I've used it both ways and there is not a noticeable difference between the vapor temperatures with and without the restricted backplate mod. The vapor is hot in both configurations......just more dense with the mod.
The amount of restriction is minimal and the restriction when testing the system empty (nested glass tubes and loaded bowl sitting on glassware by itself and outside of the Apollo unit) doesn't really change from when it is inserted into the Apollo.
I test it with the Solo tube loaded up, the bottom half of the herb chamber sitting around the Solo bowl and then the Solo tube nested in the Apollo tube and sitting on an 18mm male end - without even being inserted in the Apollo. I then pull through the glassware and the restriction is no different than when I sleeve that arrangement through the Apollo and then draw.
That is why I said earlier that with the Solo mod - I might try it now without the silicone blocking the backplate because I have introduced a restriction point further down the air path and removing the silicone might help with cooling the back end and hopefully wouldn't impact the performance that I've learned to expect and appreciate.
I actually unload the stem and the chamber by pulling it out of the end of the Apollo afterward - rather than tipping it out of the breech - since the bottom half of the herb chamber fits nicely around the Solo's glass bowl.
It wasn't the visible vapor that you may have been blowing off camera that let's me know that you weren't getting optimum performance from your Apollo. It was the amount of vapor that was visible in the chamber.
When the Apollo is working at optimum you literally can't see through the chamber at all due to the vapor density. Get a PZ1 driver and try the silicone mod.....with a stock herb chamber set up it is a must for best performance. If you have a Solo stem and some silicone tubing to make the modded bowl setup then a silicone blocking piece at the back plate might not be necessary.
That is the beauty of the Apollo - it is basically a very powerful halogen heat source and operates like a portable log but also with a more heat radiation coming from the bulb than with a log's SS heater - the rest is all about playing with the airflow of this heated air through your herbs by way of whatever mod that you choose that will restrict the vapor path at some point along the way.
If you don't have the materials available to make a glass stem mod (whether it be Solo stem, ENano stem/screen, 18mm glass or LSV wand (with Arizer elbow screens) - 14mm glass joint is too narrow) then the stock herb chamber still works very well when the backplate is sealed up to help restrict the airflow.
It's fun to experiment with ......ideally a thicker backplate with more surface area and a sliding piece to choose your airflow restriction would be the ultimate solution. But this solution may also be cost prohibitive to manufacture as I don't know what these additional manufacturing costs might be......and even in the absence of this "ultimate" solution.......the vape does perform extremely well when modded to your taste.
I highly recommend a glass bowl mod of some sort......perhaps even an LSV transfer wand would work well too? I was thinking of trying this for dry hits since it is such a long glass wand.....but the shipping ended up costing the same price as the wand itself. Also this vape was made to be run through water......I don't believe that the density of the vapor that it is capable of producing could be inhaled without the assistance of water cooling.
Here are a couple of videos where the stock herb chamber is used - I'm not sure whether this user "Pictures Of Pot" (YouTube/Instagram) has blocked the air screen on their backplate or not and perhaps they have also posted in this thread under a different FC name. If they have then perhaps they could let us know whether those videos were taken with or without the backplate being restricted.
However, I am getting even thicker clouds then what this video shows (through a larger glass chamber volume as well) when I want them with the Solo stem mod. If you aren't getting comparable results to the ones in these two videos then I would suggest blocking the backplate air intake with silicone.
When tuned in correctly the Apollo delivers the heaviest clouds that I've seen from any vaporizer (short of the smoke of combustion) .....actually the clouds that I've seen the torch based Supreme Vaporizer produce in some of the better YouTube videos (such as IamKrazy2's) would be comparable.
I've included a link to this review as the last video. My Apollo can produce very similarly dense clouds with the Solo tube mod and the backplate air intake blocked with silicone. Also with very good flavour that you can taste as still being fresh.....and also gauge the remaining extraction available through the taste as you draw.
But be careful.....it is still possible to combust if you push too far - which you will be tempted to do since you CAN take it so close to combustion. I combusted a second time recently and then changed out the water but then didn't clean the glass Solo stem.
When I loaded a fresh bowl the next day I was getting a burnt ashy taste that I didn't understand since the bowl was fresh and when I removed it to check it I realized that although the herb was still green and fresh - that the glass stem and bowl itself still stunk like an ashtray from my misadventures of the night before......which was being carried through and coming out in the taste of the vapor even though the vapor itself was very far from combusting.
A dirty combusted stem will also not provide you with the proper cues to impending combustion either since running clean vapor through a dirty stem will make the vapor taste slightly combusted already
It was too bad this occurred because I had to then ISO wash it clean and get rid of that nice golden vapor buildup that I was looking forward to harvesting with a cream/milk bath in a small slow cooker.
When I do this I combined 10% cream and whole milk 50-50 and let it soak in the small fondue sized slow cooker on the lowest heat setting for about an hour and stir occasionally until all the oils have floated to the surface and mixed into the milk-cream broth. The smell and taste of this concoction is incredible and would be ruined with the effects of combustion in the stem buildup.
Oh well, the Apollo really builds that golden haze very quickly due to the vapor density that is possible to be pushed through the Solo stem and I'm sure that if I'm careful not to push it too far and combust again that I will soon have another glazed stem to harvest.