Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.
- Thread starter THC SCIENTIFIC
- Start date
coffinoff
Well-Known Member
Confirmed. Works great for me.
SkrACHIN
Well-Known Member
I hear ya. I have the entire line of Persei attachments, accessories, glass and power. Luckily I've never had to use the customer service. Everything has been so solid. Didn't know they were moving. Explains the no answer. I've been trying to get this 8 to fire for a month. This thing is driving me crazy. Can't understand how the kanger tank goes but the herc won't. I'm glad to hear some people are getting results from a new button assembly. i want my 8 to work. looks and feels so damn good. had a lot of people ask me about it. luckily i can always get the eliquid to vape so they can see it in action. i guess i will continue to wait...
We are almost done guys sorry but we are re prioritizing everything to move forward with bigger and better (for you guys) dream. For now please stand by and I'll get to everyone's questions and answers next few days.
Button assemblies should be done this monday and shipped to us, once done we will start shipping them out to people who need them and converting existing 8's to the new button assemblies.
Although there is a few hundred 8's out there we will get them all resolved.
Button assemblies should be done this monday and shipped to us, once done we will start shipping them out to people who need them and converting existing 8's to the new button assemblies.
Although there is a few hundred 8's out there we will get them all resolved.
masaki
Well-Known Member
Yes
Fredster951
Well-Known Member
Hey @masaki, how is the new button assembly treating you?
masaki
Well-Known Member
So far so good. Still needing to rebuild my top a lot. But I'm having solid sessions.
Why are you rebuilding the top alot?
masaki
Well-Known Member
It seems like the contact pins on my 8 get disconnected. I can't get it to fire with out rebuilding it first.
Vapoholic420
-Loyal To The Oil-
@masaki, aren't u still using the old button housing just with the new pins? Bcuz I tried that last night, and it didn't work as good as the new one, even with the new pins! And then, when I put the new longer housing back on, it wasn't working as good now either!! So I took the housing back out and I noticed that for some reason, if u look at the size of the gap between the button screw and the back of the housing where u screw it in, on mine, one side the screw is a little tiny bit tighter than the other, probably bcuz of the threading. Only a little tiny tiny bit but it must be enough to make a difference bcuz I took my button assembly out and spun it around so that the tighter gap was on top and the other side on the bottom, and now I'm back to barely having to press the button hard and perfect draws and bellows of vapor!! So I'm pretty sure it's got alot to do with that button screw. I hope this made sense.
@Vapoholic420
@lonelyhero
@k3nd4l
MY NYC PEEPZ -- other NY and tri - state peeps
sweeeet --
I'm on LI -- right outside the city -- NYC -- we gotta all chill
I run a studio --- we should do a session !
@k3nd4l
re -- sr74 3.7v and other heat up time
I'm still mastering the 7.4v with batteries ( i never have luck even with aw even
-- just me though i guess -- but I'm ok with since - the core is just fine - since as mentioned NY isn't easy on the run YET ......hopefully soon --
but 7.4v on the core has a fairly quick heat up time
as far as time ? -- i use the hammer of course ( wish it was silver like my other :"tools" )
but I keep button pressed 15-20 seconds b4 the clouds r ready to flow ! with the core @ 7.4v...
sometimes need 30 seconds when cold and of course all depends on type of product ..
now that I have the 3.7 rod working -- if it is COLD I feel it needs about A FULL MINUTE TO HEAT UP N START WITH SERIOUS CLOUDS ---
THEN AFTER heated up -- only need to re apply the button for 15 - 20 seconds for each session --
it degrades quickly on batteries --
with the core its standard and stays the same amount of time --
I actually feel the 3.7 needs less than 60 second heat up time when on the core --
again once heated up --- on the core it only needs 10 seconds to jump off again after light cool down ..
im gunna do actual stop watch test when I'm in studio later n ill post -- with core and full charged batts
It is sweet with the 3.7v --- now together with the small stack battery setup its just a drop larger than a bic pen -- perfect for nyc -- just with it matched better -- :_) so vain .. lol
(reclaim always gr8 4 edibles my friends )
@lonelyhero
@k3nd4l
MY NYC PEEPZ -- other NY and tri - state peeps
sweeeet --
I'm on LI -- right outside the city -- NYC -- we gotta all chill
I run a studio --- we should do a session !
@k3nd4l
re -- sr74 3.7v and other heat up time
I'm still mastering the 7.4v with batteries ( i never have luck even with aw even
-- just me though i guess -- but I'm ok with since - the core is just fine - since as mentioned NY isn't easy on the run YET ......hopefully soon --but 7.4v on the core has a fairly quick heat up time
as far as time ? -- i use the hammer of course ( wish it was silver like my other :"tools"
)but I keep button pressed 15-20 seconds b4 the clouds r ready to flow ! with the core @ 7.4v...
sometimes need 30 seconds when cold and of course all depends on type of product ..
now that I have the 3.7 rod working -- if it is COLD I feel it needs about A FULL MINUTE TO HEAT UP N START WITH SERIOUS CLOUDS ---
THEN AFTER heated up -- only need to re apply the button for 15 - 20 seconds for each session --
it degrades quickly on batteries --
with the core its standard and stays the same amount of time --
I actually feel the 3.7 needs less than 60 second heat up time when on the core --
again once heated up --- on the core it only needs 10 seconds to jump off again after light cool down ..
im gunna do actual stop watch test when I'm in studio later n ill post -- with core and full charged batts
It is sweet with the 3.7v --- now together with the small stack battery setup its just a drop larger than a bic pen
-- perfect for nyc -- just with it matched better -- :_) so vain .. lol(reclaim always gr8 4 edibles my friends
)
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Fredster951
Well-Known Member
I use the black rod often on the original SR74 barrels. One ti coil. I use a Sony VTC5 and AW18650 battery. Battery must be near fully charged for best results. With battery power around the 12-15 second mark I start getting good vapor production. I puff on it very very lightly to get clouds. I usually keep the hammer top on and turn it off when i feel the oil vapor getting too hot and repeat until session is over. When I switch off the button i do light cooldown hits. Also overloading in the black rod is not recommended. It will cause delay in heat up time and weaker vapor production.@Vapoholic420
@lonelyhero
@k3nd4l
MY NYC PEEPZ -- other NY and tri - state peeps
sweeeet --
I'm on LI -- right outside the city -- NYC -- we gotta all chill
I run a studio --- we should do a session !
@k3nd4l
re -- sr74 3.7v and other heat up time
I'm still mastering the 7.4v with batteries ( i never have luck even with aw even
but 7.4v on the core has a fairly quick heat up time
as far as time ? -- i use the hammer of course ( wish it was silver like my other :"tools"
but I keep button pressed 15-20 seconds b4 the clouds r ready to flow ! with the core @ 7.4v...
sometimes need 30 seconds when cold and of course all depends on type of product ..
now that I have the 3.7 rod working -- if it is COLD I feel it needs about A FULL MINUTE TO HEAT UP N START WITH SERIOUS CLOUDS ---
THEN AFTER heated up -- only need to re apply the button for 15 - 20 seconds for each session --
it degrades quickly on batteries --
with the core its standard and stays the same amount of time --
I actually feel the 3.7 needs less than 60 second heat up time when on the core --
again once heated up --- on the core it only needs 10 seconds to jump off again after light cool down ..
im gunna do actual stop watch test when I'm in studio later n ill post -- with core and full charged batts
It is sweet with the 3.7v --- now together with the small stack battery setup its just a drop larger than a bic pen
(reclaim always gr8 4 edibles my friends
Vapoholic420
-Loyal To The Oil-
@invisiblefriend, that's cool your in NY too. What kind of studio do u run? I would definitely get together for a session with u, but I'm up in Syracuse, NY. It would be a little bit of a trip just for a session. Haha. But I have been to NYC a few times and actually plan on coming down that way again in a couple months. Maybe I'll stop into your studio if you're still interested. It would be cool to meet up with a fellow FC'er and have a session with ya and check out the quality of the oil down in NYC. I'll be sure to bring some from here to let u try out too. ;-) Lmk. And I'll pm ya when I'm coming that way again. I'm pretty sure ur not a cop or anything. Haha. I've seen ya on here posting for a while now.@Vapoholic420
@lonelyhero
@k3nd4l
MY NYC PEEPZ -- other NY and tri - state peeps
sweeeet --
I'm on LI -- right outside the city -- NYC -- we gotta all chill
I run a studio --- we should do a session !
@k3nd4l
re -- sr74 3.7v and other heat up time
I'm still mastering the 7.4v with batteries ( i never have luck even with aw even
but 7.4v on the core has a fairly quick heat up time
as far as time ? -- i use the hammer of course ( wish it was silver like my other :"tools"
but I keep button pressed 15-20 seconds b4 the clouds r ready to flow ! with the core @ 7.4v...
sometimes need 30 seconds when cold and of course all depends on type of product ..
now that I have the 3.7 rod working -- if it is COLD I feel it needs about A FULL MINUTE TO HEAT UP N START WITH SERIOUS CLOUDS ---
THEN AFTER heated up -- only need to re apply the button for 15 - 20 seconds for each session --
it degrades quickly on batteries --
with the core its standard and stays the same amount of time --
I actually feel the 3.7 needs less than 60 second heat up time when on the core --
again once heated up --- on the core it only needs 10 seconds to jump off again after light cool down ..
im gunna do actual stop watch test when I'm in studio later n ill post -- with core and full charged batts
It is sweet with the 3.7v --- now together with the small stack battery setup its just a drop larger than a bic pen
(reclaim always gr8 4 edibles my friends
Edit: By the way, if ur running a core with the 3.7 volt rod, just bump it up to about 4 volts and it'll cut down the heat up time and still not burn ur oil up. But if ur using batteries ur stuck with the 3.7 volts. At least until they come out with the Iris V2! I can't wait for that to come out!! Hopefully soon!
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Pop the PTFE caps out and insert the pins into them, make sure they're tight and flush and as far in as they can go
put the button (new assembly) in the 8
put the bottom PTFE cap/gold pin in
**usually at this point i notice that inserting it has slightly knocked my button assembly off level or slightly kinked my spring. straighten it out with your finger*
hold the button in ever so slightly and drop the top cap/pin in
significant improvement when doing this
Vapoholic420
-Loyal To The Oil-
That's exactly how I assemble it too. The button assembly always moves a little on mine too and it's easier to fix and make sure u get it right if u do the bottom first.
vjt324
Well-Known Member
Guys have any of u had problems with a v3 persei top firing the globe?
I just got a replacement top for my v2 and it fires everything but the globe
When i put the globe and press the button it blinks three times. I take the same globe and put it on a minicron and it fired right up. Also, i made a mistake and slapped the globe on when i had the 7.4 tube for the herc and Boom! Globe fired up for a split second, no blinking. Tried again on the 3.7 ss, no luck.
Also, is it me or is this top slimmer. Dont remember being able to feel the ridges between the top and the top.
Btw @invisiblefriend im in Jersey!
Its like nobody dabs in jersey city yet. Im down for a sesh! Lol
I just got a replacement top for my v2 and it fires everything but the globe
When i put the globe and press the button it blinks three times. I take the same globe and put it on a minicron and it fired right up. Also, i made a mistake and slapped the globe on when i had the 7.4 tube for the herc and Boom! Globe fired up for a split second, no blinking. Tried again on the 3.7 ss, no luck.
Also, is it me or is this top slimmer. Dont remember being able to feel the ridges between the top and the top.
Btw @invisiblefriend im in Jersey!
Its like nobody dabs in jersey city yet. Im down for a sesh! Lol
With my new button assembly at first I had to put a bit of pressure not as much as the old button but still needed some additional pressure regardless. I back out the button screw just a little bit so the button would travel deeper in. Now I don't have to apply much pressure at all and also since it travels more into the housing, I don't have to worry about it firing in my pocket.
Edit: Also I always put the top and bottom pin last when assembling the button
Edit: Also I always put the top and bottom pin last when assembling the button
Is there a video anywhere of how to torch the herc titanium coils clean?
I'm cleaning my herc for the first time and the only thing i'm not sure of is how to torch the coil clean, i've heard of them crumbling if done wrong.
I searched for about an hour or so with no results i don't want to ruin my first coil even tho i do have the backup that came with the herc.
EDIT: also is there any harm in completely removing the AAF i'm not very fond of having the draw restricted
I'm cleaning my herc for the first time and the only thing i'm not sure of is how to torch the coil clean, i've heard of them crumbling if done wrong.
I searched for about an hour or so with no results i don't want to ruin my first coil even tho i do have the backup that came with the herc.
EDIT: also is there any harm in completely removing the AAF i'm not very fond of having the draw restricted
TommydCat
Well-Known Member
The AAF doesn't seem to really fit in the SR-74x all that well - there's an appreciable gap between the nut and AAF (I realize this isn't uncommon, but seems really far - enough that after the chamber heats up, that AAF is going to fall down the shaft away from the holes), whereas it fits nicely into the SR-74 before the X parts were added.
I haven't actually liked the AAF in any position but fully open (no Nibbler XL, yet) so it doesn't affect me in any way - just curious if others seen it
I haven't actually liked the AAF in any position but fully open (no Nibbler XL, yet) so it doesn't affect me in any way - just curious if others seen it
yup same reason I dont use the sr74x parts, the AAF has to much space to move around. Don't know if that is normal but I've been using the regular sr74 parts with the sr74x threadless top cap.The AAF doesn't seem to really fit in the SR-74x all that well - there's an appreciable gap between the nut and AAF (I realize this isn't uncommon, but seems really far - enough that after the chamber heats up, that AAF is going to fall down the shaft away from the holes), whereas it fits nicely into the SR-74 before the X parts were added.
I haven't actually liked the AAF in any position but fully open (no Nibbler XL, yet) so it doesn't affect me in any way - just curious if others seen it
the AAF for me i try to set full open but after a while i notice draw being restricted open it up and its moved to restrict it again i'm thinking of removing it entirely
i already have 2 AW iMR 18350 batteries. I plan on running the herc at 3.7 w. ss tube eventually so i want to get 1 more battery so i have 3 to cycle while im out..
Ive seen the efest 18650 advertised as a better battery than the aw im 18650 but how is the efest 18350 in comparison to othe aw imr 18350 ? or if anyone knows the best 18350 battery to use please let me know
Ive seen the efest 18650 advertised as a better battery than the aw im 18650 but how is the efest 18350 in comparison to othe aw imr 18350 ? or if anyone knows the best 18350 battery to use please let me know
spoutti
Well-Known Member
I had a similar problem with a 3,7v kiss cart. I would get 3 blink.. Then, I pressed the button 1st and screw my cart while its firing. It then functions normally. Fixes the problem for xmin. x being a few puffs to all night long.
I quitted my sr71 for now; too much trouble. Lets kiss! Now I burned 2 7,4v kiss in a few days. The 2nd one while doing a dry cycle to burn/clean the coil. The black carbonised stuff on my coil didnt dissolve during the overnight iso bath. There is now less carbonised material on the coil, but it doesnt work anymore
The 1st one, I dont know how I did it.My plan is to master the kiss cart. I would greatly appreciate some pointers or links. I read from page 750 to now, but the kiss cart was hardly mentionned. Anw, I was going for the herc sr74. I didnt expect to buy the harder to master sr71 and quit on it. I will be scanning the tread for pointers on how to extend the 7,4v life span
Fredster951
Well-Known Member
@TommydCat I ended up removing the AFF washer on the SR74. No problems at all. I prefer this set up due to the open air flow.
@k3nd4l can't go wrong with both batteries. Buy the cheapest one IMO. I recommend AW. Been solid performers for me. A sony VTC5 is also a good choice. I find vapor shops to stock this battery often.
@k3nd4l can't go wrong with both batteries. Buy the cheapest one IMO. I recommend AW. Been solid performers for me. A sony VTC5 is also a good choice. I find vapor shops to stock this battery often.