So are they working? You've got IMR 18350s, right? What happens when you try them (be sure to pulse)? My money's on batteries. If the core gets warm but not hot and the light goes dim quickly we're either not charging them or they won't discharge fast enough. Do you have more than one set to try, a single bad cell will stop it.
You could, I suppose, run one 123 cell and one IMR to test the 123 cells. Just be quick and careful not to over discharge anybody.
Bottom line is your report of more heat at 3.7 Volts, that says the battery pack is under that level under load to me.
OF
yea, the 3.7v batts from D9 are fine. i have used them repeatedly on both Persei and TV units w/ no problems. looks like it's not the battery brand and model, but maybe the battery itself?
speaking of checking for volts and amps and multimeters...
look what i found
droooool
Stay tuned for a massive surprise for Perseis owners. 2 weeks and counting.
On top of that, realized got an UNMARKED cart from PV. ordered a mix and match with 2.4/3/4/5. the missing one would be the 2.4. are the 2.4 carts just not labeled?????? or are we getting Bruno'ed. Tellin ya, machine oil taste is slowly transforming people into flesh eating infected. OF took the first hit, now onto Sinclue and Adobe. G is puppet master, hes got the only cure...Alpha and Hercules.
I admit, I laughed out loud at "Thank you Illuminati stranglehold!" in your previous.
It's a bit of an extreme position, mindless zombies with no will of our ow... G will take care of you, G will take care of you, G will take care of you, G will take care of you, G will take care of you, G will take care of you, G will take care of you, G will take care of you, G will take care of you, G will take care of you, G will take care of you,..
thanks for your confidence in me guys.
Now whats the issue?
Wrong batteries, they won't work as you've discovered. Too high an internal resistance for us. The only ones that will work are these exact RCR123As (and I'm told AW's version of the same):
http://www.amazon.com/Kits-RCR123A-LiFePO4-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B001EYHO9G/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1339814609&sr=1-2&keywords=rcr123a 3.0v 750mah lifepo4 rechargeable batteries
Note the same maker's 'better' RCR123A, the 900 mAh version, also doesn't work. That's no doubt the problem. They just can't provide enough power fast enough for us. This is why the IMR 3.7 Volt Battery works better, under load the six Volts you're starting with collapses to under 3.7.
As DubC says you can pulse the power, but IMO this is a move for experts otherwise as it adds a kind of dangerous variable to the mix. I tested some 4 Ohm carts at six Volts (using the above batteries) and I ended up having to pulse them even then.
But your problem for now is trying to use the wrong battery it seems.
Thanks for the info.
OF
So are they working? You've got IMR 18350s, right? What happens when you try them (be sure to pulse)? My money's on batteries. If the core gets warm but not hot and the light goes dim quickly we're either not charging them or they won't discharge fast enough. Do you have more than one set to try, a single bad cell will stop it.
You could, I suppose, run one 123 cell and one IMR to test the 123 cells. Just be quick and careful not to over discharge anybody.
Bottom line is your report of more heat at 3.7 Volts, that says the battery pack is under that level under load to me.
OF
Just wait. 2 weeks and counting? 28 days later....(watch the screen)
pun intended
No Issue. Didnt realize older 2.4 ohms were unmarked. Cleared up. But according to OF the Ultrafire cr123a's 3.0v may be a bit numb in the presence depart. Was having issues with 4 ohm at 6v with the two Ultrafire cr123a's from D9. According to this:
And Here:
No Multimeter at this time.
Do they fire any other cart?
They only get 'em warm. Not even as warm as running them at 3.7 Volts on the 18650.
They're not the original Tenergy nor the AW version of the same you specified a bit ago.....what gives?
TIA
OF
Fualty cell I'm guessing, only way to find out if wettest em out on a MM
I also suggested trying a known good 18350 with each in turn, should show one be OK if it's a random cell failure. No need to send them off and wait?
What's the story with these guys? There's now more than two approved types? TIA
OF
Not risking blow out mixing the two batteries at 4ohm? 6.7v at 4ohm doing 1.68amps pushing 11.2w
Never mix cells.
Your call, but for the record this is perfectly OK for testing as I've suggested. Trust me on this or check it out independently. The general rule you're citing has to do with normal service to protect the weaker cell from damage when it discharges and it's terminal voltage drops but current is still being forced through by the voltage from the other cell(s) in the battery.
This is the reason we need protected cells (or 'safe chemistry') to start with. Right?
OF
Never mix cells is a industry standard. Running a 3v cell with a 3.7v cell is not something i would try, or running a 18650 with a 18350. This is why we have a warning in the PErsei to pair up cells.
I know the 'industry standard' advice, I taught it enough.....
Like I said, trust me or check it out. You employ an electrical engineer, ask him if testing this way is OK. But please don't make out like I'm making dangerous or improper suggestions? Thanks.
OF
OF you can try that as many times as you like, your trained to do this type of tests, the average user is not.
I can not in any way recommend this test, what happens if it goes wrong? Who is responsible?
Just trying to be logical brotha. Dont get me wrong its just something you dont want people to try.
Yes, I'm trained in the area. Also licensed to teach that training in this state in fact. I appreciate your bias towards safety, in fact I think you'll have to look around a bit to find a guy who is more safety conscious in such things (trained there, too...). I understand you don't want to recommend the test; I do and have. I'm responsible for my suggestions, of course, and will defend them as you see.
As I said, your call but I can't agree that advice for service use of batteries applies to such special, brief tests. It is not true to say "Never mix cells" since that is advice for using them to their capacity and avoiding leaks (which is where the advice comes from, leaking flashlight batteries.....) not for tests. This is not "just something you dont want people to try". It is, in fact, just what I'd like the OP to try, but that's his call too. I'm suggesting a simple test that can save time and money getting this resolved. Not my time or cost or call. Just my suggestion, and again, for the record a legitimate one.
I understand if you want to stick with what you know and are comfortable with of course.
OF
Would test, but why not wait the couple hours and grab the multimeter in the morn. saves time and funeral bills for either end of flop chance. trust ya, but that using a mm you get near 100% proof.