I don't think I will do any sort of quick draw... I've done that style before with the Okins, and I feel like it's difficult to do fairly. Some people just use bots, some people are in different time zones... some people's internet is too slow. Doesn't feel fair to me.
So, y'all slow movers can rest easy, haha.
Update on the Toad front, haven't had any time to do much work on it, but I've been keeping up the testing of course! An interesting note is that my prototype of the Toad runs cooler than the Nomad 2. It's not enough to be noticeable in use, but using my meter I was picking up a clear difference in amperage using the exact same heater module between the two models.
This was super confusing, because the Toad has practically an identical circuit to the Nomad. The only thing that I changed was the effective AWG of the electrical path running down the back. On the Nomad this is a nice beefy strip of brass or bronze that runs down the back face of the body. In the Toad prototype I switched it out for a solid copper wire. Now... this wire is supposed to be OK to handle at least 10 amps, but for whatever reason it must be causing enough resistance to lower the amps. It's definitely smaller than the electrical path in the Nomad... but I didn't think it would make any difference at all based on my calculations.
The other difference is that I cut corners on this prototype and used soft solder instead of my usual silver solder. You would never think that this sort of change would make any difference... but perhaps it did.
Just goes to show that even though you think you have everything figured out, you really need to test things in the real world to figure out what's actually going on.... even the smallest changes can have unforeseen consequences.
Anyhow, I'll be making the next prototype with the OG beefy electrical path and silver solder joints.
Another interesting thing is that I've been able to keep a Nomad 2 on the shelf, untouched, for 7 months. And testing it against a freshly cleaned Nomad 2, it drew the same amps, which means it's running at peak performance.
This is very good news to me.... since I was really hoping that switching all of the contacts to brass (in place of bronze that was used for the Nomad 1's) would give better corrosion resistance to allow for less frequent cleaning. So, seems like that's the case.
Interestingly, I used solid 99.99% silver heater module contacts for this Toad prototype, and I'm seeing zero real world advantage. Actually, I'm seeing a disadvantage in that the softness of the silver is quickly showing wear marks. Probably nothing that would affect performance, but it's not very aesthetically pleasing.