Honi soit qui mal y pense
Cause there is another one about (2.0)
Hey guys very new to this site I apologize if I'm am putting this in the wrong spot but am a little desperate I have a dab master xlr 2.0 and as you guessed it the mc has fucked off on me i haven't taken it apart yet thought I'd run some questions threw first i have found some posts on bypassing the mc and adding in a dimmer switch and a watt meter? I think I would like to go this route because I don't like the mc as it is the timer along with the short cord is enough to drive you crazy and now that is is broken I don't have much option is this simple to do? And or worth it as appose to buying a new v3 setup? The mc lights up and will show all 12 lights but absolutely no heat is being created at the head I have the titanium head of that means anything to anyone Any and all help would be appreciated as the sub is down and already miss it lol thanks guys hope to hear from youHave you opened it up?
Take picture of it and post it up here... anything obliviously come undone?
Hey guys very new to this site I apologize if I'm am putting this in the wrong spot but am a little desperate I have a dab master xlr 2.0 and as you guessed it the mc has fucked off on me i haven't taken it apart yet thought I'd run some questions threw first i have found some posts on bypassing the mc and adding in a dimmer switch and a watt meter? I think I would like to go this route because I don't like the mc as it is the timer along with the short cord is enough to drive you crazy and now that is is broken I don't have much option is this simple to do? And or worth it as appose to buying a new v3 setup? The mc lights up and will show all 12 lights but absolutely no heat is being created at the head I have the titanium head of that means anything to anyone Any and all help would be appreciated as the sub is down and already miss it lol thanks guys hope to hear from you
This is what happened to my MC, my solder points failed and the PCB ended up shorting.My mbox controller stopped working, I opened it to find a snapped pin on one side of the power jack plug to board connection. 1 minute of soldering and done. Hopefully you have something simple and similar and I reckon most anyone could attempt that type of repair. Easier than bypassing the box.
My power lead coming into the mbox snapped because you can see the plastic case was putting pressure on the power lead -jack connector solder joint as nothing lined up correctly lol. I Needed to file out the hole bigger to relieve pressure from the solder joint. I bet a lot of others are similar just depends whether the solder connections can withstand the pressure.
Hey man thanks for the reply I am going to get a volt meter today to check also how would I check the continuity of the heater? Everything looks ok also I pulled the box apart last night to find a chunk of soder rolling around inside when I popped it off I noticed the left wire soldered to the board was discolored and burnt looking with a few very gentle movements the contact broke off I am wondering if I can just resoder the wire back to the board thanks for all the help guys really appreciatedIf the controller lights up that means it has power.
If you have a volt meter check the output from the controller.
Also check the continuity of the heater head,as it may be the heater that is dead.
Either way you need to check these first to figure out which part is not working.
hello!i have a real disaster,+ desperately need to know the length of the heater cartridge,hanging by 2 wires from under the s/steel tube.i am un able to check mine because as we speak ,the 2 leads,covered in heat resistant insulation,are now barely hanging on to heater cartridge(thanx to being dragged back + forwards thro s/steel pipe to find out why it kept cutting out.Convinced it was the suspect joint under s/steel tube,i then realized in stoned wisdom,that indeed the wire was broken inches away!!so a perfectly good joint on the cartridge was now fuked thanx 2 being dum.any way under magnifacaton,the 2 now bare wires hanging out of cartridge(fire rod as watlow calls itmight as well be throbing peniseach consists of 9 strands.they are 1/8th inch apart,and one has only 4 strands left,with the others splayed out.oh fuk.1st fix involved insulation tape,wrapped round bare wires ,figured the plastic would blob in 1 spot.not so.room full of black toxic shit.next attempt pure stoned genius.held both wires apart+used red RTV,engine gasket goo,in between+ around whole connection assembled it back together without s/steel pipe(the tack weld had broken a long time ago.so now i have the 3 machined parts hanging on the s/steel plate handle,with 2 wires with heat insulation on them,sticking out of apollo.i think there is a chance,i could be the first sublimator fatalitycool.so needless 2 say despite holding in my hand the heating cartridge,for a long panic driven period,i did not measure it!!!!.i can hardly believe it.and there is no way i am gonna disturb the last 4 work hardened strands to break,and leave me with out a functioning sub..i have found out where to get cartridge,but need measument.its 1/4 inch diameter,but i need to know the length.it lives loosely inside the threaded insert,that holds the top + bottom together(through handle.hope some one can help??
I haven't taken mine apart but from the outside it looks like about an inch or so... Have you checked with Watlow to see what size they sell in 1/4 in heat rod... I'm pulling for you to fix your Sub.. Take some pix I want to know more about the insides on case I ever need to fix mine ( knock on wood ) .
ok i now know the secret of the sub!!! (only the construction,no ,one knows the magic! ).its a heater cartridge,1/4 x1 and half inch long...fucked up +orderd 1/4 x 1 in(2 of em .they wanted me to buy 5 !! ),too short ,but being 80w,it does heat up well enough.shall get correct length later.But be so carefull of wires coming out of cartridge.they will break.killed 1 cartridge,blown 2 philmore dimmer switches+1 step down transformer.pretty much from shorting out heater wires on side of apollo,when screwing it back together..so big modifactions,redesigned top heater handle to suit my modded btm handle + sub stand(as per u tube vid,am now awaiting another replacement dimmer,+rock + roll.!!!!video of everthing soon!.the killa watt survived everything,so that was cool.sub 4 life.holy fuk wow!!!.keep on subbinthanx to all the pioneers who figured out the mods.thumbs up!
thanks but I also removed the cartridge mine is different:
I allredy contacted the distrobutior in Israel,
they can sell me the same one that I have for 38USD
also they can provide one with the thermocouple type C or K E1J-13201 for 69USD,
I still thinking what to get....
thanks for you assist,
i received the heater with the thermocouple,
i could not get it to work with my TA4 PID,
could you share your diagram?
thanks in advance,
You guys seem to really know your circuitry. I just got my XLR 2.0 Monkey Controller working again by changing a Littlefuse 2A 125V fuse. Something had shorted it out and blown the fuse before. Now with the the new fuse the infamously annoying 1 hour timer is no longer working. The controller just stays on as along as you leave it on. Wonder what's happened there?
Not just the timer box, this is also for us OG lamp dimmer types, haha.
So an update for my OG fam - I bought the Mighty yesterday and holy fuck is it brilliant.
As much as I have sentimental value for it, I've barely touched the sub in months - mostly because I've started being plagued by weird, uncomfortable side effects when I get too high; palpitations and the like - so I'm contemplating selling the sub and my bong and just using the Mighty and disposable oil vapes from here on out.
Thoughts on how I can best go about this?