The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie

sedentree

sedentree

Well-Known Member
General Disaster said:
This is interesting that some are getting their spherical heat capacitors a little scruffy!
For whatever it's worth (little most likely!), the inside of the heater, where the bowl sits, looks like new, and the balls as best I can see with a strong light, show no staining or marking at all. I couldn't tell it's been used!

I can't say if this is why, but I always heat the pest in the Wand in a near to horizontal position (I use MH's Wand stand, but the other way round - facing front not back, which lets it stand on it's side (with something behind to support it on 'back' side of wand so it doesn't topple over onto it's back (display up)) with the coil's axis horizontal. The pest then can rest in there, and pushing it in until it touches the glass adapter at the back, then gentle release, and it slides out the hole by 1 or 2mm and stops and hangs there horizontally (within a few degrees). A small object (~½" high) to rest the mouthpiece on helps if it's unsteady. Then just double-click the button to start heating.
Maybe it's coincidence but it seems to keep the head completely clean.
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Prior to getting the Wand, I was heating it with a jet, holding close to vertical, heater up, so again, never 'upside down'.
Click to expand...

For some reason, I’ve seen the description of putting the wand in the holder and having the Wand sideways, I don’t know why but I imagined the stand being as if the stand was in the normal orientation and the Wand was just resting in it but this image makes much more sense 😅
 
Jojofernz

Jojofernz

Well-Known Member
I have no problems with getting my balls dirty. It’s worth it to just set the Tempest (pest makes it sound like a bug lol) down in the wand hands free. It’s one of the reasons I enjoy it so much!

If I’m twaxing, it’s usually in a piece so I set it in the piece then heat it with the wand from there
 
General Disaster

General Disaster

Of cabbages and Kings.
TedJones said:
Yea the one’s you can see could be showing you their cleaner side though :lol:
Have you removed them yet?
Click to expand...
Nah, one of the reasons I try to be as clean as possible is to avoid having to do that! I'm one of those idiots who can work out what's happening in theory, but then on taking something apart, I inevitably lose something, put it back together to find an extra component in my hand! Etc etc! Or maybe bend something and break it because I misjudged the force applied!

But I did use a very bright led torch and peered in everywhere I could, like through the air vents (my eyesight is extremely sharp). The balls also still have the same very slight movement, a slight rattle when shaken, so they don't seem to have stuck together (much if at all). And finally the lack of any kind of staining, marks, fragments or crumbs, anything at all, within the heaters bowl housing, suggesting little if anything spreading upwards.

I do take things with a pinch and an open mind much as I'm able, but after near two months daily use, with reclaim a plenty to clean from the stem, all I can say is no sign of deposits in the heater at all (even if somehow a little has settled in the middle of the balls mass (seems unlikely being the hottest part with high air flow?) so what need to dismantle and clean? Just going on what I see and conclusions that look likely, could be wrong.

sedentree said:
For some reason, I’ve seen the description of putting the wand in the holder and having the Wand sideways, I don’t know why but I imagined the stand being as if the stand was in the normal orientation and the Wand was just resting in it but this image makes much more sense 😅
Click to expand...
That could have been me even. I think I described this (no picture though) loosely not long ago somewhere in FC. Probably this thread I guess.
But without the picture it's hard to see what I meant. I actually started by using the funnel from the Reload, upside down, to prop up the pests mouthpiece! But found the 1 or 2mm movement when it just hangs there, didn't adversely affect the coil position and head heat-up.

I've always been a little obs/comp with not messing up ovens - my TM2 looks pristine inside the oven, not a trace of crumbs, reclaim, anything at al, even the gauze is spotless. So this idea of not putting the pest in upside down was almost instinctive, and when I found the MH clip on stand worked a treat to keep the Wand in that position, it was all good to go! I also figured a small wooden frame/stand could also do the job, and simple to make for anyone who doesn't remove their finger tips with a chisel like I do! Even include a little support for the pest mouthpiece.
 
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Jojofernz

Jojofernz

Well-Known Member
General Disaster said:
Nah, one of the reasons I try to be as clean as possible is to avoid having to do that! I'm one of those idiots who can work out what's happening in theory, but then on taking something apart, I inevitably lose something, put it back together to find an extra component in my hand! Etc etc! Or maybe bend something and break it because I misjudged the force applied!

But I did use a very bright led torch and peered in everywhere I could, like through the air vents (my eyesight is extremely sharp). The balls also still have the same very slight movement, a slight rattle when shaken, so they don't seem to have stuck together (much if at all). And finally the lack of any kind of staining, marks, fragments or crumbs, anything at all, within the heaters bowl housing, suggesting little if anything spreading upwards.

I do take things with a pinch and an open mind much as I'm able, but after near two months daily use, with reclaim a plenty to clean from the stem, all I can say is no sign of deposits in the heater at all (even if somehow a little has settled in the middle of the balls mass (seems unlikely being the hottest part with high air flow?) so what need to dismantle and clean? Just going on what I see and conclusions that look likely, could be wrong.


That could have been me even. I think I described this (no picture though) loosely not long ago somewhere in FC. Probably this thread I guess.
But without the picture it's hard to see what I meant. I actually started by using the funnel from the Reload, upside down, to prop up the pests mouthpiece! But found the 1 or 2mm movement when it just hangs there, didn't adversely affect the coil position and head heat-up.

I've always been a little obs/comp with not messing up ovens - my TM2 looks pristine inside the oven, not a trace of crumbs, reclaim, anything at al, even the gauze is spotless. So this idea of not putting the pest in upside down was almost instinctive, and when I found the MH clip on stand worked a treat to keep the Wand in that position, it was all good to go! I also figured a small wooden frame/stand could also do the job, and simple to make for anyone who doesn't remove their finger tips with a chisel like I do! Even include a little support for the pest mouthpiece.
Click to expand...
Only way to know for sure is to dump out the Tempest balls lmaoo. So just wait till you feel it’s necessary but just a heads up mine can look white and clean shining a light down on and not til I dump them out do I see the staining and browning

Also best reason for cleaning them I’ve found is it improves taste/performance after lots of heavy use. It’s not a necessity for awhile if you don’t feel it is. But every time I’ve cleaned my balls, I’ve been really glad I did and can tell the difference.
 
TedJones

TedJones

Well-Known Member
Yea nothing to go crazy over lol. I’ll probably dump them every few months or so to inspect. Some quick iso rinses in between to get any little bits out ;)
 
General Disaster

General Disaster

Of cabbages and Kings.
Jojofernz said:
Only way to know for sure is to dump out the Tempest balls lmaoo. So just wait till you feel it’s necessary but just a heads up mine can look white and clean shining a light down on and not til I dump them out do I see the staining and browning

Also best reason for cleaning them I’ve found is it improves taste/performance after lots of heavy use. It’s not a necessity for awhile if you don’t feel it is. But every time I’ve cleaned my balls, I’ve been really glad I did and can tell the difference.
Click to expand...
Well, I have one big advantage on it effecting taste and smell...
... I have very little of either! I can barely tell when a combust happens! (or not until far too late!).

I get the principles of the whole thing (cleaning, criteria for being dirty, etc), but have found careful use - I used to work in wet labs and phys chem etc. so very used to being a good technician in these ways, so I am (modesty aside) extremely good at treating (scientific) instruments carefully, so I doubt it's much problem, until it finally is and I'll just have to get down and dirty with cleaning up! <sigh!>.
It was more that some people seem to get really messed up heaters rather quickly, and that I think it could have much to do with technique. I accept some techniques may be messy but unavoidable (for the desired results).

Corvoed said:
Same for me, especially after a long hike
Click to expand...
🎵"These balls were made for walking, and that's just what I'll do..." 🎶

Jojofernz said:
Yeah if I’m not dumping the balls out but feel the head needs a clean I’ll just soak the whole thing in iso for a bit then rinse and dry
Click to expand...
I'd guess doing that a few more times than opening it all up and cleaning so well you're aiming to be able to see yourself in them, is going to be just as good, unless there's a really unseemly mess in there! I use these plastic test tubes about ½inch wide with stopper. Just chuck the parts to clean in there and cover with pure iso. Use a mug of hot water to warm it up (better solubility at higher temperature) while releasing pressure regularly, and give it a good disturbance - turning it upside down and back to wash the solvent around, gently shaking it.

Should see the iso getting gradually darker from clear, and this is what tells you how dirty the heater was (put in on its own of course).
Pour out the iso (collect up for the reclaim later?) and top up with a minimal amount of clean pure iso, repeat the process, is it getting yellow/brown at all? No? Then it's probably clean enough (even if not 100.000% perfect, it's a question of diminishing returns. If half the effort only removes the last 2% of crud, but takes half the total time, is it worth doing? Especially when after one or two hits on it, it'll likely have that 2% back again anyway!
May be better cleaning every three weeks but quick and easy like this, instead of every four or five weeks, but having to take a whole lot more time and effort?

Of course, as ever, it's a personal subjective matter for each to choose! Not wrong or right, just what suits and what works. I favour fast and efficient because it works just as well with less time and effort - but then I'm less sensitive to the finer smells and tastes!
 
General Disaster

General Disaster

Of cabbages and Kings.
Jojofernz said:
Honestly I wheeze more now than I ever did after 15+ years smoking lol I feel the vape makes me more allergic to the buds but love it too much
Click to expand...
Don't forget that tobacco (if you used it) is a vasodilator! Hence why so many old smokers cough their guts up in the morning, and reach for a smoke at the same time! 🤣 (I should know! 🙁)
 
General Disaster,
L

ljstavy

Active Member
so ive had my wand for over a year but since heating is different with a dynavap i have a question. So with the tempest i see people go till it goes to the time over flashing. does heating still go when the yellow led turns from flashing to solid? i thought when it goes solid it cuts off heating. Or when it goes solid does it retain its temp until time out?
 
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General Disaster

General Disaster

Of cabbages and Kings.
ljstavy said:
so ive had my wand for over a year but since heating is different with a dynavap i have a question. So with the tempest i see people go till it goes to the time over flashing. does heating still go when the yellow led turns from flashing to solid? i thought when it goes solid it cuts off heating. Or when it goes solid does it retain its temp until time out?
Click to expand...
Yeah, I thought that too, but not so, once it goes solid it carries on heating for something like 15 seconds, then goes out and stops heating.
I think that when it goes out completely, that's what's known often as running to the timeout. I've no idea if anything changes when the flashing stops, heating wise, or if it's just to warn of impending timeout, or what?
Maybe, when the flashing stops it means it's reached temperature, so the solid light warns you it's now going over temp?
 
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ljstavy

Active Member
General Disaster said:
Yeah, I thought that too, but not so, once it goes solid it carries on heating for something like 15 seconds, then goes out and stops heating.
I think that when it goes out completely, that's what's known often as running to the timeout. I've no idea if anything changes when the flashing stops, heating wise, or if it's just to warn of impending timeout, or what?
Maybe, when the flashing stops it means it's reached temperature, so the solid light warns you it's now going over temp?
Click to expand...
appreciate the info on this haha was a bit confused but now it makes sense!
 
ljstavy,
cybrguy

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
There is a wide range of methods that people are using to get the most out of their Tempest with the wand. I haven't posted about my technique, partially because it seems different from what most other people are describing. I have my wand set at 420F. I do a half bowl almost always. I have always had clicks that work pretty well and from cold I have found that I get the first click right about the time that the device stops blinking and I get the second click three to 5 seconds before the light goes out. I am no longer looking for the huge bowl busting hits, but I find this method allows me to take several smaller hits either directly on the device or in a water piece. I don't consider these hits small, they're just significantly smaller than trying to do a bowl buster which my lungs are not as capable of anymore. I almost always get one more go to reheat the device and get a few more hits depending on the strain. These days that is ideal use for me on the Tempest. And I find it quite effective and enjoyable.
 
T

TheHolySpook

New Member
cybrguy said:
There is a wide range of methods that people are using to get the most out of their Tempest with the wand. I haven't posted about my technique, partially because it seems different from what most other people are describing. I have my wand set at 420F. I do a half bowl almost always. I have always had clicks that work pretty well and from cold I have found that I get the first click right about the time that the device stops blinking and I get the second click three to 5 seconds before the light goes out. I am no longer looking for the huge bowl busting hits, but I find this method allows me to take several smaller hits either directly on the device or in a water piece. I don't consider these hits small, they're just significantly smaller than trying to do a bowl buster which my lungs are not as capable of anymore. I almost always get one more go to reheat the device and get a few more hits depending on the strain. These days that is ideal use for me on the Tempest. And I find it quite effective and enjoyable.
Click to expand...
I'm really excited to see you comment this. I've had my Tempest a week and half now and am still dialing it in. (I spent way too long no realizing I had it in half-bowl setting, and then my my mind was really blown). But I also have landed on 420F, and I load the full bowl partially to make it like a 3/4 bowl. I don't have clicks, but I get between the second and third notch, and that's perfect for me.

Since you seem similar to me, how do you keep your airflow on the cap? I ended up with it closed.
 
B

bellona0544

Well-Known Member
For the record, I truly do not mind the delay to April! I have some other vapes to keep me going until then and I love that @Brenyo is actually working on quality control to release a finished product rather than, say, something that costs $500 and then needs an immediate recall.
 
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bellona0544

Well-Known Member
I've read through pretty much every page in this thread and I am now realizing I don't think I've seen any users talking about the Tempest with some of the more powerful new induction heaters like the Forge or Inductor. Can anyone with both chime in?
 
bellona0544,
cybrguy

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
The head of the Tempest is too large for most of the current crop of induction heaters. That is why you will see most people using the wand. I think there is one other induction heater out there that will fit it, but other than that, their receivers are too small. I am not familiar with the two you mentioned so I don't know if they're receivers are larger than others.
 
T

TheScamericann

Active Member
bellona0544 said:
I've read through pretty much every page in this thread and I am now realizing I don't think I've seen any users talking about the Tempest with some of the more powerful new induction heaters like the Forge or Inductor. Can anyone with both chime in?
Click to expand...
The forge hasn't been released yet and the inductor might be a bit too much for the tempest.
 
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