Nube Scrutator
Cloud Searcher...
i've been having horrible luck with my okeanos latelypretty much given up on it til the triton comes out or something
I've had no problems whatsoever since I modified my Okeanos with a Kiss Mini.
Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.
- Thread starter THC SCIENTIFIC
- Start date
I've had no problems whatsoever since I modified my Okeanos with a Kiss Mini.
as a gearhead I'm realy into w9's stuff,but here's the surprising thing to me,I think I might be the only one on forum that hates the replacement of the v3 with the v4. The v4 works all the time, but the button is so easy to activate unknowingly . There was nothing wrong with the v3 just beef up the center pin. Having said all this crap, it just makes me love my 8 even more. An analog guy
dilvish
in hypno-vision
when you all iso soak your herc ti coils, what does the coil look like after? mine still had some light brownish leftovers in it after about 48 hours of soaking in 99.9. using it, it tasted fine but didn't take nearly as much buffer as the first time. now i'm soaking my other one, and even now (36 hours), it still looks pretty seriously gunked up. is that normal? how do you guys do it, and what are your results?
if isoing it isnt clean enough why not just boil it clean?
eckstrakt
Member
do not hesitate any longer.
i was in your spot about a month ago. I decided to go all in and order. after a bit of experimenting and asking a few questions here and to the guys at w9, i could not be happier and would promote the persei and herc to anyone who is undecided.
that said, i am ordering another persei, herc and alpha c
dilvish
in hypno-vision
i forgot all about boiling it. i'll have to try that.guess your at one of those moments when your so dazed and confused, not thinking with common sense lol. happens when you keep hitting your sr74x too often.
spoutti
Well-Known Member
You can torch it clean too, but I never tried. I read you have to do small burts, or you can melt the entire ti coil.
slvelocity
Well-Known Member
Is the coil that comes with the sr71 a Ti coil?
It is the upcoming latest and greatest. I think a dual voltage, LAYG++.
Not many more details yet.
Pre-orders soon
StickyShisha2
Well-Known Member
the original packages had (2) SS coils that needed to be cut down to half their size to work.
i don't think they switched to the Ti coils until the sr74
c76man
In search of the best terps and smoothest vapor
My 71 that I picked up a few months back came with Ti coils.
hi, i bought the rebuild kit for kiss cart. I tried to connect the non resistance wire to ti wire but messed up 4 connector trying to connect them and I need to buy more connectors. can somebody tell me where i can buy connectors? also, I need instructions how to rebuild my kiss????
ED421
Well-Known Member
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000TRGMUG?psc=1&smid=A2E3YJSBLCCQV0
These work for the little connectors.
SamuraiSam
Extraction Technician
Adding more coil increases the amount of wicking surface area so that more oil can be held. It does not increase vapor production, actually it reduces vapor production. The SR74x with one coil generates great vapor production, its as enjoyable for me as the SR-71 with two coils, but easier to use, easier to manage the buffer on.
Adding more coil will actually move the pooled oil closer to the mouthpiece resulting in more likelihood to inhale oil. Some coating on the upper screen is unavoidable if you choose to use it; you are drawing vapor through that screen and some will condense on it.
If you are getting a lot, to minimize splatter first try ensuring your load is well melted in before giving it a full 'pull'. Second, reduce the strength of your draw. Third try loading a little bit less.
Another thing to consider is the power that you are applying to the Hercules. If you are getting a lot of reclaim it's probable that you are not supplying enough power to the Herc and the rod is not getting as hot as it should; so you are not getting a full vaporization. This can be a consequence of not using the correct power supply for the Hercules; it sounds similar to what some people can experience trying to use the Hercules with generic IMR cells that don't have the gusto to make the ceramic rod really happy
The rod is doing the best it can with what you're feeding it but it might want more electrons to shift into top gear and actually deliver the Herculean clouds that it wants to put in your lungs 
I only bother iso soaking my Herc ti coil for an hour with my initial soak then I pull them out and hang them off the end of my Ti dabber. I turn down my butane torch nearly as low as it goes and I torch the coil until all residue is gone. I don't do this particularly delicately, but I'm working with <1" flame and once its glowing orange I move to another part of the coil. Make sure to hit the "front" and "back" of the coil to get everything out! After your done torching let it cool. You don't need to boil it in water... I've never melted a coil and I still have one of the original coils that came with my SR-74 that I bought over a year ago. It's smooshed to shit and has been torched at least five times, it's had a really large amount of oil run through it... Still works great!
DieHard's KISS Cart Rebuild Photo Tutorial
Make sure you properly squish the crap out out of the top portion of the crimp not just the center. If you just pinch the center, the wires are going to pull right out. The top part of the crimp is thick, and if you pinch that with your crimper, it will deform and hold the Ti wire to the non-resistance wire properly.
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i got it working correctly now, before i was running it around 6.8v so i guess thats how i got reclaim already. at 7.2-7.4 works great, at higher voltage it is unbearable. 7.5v+ is only good when the vapor production is low, instead of loading more just turn it up a bit. also what is the normal amount of time you guys hold the button down before you take a puff.
ragnorokk
DERP
The suggested hit time for a sr-71 that I found archived in the earlier part of this thread is 15sec; 8-12sec for heating, and about 5sec cool down. The proper method for sr-74 seems to elude me, as the heating time is closer to 20sec, but seems to need some feathering beyond the time it achieves vapor production. If I let off the button once it's hot enough, like I would for the SR-71, I end up with wispy hits. Hopefully someone has a more thorough process for hitting a 74, and will help us both out on that end
Thanks, I was wondering how to do those non resistance wires w/o screwing it all up. Do I need a crimper, or can I just flatten/crush the whole thing on there w/ pliers and get ok results? I find my crimper likes to eat the delicate things that it was supposedly designed for.Adding more coil increases the amount of wicking surface area so that more oil can be held. It does not increase vapor production, actually it reduces vapor production. The SR74x with one coil generates great vapor production, its as enjoyable for me as the SR-71 with two coils, but easier to use, easier to manage the buffer on.
Adding more coil will actually move the pooled oil closer to the mouthpiece resulting in more likelihood to inhale oil. Some coating on the upper screen is unavoidable if you choose to use it; you are drawing vapor through that screen and some will condense on it.
If you are getting a lot, to minimize splatter first try ensuring your load is well melted in before giving it a full 'pull'. Second, reduce the strength of your draw. Third try loading a little bit less.
Another thing to consider is the power that you are applying to the Hercules. If you are getting a lot of reclaim it's probable that you are not supplying enough power to the Herc and the rod is not getting as hot as it should; so you are not getting a full vaporization. This can be a consequence of not using the correct power supply for the Hercules; it sounds similar to what some people can experience trying to use the Hercules with generic IMR cells that don't have the gusto to make the ceramic rod really happy
I only bother iso soaking my Herc ti coil for an hour with my initial soak then I pull them out and hang them off the end of my Ti dabber. I turn down my butane torch nearly as low as it goes and I torch the coil until all residue is gone. I don't do this particularly delicately, but I'm working with <1" flame and once its glowing orange I move to another part of the coil. Make sure to hit the "front" and "back" of the coil to get everything out! After your done torching let it cool. You don't need to boil it in water... I've never melted a coil and I still have one of the original coils that came with my SR-74 that I bought over a year ago. It's smooshed to shit and has been torched at least five times, it's had a really large amount of oil run through it... Still works great!
DieHard's KISS Cart Rebuild Photo Tutorial
Make sure you properly squish the crap out out of the top portion of the crimp not just the center. If you just pinch the center, the wires are going to pull right out. The top part of the crimp is thick, and if you pinch that with your crimper, it will deform and hold the Ti wire to the non-resistance wire properly.
elmoe420
Well-Known Member
I just flattened the whole thing with a pair of needle nose pliers and it seemed to work just fine.
ragnorokk
DERP
Dope. Hate buying new pliers, since I inevitably destroy them first use. These old bike mechanic pliers, however, are bomb-proof... they just aren't designed for artisan crafting, they're designed to crushinate.
SamuraiSam
Extraction Technician
Have you ever taken a dab of oil off a nail with a carb cap? When done properly, you apply oil just below the vaporization point of the nail and it won't quite vaporize. Then you apply the cap and all of a sudden it works. Some thoughts from taskrok on what carb capping accomplishes.
http://www.highlyeducatedti.com/blog/?p=364
The carb cap creates a chamber with only a small hole for a restricted air inlet. This restriction creates a low pressure environment inside the upper chamber. The low pressure area lowers the vaporization point of the oil leading to increased vapor production.
The adjustable airflow washer lets you restrict airflow through the inlet holes into the vaporization chamber of the Hercules in the same way that a carb cap creates restriction on the oil sitting on a hot nail. Restricting the airflow into the Hercules' vaporization chamber also lowers the pressure inside and increases vapor output.
You shoudn't need to apply much force at all. The crimps included with our rebuild kits are made of soft metal and should deform to pinch the wire pretty easily. By over crimping you will flatten that soft metal like a pancake!
The right tools for the job always make a difference. Flush cut cutters instead of generic angle cutters/dikes to trim the wires, and nice crimpers would be sweet. My best generic crimpers are Klein rated up to 4ga wire and are no good for tiny crimps either. These are a little better but are intended for terminal connectors & are pretty expensive. http://www.adafruit.com/products/35...4ijJn1CjfaFIcIPHxoMOpnvljem4ToU7x1hoCXbDw_wcB
Jewelry/bead crimpers may be worth trying: http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Crimpin...&qid=1429306499&sr=1-4&keywords=micro+crimper
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DaNi_DuB
Vapor Enthusiast
The problem here is you've posted in the wrong thread. You can fix it by posting this question in the omicron thread & waiting for an answer.