Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
I've seen on videos people who push the Persei button only one time to start it. I can't !
Is there some techniques that I ignore (:D:)) to manage the Persei ?



Sorry for my ignorance but what's means "full melt" ?
The consistency is more like HASHISH.


In California where I live:
$25 Gram/FULL MELT
$40 Gram WAX (CRUMBLED)
$90 Gram WAX (SHATTER)
Wax is purer

Carts = CRUMBLED/CO2 OILS
HERCULES = SHATTER/CRUMBLE/FULL MELT (BEAST)

This is not manufactures recommendations it is just what I do!

HASH/WAX

NOTE: This is what I do for thicker concentrates!

I pulse for start up.

3 - 5 second hold down
release 3 seconds
4 - 6 second hold down
release 3 seconds
8 second hold down (maybe less) inhale at vapor production
Much less once your CONCENTRATE is conditioned.
(CAREFUL NOT TO BURN YOUR MATERIAL)

Cooling down hits keeps my devices in excellent shape
I inhale without the button engaged at the end of a session to cool things down.

Find your sweet spot and don't worry about what other people do!
 
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Silver420Surfer

Downward spiral
If you hold down the button on your Persei for 8 seconds shortly after a 5-6 second hold down(even after a 3 sec release),

You're gonna have a bad time. :nod:

@ataxian-- No offense but that sounds like it would just burn your oil. Or cause it to dump into the lower chamber.

Here's to living on the edge, bro!!:rockon:
 
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Silver420Surfer,

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
If you hold down the button on your Persei for 8 seconds shortly after a 5-6 second hold down(even after a 3 sec release),

You're gonna have a bad time. :nod:

@ataxian-- No offense but that sounds like it would just burn your oil. Or cause it to dump into the lower chamber.

Here's to living on the edge, bro!!:rockon:
@Silver420
I have a lot of devices and few failures.
I was talking about HASH/SHATTER vaping!
For CO2 OIL I hold down for like 2 or 3 seconds.
Taste, Flavor is what I'm all about.
PURE GOLD 1 second.

"Consistency" determines your hold down time.

I like CANNABIS more than VAPORIZERS.

Maybe that is the disconnect?

I need to shut up!
 
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Sleepin in CA

Higher than a Pterodactyl, you can call me Caveman
Accessory Maker


I really like the Nibbler XL and Persei holders. You should make a business. I'd buy those....depending on pricing of course......But I'd buy them. Especially if there was one that could hold the wand with Nibbler and herc attached!


Also it would seem we have a ship builder in our midst?
 
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Vapvap

Well-Known Member
I really like the Nibbler XL and Persei holders. You should make a business. I'd buy those....depending on pricing of course......But I'd buy them. Especially if there was me that could hold the wand with Nibbler and herc attached!


Also it would seem we have a ship builder in our midst?

Yes, my brother builds "arsenal" wood boat (must to be nut to do this, it is so small and complicated :lol:)
I don't know if he wants to make wood holders for sell, I will ask him. He makes me these 3 holders for a gift for his sister (me ! :D) (Persei and all from UP Tech is a gift too for me; I love my bros' :love:)

 

Sleepin in CA

Higher than a Pterodactyl, you can call me Caveman
Accessory Maker
Yes, my brother builds "arsenal" wood boat (must to be nut to do this, it is so small and complicated :lol:)
I don't know if he wants to make wood holders for sell, I will ask him. He makes me these 3 holders for a gift for his sister (me ! :D) (Persei and all from UP Tech is a gift too for me; I love my bros' :love:)

Best brothers ever!
 

Hedonismbot

Well-Known Member
did anyone else switch to a ti coil in their sr71?

i'm having some trouble getting very hard oils to flow that worked well with the old coil. It starts to get that burn taste (needs to be fed) but there is still plenty in there. with a skinny gap between the rod and the coil.

i plan to take the ti coil out and squash it flatter so that the inside of the hole makes contact with the rod.


I have noticed that the TI coils take over twice as long to warm up as the steel version. I thought it was a problem with my build at first.

The burnt tast is from oil very close to the rod, which gets scorched before the coils warm up enough for the hash to melt and run towards the center, where it is vaporized.

I tried to wedge the coil in, but it didn't make any difference. I just had to suck it up and amend my technique. Now I give the unit a good long warmup while taking only enough small puffs to keep that scorch from occurring until the chamber is hot and begins to create significant vapor.

Edit: I also notice that the TI coil sucks up a significant amount of oil before it is primed compared to the Stainless steel version.

These reports on the new Ti oil coils worry me.

My 2 SR-71s have been working fine for months now. I have put about 5-6 grams of wax through each Herc with no significant issue. I did not jump on the SR-74 release (and don't have an interest in any cart based on wire heaters). But a few days ago I disassembled and thoroughly cleaned both my SR-71s down to the bare metal. It was the first time I had opened them up since I started using them. They cleaned up real nice except for stains on the ceramic heating rod. I reassembled them and, of course, checked the resistance and airflow. Then I did a dry burn for a few seconds till the rods turned red. There was a little puff of smoke after which my heating rods were white again. :tup:

So I've been sitting here with 2 ready to go SR-71s and about 11 grams of top shelf wax (from 7 different strains) but I've resisted loading them up because I was waiting for the Ti oil coils to be released. But after reading the above reports I think I may be better off sticking with the (cut) stainless steel oil coils.

@Patrick Hughes, just to clarify are you talking about the Ti oil coil in the SR-74 or in the SR-71? Because if you are comparing a SS oil coil in a SR-71 to a Ti oil coil in an SR-74 remember that the SR-74 is only about 75% the power of an SR-71. If you're referring to the SR-74 then the lower power level may be responsible for the longer warm up time rather than the Ti oil coil. (edit: I assume you are operating at 7.4v, correct?)

Anyway, I'm not going to wait any longer for the Ti and I'll go ahead and use a SS oil coil in at least one of my SR-71s and start working off this pile of medicine that I accumulated. :clap:

Can someone answer a simple question for me? Does the SR-74 really have a screw on stainless steel top cap? Thanks in advance.

Hedo
 
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syrupy

Authorized Buyer
I think it does have the screw on. The issue, iirc, was with the sr-71, if the screen retaining nut wasn't adjusted properly, there wouldn't be a seal between the tank and top cap. It bugged me at first, but I can see the logic behind the change.

Just loaded the herc's 16th gram since purchase. Runs as well as day one, still using the same ss coil, with plenty to spare from the 2 original fullsize coils.
 

Patrick Hughes

Stoneman
These reports on the new Ti oil coils worry me.



@Patrick Hughes, just to clarify are you talking about the Ti oil coil in the SR-74 or in the SR-71? Because if you are comparing a SS oil coil in a SR-71 to a Ti oil coil in an SR-74 remember that the SR-74 is only about 75% the power of an SR-71. If you're referring to the SR-74 then the lower power level may be responsible for the longer warm up time rather than the Ti oil coil. (edit: I assume you are operating at 7.4v, correct?)

Anyway, I'm not going to wait any longer for the Ti and I'll go ahead and use a SS oil coil in at least one of my SR-71s and start working off this pile of medicine that I accumulated. :clap:

Can someone answer a simple question for me? Does the SR-74 really have a screw on stainless steel top cap? Thanks in advance.

Hedo

I am talking about the TI coil period. Like I said, I thought there was a problem with my 74 build so I swapped the TI coil around with the regular coil in my 71 and tried both. The TI takes longer no matter which cart, no matter which voltage, no matter which resistance. I have tried most if not all of the options Herc wise.

Also, the TI coils slide up the chamber much more than the ss version ( there is no little pull tab, and the ss one does not fit well). However, the 74 with ti coil does not seem to leak easily, even when the coil slides up, unlike my 71s with ss coils.

If you dont mind the ss, go with it is my advice. I am back and forth on the TI, although I am using them for now.

The 74 does have a screw on cap. I do not like it.
 

Caligula

Maximus
IIRC, titanium has a (much?) higher heat capacity than stainless steel. I'm no thermal physicist, but I would assume this means that (much?) more heat energy is going to be required to get Ti to the same temp as SS.

Now, I dont have the Ti coils yet (still waiting on shipping) however my plan of attack would be to pulse the power over a longer period of time to warm up the cart without overheating the oil. Basically, you want to use less power over a longer period of time in order to allow the coils to absorb enough heat energy to liquify your concentrate without burning the stuff close to the rod.

Maybe it would be even better for Core owners to lower the voltage when "priming" the Hercules, then bump it back up to 7.4v or whatever once things start to flow nicely?


Does that make any sense?
 

Sleepin in CA

Higher than a Pterodactyl, you can call me Caveman
Accessory Maker
IIRC, titanium has a (much?) higher heat capacity than stainless steel. I'm no thermal physicist, but I would assume this means that (much?) more heat energy is going to be required to get Ti to the same temp as SS.

Now, I dont have the Ti coils yet (still waiting on shipping) however my plan of attack would be to pulse the power over a longer period of time to warm up the cart without overheating the oil. Basically, you want to use less power over a longer period of time in order to allow the coils to absorb enough heat energy to liquify your concentrate without burning the stuff close to the rod.

Maybe it would be even better for Core owners to lower the voltage when "priming" the Hercules, then bump it back up to 7.4v or whatever once things start to flow nicely?


Does that make any sense?
Perfect sense imo. I was thinking the same, but as I cancelled my parts order to get my Okeanos early,I can not confirm.The whole point behind titanium use in dabbers is that it dissipates heat quickly taking it forever to transfer heat to your fingers. G uses it for flavor and health, but the heat dissipation property remains, so it would make sense that it takes longer to prime/warm the coils.
 

THC SCIENTIFIC

To Boldly Go Where No One Has Gone Before
Manufacturer
Perfect sense imo. I was thinking the same, but as I cancelled my parts order to get my Okeanos early,I can not confirm.The whole point behind titanium use in dabbers is that it dissipates heat quickly taking it forever to transfer heat to your fingers. G uses it for flavor and health, but the heat dissipation property remains, so it would make sense that it takes longer to prime/warm the coils.

It does take a bit longer to heat the coils yes but at the same time it improves taste and is a lot more healthy. A trade off we are willing to accept.
 

Sleepin in CA

Higher than a Pterodactyl, you can call me Caveman
Accessory Maker
It does take a bit longer to heat the coils yes but at the same time it improves taste and is a lot more healthy. A trade off we are willing to accept.
Me too, gonna order some one of these days. Kicking myself for cancelling them at the $6.99 buy in!
What can you do? I'll just have to lump them in with something else.
I did just order the AAF washer and sr74 rod......hmmmm
=)

@Capnkush file a ticket on w9tech.com in upper right. G no longer handles warranty stuff himself broseph.
 

Hedonismbot

Well-Known Member
The issue, iirc, was with the sr-71, if the screen retaining nut wasn't adjusted properly, there wouldn't be a seal between the tank and top cap.

That work around was used before there was a SS top cap. To correct for initial Herc air leaks G recommended a #10 washer be used and the mouthpiece screen retaining nut be backed out to hold the washer in place. Since the press fit SS top caps were introduced I don't recall anyone complaining about air leaks. On the two SR-71s I just cleaned there are no air leaks even tho there is no oil coating the inside.

I guess what I'm getting at is that air flow issue was fixed with the press on top cap which, for reloading, is easier to pull off than a screw on top cap especially when its "glued" in place by condensed oil.

I am talking about the TI coil period. Like I said, I thought there was a problem with my 74 build so I swapped the TI coil around with the regular coil in my 71 and tried both. The TI takes longer no matter which cart, no matter which voltage, no matter which resistance. I have tried most if not all of the options Herc wise.

Also, the TI coils slide up the chamber much more than the ss version ( there is no little pull tab, and the ss one does not fit well). However, the 74 with ti coil does not seem to leak easily, even when the coil slides up, unlike my 71s with ss coils.

If you dont mind the ss, go with it is my advice. I am back and forth on the TI, although I am using them for now.

The 74 does have a screw on cap. I do not like it.

Thank you, thank you for this! You have convinced me to stick with the SS oil coils in both my SR-71s for now.

The SR-74 is not a trade off I'm willing to accept, at least not right now. Maybe I'll wait for the SR-77!

Don't get me wrong. I :love:my SR-71s and consider it to be the best vape I've ever used. I just don't want to change things up unless I percieve a clear improvement.

Hedo
 

THC SCIENTIFIC

To Boldly Go Where No One Has Gone Before
Manufacturer
@THC SCIENTIFIC my ti kiss cart went out on me in less than 24 hours I barely got my whole set yesterday

Please submit a ticket and our CS team will get right on it.

@Hedonismbot

Although people on on FC did not voice concern over the top cap sticking in the mouth piece when taking it out, there where many people who had trouble putting the top cap on first then screwing in the mouth piece. They just didnt get the concept. The screw on mouth top cap was introduced so as to fix this issue.

Its more of a no matter what you do its gonna be a problem.

Also the other improvement with the Ti coils is you can now torch it clean. Something you could not do with the SS coils.
 
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