You could. Is that vong even lined? I don't think that's a good purchase imo. You will be better of with a BB3/6/9 if you want a Dyna stem that is a WPA. All glass and cheap.
The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie
- Thread starter oddjobold
- Start date
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
It could be used but for my own use I don't use a cooling stem when I'm using a water piece. That's kind of redundant and unnecessary to me. I generally feel it's only worth the cleanup necessary in a cooling stem when I'm using it native without water. I might use it if I were using a dry glass piece, but I don't generally use dry glass.
Added: The cooling unit for the revolve and the Tempest are very similar, with the Tempest virtually being the Revolve Gen 3. I think the Tempest stem cools a little better, but that might be in my head. Here is a Revolve gen 2 with a wood stem using the Revolve cooling unit.
I absolutely prefer the substantially longer application of heat that the tempest provides, but I still occasionally use a VapCap tip and cap instead of the Tempest head. They are pretty much interchangeable as regards the fit.
I do intend to get a wood stem made for Tempest when I get my updated parts and second head.
Last edited:
Petetbay
Well-Known Member
The Tempest or Revolve cooling units/mp will not work with that DV stem, wrong length and air hole doesn’t line up with the cu. The best bet is the Tempest wood or glass stems with cu or a DV mp/condenser or Simrell Stinger in the DV Hydravong stem.
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
I've never tried to use a Vapcap stem with my Tempest parts. All of my vongs use a condenser so obviously that would not work with the Tempest internals. A condenserless stem might work depending upon who made it and what the inside diameter was. These varied a bit depending on who the maker was. But they are not interchangeable like Revolve and Tempest are which is really what I was thinking about when I posted and if they do have air holes, they will not line up as @Petetbay said above.
_Eladamri_
Member
ironically, if you use it, it pulls more heat out of the vapour, but takes it in as a heatsink - thus making the mouthpiece warmer
(even hot sometimes depending on our style of heat up cycles) Misterhyde
Well-Known Member
I use my Tempest on a normal vong stem, not the hydravong, with no issues. I only use it through glass with this configuration though. The top crown will get hella hot.
TheScamericann
Active Member
Folk should try not tamping their load down at all. I've been doing this the past 2 nights and it's defo my preferred way to vape with the tempest now. I don't tamp the load i just brush any loose bits off the side with my finger. Been getting massive rips and able to kill the bowl quicker.
Octavia
No thoughts, head empty
_Eladamri_
Member
yes - indeed. this to prevent charring at the top of the bowl, and uneaven roasting. anyone got any tips to prevent uneven roasts ?
TheScamericann
Active Member
Not tamping seems to give me a pretty even roast
Yes, as the threads are nearing the end it'll get tighter so you can lock it in place. It won't bend unless you force it, you'll know when to stop, it can be tightened properly. Yes it will be adjusted ofc.
What is the maximum amount of 2.5 ball you can fit with this new method?
shadymilkman
Well-Known Member
n-1 or 2
Just had the nightmare scenario happen to me last night 
Based off of @Brenyo and @VapingYogi recommendation, I have some 3mm Zirc balls coming tomorrow.
If we’re using less balls, are we simply able to make up for it by being more aggressive with the Tempest-Wand placement and/or increase the temp to maintain the same experience?
Based off of @Brenyo and @VapingYogi recommendation, I have some 3mm Zirc balls coming tomorrow.
If we’re using less balls, are we simply able to make up for it by being more aggressive with the Tempest-Wand placement and/or increase the temp to maintain the same experience?
TedJones
Well-Known Member
Just guessing it’s on the shorter side of his post a bit ago. 80 ish?
Pretty negligible imo. Only 2 or 3 balls removed (3mm) should give more room
VapingYogi
Pranayama; of a sort.
I find the 3mm to be less temperamental/sensitive so a little bit more heat is less likely to cause the bowl to scorch as compared the the smaller balls. The flip side is the airflow is noticeably improved; but with that improvement there is a slight decrease in the density of the vapour produced. For the the best performance from the 3mm Zrc's, you might like to close the airflow on the cap a little more than you did with the 2.5mm and/or try slowing down how fast you draw breath through the device to get the same density of vapour and to maintain the heat retention as the extra air cools the device quicker.
I tend to heat the 3mm Zrc to the third mark of the VI and then wait until it starts to come back (just twitch is enough) the other way and then hit it. When I was comparing the 2.5mm and the 3mm doing the same thing (the heating method above) I would find the bowl was more likely to be scorched when I overheated it.
TedJones
Well-Known Member
Lil Wake & Bake 
day!
day!
BushRanger
Hit It & Quit It
Can someone please post the VI assembly video? Did a deep clean and can't seem to get everything together now...
TedJones
Well-Known Member
VapingYogi
Pranayama; of a sort.
That's the one I used.
BushRanger
Hit It & Quit It
That's how I mounted it. Handling could been a little rough...it seems when torching it until glowing, only gets to first VI mark...looks like I messed the calibration
Can you take out the coil again and send a picture of it please? It looks fine installedThat's how I mounted it. Handling could been a little rough...it seems when torching it until glowing, only gets to first VI mark...looks like I messed the calibration
BushRanger
Hit It & Quit It
Will take pics of disassembled coil as soon as I get home...went out to test it as it is lol
Singularity Walker
Well-Known Member
Also make sure the tail of the VI coil went out through the hole. Sometimes it likes to go back in and that'll offset the positions.