The Toad from Morwood

Dan Morrison

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Been working on some final prototype materials for the sleeve.

It's all looking good. The washi composite has a really nice feel, looks organic, and beads up water nicely. It's not 100% waterproof, just water resistant.

DSCF4378.jpg

I apply the pigment to the paper using a brush and a special concoction of starch, pigment, and water. The pigment soaks deep into the kozo fibers, saturating it all the way through.

These three strips will be wrapped around a single Toad to make the shell. The washi is semi-transparent, so you see the multiple layers of paper underneath. And since the pigment is fully saturated all the way through the layers, the color will never wear off.

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If all goes well with wrapping this paper, it should be my final 'production quality' prototype.
 

Dan Morrison

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Wrapping went well! Here's the final production quality Toad! The body of this one, as well as probably all of them in the first batch, is local black cherry. The stem is pear, but most likely they'll be glass as stock. I've got a soft spot for this wood stem though...

On the end-grain of the paper sleeve, you can see how the light greenish colour goes all the way through the material. I think the above view is quite nice with this coloured border around the wood top. I imagine with more vivid colours it'll look even more striking.

The stems are interchangeable with the Nomad I and II.

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No more brass on the back like with the Nomads, it's all hidden inside now.

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The bottom is magnetic. Spring loaded brass battery contact. And just like the Nomad II, you turn the wooden bottom 180 degrees and re-install to create a hard break in the circuit so that you can carry it in your pocket without worrying about accidentally pressing the button and engaging the heater.

DSCF4391.jpg

I kept the same chunky brass heater module contact ring that's in the Nomad II. I tried a solid 99.9% silver ring, but found that it made no difference... actually the softness of the metal would have likely caused issues down the road with wear and tear.

The brass contact ring sits in the wood without any visible tracks or wires attached. The electrical path is totally hidden for a clean look.

DSCF4392.jpg

I'm trying to decide what colours to go with for the first batch... I may just go with all greens. Or match my fabric case colours, green, blue, yellow, brown, grey. I like the gradient I think... but the solids and two-tones look sweet as well so It's tough to choose!

I've spent so long doing custom orders I forget how hard it is to make these final colour choices, haha!
 

3migo

Is this a...what day is this?
Wrapping went well! Here's the final production quality Toad! The body of this one, as well as probably all of them in the first batch, is local black cherry. The stem is pear, but most likely they'll be glass as stock. I've got a soft spot for this wood stem though...

On the end-grain of the paper sleeve, you can see how the light greenish colour goes all the way through the material. I think the above view is quite nice with this coloured border around the wood top. I imagine with more vivid colours it'll look even more striking.

The stems are interchangeable with the Nomad I and II.

View attachment 10350

View attachment 10351

No more brass on the back like with the Nomads, it's all hidden inside now.

View attachment 10352

View attachment 10353

View attachment 10354

The bottom is magnetic. Spring loaded brass battery contact. And just like the Nomad II, you turn the wooden bottom 180 degrees and re-install to create a hard break in the circuit so that you can carry it in your pocket without worrying about accidentally pressing the button and engaging the heater.

View attachment 10355

I kept the same chunky brass heater module contact ring that's in the Nomad II. I tried a solid 99.9% silver ring, but found that it made no difference... actually the softness of the metal would have likely caused issues down the road with wear and tear.

The brass contact ring sits in the wood without any visible tracks or wires attached. The electrical path is totally hidden for a clean look.

View attachment 10356

I'm trying to decide what colours to go with for the first batch... I may just go with all greens. Or match my fabric case colours, green, blue, yellow, brown, grey. I like the gradient I think... but the solids and two-tones look sweet as well so It's tough to choose!

I've spent so long doing custom orders I forget how hard it is to make these final colour choices, haha!
All the colors I'm sure would look great, but I'm partial to the gradient. Looking forward to seeing more from this project!
 

Dan Morrison

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
@kanal , not sure yet. I may just dump a batch of 15 or so here on the thread. Anyone who has said or says they're interested in the thread will likely get special favor. This may be okay until I do a more public release.

@3migo , noted! one point for gradients!

With this newest Toad I made the outer shell with a hard acrylic adhesive intead of the wheat starch paste, The final result is practically identical in look and feel... but this acryic makes the shell totally waterproof and just a tad bit more stiff and durable. I think the adhesion strength between the layers is higher as well. Adhesion to the wood is on par with the wheat starch. Both shells are topped with beeswax/mineral oil.

The acrylic is a bit easier to use, less water content, more initial tackiness and faster dry time. Transparency might be a little better with the acrylic.

The acrylic doesn't need to be finished with an infusion of shellac, reducing a step.

Both adhesives are artist top grade, archival. The acrylic is made in Canada by an eco-conscious company (Tri-art).

I am torn. On one hand the acrylic checks a lot of boxes...and if im totally honest it's probably the superior thing to use in terms of durability. But the wheat starch/shellac is a very close second...with the added cool factor of being traditional and totally natural.

Thoughts? How important is the all-natural thing? I mean...at the end of the day these Toads will still have silicon o-rings, acrylic lenses, and PEEK heater module insulators... You simply must go with what is functionally the best material for the job...right!? hmm.

but but but.... i was looking forward to eating my toad skins!
 

BakedDiogenes

Well-Known Member
@kanal , not sure yet. I may just dump a batch of 15 or so here on the thread. Anyone who has said or says they're interested in the thread will likely get special favor. This may be okay until I do a more public release.

@3migo , noted! one point for gradients!

With this newest Toad I made the outer shell with a hard acrylic adhesive intead of the wheat starch paste, The final result is practically identical in look and feel... but this acryic makes the shell totally waterproof and just a tad bit more stiff and durable. I think the adhesion strength between the layers is higher as well. Adhesion to the wood is on par with the wheat starch. Both shells are topped with beeswax/mineral oil.

The acrylic is a bit easier to use, less water content, more initial tackiness and faster dry time. Transparency might be a little better with the acrylic.

The acrylic doesn't need to be finished with an infusion of shellac, reducing a step.

Both adhesives are artist top grade, archival. The acrylic is made in Canada by an eco-conscious company (Tri-art).

I am torn. On one hand the acrylic checks a lot of boxes...and if im totally honest it's probably the superior thing to use in terms of durability. But the wheat starch/shellac is a very close second...with the added cool factor of being traditional and totally natural.

Thoughts? How important is the all-natural thing? I mean...at the end of the day these Toads will still have silicon o-rings, acrylic lenses, and PEEK heater module insulators... You simply must go with what is functionally the best material for the job...right!? hmm.

but but but.... i was looking forward to eating my toad skins!
If I haven’t said already, I’m in.

And as far as natural vs acrylic, I’d probably opt for acrylic due to the durability, but I imagine most owners would baby this anyway. If the natural way is only slightly inferior, it seems to fit more with the aesthetic. But, as you mentioned, other components are not natural.

Fingers crossed I can snag one.
 
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gordontreeman

Everythings coming up Milhouse!
@Dan Morrison personally I loved reading about the washi and how it was made on the first page of this thread. I think it looks beautiful, I love the tradition and craft that goes into making it, and I dig the focus on sustainability (I think traditionally washi was locally sourced fibers, too?).

I wouldn't fault you at all if you chose the acrylic for the various reasons you laid out, but I think the washi wrappers are super cool and something special!
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Haha yeah I mean I'm definitely interested, who wouldn't be??

Acrylic seems fine on the outside like that to me, I get psychologically it hurts a little, but I think making the work easier on you is very important and increased durability makes it more of a no brainer...

Also a vote for blue color (or gray color) but I think we will all take whatever is available! :love::lol:
 
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3migo

Is this a...what day is this?
@kanal , not sure yet. I may just dump a batch of 15 or so here on the thread. Anyone who has said or says they're interested in the thread will likely get special favor. This may be okay until I do a more public release.

@3migo , noted! one point for gradients!

With this newest Toad I made the outer shell with a hard acrylic adhesive intead of the wheat starch paste, The final result is practically identical in look and feel... but this acryic makes the shell totally waterproof and just a tad bit more stiff and durable. I think the adhesion strength between the layers is higher as well. Adhesion to the wood is on par with the wheat starch. Both shells are topped with beeswax/mineral oil.

The acrylic is a bit easier to use, less water content, more initial tackiness and faster dry time. Transparency might be a little better with the acrylic.

The acrylic doesn't need to be finished with an infusion of shellac, reducing a step.

Both adhesives are artist top grade, archival. The acrylic is made in Canada by an eco-conscious company (Tri-art).

I am torn. On one hand the acrylic checks a lot of boxes...and if im totally honest it's probably the superior thing to use in terms of durability. But the wheat starch/shellac is a very close second...with the added cool factor of being traditional and totally natural.

Thoughts? How important is the all-natural thing? I mean...at the end of the day these Toads will still have silicon o-rings, acrylic lenses, and PEEK heater module insulators... You simply must go with what is functionally the best material for the job...right!? hmm.

but but but.... i was looking forward to eating my toad skins!
I don't have a strong preference there. If the acrylic makes for a more durable product and is easier to make, I say go for it.

And as others have said - I'm definitely interested in one of these.
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
I'm in too, this looks really nice.

I think an acrylic coat would be fitting to keep the finish pristine for longer, and with it it can be taken about and used a bit more freely. I appreciate the underlying technique, however it seems appropriate to preserve it as best as possible
 

cx714

Unregulated Tendencies
Said it earlier but just so there’s no doubt, I’m in!

Feeling you on the all-natural/wabi-sabi vibe for the sleeve but if this is meant to be the out & about version of the Nomad (yeah, right), the acrylic is also logically consistent!
 

seriousTone

Well-Known Member
Damn love the green gradient on that Toad. That cover looks a lot nicer than I initially thought honestly. The texture looks great. Love how it resembles an Okin box, with a stem.

How sick would this be @Dan Morrison --- the stem retracting flush into the body.

Animated GIF


Maybe not feasible but would be sick.

I think a sunset red would look nice, same shade as that green. I'm just imagining a full on sunset colored gradient shaded Toad.
 

attackpoints

Well-Known Member
I think a sunset red would look nice, same shade as that green. I'm just imagining a full on sunset colored gradient shaded Toad.
Yeah, agree with this. I love the gentle earth tones so a nice earthy red, with the green sage, and the cool river stone blue would all be great options.

Also wanted to join the echoes on going acrylic vs washi. No one would be upset about added durability.

I'd love a chance at one of these.
 

Dan Morrison

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
All wonderfull comments! And just to clarify @attackpoints , The washi is the same, still made of washi, just using a different adhesive. Theres no top coat of acrylic, what you feel on the surface is washi paper infused with a bit of acrylic... which actually feels quite organic surprisingly. The shells are sanded so that they feel buttery soft n smooth.

@xtraclipsforxtrashit , diggin' the sunset vibes!
 

attackpoints

Well-Known Member
All wonderfull comments! And just to clarify @attackpoints , The washi is the same, still made of washi, just using a different adhesive. Theres no top coat of acrylic, what you feel on the surface is washi paper infused with a bit of acrylic... which actually feels quite organic surprisingly. The shells are sanded so that they feel buttery soft n smooth.

@xtraclipsforxtrashit , diggin' the sunset vibes!
Ah thank you for clarifying!
 
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