Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

Sorry, not a valid "test" IMO. Apples and Oranges.

OK, I won't say it. No need to, it's the way things are. But the second part is definitely wrong. The whole idea of equilibrium is based on that very balance. You've missed the point in the pan of water example I think, the water doesn't get any hotter, it stays at 212F, the only thing that changes is the rate of boil off.

I'm glad you've got happy customers who prefer your new product but that doesn't change the widespread experience that Ceras don't burn the oil as you imply. You don't have guys objecting until the carts are very badly fouled. It's the way it is.

There are posts in this Forum in the last few days that put the two units basically on par I think? Do you contest those evaluations?

I also get that 'exposed heaters are dead end technology' is a great marketing statement, but I suggest not everyone agrees. Lots of guys are mighty happy with DART, Revolution and Cera you know.

As Skeeter Skelton once said, "your doctor might tell you Bourbon has no nutritional value but there's an awful lot of independent experimenters out there that disagree".

OF

Here is where you are wrong OF.

Yes THC vapes around 395F its not gonna combust because its going to vape before it combusts.

But here is how heating vaporizers and SR works.

If vaporization is the only thing that happens in heating wire vaporizers then cleaning isnt needed. Now your gonna tell me that if your oil is clean then your not gonna need to clean your heating wire vape right?

Then why do people clean their vapes?


Now since people need to clean their heating wire vapes, not only does this mean that there is other things there that are not vaporizing and combusting.

This means now your device not only is combustion its producing hybrid vapor. Because looking at that ceramic its literally filled with crap that needs to be cleaned. Until you clean it your combusting because that material is not vaporizing, if it was it wouldnt leave residue behind.

So theory yes heating wire vapes produce hybrid vapor.


Now moving on to the SR.

As Photo said the SR white rod runs at 35 watts when it starts but around 18 watts when its up and running.

Black rod starts around 20 watts and around 10 watts when its up and running.

Less heat needed to vaporize essential oils, not enough heat to combust crap thats in there. Thus eliminating hybrid vapor.

Now my question still stands, can you make a heating wire vape oils without glowing?

 

[Krazzykid]

Ive never experienced a burn or burnt taste with the cera, but its definitely a lot harsher than the black rod. I have yet to get a harsh taste out of the black rod no matter how long i hold down the button.

I am one of the people to say that are basically on par with eachother. At least the white rod and cera EO. Pretty similar results and same taste.

But the black rod, imo, beats the cera hands down. Theres just no comparison.

You really cant go wrong either way. I love the cera and i also love the persei.

These are just my opinions. Im sorry if i stirred up a fight here with my comparisons. I just thought i would compare the two seeing that they are the two top dogs in the oil game.

Ill leave the facts and statistics to you guys though...

I can't speak to the black rod at all(since I have never tried one). I can say though I have never had anything but smooth tasty vapor from my Cera EO.

I understand your experience is different and there could be many reasons on why.
Ex- maybe something is off on yours just a tad(just an example)

I can say I have never fed my EO anything but the highest quality meds and I keep it very clean, maybe that is why the different experiences.

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

I can't speak to the black rod at all(since I have never tried one). I can say though I have never had anything but smooth tasty vapor from my Cera EO.

I understand your experience is different and there could be many reasons on why.
Ex- maybe something is off on yours just a tad(just an example)

I can say I have never fed my EO anything but the highest quality meds and I keep it very clean, maybe that is why the different experiences.

The fact that you have to clean it means that the build up that does not get vaped is combusted.

With the Black rod your not producing anything near 1300F to combust anything that wont get vaped up. In fact this is why Heater wire vapes are old school in our books.

 

[Mynameismud]

I can't speak to the black rod at all(since I have never tried one). I can say though I have never had anything but smooth tasty vapor from my Cera EO.

I understand your experience is different and there could be many reasons on why.
Ex- maybe something is off on yours just a tad(just an example)

I can say I have never fed my EO anything but the highest quality meds and I keep it very clean, maybe that is why the different experiences.

Yeah, i mean dont get me wrong, when i say harsh in regards to the cera, im not reffering to it burning or anything like that. Its more of i just get such a huge dense hit off of it that it ends up irritating or scratching my throat. The taste is always great initally but the taste definitely drops off towards the end of a load. I dont think that can be argued?

I only really noticed it was kinda of harsh after receiving the black rod. Like ive mentioned many times already, for me there is no real noticable difference in technique, length of hit, size of hit, taste or any other catagory really between the white rod and the EO (except white rod can do both oils and herbs if need be). But with the black rod I get similar sized clouds with little to no irritation. My cera hasnt been cleaned since i owned it, so that could be where some of the harshness is coming from, but even when i first got it, the taste still doesnt compare to the black rod.

And for what its worth, ive been using some quality stuff as well and have been using the same stuff betwen the cera and the persei...

 

[Krazzykid]

The fact that you have to clean it means that the build up that does not get vaped is combusted.

With the Black rod your not producing anything near 1300F to combust anything that wont get vaped up. In fact this is why Heater wire vapes are old school in our books.

G I am not going to do this anymore because you are just going to keep changing things.
Originally we were talking about the white rod vs Cera EO, now you are talking about something that isn't even available yet and is in testing with limited people.
How do you know TET won't release something for the Cera that is better than the black rod in the near future?

On the subject of needing cleaning someone just posted 5 or 6 pages back that they were getting burnt taste with the white rod and had to burn it off, so how is this any different than doing a 20-20-20 burn with Cera? You have to clean the SR71 every time you take it apart otherwise it might not make proper contact, so it needs even more cleaning than Cera

What is the max temp of the black rod then if it can't possibly combust?

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

G I am not going to do this anymore because you are just going to keep changing things.
Originally we were talking about the white rod vs Cera EO, now you are talking about something that isn't even available yet and is in testing with limited people.
How do you know TET won't release something for the Cera that is better than the black rod in the near future?

On the subject of needing cleaning someone just posted 5 or 6 pages back that they were getting burnt taste with the white rod and had to burn it off, so how is this any different than doing a 20-20-20 burn with Cera?

What is the max temp of the black rod then if it can't possibly combust?

We are not talking about the black rod we are talking about the white rod, even with the white rod if you pulsate you can achieve the same results. Even with the Black rod its still doing it all what we talked about with some training wheels on it.

You can use the white rod with 6v batteries achieve the same results. You can even use the white rod on a 5v and achieve the same results.

What im saying and only thing im saying is heating wire vapes are old school, the designs are old school. Because you need more power to do the same thing that the Ceramic Heaters can achieve. Even when you realize it, the surface area of the rod helps with this as your gonna need less power to vaporize .5 grams of oil.

As for the burning taste. Look at it this way 35 watts. We took all the breaks off this meaning people can get massive clouds for loads as big as .5 at a time, to little vapor if you pulsate the button.

Just because we took off the breaks doesnt mean you cant achieve it with the White rod. We just made the SR a mother of all Oil Vapes no training wheels type.

Go for massive clouds with 36 watts and hold it none stop. Or go for tiny hits and pulsate like a heart.


On the Herc, you dont have to clean it every time you take it apart, you just have to take the bottom section apart and re assemble it.

For the Power reqs here it is.


3.7v .8 ohms = 16.2 watts to start once its running it goes down to 7 watts to keep it running.

7.4v 1.5 ohms = 35 watts to start and to continue around 20 watts.

I dont have my notes in front of me on the Temps of the rods but im gonna go ahead and say in the area of around 650-850F

 

[Mynameismud]

G I am not going to do this anymore because you are just going to keep changing things.
Originally we were talking about the white rod vs Cera EO, now you are talking about something that isn't even available yet and is in testing with limited people.
How do you know TET won't release something for the Cera that is better than the black rod in the near future?

On the subject of needing cleaning someone just posted 5 or 6 pages back that they were getting burnt taste with the white rod and had to burn it off, so how is this any different than doing a 20-20-20 burn with Cera? You have to clean the SR71 every time you take it apart otherwise it might not make proper contact, so it needs even more cleaning than Cera

What is the max temp of the black rod then if it can't possibly combust?

You do not need to clean the SR71 everytime you take it apart. You only need to clean it if it starts leaking oil into the bottom chamber, which is why it might not make proper contact. And it only leaks if you dont cool it down by hitting it for 15-20 seconds with no power and/or storing it on its side. Ive taken mine apart multiple times with oil loaded and have not had to clean it in order to get it back together and working

Now as far a time cleaning, i can soak all the part in iso for 10 minutes, rinse off with water and then hand dry with a paper towl and reassemble. Total time takes about 15-20 minutes to clean and then 10 seconds after assembled to burn off any remaining liquid.

With the cera (havent cleaned it yet, but im basing this off the dart) i do a 15-20 minute boil, followed by a 15-20 minute iso soak, followed by another 5 minute boil. Then about 10-15 mins in the oven at 200 followed by a 20/20/20 burn or two. And even then all the liquid might not still be gone.

As far as cleaning goes, theres really no comparison. They are both fairly easy to clean, the hercules is just much easier and quicker.

 

[Krazzykid]

We are not talking about the black rod we are talking about the white rod, even with the white rod if you pulsate you can achieve the same results. Even with the Black rod its still doing it all what we talked about with some training wheels on it.

You can use the white rod with 6v batteries achieve the same results. You can even use the white rod on a 5v and achieve the same results.

What im saying and only thing im saying is heating wire vapes are old school, the designs are old school. Because you need more power to do the same thing that the Ceramic Heaters can achieve. Even when you realize it, the surface area of the rod helps with this as your gonna need less power to vaporize .5 grams of oil.

As for the burning taste. Look at it this way 35 watts. We took all the breaks off this meaning people can get massive clouds for loads as big as .5 at a time, to little vapor if you pulsate the button.

Just because we took off the breaks doesnt mean you cant achieve it with the White rod. We just made the SR a mother of all Oil Vapes no training wheels type.

Go for massive clouds with 36 watts and hold it none stop. Or go for tiny hits and pulsate like a heart.


On the Herc, you dont have to clean it every time you take it apart, you just have to take the bottom section apart and re assemble it.

For the Power reqs here it is.


3.7v .8 ohms = 16.2 watts to start once its running it goes down to 7 watts to keep it running.

7.4v 1.5 ohms = 35 watts to start and to continue around 20 watts.

I dont have my notes in front of me on the Temps of the rods but im gonna go ahead and say in the area of around 650F

Look at your own numbers at the bottom, how are you going to tell me the SR uses less power to do the same thing? 7 watts vs 20 watts once all is heated up. Seems to me the Cera uses much less power.
I don't care about vaporizing .5grams in one hit, that is unnecessary and wasteful.

If you are correct and the max temp of the black rod is around 650 then why wouldn't it be able to combust as well?

You do not need to clean the SR71 everytime you take it apart. You only need to clean it if it starts leaking oil into the bottom chamber, which is why it might not make proper contact.

Every time I have taken mine apart I have ended up with oil on the contacts on the rod itself and the collar, which means a cleaning is in order because oil doesn't conduct electricity very well and throws my resistance off.

 

[Caligula]

@THC SCIENTIFIC @BLAZING OG

Damn it. I went to hit my Persei and I felt something drop inside. I already knew what it was. Sure enough my spring compressed a bit (but not all the way). What should I do now? I obviously want to get a replacement part... so how do I do that, and is it safe to raise the adjustment plate up a bit so I can continue to use my Persei?

I really hope so, because if not I'm going to have to make an apple bong or some such nonsense, lol.

 

[Krazzykid]

@THC SCIENTIFIC @BLAZING OG

Damn it. I went to hit my Persei and I felt something drop inside. I already knew what it was. Sure enough my spring compressed a bit (but not all the way). What should I do now? I obviously want to get a replacement part... so how do I do that, and is it safe to raise the adjustment plate up a bit so I can continue to use my Persei?

I really hope so, because if not I'm going to have to make an apple bong or some such nonsense, lol.

I am not THC or Blazing OG but I will throw my 2 cents in anyways. Feel free to ignore if you want, it won't hurt my feelings.

These "hot springs" or collapsible springs are a safety feature, kinda like a fuse.
Once the spring has collapsed the fuse is blown, if you will. If you continue to use it and the same problem that caused the collapse pops up again you may have more serious side effects(such as battery meltdown)
My advice is to wait for a new one, and to fix whatever issue caused it in the first place.

 

[Caligula]

Issue is fixed (probably), however I am still concerned about using the spring. :/ Guess Ill hhave to wait until Monday to call UPT.

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

@THC SCIENTIFIC @BLAZING OG

Damn it. I went to hit my Persei and I felt something drop inside. I already knew what it was. Sure enough my spring compressed a bit (but not all the way). What should I do now? I obviously want to get a replacement part... so how do I do that, and is it safe to raise the adjustment plate up a bit so I can continue to use my Persei?

I really hope so, because if not I'm going to have to make an apple bong or some such nonsense, lol.

Contact support on Monday they will guide you. Until then please be careful. That spring is collapsing for a reason.

Look at your own numbers at the bottom, how are you going to tell me the SR uses less power to do the same thing? 7 watts vs 20 watts once all is heated up. Seems to me the Cera uses much less power.
I don't care about vaporizing .5grams in one hit, that is unnecessary and wasteful.

If you are correct and the max temp of the black rod is around 650 then why wouldn't it be able to combust as well?


Every time I have taken mine apart I have ended up with oil on the contacts on the rod itself and the collar, which means a cleaning is in order because oil doesn't conduct electricity very well and throws my resistance off.

Oh the power Reqs are for the Hercules SR.

Let me rephrase.

3.7v Black Rod.

16.2 watts to get going and will run down to about 7-9 watts to keep going.

3.7v Blue rod. Yes this still does oils but requires a little bit of heat up time.

12.2 watts to get going and will run down to about 5-7 watts to keep going.

7.4v White rod.

36 watts to get going and about 20 watts to continue.


Now your saying you have a Hercules Sr 71? since your saying you have taken it apart and have oil on the contacts of your Herc. I can help you avoid oil by following a few steps. Let me know if you are interested in doing a small skype chat while your at home and ill get you squared away.


But back to doing some discussions

This is what is inside the Omicron Cartridge after heavy use. Now you have to understand these are designed to be thrown out. After 1 gram the taste starts to go down hill.

Now when you look at other vapes you have to clean them or the taste just goes bad, that is why you have to clean your vape because of the ceramic holding on to the junk thats in the oil. Well when that junk does not vaporize and your pushing 1300F what do you think that junk does? Combust? If there is no combustion present then you would not need to clean your vape right? Since everything vapes off nothing is left behind, but no that is not possible because oils arnt 100% clean.

No matter how you look at it 5 watts is what is needed to vaporizer oil using a wire heater. Proof Omicron Cartridges 2.5 ohms at 3.7v = 5.4 watts and it still vapes.

1 reason that i can think of right now is: Surface Area. 5 Watts is what is needed to make that heater reach 500F. Now when your looking at the Herc SR Black heater the surface area is about 25 times bigger but only needing 4 times more power to reach vaping temperatures.

Now here is something to think about.


If the Herc SR Black reaches 600F that means its only vaping and or combusting up to 600F anything above that you wont inhale.

But take the 1300F heater. Not only are you vaping off the oil, but your also combusting what is inside the oils that wont vape off at 400F that means 500-1300F range of inhaling stuff.


I dont think you can say your not when really is the case.

 

[Cheerful Dub]

So all of this talk reminds me of my first real "user report" on the Cera after a heavy road trip, here were my findings as of this March - quoting myself from the Cera thread:

As one of my buddies discovered you can "burn" the oil suspended in the ceramic by holding the switch down and not inhaling.

What this means to me is that as long as you are inhaling at a slow rate, even if it is really "low" on load, it will produce something. An interesting side effect and probably related to the concentrate manufacture is that the vapor production is surprisingly high as the medication drops off. I'm not sure if this is "impurities" or just what's remaining, but I'd imagine it's the other side of the coin Tim mentioned a long time ago - the goodies/absolute best materials vape off at such a low temperature, this is why the first few goes automatically taste superior to a nail.

Similarly as long as you draw through it constantly it seems much less likely to "burn" or "claim up" the remaining concentrate. For me this was a sticking point with the Rev/Dart combo, if people didn't know how to draw appropriately not only did they get a shitty intake, they basically burned up whatever was loaded so it tasted super "claimy" until that was all vaped out and reloaded.

In my experience with all three of these high end concentrate devices (Dart, Cera, Hercules 7.4 White Rod), none of them are "automatic" and I can't see the day where they ever will be - or should be. The user needs to know to feather the throttle in relation to their draw speed on all of them so that they don't over-cook the oil. They also need to do a "cool down" draw for best lifespan. I believe you can over-cook in any device powerful enough to vaporize the oil in the first place, regardless of wattage/voltage/etc. I have no experience with the black rod @ 3.7v so I can't say if you truly can "hold the power down and forget about it" and never cook the oil, but that is not really a concern of mine.

Put a dozen+ grams through your EO cores and tell me how they hit before you clean them... they will be dumping this "hybrid vapor" and lots of it. It tastes dry, tacky and whispy but produces volumes of "vapor". The "black goo" is what seeps out of the bottom of the carts when you soak them (or creeps back up through your fresh load if it's straight up completely fouled) and is identical to the fouled up gunk on the silica rope in that omicron cart image. Black as the night.

I honestly don't believe from my experience vaporizing any substance off any atomizer that this "junkening" is relative to a "foil test" or concentrate purity whatsoever. You can vape 100% VG juice on a high-end rebuildable atomizer with freshly torched Kanthal wire & wick and the wire will have all sorts of buildup and black funk on it after a week of heavy use, at which point you rip it out and rebuild it.

There are certainly no machining residues from the canning process that are "present" or "fouling" the e-juice, particularly as it is vaporized, yet the atomizers still need to be cleaned and rebuilt for performance. I've visited the lab of the first and most professional US based e-juice manufacturer where the guys are in full tyvek bunny suits mixing everything up, not because the chemicals are dangerous but because they need to keep their hair/skin cells/etc from contaminating the end product. Serious quality controls and absolutely none of the "impurities" or "industrial lubricants" or whatever you could speculate is in the junkiest BHO, yet the devices still foul up and need to be cleaned and rebuilt for optimal performance.

So then it becomes an issue of how well you can disassemble/break down the connections of the device and clean the components independently so that there are no "crevices" or "flat spots" or weird "wells" for things to "pool" or "collect" or "hide" during soaking/baking/burnoff, etc - at least as far as eliminating your down-time and keeping your devices optimized for strict vaporizing performance, as it were.

With that being said Nibbler XL, take me to the moon, exit stage left:

 

[OF]

If vaporization is the only thing that happens in heating wire vaporizers then cleaning isnt needed. Now your gonna tell me that if your oil is clean then your not gonna need to clean your heating wire vape right?

Now since people need to clean their heating wire vapes, not only does this mean that there is other things there that are not vaporizing and combusting.

This means now your device not only is combustion its producing hybrid vapor. Because looking at that ceramic its literally filled with crap that needs to be cleaned. Until you clean it your combusting because that material is not vaporizing, if it was it wouldnt leave residue behind.

That's just plain silly. You have to clean it because it's dirty. Junk other than THC in the oil. The more junk, the more you have to clean it.

Combustion means something different in Science than marketing. It means 'chemically combining with oxygen to make new compounds'. Science has already claimed definition of the term, we don't get to use it as we wish and be taken seriously.

Let's put this another way. Torch a Cera cart in the presence of oxygen and what happens? The junk then does combust (convert to mostly CO2 and water vapor) and is no longer there. That's what combustion is. The charcoal (carbon) in the BBQ burns away.

Contrary to your assertion that residue in the Cera is proof there's combustion, the exact opposite is true. It is proof it has not burned. No combustion

The fact that you have to clean it means that the build up that does not get vaped is combusted.

Nice photo, BTW. Interesting how you separated it from the text I published with it that pointed out the contamination build up was subject to the quality of the oil. And it's evidence of combustion since that ash won't wash out with solvents, which the collected junk in Cera, and SR71 coils will?

Once again, you clean your vape because the junk is not combusting. If it was burning (that's what combustion is, burning) it would be gone 'up in smoke'. As it does when you torch it off. What you've just proven is combustion must not be happening.

G I am not going to do this anymore because you are just going to keep changing things.

On the subject of needing cleaning someone just posted 5 or 6 pages back that they were getting burnt taste with the white rod and had to burn it off, so how is this any different than doing a 20-20-20 burn with Cera?

Yeah, I know that one. It can be frustrating for sure. Not my favorite way to discuss stuff for sure. I often just let is pass, but sometimes stuff gets put out at fact that just doesn't square with my understanding of how things work and I feel kind of compelled to speak out lest the innocent take it too seriously and try to use that 'understanding' in the future.

The same factors in play in one vape happen in the next. No magic. Just sound engineering shifting stuff around within the rules.

Marketing aside we know that heat is heat and junk is junk. It doesn't really matter if you put the hot wire inside a ceramic body or not it's the heat that does the work. Thermodynamics does not have factors for different kinds of heat, one set of Laws has to apply in all cases. Let's not lose sight of the fact that Thermodynamics is a set of Laws. We're not talking Theory here (like in Einstein's Theory of Relativity). Theories come from ideas that have been successfully defended from one's peers (we don't have even that here) and don't become Laws until they've been exhaustively challenged, usually over many lifetimes. A single repeatable exception proves they're not Laws. Laws are about as close as science comes to facts. Students are advised to threat them as fact and base their judgements on them. It's not, IMO, appropriate to modify or ignore Laws in an attempt to promote ideas or products in their name.

The Laws of Thermodynamics define how heat works in our world, just as combustion defines a specific set of chemical reactions. We don't get to change that for our convenience.

"Make no adjustment to your mind, we've discovered a fault in reality" is a joke, not sound advice.

OF

 

[Darb]

Ahhh i want an Iris! Do you have a blue rod by any chance? Thats what im more interested in the iris for...

I have the blue rod. Got some wispy hits with some charring of my herb. Will have to try again later. I'm looking foreword to trying the black rod myself. What did you want to try with the blue rod/Iris?

 

[Mynameismud]

I have the blue rod. Got some wispy hits with some charring of my herb. Will have to try again later. I'm looking foreword to trying the black rod myself. What did you want to try with the blue rod/Iris?

I was told with just herbs it works much better with an Iris top set at around 4.2 (i believe)

I have had a similar but also different experience with the blue rod and just the persei. Ive only used it a few times before i moved onto the black rod and i just cant take the black rod out after using it. But anyway with the blue rod and just herbs i got maybe 1-2 really good sized hits per load (took a lot longer than 30 second preheat though) and then a bunch of whispy hits. But when i open it up, the herb is still basically the same color as when i put it in, no gold, no brown, no charring. I did notice it was a little black after i would throw some oil in, but it was also very sticky still when i removed it so im assuming it was left over oil and not charring

Every time I have taken mine apart I have ended up with oil on the contacts on the rod itself and the collar, which means a cleaning is in order because oil doesn't conduct electricity very well and throws my resistance off.

With the white rod, after i realized that you needed to cool it down and store on its side, i would notice some oil on the threads and the nut that holds the rod in place even after cooling and side storing. But not so much on the metal contacts of the rod. But even if there was oil on the contacts of rod, a simple iso soak and rinse would clean it up and you wouldnt need to clean the whole cartridge.

If your getting oil on the metal contact though, especially the bottom one that fits into the center pin, you might not be cooling it down enough and/or storing it on its side. Who knows for sure though. The only time i had that issue was when i would stand it upright immediately after taking a hit. Without cooling it down. Just saying.

But regardless, the time it takes to fully clean and dry a hercules is about the same amount of time i spend doing the first boil of the cera/dart cartridge. And comparing it to my dart as i havent cleaned my cera yet, i feel that my hercules is way cleaner afterwards then i could ever get my dart...

Im planning on cleaning my cera in the next few days so i can really compare to how it tastes with the black rod though so we will see.

 

[Darb]

Does anybody know the email contact for W9 tech? I can't find it anywhere.

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

Does anybody know the email contact for W9 tech? I can't find it anywhere.

Use the submit ticket option on the site. Best way to contact us ATM.

 

[PhotoRider]

G, what determines weather or not the oil will burn has a lot to do with how quickly new oil surrounds the heating element as the old oil is vaped away.
The omicron carts use silica to carry the oil to the heating element, and oil does not travel through silica the best. That is probably the most determining factor on burnt taste in this application. Am I saying the Cera can't burn oil, no I'm not saying that at all. The Sr71 can burn oil just as easy as well. Under proper use though(with the proper material) neither should.

Now to that picture you showed of the DISASSEMBLED EO core, that is not a complete core and it also doesn't have any oil in it at all. So that proves nothing to weather or not it would glow when loaded, nor does it speak to the thermodynamics of the core at all.

So when you said "lets put thermodynamics to the test here" that means nothing.


Yes the rod drops in watts after it heats up, but so does heating wire.
Edit. What I really meant is as it heats up the resistance of the rod or wire changes, which in turn changes the watts delivered

WRONG - I measured it and the EO continues to draw the same current at the same voltage forever. You are 100% wrong

Please take your own advice and do not spread miss information on the EO It will draw 4.5+ amps on my Cera until the battery drops. For over 4 min. I know OF disagrees in theory, but like OF said, reality is the proof and my 3 EO continue to draw the same current at the same voltage. All near 5A with Cera use. That's reality. I can prove it. So i guess since its reality, then the EO do draw the same power and vary from 4-5 amps depending on the cart.
It is important to note the SR-71 drops power as it heats until its 50% the initial draw. EO does not do that period guys.

You guys seem to be spinning the data also in my mind. You are as biased as you claim G is. Its like a soap opera guys.


BTW thermodynamics follows the same rules as electron flow. Nothing special there. The wire or heater still can go to 1300F. You have provided ZERO data to prove otherwise. Interesting you claim reality, but I see nothing but opinions here. The wire can be 1300. It depends on how fast the heat is wicked away verses how fast its added. If there is isolation there it will go to 1300 if it isn't wicked away fast enough.

So lets see some real measurement data and not just you biased opinions guys or you are pissing into the wind.

 

[kindbeats]

WRONG - I measured it and the EO continues to draw the same current at the same voltage forever. You are 100% wrong

Please take your own advice and do not spread miss information on the EO It will draw 4.5+ amps on my Cera until the battery drops. For over 4 min. I know OF disagrees in theory, but like OF said, reality is the proof and my 3 EO continue to draw the same current at the same voltage. All near 5A with Cera use. That's reality. I can prove it. So i guess since its reality, then the EO do draw the same power and vary from 4-5 amps depending on the cart.
It is important to note the SR-71 drops power as it heats until its 50% the initial draw. EO does not do that period guys.

You guys seem to be spinning the data also in my mind. You are as biased as you claim G is. Its like a soap opera guys.


BTW thermodynamics follows the same rules as electron flow. Nothing special there. The wire or heater still can go to 1300F. You have provided ZERO data to prove otherwise. Interesting you claim reality, but I see nothing but opinions here. The wire can be 1300. It depends on how fast the heat is wicked away verses how fast its added. If there is isolation there it will go to 1300 if it isn't wicked away fast enough.

So lets see some real measurement data and not just you biased opinions guys or you are pissing into the wind.

Well said and glad that it was someone neutral to the situation. It really does seem like what started out as an interesting "compare and contrast" of two awesome items has now devolved into a TET vs W9Tech pissing match and it kind of makes everyone involved seem like bickering children. I think what @PhotoRider suggested is a great idea. Provide actual measurements and first hand results, pics, videos, etc. Otherwise, it's the equivalent of someone yelling, "don't listen to him because I'M right!" and that shit gets old really quick.

 

[Mynameismud]

Well said and glad that it was someone neutral to the situation. It really does seem like what started out as an interesting compare and contrast of two awesome items has now devolved into a TET vs W9Tech pissing match and it kind of makes everyone involved seem like bickering children. I think what @PhotoRider suggested is a great idea. Provide actual measurements and first hand results, pics, videos, etc. Otherwise, it's the equivalent of someone yelling, "don't listen to him because I'M right!" and that shit gets old really quick.

I know right. I feel like the SR71 and Cera are currently the two best options for oils right now. And the both work just as well. at least the eo and white rod, theres just some minor differences. It only seemed logical to do a compare and contrast. Then a day later theres like 4 pages of bickering back and forth. Makes me feel like i started a war .

 

[kindbeats]

I know right. I feel like the SR71 and Cera are currently the two best options for oils right now. And the both work just as well. at least the eo and white rod, theres just some minor differences. It only seemed logical to do a compare and contrast. Then a day later theres like 4 pages of bickering back and forth. Makes me feel like i started a war .

You meant well, my good man. You put the ball in play but you weren't the one who took it out of bounds. Yeah, I literally don't watch any sports besides MMA so excuse me for the horrible metaphor.

 

[PhotoRider]

@Mynameismud yes you created this Your Name Is Mud!



The bottom-line for me is each device is different for reasons the design teams decided upon. Therefore they will have opinions why they believe its better, that's why they went that route. A conscience choice.

e.g. ceramic rod verses wire is one choice.

They were many I am sure. Many are not black and white therefore depend on the users "use model" so some will like one over the other AKA tastes great - less filling situation.

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

please guys dont think we are bickering, it is a discussion forum and we are discussing.


I take OF's words as wisdom from a engineer who knows his universal laws of physics.

There are two sides to each story.

Even he cant deny that heating wires are not as efficient since you needing 1300F compared to 600F.

But one thing we all need to understand is this.

Oil needs to be vaporized at max 500F.

From 500-1300F this means if what ever else your combusting or vaporizing isnt what you need.

Now if you have build up even after 1300F then this doesnt mean you didnt combust it or didnt vaporize it. This means from 500-1300F you combusted and vaporized everything.

So to use a Black rod that reaches around 600-800F this means your a little more safer as your not reaching 1300F.


On a side note Pass through tests.

 

[Highnstein]

Got a little bit interested until I saw the price. $330 for the Persei + SR cart. It would be $350 for the Cera oil+loose leaf cart and they are all hand assembled with US materials and zirconia. Not hard to tell which one has the bigger profit margin....

Also, what is to stop me from buying a SR-71 3.7v cart and a m601-510 adapter to be used by a mechanical e-cig mod? I have been highly skeptical of D9's quality of materials since everything I bought just ended up breaking and getting replaced.

Make a high quality wax cartridge like the sr-71 (if it does perform as well as G says) that also fits into the industry's 510 threading standard. I sure will see a lot more reason to look forward to D9 products and purchase them. Hell, the Chinese-made cart itself is already $130 by itself. Sounds like a lot of profit if D9 can stand by their carts and let anyone with an e-cig use it. That's how Thermovape got my loyalty with their Revolution cart anyways. (I thought $60 for a cart was expensive.. ended up buying multiple carts soon after.)