Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.
- Thread starter THC SCIENTIFIC
- Start date
I am.
should i use the 60 gauge? I just noticed his was a 7.4
and which insulators are the correct ones?
The 60 and 80 refer to the metal content of the wire. The gauge for 7.4v is 32g. 5 wraps around the 7/64" wick. I totally abused the first one I rebuilt (from the photo tutorial) for months with dry-burns, digging in it with dabbers and many grams of errl. You do not want it to get too hot too fast. I have used smaller gauge( lower resistance) wire but it tends to give me a burnt taste a lot easier than the 32 g.(longer button push= burn taste).
Edit: Still experimenting with 3.7v. I ordered some 26g NiChrome 80 to try some 3.7v rebuilds.
215z
Well-Known Member
I used 28g kanthal a-1.
Don't know if it is best.
Coil build is personal preference at some level. I like to vape off the wick, not the coil. So I like my coils to be heavy and large.
Some people vape off the coil, and they prefer a hotter coil that is more responsive.
At your local ecig b&m, you should be able to pick up different wires sold in 2ft or 3ft quantities @itschad
Don't know if it is best.
Coil build is personal preference at some level. I like to vape off the wick, not the coil. So I like my coils to be heavy and large.
Some people vape off the coil, and they prefer a hotter coil that is more responsive.
At your local ecig b&m, you should be able to pick up different wires sold in 2ft or 3ft quantities @itschad
MyWomanCooks
Active Member
Ok so I've been having battery blinks on 2 18350 batteries. what I have come to the conclusion is that it seems part battery a little top issues. I have 2 v3 tops they both work great on the core no issues. But after I sent in my Last v2 top I noticed I could no longer double up the stock batteries. They would work separately just fine but doubled up stops working. @THCSCIENTIFIC the newer top I have blinks everyevery time it touches power. The older top seems to blink maybe 50% of the time. When it does blink the the top acts as normal you can click 5 times and it shuts on and off.. The other times it doesn't blink once the top is connected it is already on, no need for the 5 clicks. Long story short I bought some new batteries from my vap shop (cuz I don't want to wait for the mail) 2 18650 3.7v 2500 mAh (could someone explain mAh please the was a 3500 mAh i asked the guy across the counter if they carried protected 18350 and you will not believe his answer....that kind technology doesn't exist OMFG. So I go to a different vape shop and buy some protected efest 18350 and the efest batteries are 800 mAh) but in the end the new batteries fixed the double up issue. The stock batteries worked great for everything but the herc but that stopped with the v3 top. Hope my short story helps.
215z
Well-Known Member
@MyWomanCooks are you using a kiss or a Hercules?
MyWomanCooks
Active Member
Well I have only had the herc work the way it should is on the core. I do use kiss carts when I'm mobile. I also use a kiss globe.
SamuraiSam
Extraction Technician
I have never seen protected 18350 the smallest protected batteries I have seen are 18500 I think the guy is right.
mAh is milliAmphours. In electrical terms the small m prefix means milli, or one-thousandth. big A means amps short for Amperes - are the amount of electrons flowing. h for hours, so the amount of milliamp hoursr of a battery is a measure of its total charge capacity.
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MyWomanCooks
Active Member
Are aw imr 18350 not protected batteries?
Hmm ok well I just learned something then I thought imr were protected batteries.
Hmm ok well I just learned something then I thought imr were protected batteries.
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SamuraiSam
Extraction Technician
No. All IMR means is that the battery has a lithium/manganese containing cathode. IMR is not safer than any other type of lithium-ion battery and they certainly aren't all protected. Check out http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?325456-What-exactly-does-quot-IMR-quot-mean for a little more detailed chemistry info
As far as the AW's go, referring to http://www.rtdvapor.com/batteries/ the first 1 1/2 rows listed in red are all unprotected AW's and the next 2 1/2 rows of black ones are protected AW.
As far as the AW's go, referring to http://www.rtdvapor.com/batteries/ the first 1 1/2 rows listed in red are all unprotected AW's and the next 2 1/2 rows of black ones are protected AW.
Really want to buy a persei but tryna wait to see when the new tops are being released
I'm very much enjoying my ophos but getting to the point where Its just not quite powerful enough
I'm very much enjoying my ophos but getting to the point where Its just not quite powerful enough
@@@@@ MAH really should be "mAh" since it stands for milliamp-hours.
It represents the number of hours that the battery is supposed to be able to provide one milliamp of current.
Example: If your device draws 50 milliamps and you have 2600 milliamp-hour battery, the battery *should* last 52 hours.
A bigger mAh value is better, but I'm not convinced manufacturers label their batteries honestly.
It represents the number of hours that the battery is supposed to be able to provide one milliamp of current.
Example: If your device draws 50 milliamps and you have 2600 milliamp-hour battery, the battery *should* last 52 hours.
A bigger mAh value is better, but I'm not convinced manufacturers label their batteries honestly.
- actually they are always 15-20 % off the labels !
(just from my experience)
@@@@@ thx 4 more super advice my friends -- I ran down to my local shop and yes they had some coil -- I'm questioning the gauge though since the sales rep had no clue and not labeled / just labeled with types of metal
-- ill figure out -- I need to get a tester/ meter asap !
@@@@@ A small question if anyone knows -- I saw someone mention the model of the Persei they have --- as far as the top and all … I know they don't make double tops any longer … I also assume they don't make the stainless steel any longer -- I see the Kiss carts still come in SS -- but the Persei seems to be grey / matte grey instead of the older Stainless ones ? Still HOT
I'm not sure though if SS avail ? …..
But I am actually wondering what version or model is currently out / for sale ?
I just saw someone mention something about a new Persei TOP model ? hmmm ? I also thought a few weeks ago someone mentioned a V4 …. ? I thought maybe they were only at V3 currently ? any info would be great ! thx so much
Everyone here is such a gr8 community of true Kind caring honest peeps ! I thank everyone ---
ps I bought new batteries (thank u for all the community advice !!!) the ones that were shipped weren't working properly YeT ….. (the CORE came in serious use and PROVED itself ! over n over n over -- now that I got batteries they just got full charge and time to test on the run !
again much respect ! hope everyone is having gr8 wknd ! peace
MyWomanCooks
Active Member
So I want black imr batteries for the 8
SamuraiSam
Extraction Technician
@invisiblefriend yep you will absolutely need a DVOM (digital Volt and Ohm meter) if you're going to try rebuilding carts
The double tops only existed with the V1 Persei. The V1 was available in Black with Chrome rings and Chrome with Black rings. Starting with V2 they became available with a rainbow of colors but Chrome went away in favor of Silver.
The newest, current model of Persei for sale anywhere and straight from UP Tech is V3, that's the protruding-button top. The new model you have seen discussed will be the V4 when it comes out. The V4 you saw mentioned is a lucky tester who's trying out the new top. By top they mean the top portion of the vape with the button and threads for cart.
The Persei never came in Stainless steel the bodies are Aluminum with an anodized finish. If you would like a stainless steel vape you should check out the 8.
Glad to hear the new batteries fixed your problem! I just got a Core about the same time as you and I'm digging it. I like a lot about it, but there's a few things that nag at me for a hundred bucks.
@MyWomanCooks possibly. Honestly I'm going to try out my unprotected AW's first and see how they work. I never run my batteries low enough to hit the low voltage protection, and I'll be storing my batts in battery cases outside of the vape, so I'm not too worried. YMMV. I will probably eventually pick up some protected 2x18500 for 7.4 with the included shorty tube and maybe some of those super high mAh rated 18650's, eventually...
This is the part where I feel bad for being honest since I'm talking about a company whose products I absolutely love. I sure like the consistent power output and ability to dial in what I want! But honestly, that's about it. I feel like the Core is a 1st gen device and could use some further thought.
The fit and finish of the unit is pretty good, it's solid and rather light. Most of the unit has amazing fitment, but the front panel of mine doesn't sit flush. there is a gap at the top just above the display and it's particularly noticeable just underneath the Front power cable. I'm not a fan of this cable being 1. Permanently attached and 2. So thick and inflexible compared to other cables I've used like the D-nail cable is super flexible. I bet Flexo has a nice flexy cable compared to this one.
The buttons are not just small they are tiny. I think smaller than the Iris buttons and this is on a desk top unit. I dislike having to press both buttons together to change the voltage. I don't know why a 'safety' is necessary to change voltage at all. Having to do this makes using the Core to actually change voltage fairly cumbersome especially while holding a Nibbler equipped device that you can't set down with the plug on the bottom. It takes a long time to go from 3.7 to 8.4 as I go between 3.7 and 7.4 KISS, SR-74 Black rod, SR-71 white rod, and Bender. I sure like the consistent power output and ability to dial in what I want! But if the thing had a rotary dial to change voltage at whatever speed you wanted instead of having to set it like a 20 year old VCR or alarm clock 1 tick at a time, and a display I could actually read (Either larger, or angled up slightly) I would be super stoked. I'm sorry to post so much negative stuff but these are my first honest impressions on using it for just a few days. Maybe it will irk me less as I get used to it.
Actually using the thing with the SR-71 has been a pure joy. I'm still in disbelief how much more power the -71 has over the -74 and it's awesome to be able to regulate it with the Core. I got a Bender at the same time and haven't tried it out yet. That's coming up later tonight...
The double tops only existed with the V1 Persei. The V1 was available in Black with Chrome rings and Chrome with Black rings. Starting with V2 they became available with a rainbow of colors but Chrome went away in favor of Silver.
The newest, current model of Persei for sale anywhere and straight from UP Tech is V3, that's the protruding-button top. The new model you have seen discussed will be the V4 when it comes out. The V4 you saw mentioned is a lucky tester who's trying out the new top. By top they mean the top portion of the vape with the button and threads for cart.
The Persei never came in Stainless steel the bodies are Aluminum with an anodized finish. If you would like a stainless steel vape you should check out the 8.
Glad to hear the new batteries fixed your problem! I just got a Core about the same time as you and I'm digging it. I like a lot about it, but there's a few things that nag at me for a hundred bucks.
@MyWomanCooks possibly. Honestly I'm going to try out my unprotected AW's first and see how they work. I never run my batteries low enough to hit the low voltage protection, and I'll be storing my batts in battery cases outside of the vape, so I'm not too worried. YMMV. I will probably eventually pick up some protected 2x18500 for 7.4 with the included shorty tube and maybe some of those super high mAh rated 18650's, eventually...
This is the part where I feel bad for being honest since I'm talking about a company whose products I absolutely love. I sure like the consistent power output and ability to dial in what I want! But honestly, that's about it. I feel like the Core is a 1st gen device and could use some further thought.
The fit and finish of the unit is pretty good, it's solid and rather light. Most of the unit has amazing fitment, but the front panel of mine doesn't sit flush. there is a gap at the top just above the display and it's particularly noticeable just underneath the Front power cable. I'm not a fan of this cable being 1. Permanently attached and 2. So thick and inflexible compared to other cables I've used like the D-nail cable is super flexible. I bet Flexo has a nice flexy cable compared to this one.
The buttons are not just small they are tiny. I think smaller than the Iris buttons and this is on a desk top unit. I dislike having to press both buttons together to change the voltage. I don't know why a 'safety' is necessary to change voltage at all. Having to do this makes using the Core to actually change voltage fairly cumbersome especially while holding a Nibbler equipped device that you can't set down with the plug on the bottom. It takes a long time to go from 3.7 to 8.4 as I go between 3.7 and 7.4 KISS, SR-74 Black rod, SR-71 white rod, and Bender. I sure like the consistent power output and ability to dial in what I want! But if the thing had a rotary dial to change voltage at whatever speed you wanted instead of having to set it like a 20 year old VCR or alarm clock 1 tick at a time, and a display I could actually read (Either larger, or angled up slightly) I would be super stoked. I'm sorry to post so much negative stuff but these are my first honest impressions on using it for just a few days. Maybe it will irk me less as I get used to it.
Actually using the thing with the SR-71 has been a pure joy. I'm still in disbelief how much more power the -71 has over the -74 and it's awesome to be able to regulate it with the Core. I got a Bender at the same time and haven't tried it out yet. That's coming up later tonight...
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215z
Well-Known Member
I'm not a fan of the protected cells (black in the AW line).
Their maximum current output is very low because of the protection circuit.
I would be vigilant in selecting protected cells, to ensure they will support the current draw of the Hercules (5.25A black rod worst case). It is not like the protection circuit kicks in immediately upon dead short, anyway. [citation required]
No battery chemistry is safe, but some ARE safer than others. LiFePo is safer than LiMn, which is safer than Li-Ion, which is safer than LiPo.
Their maximum current output is very low because of the protection circuit.
I would be vigilant in selecting protected cells, to ensure they will support the current draw of the Hercules (5.25A black rod worst case). It is not like the protection circuit kicks in immediately upon dead short, anyway. [citation required]
No battery chemistry is safe, but some ARE safer than others. LiFePo is safer than LiMn, which is safer than Li-Ion, which is safer than LiPo.
thank you for all the advice my friend ----
So I have the V3 -- perfect n thx --- I wonder what the changes will be in v4 -- ill look back I guess and see if I can find the discussion …
An incredible product with endless uses ! and perfect 4 Herc ! but I must say I agree about the core a drop .. yet I havnt used the buttons much but understand what u r saying ----
I can understand the other frustrations ---- of course the convenience is incredible -- but maybe a few changes in the future ?
The one part I just cannot stand is how stiff the power wire is but they probably needed due to the gauge wire maybe ? -- but I don't like the feel of the wire coming out the bottom getting caught up on shizz ..
but overall --- its a sweet product 4 its purpose --
Im sure the next gen will address these issues
so the sr - 71
It really is all that huh ? a lot of peeps have said the same !
I wonder why it isn't still offered as a secondary option ?
what is the actual difference between the 71 n 74 ?
Actually I have an sr-74 question ----- I started out sanitizing and getting used to the unit ---
I used instructions online step by step - and on the rebuild -- it says to look and should see the ceramic "glow" ---- I have it getting hot hot --- and I can get vapor of course after I put back together and do as instructed 10 second button pushes …. But should I have seen anything actually glowing ? like the coils glow ? orange ? or it just means getting really hot ?
thank you again friends
So I have the V3 -- perfect n thx --- I wonder what the changes will be in v4 -- ill look back I guess and see if I can find the discussion …
An incredible product with endless uses ! and perfect 4 Herc ! but I must say I agree about the core a drop .. yet I havnt used the buttons much but understand what u r saying ----
I can understand the other frustrations ---- of course the convenience is incredible -- but maybe a few changes in the future ?
The one part I just cannot stand is how stiff the power wire is but they probably needed due to the gauge wire maybe ? -- but I don't like the feel of the wire coming out the bottom getting caught up on shizz ..
but overall --- its a sweet product 4 its purpose --
Im sure the next gen will address these issues
so the sr - 71
It really is all that huh ? a lot of peeps have said the same !
I wonder why it isn't still offered as a secondary option ?
what is the actual difference between the 71 n 74 ?
Actually I have an sr-74 question ----- I started out sanitizing and getting used to the unit ---
I used instructions online step by step - and on the rebuild -- it says to look and should see the ceramic "glow" ---- I have it getting hot hot --- and I can get vapor of course after I put back together and do as instructed 10 second button pushes …. But should I have seen anything actually glowing ? like the coils glow ? orange ? or it just means getting really hot ?
thank you again friends
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MyWomanCooks
Active Member
I would like to see a few preset voltage buttons on a core v2
Thanks for these links that cleared up a lot
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ohdono
high more than not
hey guys im looking to get a ohm meter, wondering which ones you guys use?
the first one has a couple reviews on amazon and other places saying its cheap
http://www.dhgate.com/product/whole...the-internet/182527411.html#s1-22-1|627316985
http://www.dhgate.com/product/atomi...-tester-for/190348136.html#s4-20-1|2458886710
http://www.dhgate.com/product/ego-a...ance-tester/177917119.html#s3-13-1|3074740315
if alot of you have the first one and it works fine, ill save my money and get that one
the first one has a couple reviews on amazon and other places saying its cheap
http://www.dhgate.com/product/whole...the-internet/182527411.html#s1-22-1|627316985
http://www.dhgate.com/product/atomi...-tester-for/190348136.html#s4-20-1|2458886710
http://www.dhgate.com/product/ego-a...ance-tester/177917119.html#s3-13-1|3074740315
if alot of you have the first one and it works fine, ill save my money and get that one
ohdono ….. meetoo -- I was just looking at those meters .. ?? not sure which I should pull trigger on but i need asap --
'''' just rebuilt kiss cart -- was amazingly easy n rewarding -- lol
but Im not going to try it on there Persei till I know the voltage n all ---- I tried on an ole twist battery with 510 adapter and was shocked -- it worked !!!!!!! I think I just need some thinner gauge wire no doubt ! ""
lookin at 1 of those meters ----- I'm gunna try a local store tmro n see if they reasonable ….
'''' just rebuilt kiss cart -- was amazingly easy n rewarding -- lol
but Im not going to try it on there Persei till I know the voltage n all ---- I tried on an ole twist battery with 510 adapter and was shocked -- it worked !!!!!!! I think I just need some thinner gauge wire no doubt ! ""
lookin at 1 of those meters ----- I'm gunna try a local store tmro n see if they reasonable ….
SamuraiSam
Extraction Technician
Happy to help as always... so V4 fixes the intermittent flash issue, has a floating center pin so KISS carts and the Herc will sit flush, and has a touch activated button with Hammer functionality (sustained "on") built in.
It's a little bit harder to assemble/disassemble, and when you pull the upper and lower chamber apart, the thing comes apart a little differently... the floating center pin of the -74 makes everything a lot easier. The bottom 'insulator' is also different in that it has no floating pins. I'm having some issues with the 3rd or 4th button tap of a hit not working but I haven't tried adjusting much yet. The chamber lengths are a little different on the -71 to -74, with the 74 having the deepest top chamber and most protruding rod, then the -71, and finally the -74x has very short rod placement. Based just on the intrusion of the rod into the upper chamber, I think the X is really intended for 1 Ti coil, and the 74 could deal with the most coil...
Oh and most importantly the white rods resistance the 71 has a 1.5Ω rod and the SR-74 has a 2.3Ω resistance. So there is a lot more power into the -71 rod. At 8.4V it puts out 47 watts! The -74 rod will hit 30 watts at the same maximum voltage.
That's a crazy amount of power! Too much for me. I was hovering at like 6.7 or 6.8 earlier. Which is still more than the threshold of
When you freshly assemble the unit after sanitizing its recommended to do some dry burns before you put any coils in, to get any water out of the thing. When you do this and hold the button for a long time in a dark room you should be able to see the rod glowing orange or seriously red hot. If you have it surrounded by coils and oil you might not be able to see it get so hot.
UP tech sells a basic ohm tester for their carts so if you dont want to have to use an adapter I'd get that one. http://www.w9tech.com/ohm-and-voltage-tester/ If you want to get a DVOM that you could use for other things too, though you can use a regular meter to test carts by holding one lead to the threads and the other lead to the center posts. If you have banana clip leads just clip around the threads and use a single probe for the center
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Breathemetal
Well-Known Member
I want a persei....but i want to jump into something less expensive first...
Which one should i get?
Mainly use wax...shatter is rare as of late.
Would like to use the TI Kiss Globe with whatever i get
Which one should i get?
Mainly use wax...shatter is rare as of late.
Would like to use the TI Kiss Globe with whatever i get
ohdono
high more than not
do the regular ones not work with the sr71? what is the difference between the one on w9tech and dhgate
SamuraiSam
Extraction Technician
Are you unaware that UP Tech's vaporizers use a 601 thread which is different from the 510 thread that e-cigarettes use? Did you read the product description of any of the products you linked to which are all designed for testing e-cigarettes? They even say Ego/510 threaded in their descriptions. You would not be able to test any UP tech cartridges on any of those dhgate testers without buying an adapter.