3mm, and this seems to have worked better, but still needed a little flame after running to timeout @ 590℉, but only 10 seconds maybe? Started to see the flame going yellow/orange where it hit the metal, stopped heating and drew on it. First couple were weak, but then it started to kick in and all that capacity began to pay dividends.
* Ha! I've just realised! I was going 'balls' deep into it! (double pun!)

So, I think in part I didn't quite have the right positioning, plus the wands not really powered for a TA, so struggles a little, but becoming more useable. But in addition, that last one was little spoiled by the bowl packing. The weed I put in was rather finely ground, more than I usually do it, and while some vapes seem to much prefer the weed well ground, the TA seems happier with it nice and course. That thought is also influenced seeing vids of the beta where some people are literally ripping a bit of sticky nug off, jamming it into the bowl, repeating another once or twice until they can fit any more, and the bugger still roasts it all the way through without missing a beat! So I need to play a bout a bit with that too.

 

[kimura]

I also received my TA3 and have used it a few times. I’m using some random accessories I have lying around to mate it to a j hook. J hook is my preferred method for nearly everything.

First impressions are quite good. Bowl is a little smaller than I thought, for some reason, which turns out to be fine. I’m using a crème brûlée torch and finding that there actually is a visual indicator that I’m up to temp - the heater starts to glow red. If I torch the far end of the heater to the point that it just starts to glow, I get a great hit. No charring (yet). Repeatable!

Thing actually seems to be a monster one hitter. it’s not a gradual process. Most of the goodies are vaporized in one huge cloud with one or two clean up hits. In that way it reminds me almost of a (smaller) supreme v3 hit? Massive vape signature. Works great with unground nugs too, like the supreme

It’s cool. Time to look for the cleanest way to mate to a j hook. Would welcome any suggestions. Thanks

 

[SlickHenry]

Would a glass dynavap WPA connect to a J hook or use a stem like a BB3?

 

[Shit Snacks]

Would a glass dynavap WPA connect to a J hook or use a stem like a BB3?

Yes that's what I was thinking would be a good idea to just grab a simple glass dyna WPA, my plan, after trying it with what I have

 

[General Disaster]

I also received my TA3 and have used it a few times. I’m using some random accessories I have lying around to mate it to a j hook. J hook is my preferred method for nearly everything.

First impressions are quite good. Bowl is a little smaller than I thought, for some reason, which turns out to be fine. I’m using a crème brûlée torch and finding that there actually is a visual indicator that I’m up to temp - the heater starts to glow red. If I torch the far end of the heater to the point that it just starts to glow, I get a great hit. No charring (yet). Repeatable!

Thing actually seems to be a monster one hitter. it’s not a gradual process. Most of the goodies are vaporized in one huge cloud with one or two clean up hits. In that way it reminds me almost of a (smaller) supreme v3 hit? Massive vape signature. Works great with unground nugs too, like the supreme

It’s cool. Time to look for the cleanest way to mate to a j hook. Would welcome any suggestions. Thanks

First off, the bowl, have you tried resetting it? It comes at about ½ to ⅔ size. If you gently but quite firmly push the dowel down on it, it should gradually slide further down, you can stop at any point, or continue until it stops, leaving a small gap beneath it and the bottom of the bowl (deliberate for air flow I suspect). This will up the size by about ⅓ roughly. It's quite deep like that!

On using the thing: The Further Adventures of GD! <dum dum duuuum!>
So, tried again, but this time just pulled some nice sticky bits off a nug and bunged em all in, lots of small match head sized lumps totally un shredded or anything. Filled the bowl, but not tightly packed, and pushed it down about 1mm so it didn't come loose. Good airflow.
Ran it again on 590℉ until cut-off, gave it about 15/20 secs on the flame until it was showing orange where touching the metal, and went for it, bloody excellent, best one so far! And this time the avb was really getting near perfect. Not back, but dark with almost black bits (the match head sized lumps were the darkest parts) and very evenly distributed. Nice!
In another hour or so, when I can get off the floor, I'll have another try! This is getting fun!

[not more!? does he ever shut up?? <sigh!>]
For anyone interested, the Revolve2 with wooden sleeve is doing admirably at cooling the TA. It's not up to literal back-to-backs (do you even need that with this thing?), but by taking the head off to cool immediately, it only takes a few minutes to cool down enough to re-use. It's struggling to shift the heat away, but it's doing an excellent job of grabbing all that heat out of the vapour. Absolutely no discomfort on that side, seems a nice match if glass isn't available or wanted, and extremely compact to carry like that.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I also received my TA3 and have used it a few times. I’m using some random accessories I have lying around to mate it to a j hook. J hook is my preferred method for nearly everything.

First impressions are quite good. Bowl is a little smaller than I thought, for some reason, which turns out to be fine. I’m using a crème brûlée torch and finding that there actually is a visual indicator that I’m up to temp - the heater starts to glow red. If I torch the far end of the heater to the point that it just starts to glow, I get a great hit. No charring (yet). Repeatable!

Thing actually seems to be a monster one hitter. it’s not a gradual process. Most of the goodies are vaporized in one huge cloud with one or two clean up hits. In that way it reminds me almost of a (smaller) supreme v3 hit? Massive vape signature. Works great with unground nugs too, like the supreme

It’s cool. Time to look for the cleanest way to mate to a j hook. Would welcome any suggestions. Thanks

Totally missed your post before lol Yeah I think a simple glass WPA shouldn't be too hard even if it needs to be custom-made? Also it sounds like you are heating it up to the higher end and hitting it sooner so that makes sense you can do a one-hitter really well that way! I'm curious how I will adapt to the differences from the OG with the TA-3 I am excited to use it that way, but also want to try to milk a puffing session of course

 

[coolbreeze]

Would a glass dynavap WPA connect to a J hook or use a stem like a BB3?

Yes that's what I was thinking would be a good idea to just grab a simple glass dyna WPA, my plan, after trying it with what I have

I tried it on 3 of mine but it was a little loose on each. Just in case, you may need some thicker o-rings. Works great on my metal-lined stems.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I tried it on 3 of mine but ti was a little loose on each. Just in case, you may need some thicker o-rings. Works great on my metal-lined stems.

Oh, damn lol I didn't buy or look for the extra o-ring pack when I ordered thinking I would float by foolishly probably haha oh well supposed to arrive on Monday, I'm not too worried since I have my OG olive wood WPA to use, although I'll have to use the old bowl then... VariaBowl I will try to fit a glass stem

 

[coolbreeze]

Oh, damn lol I didn't buy or look for the extra o-ring pack when I ordered thinking I would float by foolishly probably haha oh well supposed to arrive on Monday, I'm not too worried since I have my OG olive wood WPA to use, although I'll have to use the old bowl then... VariaBowl I will try to fit a glass stem

It does come with some extra o-rings, I bought replacement o-rings and they've included a larger size. I can check afterwhile. I tried a few more glass stems similar unfortunate results, but one worked!

 

[kimura]

I have an OG glass dv and the TA3 fits that perfectly. So I just used some silicon hose around the other end of the glass dv stem for a makeshift wpa to mate with my 14mm hook

I think I might try one of those glass ddave dv wand/wpa

 

[Smknbud]

Got my TA3 the other day along with the MagSink.

I’m using the Wand and at the moment all I plan on using with it. I’ve left it at the same 625F/330C as I do for the Tempest and Anvil. And yes, the insert that comes with the Tempest works, it just needs slight changes in position depending on if it’s the TA3, Tempest or Anvil. In the case with the TA3 I have it protruding by a few mm as suggested by PP. I’m pre-heating it for 15 seconds in manual mode and then until time out in auto mode. With a full bowl I get one super dense cloud reminiscent of the Anvil and then a medium hit then wispy hit or two and it’s spent. The AVB is uniform but not looking burnt as I prefer.

The TA3 sure has a strong ‘battery’ ……powerful heat matrix that’s for sure. I currently have it on a Simrell Vortex wood sleeve with the XL condenser. It works but I find myself drawing with caution since the vapor has a lot of heat to it. I wanted to try it with the larger wood stem I have but the stock O-rings are apparently too small and that includes my High Artisan wpa adapter. Ordered the O-ring kit today which has stock and oversize and the screen kit while I was at it.

I’ve been keeping an eye on and waiting for what seems to be a very long time to get a TA…..it was worth it. Nice work PP.

 

[coolbreeze]

Oh, damn lol I didn't buy or look for the extra o-ring pack when I ordered

I'm sorry, I've confused myself. I did in fact order the o-ring separately. "Replacement O-Rings for your Thermal Accumulator. Black is standard size and Grey is oversized for looser stems."

 

[Sativapo]

Got my TA3 the other day along with the MagSink.

I’m using the Wand and at the moment all I plan on using with it. I’ve left it at the same 625F/330C as I do for the Tempest and Anvil. And yes, the insert that comes with the Tempest works, it just needs slight changes in position depending on if it’s the TA3, Tempest or Anvil. In the case with the TA3 I have it protruding by a few mm as suggested by PP. I’m pre-heating it for 15 seconds in manual mode and then until time out in auto mode. With a full bowl I get one super dense cloud reminiscent of the Anvil and then a medium hit then wispy hit or two and it’s spent. The AVB is uniform but not looking burnt as I prefer.

The TA3 sure has a strong ‘battery’ ……powerful heat matrix that’s for sure. I currently have it on a Simrell Vortex wood sleeve with the XL condenser. It works but I find myself drawing with caution since the vapor has a lot of heat to it. I wanted to try it with the larger wood stem I have but the stock O-rings are apparently too small and that includes my High Artisan wpa adapter. Ordered the O-ring kit today which has stock and oversize and the screen kit while I was at it.

I’ve been keeping an eye on and waiting for what seems to be a very long time to get a TA…..it was worth it. Nice work PP.ī

Is that your abv, this clear ? If it is, then I would have to do 3 full max temp time offs in a row to get it where I like it with the same wand and technique...

 

[Smknbud]

Is that your abv, this clear ?

I save it.....it has a second life.

Edit: 30 second preheat.

 

[Alligator427]

I order mine. What's the best option to buy zirc balls in EU (3mm) ?
The best I find for the moment is vgoodiez, but shipping, VAT and custom ...

 

[General Disaster]

I order mine. What's the best option to buy zirc balls in EU (3mm) ?
The best I find for the moment is vgoodiez, but shipping, VAT and custom ...

Obviously I've no idea what you've tried (a beta maybe?) or what you've in mind (i.e. I'm not trying to patronise) but if not, maybe better to see how the boros work first before considering what to change to? Give better idea of what type and size of replacement to choose?

I'm in the UK, and if I search on "zirconium ceramic balls uk" I get dozens of different UK sites selling them, in fact the main issue is picking one that sells small amounts. Here's one example, but I'd imagine your own country or a neighbour will have something local to you?

Zirconium Oxide Balls - Zirconia Ceramic Loose Ball Bearings

simplybearings.co.uk

I suspect in general the differences in price you'll see from site to site may reflect quantity bought and quality of item.

 

[Alligator427]

Obviously I've no idea what you've tried (a beta maybe?) or what you've in mind (i.e. I'm not trying to patronise) but if not, maybe better to see how the boros work first before considering what to change to? Give better idea of what type and size of replacement to choose?

I'm in the UK, and if I search on "zirconium ceramic balls uk" I get dozens of different UK sites selling them, in fact the main issue is picking one that sells small amounts. Here's one example, but I'd imagine your own country or a neighbour will have something local to you?

Zirconium Oxide Balls - Zirconia Ceramic Loose Ball Bearings

simplybearings.co.uk

I suspect in general the differences in price you'll see from site to site may reflect quantity bought and quality of item.

The TA3 come with balls ?
Yes, there is options In UK I have seen, but order in UK from EU you will have custom and VAT to pay.

 

[General Disaster]

The TA3 come with balls ?
Yes, there is options In UK I have seen, but order in UK from EU you will have custom and VAT to pay.

Oh yes! All ready to stick on a stem and toke away (well, a bit of weed added helps too! )! You only need to give it a pre-heat with an empty bowl, to ensure no manufacturing oils left over from the cleaning process. Won't be much there (wasn't on mine but best to be safe than sorry), and only takes a minute or three.

You'd need to search local to yourself (or at least in EU) I guess, but I figured if I found plenty in the UK, there are likely some options for you in EU, and many are not vape-related suppliers, but more engineering/hobbyist suppliers. I've never used Alibaba but they seem a cheap supplier, do they deliver to you at a decent time frame? Could be worth looking?

P.S. we all have to pay the VAT, even (especially) in the UK!