The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie

[grognard3r]

Amazing tip for your tips!

There has been a lot of swapped ideas back and forth about what the best way to clean the balls in the tip of the Tempest.

I have stumbled upon (what I think is) the absolute best tip to unclog any mess on your Zirconia balls!

The best part is you do not need to soak in ISO and/or take the balls out. Just leave your balls where they are, and you can get them spotless!
Secret fear: someday I will drop the Tempest and dislodge the balls. I remember a post from months ago when this happened to someone else. I sure hope I did not tempt the Gods with that statement.

Get yourself a mega torch. I mean BIG!

Click on that above link to take you to the profile of the "Big Buddy" torch by Blazer so you know what to look for. The price is in US dollars, but for those of you outside the US, I am sure you can find that big-ass Blazer torch in a local tobacco shop. I do not recommend buying from that Blazer website, and I REALLY do not recommend the Blazer PB 207 (for things like Tempests or Dynavaps). I bought my Big Buddy from a brick and mortar tobacco store.

*******************Warning: I DO NOT recommend the Big Buddy torch to heat up anything to inhale. Use this ONLY for cleaning purposes. I originally got this mega torch to try out the VHB Glass Slide. One of the links on that page shows just how large a flame you need to heat the glass up. Btw, that VHB slide is a (clunky) "relative" to the Tempest if you see how it works (except on the Tempest, there is no slide that goes up/down).

BEST METHOD to clean Zirconia balls
(sorry, I can't load photos today); maybe later in the week):

1.
Remove the cap with the spring and VI at the tip top. Set it aside on a magnet. Then remove the outer shell that you rotate to open/close the tip's airpath. You want the tip of the Tempest as naked as you can get it.

2.
Find some sturdy tweezers, and they need to be big, like here. In that link, I used the tweezers second from the left. Lodge the ends of the tweezers into the tip of the Tempest so that they rest just below the screen that holds the balls in place. Make sure the hold is firmly in place.

3.
Be sure you have a safe place to gently place a massively burning Tempest tip in a moment to cool! I made the mistake of placing it inside Scruffy Woofers cooling stand, and the tip was soooo hot that it loosened the magnet from the base. I was able to fix that, but I recommend being right next to a hunk of metal where you can place the tip the moment you are done throwing flame onto it.

4.
Use the Big Buddy flame to encase the Tempest tip so that it glows. Just bathe those balls in fire for about 20 seconds. Your Tempest head will glow to a dark red. Maybe I was imagining it, but I thought I could see the balls through the glowing walls.

*********************ONE MORE WARNING: keep the flame located ONLY on the area with balls. If the flame slips lower down, it will leave a scorch mark. My Tempest head is black, so visually it is hard to see the scorch, but it is there. I can live with that scorch mark, but some of you might not be cool with a blemish like that. I hope you avoid this, especially if you have other colors that would show more visibly if it had been heated to an extreme.

5.
Let that head cool off for a LONG time. I do not recommend placing the heated head on a piece of metal and then placing that metal on something else, like a wooden table or plastic. Just put the head down and leave it alone.

Once you re-attach everything to your Tempest, I am 100% sure you will notice a HUGE difference in air flow.

I have had a Tempest since the beginning of December 2023; until now, my cleaning routine had included bathing the balls in ISO. I will no longer use that method. I had been under the impression that ISO had been enough to clean the gunk, but man, I was wrong! It really blew my mind what a difference there now is in ease of airflow. I truly recommend cleaning this way.

I hope this helps someone!

Btw, today I entertained the idea of selling all my former vapes off in a bundle. I have some great Dynavaps, Simrell stems, a Mighty, and a Venty. I'd take that money from my former vapes, and get another Tempest. I don't use/need any of the others now that I have my Tempest. If I could pick one vape to go with me to an isolated island (with lots of herb), it would be the Tempest hands down.

Also, I simply have to say that this Tempest is one product that I could get behind as a salesperson. I have not really felt that way about any other product in my life so far.

How many of you live in areas of the world where cannabis is legal, and you often have companies, such as Mad, come into the dispensary to market their products? I bet if Mad came to set up shop in one of the local dispensaries here (in CA), they could sell a ton of those Tempests. As a bonus besides making a ton of money via Tempest sales, Mad could road trip around California--and try out the famous weed in their famous vape.

 

[VapingYogi]

When everything is working together, the Tempest gives you two ways to manage the temperature.

So here’s a really simple video of the Tempest in the Wand to demonstrate the two temperature indicators:

The Visual Indicator and the auditory click discs..

Also… ever heated your device but weren’t quite happy with how much vapour your getting and wanted to add more heat? In this video I’m trying to practice adding additional heat during a session while trying to avoid combustion… this one’s on the line.

Side notes… I need to breathe quieter…

 

[General Disaster]

Amazing tip for your tips!

There has been a lot of swapped ideas back and forth about what the best way to clean the balls in the tip of the Tempest.

I have stumbled upon (what I think is) the absolute best tip to unclog any mess on your Zirconia balls!

The best part is you do not need to soak in ISO and/or take the balls out. Just leave your balls where they are, and you can get them spotless!
Secret fear: someday I will drop the Tempest and dislodge the balls. I remember a post from months ago when this happened to someone else. I sure hope I did not tempt the Gods with that statement.

Get yourself a mega torch. I mean BIG!

Click on that above link to take you to the profile of the "Big Buddy" torch by Blazer so you know what to look for. The price is in US dollars, but for those of you outside the US, I am sure you can find that big-ass Blazer torch in a local tobacco shop. I do not recommend buying from that Blazer website, and I REALLY do not recommend the Blazer PB 207 (for things like Tempests or Dynavaps). I bought my Big Buddy from a brick and mortar tobacco store.

*******************Warning: I DO NOT recommend the Big Buddy torch to heat up anything to inhale. Use this ONLY for cleaning purposes. I originally got this mega torch to try out the VHB Glass Slide. One of the links on that page shows just how large a flame you need to heat the glass up. Btw, that VHB slide is a (clunky) "relative" to the Tempest if you see how it works (except on the Tempest, there is no slide that goes up/down).

BEST METHOD to clean Zirconia balls
(sorry, I can't load photos today); maybe later in the week):

1.
Remove the cap with the spring and VI at the tip top. Set it aside on a magnet. Then remove the outer shell that you rotate to open/close the tip's airpath. You want the tip of the Tempest as naked as you can get it.

2.
Find some sturdy tweezers, and they need to be big, like here. In that link, I used the tweezers second from the left. Lodge the ends of the tweezers into the tip of the Tempest so that they rest just below the screen that holds the balls in place. Make sure the hold is firmly in place.

3.
Be sure you have a safe place to gently place a massively burning Tempest tip in a moment to cool! I made the mistake of placing it inside Scruffy Woofers cooling stand, and the tip was soooo hot that it loosened the magnet from the base. I was able to fix that, but I recommend being right next to a hunk of metal where you can place the tip the moment you are done throwing flame onto it.

4.
Use the Big Buddy flame to encase the Tempest tip so that it glows. Just bathe those balls in fire for about 20 seconds. Your Tempest head will glow to a dark red. Maybe I was imagining it, but I thought I could see the balls through the glowing walls.

*********************ONE MORE WARNING: keep the flame located ONLY on the area with balls. If the flame slips lower down, it will leave a scorch mark. My Tempest head is black, so visually it is hard to see the scorch, but it is there. I can live with that scorch mark, but some of you might not be cool with a blemish like that. I hope you avoid this, especially if you have other colors that would show more visibly if it had been heated to an extreme.

5.
Let that head cool off for a LONG time. I do not recommend placing the heated head on a piece of metal and then placing that metal on something else, like a wooden table or plastic. Just put the head down and leave it alone.

Once you re-attach everything to your Tempest, I am 100% sure you will notice a HUGE difference in air flow.

I have had a Tempest since the beginning of December 2023; until now, my cleaning routine had included bathing the balls in ISO. I will no longer use that method. I had been under the impression that ISO had been enough to clean the gunk, but man, I was wrong! It really blew my mind what a difference there now is in ease of airflow. I truly recommend cleaning this way.

I hope this helps someone!

Btw, today I entertained the idea of selling all my former vapes off in a bundle. I have some great Dynavaps, Simrell stems, a Mighty, and a Venty. I'd take that money from my former vapes, and get another Tempest. I don't use/need any of the others now that I have my Tempest. If I could pick one vape to go with me to an isolated island (with lots of herb), it would be the Tempest hands down.

Also, I simply have to say that this Tempest is one product that I could get behind as a salesperson. I have not really felt that way about any other product in my life so far.

How many of you live in areas of the world where cannabis is legal, and you often have companies, such as Mad, come into the dispensary to market their products? I bet if Mad came to set up shop in one of the local dispensaries here (in CA), they could sell a ton of those Tempests. As a bonus besides making a ton of money via Tempest sales, Mad could road trip around California--and try out the famous weed in their famous vape.

Interesting method, though I'll stick to the 'Procrastination Method'. This involves letting it get so messed up it's unusable, then generating a bit of VAS, and popping out for a new vape! This only works as long as you always continue telling yourself you'll clean out the old one tomorrow!

More seriously, while mine's only just coming up to it's first cleaning time (I wasn't completely joking about procrastination!), I would be considering a more hybrid method if I used heat-cleaning, and that would be to soak in iso or iso/water first (whole cap intact) to remove the worse of it, then apply the heat afterwards to remove what's left.
But then I've not tried yet, so we'll see?

As for selling Tempest's, from the speed at which the beta's have flown off the virtual shelves, I'm not sure MH are struggling to find customers yet (have you seen their ratings/reviews on Trustpilot?). Just being here (FC) captures a potentially global market of interested persons (who'll pass info on to friends, etc) , but visiting a single location (that's also oversea's) isn't likely to get enough extra business on it's own, for the trouble time and cost. It would indeed be great to be able to at least handle vapes before buying, but them's the breaks in this sort of market I guess (plus, I'm in a non-legal country, so feel unfairly jealous that others can do this!)
I'm not even sure how many (if any) people are working for Brenyo @MH? I would think resources spent on design, production and distribution are the top priority.
But then what do I know? Couldn't run a business to save my life!

It can! There’s few options to send air back up towards the bowl, to join the air from the cap. Or traditional carb air to mouth, or closed off completely of course

Actually, it's worth taking a look at the manual for the Revolve G2 on Mad Heaters site (as a pdf in the Manuals section).
It's almost identical to the pests stem. There's one small setting extra to the pest, but otherwise seems essentially the same.
You'll see there are two main airflow modes depending on which of the two inner tubes you use, each of which can have an inner spiralled cooler/condenser. Then for each of those there are three major adjustments (on the fly) to control how the air flows into the vapour (or not).

Then you can also, for each of those settings, adjust the heads air vents (as described in posts above).
The Tempest manual (https://madheaters.co.uk/pages/tempest-manual) also shows this but in much less detail (currently at least). But gives an idea of what's available to play with.

Side notes… I need to breathe quieter…

It sounded more to me like the glass was amplifying it, to be honest!

I think I've said this already so 'pologies for repeats if it is one - I heat with the pest horizontal and Wand on it's side.
Set to 590℉. It heats for about 30 seconds (give or take depending on ambient temp etc), VI sits on third notch.
I take one or two DTL draws to get some nice light clouds (flavourful if I had olfactory that worked).
This takes the VI down by about a notch (depending on those first draw(s)).
I pop it back in the Wand and this time use the manual option, give it 5 to 10 seconds (depending on how low the VI had gone).
Check the VI, and then top up for another few seconds depending on how toasty I want it. High roast I put the VI just above third notch.
The draws after that second heat-up in the Wand are big, really big. A loose packed bowl will probably give up three quarters of the vapour in that (deep DTL) draw. This would also be the best MTL point as well.

I know it's very subjective and personal, but so far this has given me the closest to what I want out of the 'pest.

 

[BushRanger]

Had to drop it down to the cooler already

Watch Tempest with torch | Streamable

Watch "Tempest with torch" on Streamable.

streamable.com

 

[TedJones]

Actually, it's worth taking a look at the manual for the Revolve G2 on Mad Heaters site (as a pdf in the Manuals section).

Yea that updated manual is better than the original. I did a vid after a couple weeks having it on stem airflow

After trying the various settings and having it broken down a few times, here’s a quick vid with more thoughts on all these cool options. Sorry, table was a bit shaky..

@grognard3r that’s quite the technique! Using the head instead of a spoon essentially. Question though, how do you know how clean you got them without a visual? No matter, as long as it was an improvement I guess

Had rubies in another vape that I just torched clean. They got dark while heating and lost most of the red coloring. A minute or two cooldown brought them back to life!

 

[General Disaster]

Yea that updated manual is better than the original. I did a vid after a couple weeks having it on stem airflow

@grognard3r that’s quite the technique! Using the head instead of a spoon essentially. Question though, how do you know how clean you got them without a visual? No matter, as long as it was an improvement I guess

Had rubies in another vape that I just torched clean. They got dark while heating and lost most of the red coloring. A minute or two cooldown brought them back to life!

I think the doping in the crystal structure is bonded right in there, as integral part of the structure as the AlO or ZnO (or whatever) which it sits in.
Since it's the doping that also gives the colour, I'd guess you'd have to get them hot enough to break down the crystal lattice bonds. If you can get it that hot, I suspect you'll have more to worry about with molten steel etc!
Natural rubies can, I believe, take an enormous temp and pressure under the earth, so pretty resistant to damage I'd say.

 

[bupbups]

Howdy y'all

What's the best way to clean the stainless steel cap to bring back up a shine?

 

[Texus]

Well, the Tempest has arrived. As someone who owns an OG TA, I had a good idea what I was getting into. And the finish and construction are really well done.

Main issue so far was the same complaint I had about my Revolve stem: the metal on the stem (even up by the stem's carb hole) can get pretty hot after a long (590) single cycle in the Wand, and then hotter still when it is time to reheat or for the next hit.

I may try to see if I can find a way for my Anvil heatsheild to fit on the Tempest or look for a wooden option. And may not be an issue with the Inductor but I'd really like an outdoors combo of Tempest and Wand.

And great flavor and solid rip on the first go. Do I think I will renounce all of my other vapes and just live the Tempest life? Not liklely. But really like the versatility and quality of the hit. Didn't hit as hard as the Anvil/Thermocore/Inductor combo, nor can it be puffed on as long, but a nice new vape ecosystem that ticks a lot of boxes with lots of ways to dial it in to your preferences. Let the dialing in begin! As soon as it cools down that is...

 

[VapingYogi]

Well, the Tempest has arrived. As someone who owns an OG TA, I had a good idea what I was getting into. And the finish and construction are really well done.

Main issue so far was the same complaint I had about my Revolve stem: the metal on the stem (even up by the stem's carb hole) can get pretty hot after a long (590) single cycle in the Wand, and then hotter still when it is time to reheat or for the next hit.

I may try to see if I can find a way for my Anvil heatsheild to fit on the Tempest or look for a wooden option. And may not be an issue with the Inductor but I'd really like an outdoors combo of Tempest and Wand.

And great flavor and solid rip on the first go. Do I think I will renounce all of my other vapes and just live the Tempest life? Not liklely. But really like the versatility and quality of the hit. Didn't hit as hard as the Anvil/Thermocore/Inductor combo, nor can it be puffed on as long, but a nice new vape ecosystem that ticks a lot of boxes with lots of ways to dial it in to your preferences. Let the dialing in begin! As soon as it cools down that is...

The wooden sleeve makes a big difference regarding the heat just an fyi

 

[grognard3r]

@grognard3r that’s quite the technique! Using the head instead of a spoon essentially. Question though, how do you know how clean you got them without a visual? No matter, as long as it was an improvement I guess

No spoon.

The idea of having to put the balls back in place and properly tightening the screen is NOT something I want to try.

I KNOW the balls are clean without a visual because the airflow in the tip (once I had assembled it again) was FANTASTIC! The airflow improvement was markedly noticeable from before the clean. In fact, I remember a "clean whistle" sound from the head when I tested it cold for airflow (no herb).

My next session with GMO and totally clean balls: the flavor came out even MORE than usual. Thus, whatever grime that had been gooing up the balls was burned off to hell.

Oh, and I closed off the airflow tip 100% and got fabulous air flow.

I would not have posted my method here as confidently as I did had I not been so thoroughly convinced myself. I need not remove the balls; they stay put. That alone is the bonus.

More seriously, while mine's only just coming up to it's first cleaning time (I wasn't completely joking about procrastination!), I would be considering a more hybrid method if I used heat-cleaning, and that would be to soak in iso or iso/water first (whole cap intact) to remove the worse of it, then apply the heat afterwards to remove what's left.

I'll do that hybrid with iso, too, but be cautious of flaming alcohol dripping from the Tempest head. Blow as much iso out as you can before putting it under a flamethrower.

 

[VapingYogi]

I have noticed that the Zrc balls get stained over time, so no matter the cleaning time spent, the 100% iso or time in the sonic glass cleaner, the stain sticks. Blowtorching / heat can get it off but as it doesn't affect the function I don't see the point. Once the iso has changed colour, the balls are usually clean and as @grognard3r said you can tell by the performance if the balls are dirty or not; its a better indicator than looking at them.

I just soak the cap in warm iso for a quick clean and then run it under hot water while sitting it in a strainer (mesh one with holes smaller than 2mm) so if for some reason I knock the screen out I catch the balls.

I have had to once take it all apart and use friction to get some gunk out of the airholes in the top of the tempest but, it has been one time in the last 4 months.

 

[General Disaster]

Main issue so far was the same complaint I had about my Revolve stem: the metal on the stem (even up by the stem's carb hole) can get pretty hot after a long (590) single cycle in the Wand, and then hotter still when it is time to reheat or for the next hit.

I thnk this is more just a side effect of how good the Revolve is at cooling. All that heat has to go somewhere, and the Revolve's metal is the only place, so it gets hot, and the better it cools the vapour the hotter it gets. A wooden sleeve insulates it so you can hold it, but also reduces the ability to dump that excess heat into the environment, so it doesn't cool as quickly, hence it won't cool the vapour as much on subsequent hits (unless left to cool for a few mins).

I was thinking about this t'other day, and thought some sort of conducting material (sheet, wires, dunno) on the inner (heat facing) surface of the sleeve, could conduct heat away to a small radiator of some kind, maybe even use a peltier effect, to actively cool rather than just passive, but then power is needed (although it's possible all that heat could be used to provide some current with thermoelectric effect - that would be elegant, but I doubt would really work well enough? Anyone knows the math?).

Of course, when someone comes up with a cheap convenient room temp super conductor, we'll all be laughing! All your cooling problems sorted!

No spoon.

The idea of having to put the balls back in place and properly tightening the screen is NOT something I want to try.

I KNOW the balls are clean without a visual because the airflow in the tip (once I had assembled it again) was FANTASTIC! The airflow improvement was markedly noticeable from before the clean. In fact, I remember a "clean whistle" sound from the head when I tested it cold for airflow (no herb).

My next session with GMO and totally clean balls: the flavor came out even MORE than usual. Thus, whatever grime that had been gooing up the balls was burned off to hell.

Oh, and I closed off the airflow tip 100% and got fabulous air flow.

I would not have posted my method here as confidently as I did had I not been so thoroughly convinced myself. I need not remove the balls; they stay put. That alone is the bonus.



I'll do that hybrid with iso, too, but be cautious of flaming alcohol dripping from the Tempest head. Blow as much iso out as you can before putting it under a flamethrower.
Click to expand...

No worries, I know how to handle solvents! <sniiiiiiff, sniiiiiiff!>

 

[Texus]

The wooden sleeve makes a big difference regarding the heat just an fyi

I thnk this is more just a side effect of how good the Revolve is at cooling. All that heat has to go somewhere, and the Revolve's metal is the only place, so it gets hot, and the better it cools the vapour the hotter it gets. A wooden sleeve insulates it so you can hold it, but also reduces the ability to dump that excess heat into the environment, so it doesn't cool as quickly, hence it won't cool the vapour as much on subsequent hits (unless left to cool for a few mins).

Yes, I think a wooden sleeve or stem is in order. Need to look into those options. A very positive spin that the heat is becuase the Tempest just cools too well. Still feels like a weakness compared to stems from a variety of makers who are able to better dissipate heat. Dynavap, Simrell, Anvil, Tectonic, etc. But this is just Gen 1.

And not that I am not enjoying the Tempest. Far from it. But it is a ding for me. Maybe less of an issue for torch users.

 

[General Disaster]

Yes, I think a wooden sleeve or stem is in order. Need to look into those options. A very positive spin that the heat is becuase the Tempest just cools too well. Still feels like a weakness compared to stems from a variety of makers who are able to better dissipate heat. Dynavap, Simrell, Anvil, Tectonic, etc. But this is just Gen 1.

And not that I am not enjoying the Tempest. Far from it. But it is a ding for me. Maybe less of an issue for torch users.

Well I'm an ingenue to this game of portable ball-vapes and similar devices like anvils and such. So learning a lot as I go still.
My take from my own experience with the similar stem of the Tempest, and what I've read/seen from others - reviews, forum msgs, etc. that the Revolve G2 is about as good as it gets from a simple basis of cooling the vapour, for the size of the device.

I think one adaptation of the pest stem from the revolve was the addition of that slotted metal sleeve, allowing heat to dissipate from the inner fins, while providing some insulation from the heat.

While there are some truly lovely handmade stems that are as much artwork as functional, I'm going for one of these, with the simple bobbin PP sells for it (the thought that if he makes an adapter specially for the Revolve G2, then it's almost certainly proved useable with a TA).
Depending on how it plays out, I'd like to get a nice wooden sleeve for it, but that's a wait n' see job.

 

[bupbups]

Howdy y'all

What's the best way to clean the stainless steel cap to bring back up a shine?

Anyone able to help with this, my tip is fairly discoloured and would love to bring it back to life (visitors later today)

 

[BreadStick]

Anyone able to help with this, my tip is fairly discoloured and would love to bring it back to life (visitors later today)

I was able to clean the patina off my anvil using bar keepers friend. I googled there and the main active ingredient is oxalic acid if you can't find the bar keepers. The bottle I bought was the powdered kind, I mixed some of the powder with a drop of water to make a paste and I left the parts to soak for a while. I was then able to scrub the patina off using a toothbrush. I would rinse the part too see how much patina was left then recover everything with the paste and continue scrubbing. It took me ages but I let the patina build on my anvil for nearly 2 years before I polished it!

 

[bupbups]

I was able to clean the patina off my anvil using bar keepers friend. I googled there and the main active ingredient is oxalic acid if you can't find the bar keepers. The bottle I bought was the powdered kind, I mixed some of the powder with a drop of water to make a paste and I left the parts to soak for a while. I was then able to scrub the patina off using a toothbrush. I would rinse the part too see how much patina was left then recover everything with the paste and continue scrubbing. It took me ages but I let the patina build on my anvil for nearly 2 years before I polished it!

Thanks for this, think I'm all out of oxalic acid but

Would ye think baking soda would be ok?

 

[cybrguy]

The wooden sleeve makes a big difference regarding the heat just an fyi

I don't have a Tempest wooden sleeve yet, but I have been effectively using a revolve one recently.

thnk this is more just a side effect of how good the Revolve is at cooling. All that heat has to go somewhere, and the Revolve's metal is the only place, so it gets hot, and the better it cools the vapour the hotter it gets. A wooden sleeve insulates it so you can hold it, but also reduces the ability to dump that excess heat into the environment, so it doesn't cool as quickly, hence it won't cool the vapour as much on subsequent hits (unless left to cool for a few mins).

The Tempest Head has a lot more mass than a vapcap tip so it's not a surprise that it has a lot more heat to shed and that will go to the stem if it has no other place to go and can't radiate it. I will admit that all this heat does lead me to waiting between goes with the Tempest sometimes. If I'm at home, I just grab another vape for the next session.

Thanks for this, think I'm all out of oxalic acid but

Would ye think baking soda would be ok?

I worry that anything with enough grit to do this job might also thin out the stainless (over time) and potentially damage it.

 

[General Disaster]

Thanks for this, think I'm all out of oxalic acid but

Would ye think baking soda would be ok?

I would very cautious about that. It's main action would be more likely simple abrasion.
Baking soda is a mild alikali - a base. But oxalic acid, is, surprisingly, an acid, the opposite of an alkali.
I presume the reason oxalic is used is because of that mild (it's a weak organic acid (weak is not the same as dilute! It's to do with the strength of it's ability to react with another compound)) acidic action on the steel. A mineral acid (like HCl or HNO3, which are classed as strong acids) would probably start to dissolve the metal!

If oxalic is unavailable, then you could try some other weak acids - tartaric acid could be worth trying, citric even, and vinegar too, although vinegar as a liquid would lack any abrasive action, but could help if nothing better.

I would imagine a fine metal polish, like for silver or brass, may work well too, but I don't know for sure not having tried it. Probably the main thing would be ensuring it's all cleaned off afterwards.

I don't have a Tempest wooden sleeve yet, but I have been effectively using a revolve one recently.

Do you mean using a Revolve (with wooden sleeve) with the Tempest head and bowl, or using the Revolve's wooden sleeve on the Tempest stem?
And how do find the difference?

 

[bupbups]

Thanks for the replies and makes sense about the baking soda I'll try some vinegar and lemon juice.

 

[cybrguy]

Do you mean using a Revolve (with wooden sleeve) with the Tempest head and bowl, or using the Revolve's wooden sleeve on the Tempest stem?
And how do find the difference?

Yes, I am using one of the wooden sleeves from my Revolve on my Tempest. I haven't tried sticking the Tempest head on a Revolve but I suspect that would work well too. The cooling units between the two are very similar. The biggest differences may be in the mouthpieces, which are, of course, interchangeable. (More the air flow tubes, I guess)

 

[HaggisHunter]

Still feels like a weakness compared to stems from a variety of makers who are able to better dissipate heat. Dynavap, Simrell, Anvil, Tectonic, etc. But this is just Gen 1.

Is there any particular stems you mean?
Every Dynavap stem I've tried the tempest on was totally unusable for me, they can't deal with the heat from the head. I wasn't expecting them to work given the extra heat that comes through the native stem, but I wanted to try some anyway.
Would be interested to hear how a simrell copes if you use one of those.
I remember my older simrell being mega hot as well after back to back Dynavap bowls.

I think what @General Disaster was saying about the outer getting hot because it's doing the work inside is definitely right, the heat needs to go somewhere.

A few days after I got my tempest, I swapped the head with the Dynavap tip on my revolve gen 2.
The tempest head on the revolve gen 2 with titanium sleeve, it still vapes fine, but the vapor felt warmer on the back of my throat, but the titanium sleeve got so hot that using it wasn't much fun as it was enough to draw attention.
Running my main Dynavap tip+armoured cap+CCD spacer (for extra mass) on the tempest stem with heat shield etc, 3/4 back to back bowls and it managed fine, it was warm but it wasn't uncomfortable.

The wooden sleeves do make a difference but I'd rather the heat was on the outside than in the vapor.

 

[General Disaster]

Yes, I am using one of the wooden sleeves from my Revolve on my Tempest. I haven't tried sticking the Tempest head on a Revolve but I suspect that would work well too. The cooling units between the two are very similar. The biggest differences may be in the mouthpieces, which are, of course, interchangeable. (More the air flow tubes, I guess)

Cool! Nice to know they fit both stems! Far as I can see the Revolve is nigh on the same bar the outer sleeve and the Revolves extra MTL/DTL setting near the mouthpiece.

Well I bloody well hope TA works on a Revolve since that was the direction I've gone in (so much for servicing the car this month!).
I mainly made the plunge (above and beyond it being an excellent bit of kit by all accounts, plus using the tempest stem) because PP has links with MH, and is providing wooden bobbins to fit the Revolve for exactly that purpose, so while the stem isn't officially approved for the TA, neither PP or MH seem to think there are serious show stoppers, beyond managing the extra heat.

Ultimately, I'd really like to feed my inner art aficionado and get a sleeve from PP for it, but I have this sinking feeling it'll cost close to the original kit!
But who knows, maybe he does some 'budget' versions for the Brits, knowing most of us have to claim benefits when in full time work, pay is so low nowadays!
My soul is nearly new ("you lying sod, GD! It's antique!") and fully dealer serviced (pun intended), maybe a contract signed in my blood would get me a picture of one of them at least?

A few days after I got my tempest, I swapped the head with the Dynavap tip on my revolve gen 2.
The tempest head on the revolve gen 2 with titanium sleeve, it still vapes fine, but the vapor felt warmer on the back of my throat, but the titanium sleeve got so hot that using it wasn't much fun as it was enough to draw attention.
Running my main Dynavap tip+armoured cap+CCD spacer (for extra mass) on the tempest stem with heat shield etc, 3/4 back to back bowls and it managed fine, it was warm but it wasn't uncomfortable.

The wooden sleeves do make a difference but I'd rather the heat was on the outside than in the vapor.

That's interesting to hear!
I figured this was why the pest has that slotted sleeve, allowing much more convection from the radiator fins underneath. And from what you say, that sounds right. Of course, the Revolve was most designed to work with DV heads in the main (I believe), so much much less heat to deal with.

So, how about a water cooled wooden sleeve then?
Use an AIO watercooler from a PC CPU, big 5v battery in one jacket pocket, radiator hanging from a chain round your neck like a medallion, pump in the other jacket pocket, with the tubes coming out and into the stem, and then to the radiator?
What's not to like about that, I ask you?
Could even string some flashing multicoloured LED's around the tubing! Just so it works even better!!

 

[kegstandman420]

I was saying earlier about wishing for a bigger bowl, and this whole time it was in half bowl . Idk if it was just mine or a 1 off but I'm pretty sure I received it in half bowl. Maybe just a heads up for others to keep in mind. Now to try and remove this mouthpiece.

 

[General Disaster]

I was saying earlier about wishing for a bigger bowl, and this whole time it was in half bowl . Idk if it was just mine or a 1 off but I'm pretty sure I received it in half bowl. Maybe just a heads up for others to keep in mind. Now to try and remove this mouthpiece.

Me too, came in half bowl mode, which makes sense as it's easier to go to full, than the opposite direction. I tried a couple, which worked very well, but too small. I found a looser packed full bowl works great for trying to do as few draws, to make up for the deeper bowl not getting so hot at the bottom with a thicker layer of weed in it. So not putting a huge amount more in there in full bowl mode, but allowing better airflow through it.

Also, I found it much easier to pull the stem apart when it was still warm from use, especially if it's been used a while and got a bit of reclaim inside.