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Discontinued The Sublimator

Angryman

The Benzedrine's got my teeth wiggling.
Has anyone tried an incandescent light dimmer with their sub instead of the electronic box that comes with the unit? I only ask because Ive read alot complaints with the factory made boxes being faulty...
 
Angryman,

zippy

Well-Known Member
How do you guys clean the black carbon gunk that has stuck onto the nail after lots of dabbing? I tried soaking in iso overnight it didn't seem to work so well. Last night I just took my dab tool and scraped the hell out of it to get it all off but pretty sure that scratches it like crazy so I don't want to do that again and ruin my newer sub already. Thanks for any input, have had my titanium nail for a month now, loving the carb cap. Only problem is its very dirty now and I don't want to scratch it to shit.
Wire wool and iso works well,use a very fine wire wool to avoid big scratches.
 
zippy,
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brucee10

Well-Known Member
How do you guys clean the black carbon gunk that has stuck onto the nail after lots of dabbing? I tried soaking in iso overnight it didn't seem to work so well. Last night I just took my dab tool and scraped the hell out of it to get it all off but pretty sure that scratches it like crazy so I don't want to do that again and ruin my newer sub already. Thanks for any input, have had my titanium nail for a month now, loving the carb cap. Only problem is its very dirty now and I don't want to scratch it to shit.
I unscrew mine from the heater and then soak it in Powdered Brewers Wash.
 
brucee10,

grokit

well-worn member
Has anyone tried an incandescent light dimmer with their sub instead of the electronic box that comes with the unit? I only ask because Ive read alot complaints with the factory made boxes being faulty...
Yes it's been done, but only with the og model not the 2.0 afaik. I made a my own switch box with a standard light dimmer, box but there's a pre-made version that's available on amazon as well.

@neogitus, I used some stiff wire and threaded it through the holes in the upper part when mine was really gunked up. You can also unscrew the head but it's tricky if it's tight, and if you disturb the heater wires you can ruin it. Mine started unscrewing on its own after a while so it was easy but I was still careful.
 
grokit,
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Brayden

the dank one
Hey guys been a while since ive posted! hope everyones subbin happy :) Just had a question for the community about the kill-a-watt meter. I've been using it since the original release of the OG sub and it has started to malfunction. For whatever reason it no longer displays the proper voltage. I can be maxxed out red hot and it will say 0 volts. Thanks guys!
 
Brayden,

Resurrector

Well-Known Member
Yes it's been done, but only with the og model not the 2.0 afaik. I made a my own switch box with a standard light dimmer, box but there's a pre-made version that's available on amazon as well.

I'd like to intervene there because my timerbox just started making a very loud buzzing and/or clicking noise yesterday. I turned it off for a while and it's absolutely quiet again now, but i guess it will probably get worse.
Of course I wanted to DIY fix it and I already knew about your posts @grokit and your selfmade timerbox.
Only problem I had is that in Europe we have 230V, so my current setup looks like this:
Socket - wattage meter - cable - 230V~110V transformer - cable - timerbox - cable - Apollo

Since I don't really need a timer, i thought I just use a simple pluggable 230V dimmer switch and plug that into my wattage meter.
Description of the dimmer switch says it can dim regular lighting from 20 to 280W and halogen lamps from 20 to 100W. Setup would look like this:
Socket - wattage meter - 230V dimmer switch - cable - 230V~110V transformer - cable - Apollo.

I'm just not quite sure if it will work that way around. Can anyone tell me?

btw probably the biggest advantage of that whole thing is that the Apollo will get a much longer cable and finally the days of somehow pushing the timerbox off the desk and thereby ruining your sub setup and/or hands, legs, other body parts, keyboard, mouse, mousepad, livingroom table decoration are over. Just to name a few lol
 
Last edited:
Resurrector,
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Yes it's been done, but only with the og model not the 2.0 afaik. I made a my own switch box with a standard light dimmer, box but there's a pre-made version that's available on amazon as well.

@neogitus, I used some stiff wire and threaded it through the holes in the upper part when mine was really gunked up. You can also unscrew the head but it's tricky if it's tight, and if you disturb the heater wires you can ruin it. Mine started unscrewing on its own after a while so it was easy but I was still careful.
hello!i have a real disaster,+ desperately need to know the length of the heater cartridge,hanging by 2 wires from under the s/steel tube.i am un able to check mine because as we speak ,the 2 leads,covered in heat resistant insulation,are now barely hanging on to heater cartridge:((thanx to being dragged back + forwards thro s/steel pipe to find out why it kept cutting out.Convinced it was the suspect joint under s/steel tube,i then realized in stoned wisdom,that indeed the wire was broken inches away!!:(so a perfectly good joint on the cartridge was now fuked thanx 2 being dum.any way under magnifacaton,the 2 now bare wires hanging out of cartridge(fire rod as watlow calls it:)might as well be throbing penis:)each consists of 9 strands.they are 1/8th inch apart,and one has only 4 strands left,with the others splayed out.oh fuk.1st fix involved insulation tape,wrapped round bare wires ,figured the plastic would blob in 1 spot.not so.room full of black toxic shit:(:(.next attempt pure stoned genius.held both wires apart+used red RTV,engine gasket goo,in between+ around whole connection assembled it back together without s/steel pipe(the tack weld had broken a long time ago.so now i have the 3 machined parts hanging on the s/steel plate handle,with 2 wires with heat insulation on them,sticking out of apollo.i think there is a chance,i could be the first sublimator fatality:)cool.so needless 2 say despite holding in my hand the heating cartridge,for a long panic driven period,i did not measure it!!!!.i can hardly believe it.and there is no way i am gonna disturb the last 4 work hardened strands to break,and leave me with out a functioning sub..i have found out where to get cartridge,but need measument.its 1/4 inch diameter,but i need to know the length.it lives loosely inside the threaded insert,that holds the top + bottom together(through handle.hope some one can help??
 

cow-a-bunga

Well-Known Member
Just dropping by to give some love to the Sublimator thread.

An awesome machine!!!!!!!!

@quitestoned

Can u post a pic? I dont fully understand what u want me to measure :huh:
 
Last edited:
cow-a-bunga,
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rodders83

Well-Known Member
Anyone managed to get an update on the long overdue digital timer?! Enrico features this thing back around June? Yet nothing on the website the only option is the monkey controller, But i want to see and control the exact wattage myself with official Sublimator gear.

My Herbo is really naffing me off in the winter months i can notice the drop in temp by 10c, And after a session it needs a re-heat. I need more power tbh.
 
rodders83,

Resurrector

Well-Known Member
I'd like to intervene there because my timerbox just started making a very loud buzzing and/or clicking noise yesterday. I turned it off for a while and it's absolutely quiet again now, but i guess it will probably get worse.
Of course I wanted to DIY fix it and I already knew about your posts @grokit and your selfmade timerbox.
Only problem I had is that in Europe we have 230V, so my current setup looks like this:
Socket - wattage meter - cable - 230V~110V transformer - cable - timerbox - cable - Apollo

Since I don't really need a timer, i thought I just use a simple pluggable 230V dimmer switch and plug that into my wattage meter.
Description of the dimmer switch says it can dim regular lighting from 20 to 280W and halogen lamps from 20 to 100W. Setup would look like this:
Socket - wattage meter - 230V dimmer switch - cable - 230V~110V transformer - cable - Apollo.

I'm just not quite sure if it will work that way around. Can anyone tell me?

btw probably the biggest advantage of that whole thing is that the Apollo will get a much longer cable and finally the days of somehow pushing the timerbox off the desk and thereby ruining your sub setup and/or hands, legs, other body parts, keyboard, mouse, mousepad, livingroom table decoration are over. Just to name a few lol

Just wanted to drop in that my setup is running great so far :science:
 
Resurrector,
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Detonator

Well-Known Member
hello!i have a real disaster,+ desperately need to know the length of the heater cartridge,hanging by 2 wires from under the s/steel tube.i am un able to check mine because as we speak ,the 2 leads,covered in heat resistant insulation,are now barely hanging on to heater cartridge:((thanx to being dragged back + forwards thro s/steel pipe to find out why it kept cutting out.Convinced it was the suspect joint under s/steel tube,i then realized in stoned wisdom,that indeed the wire was broken inches away!!:(so a perfectly good joint on the cartridge was now fuked thanx 2 being dum.any way under magnifacaton,the 2 now bare wires hanging out of cartridge(fire rod as watlow calls it:)might as well be throbing penis:)each consists of 9 strands.they are 1/8th inch apart,and one has only 4 strands left,with the others splayed out.oh fuk.1st fix involved insulation tape,wrapped round bare wires ,figured the plastic would blob in 1 spot.not so.room full of black toxic shit:(:(.next attempt pure stoned genius.held both wires apart+used red RTV,engine gasket goo,in between+ around whole connection assembled it back together without s/steel pipe(the tack weld had broken a long time ago.so now i have the 3 machined parts hanging on the s/steel plate handle,with 2 wires with heat insulation on them,sticking out of apollo.i think there is a chance,i could be the first sublimator fatality:)cool.so needless 2 say despite holding in my hand the heating cartridge,for a long panic driven period,i did not measure it!!!!.i can hardly believe it.and there is no way i am gonna disturb the last 4 work hardened strands to break,and leave me with out a functioning sub..i have found out where to get cartridge,but need measument.its 1/4 inch diameter,but i need to know the length.it lives loosely inside the threaded insert,that holds the top + bottom together(through handle.hope some one can help??

I haven't taken mine apart but from the outside it looks like about an inch or so... Have you checked with Watlow to see what size they sell in 1/4 in heat rod... I'm pulling for you to fix your Sub.. Take some pix I want to know more about the insides on case I ever need to fix mine ( knock on wood ) .
 
Detonator,
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grokit

well-worn member
Just wanted to drop in that my setup is running great so far :science:
Good news! I didn't have chime in because when my box buzzed, I would just whack it with a ball-pin hammer until it stopped. I finally beat that box to its death, and had to build another one from scratch because I didn't yet know about the pre-made box (which is cheaper anyways).
 

Tanz

Well-Known Member
I really am considering this unit, but need to know effect wise what its like. Can anyone comment on the effects bodywise...?

Originally I was thinking about going with the Vrip Tech or this, but then the Evo came up and now I am not so sure...all three would be nice to add to the collection (oh man this vas thing is starting up again)
 
Tanz,
I haven't taken mine apart but from the outside it looks like about an inch or so... Have you checked with Watlow to see what size they sell in 1/4 in heat rod... I'm pulling for you to fix your Sub.. Take some pix I want to know more about the insides on case I ever need to fix mine ( knock on wood ) .
ok i now know the secret of the sub!!! (only the construction,no ,one knows the magic! ).its a heater cartridge,1/4 x1 and half inch long...fucked up +orderd 1/4 x 1 in(2 of em .they wanted me to buy 5 !! ),too short ,but being 80w,it does heat up well enough.shall get correct length later.But be so carefull of wires coming out of cartridge.they will break.killed 1 cartridge,blown 2 philmore dimmer switches+1 step down transformer:(.pretty much from shorting out heater wires on side of apollo,when screwing it back together.:(.so big modifactions,redesigned top heater handle to suit my modded btm handle + sub stand(as per u tube vid:),am now awaiting another replacement dimmer,+rock + roll.!!!!video of everthing soon!.the killa watt survived everything,so that was cool.sub 4 life.holy fuk wow!!!.keep on subbin:)thanx to all the pioneers who figured out the mods.thumbs up!
 

jambandphan03

in flavor country
Just wanted to pop in and say that my V1 (lamp cord) Sublimator is still going strong after 2 years of being on almost 24/7, kept around 35 watts. I'm still rippin it! :science:


9KPK3rW.jpg
 

Mixio

TheVaporOne
hello all, I am going to become a part of the family. I mainly use herbs, what do you recommend to buy apollo or dabmaster? I'm also undecided whether to buy the kit master, the normal or only kit XLR 2.0 (I have a bubbler). I thank those who can give me a hand in choosing and maybe If should explain me if is better to buy directly the master kit. thank you.
 
Mixio,

jambandphan03

in flavor country
:lol: yeah, I have 2x double ended males stuck into a double ended female for the main part of the neck, and a Jhook on top. I like the way it mimics the shape of the Sublimator and seems to deliver a very direct hit with such a narrow path. I've tried many configurations, like this one the most so far.
 
jambandphan03,
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creationdivine

Well-Known Member
How hard do you guys pull on your sub? I usually hit it pretty hard, extracting all the vapor in one continuous pull that delivers and thick, dense with flavor cloud that leaves you with a dab-like tingle in your throat as you exhale. Upgrade to a double decker and I involuntarily take off my glasses and rub my body all over (just me? lol).

NearLeanBlueandgoldmackaw.gif


This is how my lady uses it because she likes the extra air with her rip. I love watching the way the vapor steams. :love:

I've had mine now since September 2013 and it is still my daily go-to. Aside from some buzzing issues that were pretty bad it used to have, but went away :shrug:, and the fact it lost a lot of wattage which has forced me to just keep the dial on max, I am still in love with the performance of this vaporizer.

A few things -

I've noticed that my Sub performs differently depending on where I use it. If I am using power somewhere where a lot of other things that use electricity are running, the sub will vary in wattage. At my current apartment my Sub has had its hardest time, where if the AC or dishwasher is running I get a decent but not too noticeable drop in wattage, and it will sometimes start buzzing when my refrigerator kicks on, like a surge messes with it.

I plan to eventually cut my box and just put the the wires together with a plug in dimmer, I just cannot bring myself to do it if my unit is still working to my liking! The more than infrequent buzzing used to be almost intolerable and required turning the unit on/off until it stopped, which almost prompted me to make the mod, but that went away for whatever reason, thankfully! I think I scared it. :lol: I really look forward to getting some wattage back (fingers crossed) with a replacement dimmer mod, but for now I am content.

I'd be hard pressed not to buy a Sublimator 3.0 though if: it were comparable or more decently priced than the current units, had at least a 2 hour shutoff timer and/or remote control via the internet and/or bluetooth, exact temperature readings, and if it was made of something other than SS or Ti like ceramic, or quartz, even though I still want a Ti head on my OG sub with a Ti Atomizer. I can dream..

One last thing that I've had on my mind recently that is somewhat unrelated is I'm finally looking to buy a portable vape with substantial performance, and wanted to get a few of recommendations from fellow subbers. Currently I'm looking into the Crafty or The Grasshopper, both which I find have drawbacks that don't make me feel like making a decision quite yet. The on demand convection is what I am looking for. I feel like the Grasshopper would compliment my Sublimator so well, though I am uncertain of when I will receive my purchase, whether it will have issues that need servicing, or whether it is a lot of hype over a new product. What draws me to the Crafty is that I've never owned a Storz and Bickel vape and hear incredible things about the company and their products, but am a little torn on the non-user-servicable parts, plastic parts, and issues some users have had after only a few dozen hours of use. Just throwing this out there!

Thanks for reading/viewing all! I love this community. Get the sub and take a rip if you have one close. :)
 
creationdivine,
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JRR22611

Well-Known Member
I just bought a Sublimator and ran it for the full 60 minutes and stains showed up, is this something to be concerned about?
The stains are just on the lower part of the dab master.
Could you hazard to guess if this is safe for use or if I should contact Sublimator for an exchange?
I appreciate any input.
 
JRR22611,
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