The Toad from Morwood
- Thread starter Dan Morrison
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FlyingLow
Team NO SLEEP!
Very clever on the lettering!
I am curious about your setup/stem. What are you working with? Do you have a wooden plug in the mouthpiece?
My heater of a TOAD arrived a short while ago and I am really loving it! So much to dive into, everything is beyond expectation!
I got a bunch of extra stems and beads, but honestly am not interested in trying any of them I am enjoying the woodie so much. Flavor is on point, but I am still getting the hang for how far I can push it... I rode the line of combustion on my second bowl, but was able to stop just short.
Not having a Nomad, there is a slight learning curve on how to hit this best. It is not like P80, which rips harder and harder with increasing airflow, TOAD is a balance of pre-heat time, draw time and inhaling at a proper speed. I find I am drawing slower with TOAD, it feels as if the slow draw helps to soak/extract more from my buds.
TONS more experimenting to do- and I am trashing all my years old batteries for new ones that are currently on the charger. I have a feeling it is going to further improve my experience a lot and I look forward to commenting after I get some more cycles in.
Thank you Dan! It is a stunner!
I am curious, do you recommend a long press and a continued hold on the button until the end of draw; or do you flutter the button a bit as you reach temps? Also, how deep do you prefer to set the screens? I assume they are meant to be adjustable, but knowing how precise you are, I was curious if you found a "sweet spot" depth that you prefer the most.
I am curious about your setup/stem. What are you working with? Do you have a wooden plug in the mouthpiece?
My heater of a TOAD arrived a short while ago and I am really loving it! So much to dive into, everything is beyond expectation!
I got a bunch of extra stems and beads, but honestly am not interested in trying any of them I am enjoying the woodie so much. Flavor is on point, but I am still getting the hang for how far I can push it... I rode the line of combustion on my second bowl, but was able to stop just short.
Not having a Nomad, there is a slight learning curve on how to hit this best. It is not like P80, which rips harder and harder with increasing airflow, TOAD is a balance of pre-heat time, draw time and inhaling at a proper speed. I find I am drawing slower with TOAD, it feels as if the slow draw helps to soak/extract more from my buds.
TONS more experimenting to do- and I am trashing all my years old batteries for new ones that are currently on the charger. I have a feeling it is going to further improve my experience a lot and I look forward to commenting after I get some more cycles in.
Thank you Dan! It is a stunner!
I am curious, do you recommend a long press and a continued hold on the button until the end of draw; or do you flutter the button a bit as you reach temps? Also, how deep do you prefer to set the screens? I assume they are meant to be adjustable, but knowing how precise you are, I was curious if you found a "sweet spot" depth that you prefer the most.
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Improvaper
Well-Known Member
Let me tell you, that little project took FOREVER and really made me appreciate the micro-levels of artistry that Dan is able to achieve on these things. I can't stand that stuff, lol!
The mouthpiece is the first one Mistvape issued with the "o-ring" Imps. From, uh, this post...
...
14mm mouthpieces are an easy project for any wood artisan. I'll probably be adding more to my collection in the near future. Because this one is, uh.... yeah... just a little.
jungpunk420
Well-Known Member
Ramahs
Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
@FlyingLow , Faster inhale = cooler, slower inhale = hotter.
For max vapor production you want to be at the sweet spot in the middle. To find that sweet spot its best to learn by using a faster inhale, feel the speed it takes to get a cooler hit... then slow down your inhale just a tad on the next session.
A bad spot to be is to think that by drawing super slow you'll get bigger clouds because it's running hotter. Extraction requires having enough airflow to carry the heat through the chamber... with very little airflow you may at the same time overheat the chamber and also get weak or harsh vapor.
If things feel harsh from overheating, the natural inclination is to slow down your draw. With the Toad, you need to speed up slightly to cool things off and get that smooth vapor flowin.
You really want to hold the button down for the entire inhale, then, when you let go of the button... continue your inhale for a few seconds more to ride the stored heat and cool down the heater for max efficiency.
By eliminating the variable of button feathering you'll be able to learn the device as I designed it to be used. I think that not worrying about button feathering technique is just so much easier in the long run.
That said, once you get the hang of it, feel free to feather the button if you want to cool down the heater and use a slower inhale. Everyone develops their own style!
I use the screens pushed down about the same distance as the width of the chamber. so, about 11mm, give or take. A 1:1 ratio works best in general. If I am using hand plucked very coarsely ground flower, packed super loose with lots of air pockets, I can increase depth to more like 20-30mm.
If I'm using ultra fine grinds or keif, reduce depth to around 5mm.
And fresh batteries do make a big difference. I replace my batteries about once a year.
Excited for more!!
For max vapor production you want to be at the sweet spot in the middle. To find that sweet spot its best to learn by using a faster inhale, feel the speed it takes to get a cooler hit... then slow down your inhale just a tad on the next session.
A bad spot to be is to think that by drawing super slow you'll get bigger clouds because it's running hotter. Extraction requires having enough airflow to carry the heat through the chamber... with very little airflow you may at the same time overheat the chamber and also get weak or harsh vapor.
If things feel harsh from overheating, the natural inclination is to slow down your draw. With the Toad, you need to speed up slightly to cool things off and get that smooth vapor flowin.
You really want to hold the button down for the entire inhale, then, when you let go of the button... continue your inhale for a few seconds more to ride the stored heat and cool down the heater for max efficiency.
By eliminating the variable of button feathering you'll be able to learn the device as I designed it to be used. I think that not worrying about button feathering technique is just so much easier in the long run.
That said, once you get the hang of it, feel free to feather the button if you want to cool down the heater and use a slower inhale. Everyone develops their own style!
I use the screens pushed down about the same distance as the width of the chamber. so, about 11mm, give or take. A 1:1 ratio works best in general. If I am using hand plucked very coarsely ground flower, packed super loose with lots of air pockets, I can increase depth to more like 20-30mm.
If I'm using ultra fine grinds or keif, reduce depth to around 5mm.
And fresh batteries do make a big difference. I replace my batteries about once a year.
Excited for more!!
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
how about a full nug and like 1-3 holes with a pick tool? i guess that works also pretty well in the toad but needs more preheat if wispy vapor is desired?
i really like to vape full nugs in my convection devices
@GoldenBud IME it's all about airflow, if you've got a dense nug with tightly folded leaves covering up all those inner trichomes... there's just no way for the heat to penetrate as efficiently. You'll always end up with extracted surface trichomes, and under extracted inner trichomes.
Mind you, the flavor is great! And there are a lot of surface trichomes to enjoy. To fully extract, you may need to break up the nug after the first or second hit.
I do enjoy the whole nug method, however. Flavor is different, and so so good.
Poking holes is a fun idea!
Mind you, the flavor is great! And there are a lot of surface trichomes to enjoy. To fully extract, you may need to break up the nug after the first or second hit.
I do enjoy the whole nug method, however. Flavor is different, and so so good.
Poking holes is a fun idea!
FlyingLow
Team NO SLEEP!
Your advice is well received, thank you! Every chamber gets better and better as I become more acquainted with its operation and how far I can push it.
I did have a few quick questions:
I am using the high heater, and finding that [with my draw style] my sweet spot is coming in around the 5-6 count and going for the long pull until my mouth senses temps need to back down. But I am going to take your advice and just rip harder to cool versus backing off the button.
I have a ton more exploring to do, but am loving the beauty and simplicity of the entire package. From pouch to stems, to the fucking art! This is such a sweet package!
Will get some new photos over the weeks, welcome home!
I did have a few quick questions:
- With regards to the PERFECT carry case that you sent, I hope to stink this up to high hell over the years. Is the pouch machine washable? It appears the color is pretty well set, but I don't want to risk ruining it.
- I can get lost looking into the lichen button- so fucking cool! Seeing the simple and precise action when looking up the battery sleeve is also real neat and easy to see how it engages. As it all appears very mechanical, I am curious, is there a simple way to lessen the tension required to press the button?
- With all the different stem configurations, pear, burl, glass, glass w/beads, etc., what is your preferred stem setup?
I am using the high heater, and finding that [with my draw style] my sweet spot is coming in around the 5-6 count and going for the long pull until my mouth senses temps need to back down. But I am going to take your advice and just rip harder to cool versus backing off the button.
I have a ton more exploring to do, but am loving the beauty and simplicity of the entire package. From pouch to stems, to the fucking art! This is such a sweet package!
Will get some new photos over the weeks, welcome home!
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Awesome toad!
I've been using the rip harder to cool vs. letting off the button, works pretty well, but once I pulled too hard and must have sucked all the hot keif straight to the back of my throat...that was the only unpleasant experience I've had so far. Would not recommend. A gentle slow accel seems to work better for me, vs "dumping the clutch"
Happy to report that day 2 with the toad went much better than my first attempts. Just had to slow down and think about what I was doing, and I did use the timer on my phone to help get a feel for seconds for the sake of consistency. Helped a lot.
Haven't tried the glass stems yet, the wood stem is just perfect.
Razhumikin
Well-Known Member
Glass stem, with a half pack of balls, is vapor bliss.
I'll have to give that a shot soon. Half pack better than a full pack?
Razhumikin
Well-Known Member
I havent actually tried a full pack, but I get so much cooling from just the half pack I havent felt the need. Feels like the right balance to me, but play around with it!
Cheebsy
Microbe minion
I fucking love those fly agaric mushrooms @FlyingLow really really nice looking toad.
@FlyingLow
Colour should be very much set, but since the button is wood, and the leather pull tab, I would suggest hand washing gently... and trying to avoid getting that button wet too much. It'll probably be fine if you get the whole thing wet.
The "spring" in the button is actually two magnets opposing each other. You could get weaker magnets in the same size to replace the ones in there. Let me know if you'd like a link for that. There is a delicate balance between the pressure from the battery causing friction against the button screw and the force of the magnets.... but they could likely be weaker without issue.... I think.
I prefer the straight glass stem, no cooling. Easiest to clean. If I want to take bigger rips, I'll add a half stem full of glass cooling beads. A full stem of cooling beads is a bit too much cooling for me.
Second fav setup is the wood stem with a 3/4 full stem worth of cooling beads installed. I like the wooden herb chamber more than the glass.
I also just love the look of the wood stem.
Love hearing the first impressions!!
Colour should be very much set, but since the button is wood, and the leather pull tab, I would suggest hand washing gently... and trying to avoid getting that button wet too much. It'll probably be fine if you get the whole thing wet.
The "spring" in the button is actually two magnets opposing each other. You could get weaker magnets in the same size to replace the ones in there. Let me know if you'd like a link for that. There is a delicate balance between the pressure from the battery causing friction against the button screw and the force of the magnets.... but they could likely be weaker without issue.... I think.
I prefer the straight glass stem, no cooling. Easiest to clean. If I want to take bigger rips, I'll add a half stem full of glass cooling beads. A full stem of cooling beads is a bit too much cooling for me.
Second fav setup is the wood stem with a 3/4 full stem worth of cooling beads installed. I like the wooden herb chamber more than the glass.
I also just love the look of the wood stem.
Love hearing the first impressions!!
FlyingLow
Team NO SLEEP!
Thank you so much for your advice and guidance, she really is a crafty piece of art!
I would have never guessed that button's tension was due to magnets! I am not going to mod, but will keep it in mind for dexterity issues.
I am finding my sweet spot for draw is [with high heater] to do a 7-8 second preheat. Gives me quick extraction and I can coffee brown a load in 4-5 draws for fast sedation. And, if I want to slow down and have an extended session all I have to do is adjust my preheat to 5-6 seconds. It is so fucking simple!
What is MOST FASCINATING to me, is the complete lack of electronics. I don't see anything that could possibly fail on this device.
I just started tying flies (fishing) and I cannot begin to tell you how lovely tonight has been. I am sitting at my work bench cranking out zebra midges on tiny #18 hooks, I am streaming live audio from WSP's night one at Panic en la Playa, and sipping on Skittlz through my TOAD. It's a good life... and here comes set 2!
I would have never guessed that button's tension was due to magnets! I am not going to mod, but will keep it in mind for dexterity issues.
I am finding my sweet spot for draw is [with high heater] to do a 7-8 second preheat. Gives me quick extraction and I can coffee brown a load in 4-5 draws for fast sedation. And, if I want to slow down and have an extended session all I have to do is adjust my preheat to 5-6 seconds. It is so fucking simple!
What is MOST FASCINATING to me, is the complete lack of electronics. I don't see anything that could possibly fail on this device.
I just started tying flies (fishing) and I cannot begin to tell you how lovely tonight has been. I am sitting at my work bench cranking out zebra midges on tiny #18 hooks, I am streaming live audio from WSP's night one at Panic en la Playa, and sipping on Skittlz through my TOAD. It's a good life... and here comes set 2!
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lookhigh
FC member
This was a big atracction to me.
@FlyingLow
Magnets are smoother than spring and never wear out.
Sounds like you're gettin into the groove, Awesome!
The simplicity of the unregulated design really appeals to me as well.
Fly tying sounds and looks so neat, I've been wanting to get into it. Seems like a super relaxing activity. And at the end.... you get to go fishing! I'd love to get into the Japanese version of fly fishing called tenkara. It's a more minimalist setup, just the way I like it, hah.
Magnets are smoother than spring and never wear out.
Sounds like you're gettin into the groove, Awesome!
The simplicity of the unregulated design really appeals to me as well.
Fly tying sounds and looks so neat, I've been wanting to get into it. Seems like a super relaxing activity. And at the end.... you get to go fishing! I'd love to get into the Japanese version of fly fishing called tenkara. It's a more minimalist setup, just the way I like it, hah.
FlyingLow
Team NO SLEEP!
You would LOVE the whole process, and I'd bet you could fashion quite a spectacular rod! Bamboo is the best material, but often exotics and burls are used on handles and reel seats.
Tenkara is minimalist, but also downright efficient way to catch a lot of fish. Having gone back and forth on this style versus traditional over the last year, I find I favor traditional fly reel. I just cant give up the sound of a trout pulling out the drag on the reel- with the right reel, it sounds spectacular!
I do think you would enjoy the world of fly tying immensely! It is all about minimalism and precision and you are going to love the tooling... it does not hurt you are already living near big trout waters!
I am quite new to tying, and last night was zen. Sipping on my TOAD, I made some of my best flies to date. I entered my flow state.
Tenkara is minimalist, but also downright efficient way to catch a lot of fish. Having gone back and forth on this style versus traditional over the last year, I find I favor traditional fly reel. I just cant give up the sound of a trout pulling out the drag on the reel- with the right reel, it sounds spectacular!
I do think you would enjoy the world of fly tying immensely! It is all about minimalism and precision and you are going to love the tooling... it does not hurt you are already living near big trout waters!
I am quite new to tying, and last night was zen. Sipping on my TOAD, I made some of my best flies to date. I entered my flow state.
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@FlyingLow, I live on the border of Algonquin Park, a trout fishing paradise.... I should probably take more advantage of it!
Welp, sounds like I'm tyin' flies soon then.
Welp, sounds like I'm tyin' flies soon then.
cx714
Unregulated Tendencies
You could sell them as vape pets. Toad flies!Welp, sounds like I'm tyin' flies soon then.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Oh yeah what happened to those vape pets?!
I havent had AS much time as I would like to use the Toad but so far I've been getting nearly identical results. In fact I was thinking about this last night.
It really is extremely simple, I started increasing my preheats to 7-9 seconds ish and was getting results that were much more inline with what I was expecting from the high heater. Once I got comfortable with that I quickly realized how versatile the Toad is, because those 5 second pre-heats were flavor city but those longer preheats get me the big hits I was looking for. I love it because sometimes I do enjoy a relaxing, extended session and sometimes I'm in that "I want big hits and I want them now!" mode. The stopwatch thing on my phone really helped me figure that out but the toad makes me want to get my hands an old school pocket watch to use instead of a digital stopwatch app... shouldn't need a watch for that much longer though.
I also have been pulling the battery after each bowl and checking the voltage to give myself an idea of how that impacts performance. Seems to be very efficient so far.
Going to start messing with some cooling balls soon too. I really like the wood stem, it's different. Might put the balls in there
@BrianTL , Thanks for sharing!
After inhale speed, the only variable you need to worry about is pre-heat time. Inhale speed is subjective and variable... so that's more of a thing each person needs to figure out. But once you've got your comfortable inhale speed dialed in, pre-heat time is a great way to change the temp in a consistent way.
I think that I like more of a ramping up in temperature throughout a hit... and that's why I'm usually starting with a 3 second pre-heat on the high heater. This allows me to start with a slow inhale, feel the temp rising, and then slowly increase my inhale to stabilize the temp at a certain point.
But starting with a longer pre-heat will definitely give quicker results upfront. The cool thing is that you can play around with these variables to dial in the exact sort of hit you want, on the fly.
I think that is all part of the fun of unregulated!
After inhale speed, the only variable you need to worry about is pre-heat time. Inhale speed is subjective and variable... so that's more of a thing each person needs to figure out. But once you've got your comfortable inhale speed dialed in, pre-heat time is a great way to change the temp in a consistent way.
I think that I like more of a ramping up in temperature throughout a hit... and that's why I'm usually starting with a 3 second pre-heat on the high heater. This allows me to start with a slow inhale, feel the temp rising, and then slowly increase my inhale to stabilize the temp at a certain point.
But starting with a longer pre-heat will definitely give quicker results upfront. The cool thing is that you can play around with these variables to dial in the exact sort of hit you want, on the fly.
I think that is all part of the fun of unregulated!