@FlyingLow , Faster inhale = cooler, slower inhale = hotter.
For max vapor production you want to be at the sweet spot in the middle. To find that sweet spot its best to learn by using a faster inhale, feel the speed it takes to get a cooler hit... then slow down your inhale just a tad on the next session.
A bad spot to be is to think that by drawing super slow you'll get bigger clouds because it's running hotter. Extraction requires having enough airflow to carry the heat through the chamber... with very little airflow you may at the same time overheat the chamber and also get weak or harsh vapor.
If things feel harsh from overheating, the natural inclination is to slow down your draw. With the Toad, you need to speed up slightly to cool things off and get that smooth vapor flowin.
You really want to hold the button down for the entire inhale, then, when you let go of the button... continue your inhale for a few seconds more to ride the stored heat and cool down the heater for max efficiency.
By eliminating the variable of button feathering you'll be able to learn the device as I designed it to be used. I think that not worrying about button feathering technique is just so much easier in the long run.
That said, once you get the hang of it, feel free to feather the button if you want to cool down the heater and use a slower inhale. Everyone develops their own style!
I use the screens pushed down about the same distance as the width of the chamber. so, about 11mm, give or take. A 1:1 ratio works best in general. If I am using hand plucked very coarsely ground flower, packed super loose with lots of air pockets, I can increase depth to more like 20-30mm.
If I'm using ultra fine grinds or keif, reduce depth to around 5mm.
And fresh batteries do make a big difference. I replace my batteries about once a year.
Excited for more!!