Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.

Sleepin in CA

Higher than a Pterodactyl, you can call me Caveman
Accessory Maker
Wait, so the core hums? Damn. Humming electronics are my biggest pet peeve.

Is it really noticeable? Like a fluorescent light?
 
Sleepin in CA,

THC SCIENTIFIC

To Boldly Go Where No One Has Gone Before
Manufacturer
Wait, so the core hums? Damn. Humming electronics are my biggest pet peeve.

Is it really noticeable? Like a fluorescent light?

You really cant hear it have to like listen for it, and it only does this when the buttons pressed, its not like florescent lights.
G, any updates on preorder parts shipping ETAs?

Everything is set for end of month but we shall never know until our shipping at our factory side ships it and soon as customs clears it.
 

Sleepin in CA

Higher than a Pterodactyl, you can call me Caveman
Accessory Maker
Oh good.....scared me for a second there. I plan on buying one in the VERY near future, but I would go crazy from a constant hum. I've sold numerous electronic devices on this type of issue, so I'm super happy its not constant.

A power button press hum I could totally live with.
 
Sleepin in CA,

TommydCat

Well-Known Member
Mine's got a happy little 60Hz buzz just plugged in and idle, but the room has to be absolutely silent or you would have to place your ear near it.

Pressing the button (on the top, not on The Core(tm)) changes the pitch to something more energetic, which is a bit louder, but still very, very quiet. Neither the action buttons on The Core(tm), nor the backlight on the display seem to effect.

I theorize it's a heavy duty power regulator doing some heavy duty power regulating. The sound is almost imperceptible, but it's definitely there even idle. I tend to not leave it plugged into the mains when not in use; I have not tried the DC option yet to check for noise, but it's really a non-issue for myself.

This beast seems designed to take whatever crappy AC you throw at it, but it may have to work harder to output that sweet, sweet, regulated DC to your vape.


*Various aforementioned trade names belong to their various respective owners.
 

exit

Well-Known Member
hmm could my problem be because there is like no contact material left on the ceramic rod?


RKJzHQe.jpg


also hahahaha ok i have learned my lesso n about keeping the rod clean.... honestly surprised it worked as well as it did caked up like this... wow

XVwzD25.jpg
 
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masaki

Well-Known Member
hmm could my problem be because there is like no contact material left on the ceramic rod?


RKJzHQe.jpg


XVwzD25.jpg

I hope it's not because the contacts on the end.. My white is fairly brand new and the contact on the end is almost gone..
 
masaki,

Bleed4Me

I LURK
hmm could my problem be because there is like no contact material left on the ceramic rod?


RKJzHQe.jpg


also hahahaha ok i have learned my lesso n about keeping the rod clean.... honestly surprised it worked as well as it did caked up like this... wow

XVwzD25.jpg

Did it heat up at all before you took it out? If it did, then the bad performance is prob due to the rod being dirty.

That's another good reason to push from the bottom instead of pulling the rod out of the cart. Doing so will eventually wear out the bottom collar if you use anything more than your hand.

Hope it comes back to life. Maybe a good time to place a pre order for the new 7.4?

Good Luck
 
Bleed4Me,
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OF

Well-Known Member
My white is fairly brand new and the contact on the end is almost gone..

This is spooky. I suspect poor electrical contact. This is a 40 Watt system, worst case half that much power (20 Watts) is available instantly at the location of the bad contact. That contact area can be tiny concentrating all the energy in a tiny spot, easily enough to burn the metal away.

This assumes it's normal contact material, not the Tungsten guys seem to think it is. Tungsten is really tough stuff, the SR71 would melt off it first I think? It's a 'refactory metal':
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Refractory_metals

Which means it's basically impossible to work with using normal techniques (like you'd use with copper and it's alloys (brass, bronze), steels, aluminum and so on. I'm not even sure how you'd make such a ring, perhaps evaporate it on (in a vacuum at above 6000 degrees C.....a mere 11,000F). This is done when a W (Tungsten) coating is needed.....not at all cheap.

Anyway, this probably also damaged the matching surface in the cart. This will probably lead to the next one failing. At this point you might be best advised to return it?

Good luck.

OF
 

vape4health

Well-Known Member
I chipped a contact with pliers trying to remove a bent rod that was stuck halfway in, it took some smashing to make it chip and then chipped like pressed powder metal like OF linked.
 

Patrick Hughes

Stoneman
I have one black rod that I wiped about half of the tungsten off of by dissassembling the unit incorrectly. I was not beginning by unscrewing the very bottom piece first, which leaves the center pin untorqued. Instead I was unscrewing the unit between the top and bottom sections of the ss body. This method left half of the center pin assembly on each half, but to do so the ceramic rod had to spin in the rod holder, hence the contact wearing out.

The rod still works just like new, but if the remaining tungsten is not making great contact it doesn't work well. The problem is resolved by tweaking the position of the ceramic rod: no big deal. I bought a new one anyway, just because, but I still also use the old one because it works.

I don't think its a warranty issue, at least I would not be comfortable claiming it. The rods, I believe, are sold as consumables. They do have a shorter warranty than the rest of the unit but I think wear and tear caused by the user should be the user's responsibility. New rods are $20, so not that huge a deal. I am more careful now, and have no problem with my other 3 rods.
 

exit

Well-Known Member
well i have a sr74 rod on the way anyway, whenever they ship :)

rod post torching...
73S1ryo.jpg


Instead I was unscrewing the unit between the top and bottom sections of the ss body. This method left half of the center pin assembly on each half, but to do so the ceramic rod had to spin in the rod holder, hence the contact wearing out.

i don't remember seeing these in the instuctions or ever mentioned before. is it really necessary? because as you can see my rod is not in ideal shape
 
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exit,
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Sleepin in CA

Higher than a Pterodactyl, you can call me Caveman
Accessory Maker
Wow. You guys must really abuse your rods. Hehe. In all seriousness if your breaking the coating....your doing it VERY wrong. Try being a bit more patient/gentle, or like @Patrick Hughes pointed out, you can buy new rods for a dub.
 
Sleepin in CA,
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Patrick Hughes

Stoneman
well i have a sr74 rod on the way anyway, whenever they ship :)

rod post torching...
73S1ryo.jpg




i don't remember seeing these in the instuctions or ever mentioned before. is it really necessary? because as you can see my rod is not in ideal shape

you still have enough to make contact. If it doesn't seem to be working, rotate the ceramic in the top collar a little and try again.
 

masaki

Well-Known Member
Can someone help figure out why I'm getting a metallic taste from my hercules? I cleaned the whole unit minus the coil. Is it my coil?


I plan switch out to a new coil today and see if it fixes the problem.. Can anyone recommend what size coil use to use with the white rod? I've been using about 30% coil
 
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