Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

[HerbieVonVapster]

I suppose it's inevitable, but it's also sad to see, the Splinter forums devolve into mod hacking.

Considering the splinters only half what’s needed to make this vaporizer work. Plus with no support from manufacture on what mods or settings is needed to run it in TC mode kinda would expect a lot these type questions.
Other than my woods pretty than yours what else is there new about the splinter that hasn’t already been discussed?

When folks come looking for advice there not looking in diy area and the firmware threads. They ask in device thread there using it with. Sometimes easier to just answer the questions than say go read firmware thread.

Almost every question I see been answered there already it just takes more time searching reading to find the answer. Just feels like a dick move to make someone go search when you already know the answer to there question.

 

[wilky]

i prefer my splinter to my z

 

[Megaton]

That's interesting @wilky why's that?

 

[wilky]

its smaller plus i get a better consistant vapor and roasting,cloud wise both are equal,taste not much differance in it.and i cough less on the splinter

 

[Megaton]

That makes sense, i've not tried a Z yet myself though.

 

[christohari]

how long does it usually take you guys for a reply for a warranty request? I know it's the holidays but I've been waiting more than a week now. Is that normal or should I try another email?

 

[analytika]

how long does it usually take you guys for a reply for a warranty request? I know it's the holidays but I've been waiting more than a week now. Is that normal or should I try another email?

@RastaBuddhaTao is live streaming, literally right now, on Instagram.

 

[Mr. Gweilo 420]

how long does it usually take you guys for a reply for a warranty request? I know it's the holidays but I've been waiting more than a week now. Is that normal or should I try another email?

Possibly forever.

 

[buddingglasshead]

Possibly forever.

Do you have anything helpful to add or just passive aggressiveness?

how long does it usually take you guys for a reply for a warranty request? I know it's the holidays but I've been waiting more than a week now. Is that normal or should I try another email?

My repair took over a month for my Zion. Sometimes patience is key. Still though, I'd reach out on Instagram. That's usually the fastest way to communicate with Ryan directly.

 

[Mr. Gweilo 420]

Do you have anything helpful to add or just passive aggressiveness?



My repair took over a month for my Zion. Sometimes patience is key. Still though, I'd reach out on Instagram. That's usually the fastest way to communicate with Ryan directly.

Well I am merely stating a fact. He is not likely to reply.

 

[superdang9000]

Well I am merely stating a fact. He is not likely to reply.

This has unfortunately been my experience. It's been over 2 months since I emailed them without so much as a peep.

On a related note, I don't understand how someone who promotes "social media atheism" can seemingly only be contacted via... social media. Rather than the advertised and more commonly used methods.

 

[christohari]

Thanks for all the info guys, it was helpful. Especially, in regards to finding new ways to contacting him.

Do you have anything helpful to add or just passive aggressiveness?



My repair took over a month for my Zion. Sometimes patience is key. Still though, I'd reach out on Instagram. That's usually the fastest way to communicate with Ryan directly.

I don't mind the service wait itself so much but I don't like the idle time which could be already ticking off while it is in manufacturer hands. The repair is actually in regards to my Zion(#158) as well, not my splinter. Thanks again though, now I have an idea of the actual wait time too.

 

[Summer]

@christohari, try sending the same email to all of these contacts:

instagram, info@rastabuddha.com & through the support option on the contact page of his website.

On that IG feed I watched a couple days ago, Ryan says he is going to change the way he does warranties in the future. Something along the lines of having the retailer exchange the unit (in the case of recently purchased units) for which he will give the retailer credit, & if it's an older unit, the unit will only be replaced with the latest version for a reduced price.

He said warranty work centers on the following repairs:

• heater failure - predominantly on initial units which has since been corrected
• 510 bottom connection separating from wood shell - also predominantly on initial units (*If I recall correctly, someone, somewhere, mentioned that if you are gonna remove the Splinter from the mod, only do it when the unit has completely cooled down after use. And of course, there's always the use of a heat sink for which, unfortunately, there can be coil resistance value issues.)
  
• unbroken glass that loses its adhesion due to heat. (Make sure unit doesn't get too hot when running.) With locitite(sp.) you can do this repair yourself.
• broken glass bowls

*Broken glass bowls are labor intensive to repair as you have to grind out the broken glass without damaging the wood. So he figures that instead of charging for this repair, he'll charge the same repair price for a new unit. His reasoning is also that, with all the incremental upgrades made, the customer will always have the latest version.

 

[softkore]

Hey all, I received my 2-hole Splinter yesterday and have been playing around with it on my Paranormal 250c. I'm really new to box mods in general, and am having a hard time getting clouds out of the Splinter. I can only assume I'm doing something wrong, but the process seems straightforward.

I've tried Wattage mode and Wattage Boost. I've tried preheating at different wattage from 3 - 5 seconds. I've varied my wattage while drawing from 25 - 40. I have the resistance set at 0.23. I've tried covering both holes and drawing for a long time, and have also tried unrestricted airflow. While I can taste some vapor, I don't really get any cloud at all, and the mouth piece often gets too hot if I try firing for too long while the plant matter is still coming out really green. Other times it's slightly darker, but nowhere close to my vapcap, and I'm still not getting much vapor at all. I've seen that people use theirs in TC but I don't feel great about doing that since it's not officially supported.

 

[analytika]

Hey all, I received my 2-hole Splinter yesterday and have been playing around with it on my Paranormal 250c. I'm really new to box mods in general, and am having a hard time getting clouds out of the Splinter. I can only assume I'm doing something wrong, but the process seems straightforward.

I've tried Wattage mode and Wattage Boost. I've tried preheating at different wattage from 3 - 5 seconds. I've varied my wattage while drawing from 25 - 40. I have the resistance set at 0.23. I've tried covering both holes and drawing for a long time, and have also tried unrestricted airflow. While I can taste some vapor, I don't really get any cloud at all, and the mouth piece often gets too hot if I try firing for too long while the plant matter is still coming out really green. Other times it's slightly darker, but nowhere close to my vapcap, and I'm still not getting much vapor at all. I've seen that people use theirs in TC but I don't feel great about doing that since it's not officially supported.

If you have a DNA "c" class, you should try Replay Mode.

Replay is a mode distinct from Wattage and TC.

You still pick a wattage under Replay. There are a few more settings, more than I at first realized.

Under Replay->Settings->Atomizer:

27.5W
Replay 10
Boost On
Punch 10.

That's what I have right now for a standard Splinter 2 hole used mostly for microdosing.

Additionally, you lock in the "perfect puff". That's up to you.

Last I looked these Settings->Atomizer settings (Replay, Boost and Punch) are largely undocumented. I believe 10 maxes out the effect of the algorithm, giving you less leeway to increase temperature simply by holder the button longer.

Set thus, Replay Mode is really fast on the subsequent pulls, without waiting at all for heat-up. It renders a graph under the Replay->Settings menu, IIRC boosting to somewhere in the wattage 40s to get you faster to the heat you want.

It's hyper-efficient extraction. And pretty good at preventing combustion. You can still get there if you chain puff. I'd give it a good 5 seconds between puffs.

You need to recalibrate the "perfect puff" for different load sizes.

Not for turp chasers, who want to ride slowly up a temperature curve. For that you want wattage without boost, and either dialing it up wattage or fingering it like a Milaana.

(Yep, I'm feeding the Mod Hacking beast, who demanded a sacrifice.)

 

[softkore]

Thanks very much for the recommendations, I've set up the profile in Escribe exactly as you've described and it does seem to help, I'm definitely getting a bit more vapor now - but still nowhere near the clouds I see in all the Splinter reviews, and the mouthpiece still gets really hot while the avb is not nearly as brown as I'd expect. I also tried the DNA 250c profiles on FCSHARE with the Splinter material settings and having similar results, I guess I'll just have to keep playing with it but so far I'm really not getting the results I expect from what I've seen with other Splinter users. Meanwhile my vapcap gives me quite nice clouds with only a Bic lighter so far, and doesn't get hot at all near the mouthpiece. I know I can try a cooling mouth piece or water piece with the Splinter but I'm also worried about overheating the unit if the mouth piece is getting so warm.

 

[sickmanfraud]

Last I looked these Settings->Atomizer settings (Replay, Boost and Punch) are largely undocumented. I believe 10 maxes out the effect of the algorithm, giving you less leeway to increase temperature simply by holder the button longer.

From Escribe manual: (there may be a newer version, This is from the evolv website.:

Preheat Power: For temperature-controlled coils, the amount of power applied to preheat the atomizer coil. Preheat Punch: Adjusts how aggressively the DNA 200 will preheat the coil. Preheat Time Limit: The maximum amount of time to apply preheat power if set temperature is not reached.

@softkore do you have any other stems? Maybe there is an air leak?

 

[softkore]

@softkore do you have any other stems? Maybe there is an air leak?

I don't have any other stems, but I don't think there's a leak because when I cover both holes the airflow is basically nonexistant.

And regarding my comment about the vapcap mouthpiece not getting hot, obviously I realize it's significantly longer and different material / heating process than the Splinter. I'm just surprised how I can make clouds with the vapcap with just a Bic lighter where it doesn't really seem to be getting that hot, whereas I'm getting barely any vapor with the Splinter when it seems to be getting much hotter near the heating element.

 

[Grifo]

Damn it! It arrived and i dont have a mod. Well i have one in the garage that might work but damn! LOL Its so much smaller than i thought that i might also get the Z. But im gonna play with this one first.

Edit: is rbt the only place to get the bowl adapter?

 

[Summer]

Edit: is rbt the only place to get the bowl adapter?

If you mean a wpa, then yes, or you can have a custom 19/19mm gong (or mp) made for you by Oregon Glass Blowers.

 

[KeroZen]

it seems to be getting much hotter near the heating element.

Try putting your finger on your vapcap tip just after it clicked and say that again heh!

 

[NiceInvasion]

Is there any kind of consensus on the best mods to use with the Splinter? I know it must come up a lot in the thread but I'm having trouble searching because the forum says the terms are too generic. I'm looking for something reasonably compact that will let me use whatever firmware and features are preferred. I was recommended the eVic Dual but it's rather hard to find in Canada. I did locate one vendor but I'd appreciate any advice about alternatives before purchasing.

 

[analytika]

Thanks very much for the recommendations, I've set up the profile in Escribe exactly as you've described and it does seem to help, I'm definitely getting a bit more vapor now - but still nowhere near the clouds I see in all the Splinter reviews, and the mouthpiece still gets really hot while the avb is not nearly as brown as I'd expect. I also tried the DNA 250c profiles on FCSHARE with the Splinter material settings and having similar results, I guess I'll just have to keep playing with it but so far I'm really not getting the results I expect from what I've seen with other Splinter users. Meanwhile my vapcap gives me quite nice clouds with only a Bic lighter so far, and doesn't get hot at all near the mouthpiece. I know I can try a cooling mouth piece or water piece with the Splinter but I'm also worried about overheating the unit if the mouth piece is getting so warm.

With replay, I forswear external software like escribe. There's no need for it.

I don't know what you're recording as "the perfect puff", or your wattage.

Higher wattage if you're not microdosing. Hold down longer in search of the "perfect puff" before you lock in your replay reference.

Experiment.

Keep raising wattage or hold down longer. You'll pass from simple terps, to generous clouds and full extraction, to combustion.

The splinter is more than capable of that sweet spot. Replay mode doesn't find it for you, but once you do, and lock it in, a DNA "c" will take you back there, easily, repeatably.

In fact, it's the most advanced algorithm on mods today, and it's the only one that doesn't require knowledge of the stainless steel grade used by @RastaBuddhaTao for repeatable results!

 

[Summer]

I know this must be posted somewhere in the thread, but to reiterate. Ryan does a burnoff prior to sending out units, but if you feel more secure doing one, here's how:

"Instructions on how to burn-in your Splinter
Place the unit on a mod box capable of producing 70 watts
Place a clean mouthpiece with no screen or product in the splinter
gently blow into the mouthpiece as your fire the mod at 70 watts for 10 - 15 seconds
Continue to blow into the unit for another 10-15 seconds to cool the heater and clear any volatilizes from the heater chamber
You will detect some odor and/or see some smoke / vapor as any contaminants burn off
Repeat the process 2-3 times with one at least 3 minutes between successive firings
Allow the unit to cool and resume use - Please allow 4 - 5 sessions for any odor or taste to mitigate"
-RastaBuddhaTao"

 

[Summer]

Is there any kind of consensus on the best mods to use with the Splinter? I know it must come up a lot in the thread but I'm having trouble searching because the forum says the terms are too generic. I'm looking for something reasonably compact that will let me use whatever firmware and features are preferred. I was recommended the eVic Dual but it's rather hard to find in Canada. I did locate one vendor but I'd appreciate any advice about alternatives before purchasing.

Here are the links for which mods are compatible with which software in descending order of popularity. Funky junk is probably the most popular firmware to use as one of the nicest features about @funkyjunky firmware is the user changeable cruise control lasting up to 15 minutes! Cruise control also allows for increasing or decreasing temperatures during the "cruise".

funky junk: https://github.com/pharmaka/tubomyevic/blob/master/README.md

sur_my evic: https://github.com/MicroSur/sur_myevic

arctic fox: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1uF5xCzg-8LqbiCwom5oKJWhIBnt7COsrCWytwYN5Yfk/mobilebasic

You'll have to go through this thread & the Splinter thread to see pics of the different mods members are using. Wismec & Evic are the most popular, unless you want to go with a more expensive dna mod & use escribe software.

There's also this small thread that you may not know about that may be of interest:

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/tc-box-mods-firmware-discussions-and-customizing.23742/