Can anyone confirm if the 18650 that were used with the cera are powerful enough to run the persei with its 3.7v attachments? Thanks
I hear ya. I have the entire line of Persei attachments, accessories, glass and power. Luckily I've never had to use the customer service. Everything has been so solid. Didn't know they were moving. Explains the no answer. I've been trying to get this 8 to fire for a month. This thing is driving me crazy. Can't understand how the kanger tank goes but the herc won't. I'm glad to hear some people are getting results from a new button assembly. i want my 8 to work. looks and feels so damn good. had a lot of people ask me about it. luckily i can always get the eliquid to vape so they can see it in action. i guess i will continue to wait...@THC SCIENTIFIC just finished moving to a new facility. Which probably is going cause a small delay in response time. Please try understand, G helps everyone out in this thread. Let's try do him a solid and try be just a little extra patient.
You won't find customer service like this from another vape pen company that's for sure!
I'm still testing my 8 with my new button assembly. But for the most part everything is working great. Like you I was on the verge of giving up on the 8. The new button assembly has my 8 running great with the hercules! I don't have a persei anymore. I'm solely relying on the 8 and my minicron.
YesCan anyone confirm if the 18650 that were used with the cera are powerful enough to run the persei with its 3.7v attachments? Thanks
Hey @masaki, how is the new button assembly treating you?
So far so good. Still needing to rebuild my top a lot. But I'm having solid sessions.
It seems like the contact pins on my 8 get disconnected. I can't get it to fire with out rebuilding it first.Why are you rebuilding the top alot?
@masaki, aren't u still using the old button housing just with the new pins? Bcuz I tried that last night, and it didn't work as good as the new one, even with the new pins! And then, when I put the new longer housing back on, it wasn't working as good now either!! So I took the housing back out and I noticed that for some reason, if u look at the size of the gap between the button screw and the back of the housing where u screw it in, on mine, one side the screw is a little tiny bit tighter than the other, probably bcuz of the threading. Only a little tiny tiny bit but it must be enough to make a difference bcuz I took my button assembly out and spun it around so that the tighter gap was on top and the other side on the bottom, and now I'm back to barely having to press the button hard and perfect draws and bellows of vapor!! So I'm pretty sure it's got alot to do with that button screw. I hope this made sense.It seems like the contact pins on my 8 get disconnected. I can't get it to fire with out rebuilding it first.
how long does the 3.7v take to heat up ? & how long does the 7.4 ? i keep seeing your posts on the 3.7 so i figure you'd have some knowledge on this.. Also for the c02 oil im on the east coast too but im pretty sure its visocity thins it out too much when heated thus having all the oil fall into the reclaim area ? not too sure but this is the idea i got.
I use the black rod often on the original SR74 barrels. One ti coil. I use a Sony VTC5 and AW18650 battery. Battery must be near fully charged for best results. With battery power around the 12-15 second mark I start getting good vapor production. I puff on it very very lightly to get clouds. I usually keep the hammer top on and turn it off when i feel the oil vapor getting too hot and repeat until session is over. When I switch off the button i do light cooldown hits. Also overloading in the black rod is not recommended. It will cause delay in heat up time and weaker vapor production.@Vapoholic420
@lonelyhero
@k3nd4l
MY NYC PEEPZ -- other NY and tri - state peeps
sweeeet --
I'm on LI -- right outside the city -- NYC -- we gotta all chill
I run a studio --- we should do a session !
@k3nd4l
re -- sr74 3.7v and other heat up time
I'm still mastering the 7.4v with batteries ( i never have luck even with aw even -- just me though i guess -- but I'm ok with since - the core is just fine - since as mentioned NY isn't easy on the run YET ......hopefully soon --
but 7.4v on the core has a fairly quick heat up time
as far as time ? -- i use the hammer of course ( wish it was silver like my other :"tools" )
but I keep button pressed 15-20 seconds b4 the clouds r ready to flow ! with the core @ 7.4v...
sometimes need 30 seconds when cold and of course all depends on type of product ..
now that I have the 3.7 rod working -- if it is COLD I feel it needs about A FULL MINUTE TO HEAT UP N START WITH SERIOUS CLOUDS ---
THEN AFTER heated up -- only need to re apply the button for 15 - 20 seconds for each session --
it degrades quickly on batteries --
with the core its standard and stays the same amount of time --
I actually feel the 3.7 needs less than 60 second heat up time when on the core --
again once heated up --- on the core it only needs 10 seconds to jump off again after light cool down ..
im gunna do actual stop watch test when I'm in studio later n ill post -- with core and full charged batts
It is sweet with the 3.7v --- now together with the small stack battery setup its just a drop larger than a bic pen -- perfect for nyc -- just with it matched better -- :_) so vain .. lol
(reclaim always gr8 4 edibles my friends )
@invisiblefriend, that's cool your in NY too. What kind of studio do u run? I would definitely get together for a session with u, but I'm up in Syracuse, NY. It would be a little bit of a trip just for a session. Haha. But I have been to NYC a few times and actually plan on coming down that way again in a couple months. Maybe I'll stop into your studio if you're still interested. It would be cool to meet up with a fellow FC'er and have a session with ya and check out the quality of the oil down in NYC. I'll be sure to bring some from here to let u try out too. ;-) Lmk. And I'll pm ya when I'm coming that way again. I'm pretty sure ur not a cop or anything. Haha. I've seen ya on here posting for a while now.@Vapoholic420
@lonelyhero
@k3nd4l
MY NYC PEEPZ -- other NY and tri - state peeps
sweeeet --
I'm on LI -- right outside the city -- NYC -- we gotta all chill
I run a studio --- we should do a session !
@k3nd4l
re -- sr74 3.7v and other heat up time
I'm still mastering the 7.4v with batteries ( i never have luck even with aw even -- just me though i guess -- but I'm ok with since - the core is just fine - since as mentioned NY isn't easy on the run YET ......hopefully soon --
but 7.4v on the core has a fairly quick heat up time
as far as time ? -- i use the hammer of course ( wish it was silver like my other :"tools" )
but I keep button pressed 15-20 seconds b4 the clouds r ready to flow ! with the core @ 7.4v...
sometimes need 30 seconds when cold and of course all depends on type of product ..
now that I have the 3.7 rod working -- if it is COLD I feel it needs about A FULL MINUTE TO HEAT UP N START WITH SERIOUS CLOUDS ---
THEN AFTER heated up -- only need to re apply the button for 15 - 20 seconds for each session --
it degrades quickly on batteries --
with the core its standard and stays the same amount of time --
I actually feel the 3.7 needs less than 60 second heat up time when on the core --
again once heated up --- on the core it only needs 10 seconds to jump off again after light cool down ..
im gunna do actual stop watch test when I'm in studio later n ill post -- with core and full charged batts
It is sweet with the 3.7v --- now together with the small stack battery setup its just a drop larger than a bic pen -- perfect for nyc -- just with it matched better -- :_) so vain .. lol
(reclaim always gr8 4 edibles my friends )
It seems like the contact pins on my 8 get disconnected. I can't get it to fire with out rebuilding it first.
That's exactly how I assemble it too. The button assembly always moves a little on mine too and it's easier to fix and make sure u get it right if u do the bottom first.Pop the PTFE caps out and insert the pins into them, make sure they're tight and flush and as far in as they can go
put the button (new assembly) in the 8
put the bottom PTFE cap/gold pin in
**usually at this point i notice that inserting it has slightly knocked my button assembly off level or slightly kinked my spring. straighten it out with your finger*
hold the button in ever so slightly and drop the top cap/pin in
significant improvement when doing this
yup same reason I dont use the sr74x parts, the AAF has to much space to move around. Don't know if that is normal but I've been using the regular sr74 parts with the sr74x threadless top cap.The AAF doesn't seem to really fit in the SR-74x all that well - there's an appreciable gap between the nut and AAF (I realize this isn't uncommon, but seems really far - enough that after the chamber heats up, that AAF is going to fall down the shaft away from the holes), whereas it fits nicely into the SR-74 before the X parts were added.
I haven't actually liked the AAF in any position but fully open (no Nibbler XL, yet) so it doesn't affect me in any way - just curious if others seen it
I had a similar problem with a 3,7v kiss cart. I would get 3 blink.. Then, I pressed the button 1st and screw my cart while its firing. It then functions normally. Fixes the problem for xmin. x being a few puffs to all night long.Guys have any of u had problems with a v3 persei top firing the globe?
I just got a replacement top for my v2 and it fires everything but the globe
When i put the globe and press the button it blinks three times. I take the same globe and put it on a minicron and it fired right up. Also, i made a mistake and slapped the globe on when i had the 7.4 tube for the herc and Boom! Globe fired up for a split second, no blinking. Tried again on the 3.7 ss, no luck.
Also, is it me or is this top slimmer. Dont remember being able to feel the ridges between the top and the top.
Btw @invisiblefriend im in Jersey!
Its like nobody dabs in jersey city yet. Im down for a sesh! Lol