sixstringsmash
Well-Known Member
Nomad #6 has landed! 3 more hours of work..... 3 more hours.... 3 moooooore and I get to touch my pretty nomad.
The Nomad From Morwood
- Thread starter Dan Morrison
- Start date
NickDlow
Log Hog
Referring to Dan’s pic what if you remove the bottom screen (which is on top of the herb when in the vape, correct?) and you can load right from the top. Or would you just inhale the herb?
Mine is one of the customs he’s still working on. So I’ll be able to play around soon.
Enjoy your Nomads first batchers.
Mine is one of the customs he’s still working on. So I’ll be able to play around soon.
Enjoy your Nomads first batchers.
tepictoton
Well-Known Member
An upside down 'basket screen' or 'herb pod' that fits the glass tube might solve this 'reloading' issue, if there ever was such a thing ...
sixstringsmash
Well-Known Member
Nomad #006 has been unboxed!
Can't quite use it until later tonight but I was playing around with it a bit. The one weird thing I did notice is that some of my 18650's(samsung 30q) are too tight for this vape and won't fit through the battery opening. My other batteries such as the sony vtc5a and vtc6 seem to be a little tight but still fit in with no problems, but the 30q battery is just way too thick and won't fit in the Nomad any which way shape or form.
Can't quite use it until later tonight but I was playing around with it a bit. The one weird thing I did notice is that some of my 18650's(samsung 30q) are too tight for this vape and won't fit through the battery opening. My other batteries such as the sony vtc5a and vtc6 seem to be a little tight but still fit in with no problems, but the 30q battery is just way too thick and won't fit in the Nomad any which way shape or form.
@sixstringsmash, hmm, that's weird about the 30Q. Official specs state 18.33mm +- 0.07mm. That's well within the range and should fit fine. The official LG HE4 spec sheet shows a diameter of the HE4 to be 18.3mm +0.2mm -0.3mm.
My HE4's all fit with room to spare. Perhaps you got a batch out of spec? It'll be interesting to hear from others who have the same batteries.
I wanted a nice fit for the battery hole, and thought I left enough margin for all batteries to fit, given their official specs..... but I hope I didn't get greedy with the tolerances...
My HE4's all fit with room to spare. Perhaps you got a batch out of spec? It'll be interesting to hear from others who have the same batteries.
I wanted a nice fit for the battery hole, and thought I left enough margin for all batteries to fit, given their official specs..... but I hope I didn't get greedy with the tolerances...
sixstringsmash
Well-Known Member
Yeah I'm just chalking it up to the battery wrap maybe being slightly thicker than the others. No worries as I have a bunch of 18650's lying around that do fit so I'm all good! Can't fire this thing up for another hour or so but man am I pumped to try it out!
Kob
Windowlicker
Or... Maybe that's what they are still doing.No testings up to now?
CL52613
Well-Known Member
While patiently waiting for my Nomad, second batch I believe #39, I am getting a little anxious regarding the loading of material and screen placements. Being extremely challenged in the hand dexterity department, I am freaking a bit in regard to having to remove both screens to clear the stem and than having to insert one screen, than load material, and insert the second screen. There is absolutely no way I could insert the screen into the stem with cut side facing inside unless I were to insert with dome side in and pushed through the stem to the opposite end. I could insert one screen in from the mouthpiece end, like I do for the Enano, but if I insert the heater side screen with the dome in, would not that create a greater distance between heater and material? And all things being equal, it seems the distance would make a higher temperature necessary to produce the same results if the distance and temperature were both reduced? Please bear in mind I am a bit anal, and like all my tools very clean and as close to pristine as possible. The thought of cutting a heater screen to size so I might replace the bottom domed screen is not in my wheelhouse. This screen would have to be removed frequently, which I see myself doing but can also see the integrity of the land for the stem getting damaged unintentionally. Using the domed screen on the bottom with cut end pointing toward heater would be a perfect opportunity to utilize the med - high heater module. Dan if you should be listening, I would definitely like to invest in the higher temp heater. I am pretty sure it will prove beneficial for my situation. Sorry for the interrupt and its length. Does anything I said make sense or am I fretting without cause?
mopey_zoo_lion
Active Member
Nomad 24 touched down yesterday. There's definitely a bit of a learning curve, so I've gone back and forth between light hits I barely even noticed to the biggest rips I've ever taken, which makes me super excited about the prospect of a water pipe adapter. It feels fantastic in the hand, has a lovely weight to it and looks gorgeous (I'll try to take a picture or two later today). The sleeve is what should be unsurprisingly robust considering how much Dan assured us this would be the case, but holding and seeing is believing, and... damn. These sleeves look fantastic and feel great while also appearing sturdy as hell. The one nit I have, keeping in mind I'm a very inexperienced user of these kinds of products is the loading mechanism. The screens are more than a bit fiddly, but I cannot for the life of me think of a better alternative that offers as much customization of experience as the screens do with their ability to be moved around within the stem. The screens are fiddly enough to, in my opinion, necessitate the use of a station for loading them. This is not something I'd be inclined to do out and about in any capacity, as the chance of making a mess and losing a screen seem rather high. That being said, once the stems are loaded swapping them out is easy enough, so packing a few in advance is a simple enough prospect.
I'm now on the hunt for a storage option that I think is appropriate. While the pelican cases seem like a wonderful option, they do lack an aesthetic charm which is why I m considering a Trusco T-150 with a pick and pluck insert, but I'd like to see other people's ideas before I pull the trigger. I have no issues with pocketing this puppy, but I'd like to have a good packing option to keep it and it's accessories together.
Those are all the thoughts I have thus far! I'll post as more thoughts occur and once I've taken pictures.
Thank you so much Dan, I can't begin to impart how satisfyingly well every piece of this thing fits and slides together. The tolerances are insane, and I find myself just absentmindedly pulling everything out and putting it back together, just to keep re-experiencing how amazingly well it all fits together.
I'm now on the hunt for a storage option that I think is appropriate. While the pelican cases seem like a wonderful option, they do lack an aesthetic charm which is why I m considering a Trusco T-150 with a pick and pluck insert, but I'd like to see other people's ideas before I pull the trigger. I have no issues with pocketing this puppy, but I'd like to have a good packing option to keep it and it's accessories together.
Those are all the thoughts I have thus far! I'll post as more thoughts occur and once I've taken pictures.
Thank you so much Dan, I can't begin to impart how satisfyingly well every piece of this thing fits and slides together. The tolerances are insane, and I find myself just absentmindedly pulling everything out and putting it back together, just to keep re-experiencing how amazingly well it all fits together.
Mr. Me2
Well-Known Member
You gave me an idea for a more user friendly stem but I have no idea if it’s possible. And I won’t be at all surprised if others have already been there done that.
Anyway, I just started a thread in Ask FC. Here’s a link: http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/can-glass-be-“threaded”.29197/
All the new Nomad users may already find Dan’s stems user friendly.
Let’s see what happens..
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jardri
Vapor Dreams
Maybe you could put a double mesh screen between the heater and the stem? This would act as difussor and probably wont need to be domed because of the extra turbulence. This way loading the traditional way should be equally effective. I dont have a Nomad I´m just wondering but it could work the same way the Milaana does.
My recommended screen sandwich is really just a starting point. It's what I've come to like... but there are many ways to load this straight stem.
I've been re-visiting the method of putting a screen down into the body, instead of using a top screen in the glass stem. And I must say that I like it a lot. So if you have issues with removing the top screen for reloding, I would definitely recommend this method.
@jardri , Yep, This is completely do-able, There is a step down inside the body that is designed to accomate a flat screen if desired.
If people chime in that this is a better way to go, I'll look into making these screens and I'll send em out to everyone in envolopes.
The 'diffuser' effect of the screen is negligeable, I probably should not have mentioned it, heh. So don't get too stuck on it.
@mopey_zoo_lion , Thanks for your report! If this i your first time using an unregulated convection device, there will be a little getting used to it. But that'll fade quickly I'm sure.
If at any time you experience low vapor production, it's either, drawing air too fast, not pressing the fire button fully in, or very rarely... a dirty connection somewhere. I talk about dirty connections, but quite honestly I clean my button connection point and heater module connection point about once a year, so it's really nothing to obsess over.
With the medium-low module, I really designed this for slooow looong draws, to kreep up in temp and eek out every bit of flavor. Once you dial it in, you can get big vapor production at a very slow draw speed, which equals less hot air flowing down your throat, and less irritation, so I sometimes prefer this method.
This module is best for single short sessions, where you keep the module hot through the entire session.
Recently I've really been liking the high temp module though... there is a time for both.
I've been re-visiting the method of putting a screen down into the body, instead of using a top screen in the glass stem. And I must say that I like it a lot. So if you have issues with removing the top screen for reloding, I would definitely recommend this method.
@jardri , Yep, This is completely do-able, There is a step down inside the body that is designed to accomate a flat screen if desired.
If people chime in that this is a better way to go, I'll look into making these screens and I'll send em out to everyone in envolopes.
The 'diffuser' effect of the screen is negligeable, I probably should not have mentioned it, heh. So don't get too stuck on it.
@mopey_zoo_lion , Thanks for your report! If this i your first time using an unregulated convection device, there will be a little getting used to it. But that'll fade quickly I'm sure.
If at any time you experience low vapor production, it's either, drawing air too fast, not pressing the fire button fully in, or very rarely... a dirty connection somewhere. I talk about dirty connections, but quite honestly I clean my button connection point and heater module connection point about once a year, so it's really nothing to obsess over.
With the medium-low module, I really designed this for slooow looong draws, to kreep up in temp and eek out every bit of flavor. Once you dial it in, you can get big vapor production at a very slow draw speed, which equals less hot air flowing down your throat, and less irritation, so I sometimes prefer this method.
This module is best for single short sessions, where you keep the module hot through the entire session.
Recently I've really been liking the high temp module though... there is a time for both.
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GetLeft
Well-Known Member
I’m guessing that this is what I’ll end up doing and don’t imagine I’ll have to do it more than once. The Mi has a screen sitting just above the heater and it doesn’t require cleaning. Nothing but hot air passes through it so nothing to foul it up. Just keeps the bits of loose herb from hitting the heater if they happen to fall out of the stem. Maybe you could ask Dan to place it in there for you before he ships it to you.
@CL52613 , I wouldn't worry. By the time the next batch goes out, the loading system will be tweaked to make it as easy as possible for everyone. I already have a few ideas I'll be testing out.
Either way, I already had it in mind that I would be making a custom stem loading solution for you, since we are collaborating on a special Nomad.
Either way, I already had it in mind that I would be making a custom stem loading solution for you, since we are collaborating on a special Nomad.
Fat Freddy
FUCK CANCER TOO !
Given the current pathway for the stem and the internal structure, I see no way of confidently securing a screen in order to protect the heater from "fallout". I see no significant "stepdown" that would easily accommodate that; as is, it's just too fiddly!
I've not used my Nomad yet with herb, for that reason, the fiddliness. When I consider the journey of this vape and the remarkable design and craftsmanship that has created it, and then I review the herb loading system in contrast, it feels to me like the runner fell and lost the marathon in the last 100 yards!
Like many members here and at other vaping forums, I vape primarily for medicinal benefits, i.e., for the neuropathy in my feet and hands, a disability that makes it almost impossible to complete tasks requiring fine motor control/dexterity.
As is, this one is too difficult for me to use.
Disappointing to be sure!
.
Diggy Smalls
Notorious
Stunning. Thanks for sharing the pics y'all! I think I would go with artists choice for wrapping myself... What a great eye for aesthetics!
It does seem like a screen permanently placed above the heater would be the way to go. I have other Vapes that function similarly and they all benefit from a screen there. One can still double screen their stem if that is their preferred way.
It does seem like a screen permanently placed above the heater would be the way to go. I have other Vapes that function similarly and they all benefit from a screen there. One can still double screen their stem if that is their preferred way.
delloy
Well-Known Member
@Fat Freddy
Then perhaps you had better take a bit of you own advice and maybe get something made.
Then perhaps you had better take a bit of you own advice and maybe get something made.
Well, perhaps then this vaporizer isn't for you? Many members here at FC (including myself) have various medical conditions that limit our daily activities, causing us to move on to the "next best"; don't like it much but sadly such are our conditions.
Perhaps you might email Dan and inquire as to the possibility of customization of a unit and the additional time and cost it would require?
Good luck!
.
sixstringsmash
Well-Known Member
I had a set of spare Mighty screens that seem to be the perfect size to drop down into the air path right above the heater. It just kind of dropped and fell in and has been staying in there pretty good for me so far. As of now with that screen in there I'm using it just like I would use my Milaana or MVT with just the one screen at the bottom of the stem for loading. I'm getting pretty good results so far, but don't want to go into too much detail until I use it a bit more.
These are the screens I'm using. they fit perfectly without the need to cut or anything.
https://www.storz-bickel.com/us/en/store/my/mighty-screen-set.html
@Fat Freddy , I'm sorry you feel that way. I really tried to produce something to the best of my abilities and knowledge. But I suppose that my experience will be different than yours. I took for granted my dexterity, and didn't realize that this stem loading system would be too difficult for you to use. It's something that I've always just done without even thinking about it... so this comes as a surprise to me.
I want to assure you that I will not be satisfied until you are satisfied. Whether that means sending you custom stems, or screens, or the refund of your Nomad, I would be happy to go down any of those routes. Just let me know what I can do.
For now, I have compiled a revised stem loading tutorial that I hope will make it as easy as possible, so that hopefully you can start using your Nomad right away.
I would encourage everyone to also follow this tutorial, as I'll be updating the Quick Start Guide to include this information.
UPDATED STEM LOADING TUTORIAL
First, place the bottom screen with the cut end facing the mouth end of the stem. Opposite to how I first suggested. I think this will be better.
Take the top screen, place it on a flat textured surface, piece of paper on the table, book, wood..
With a pencil or similar item, push down on the top of the screen to make a small impression
It should look something like this, don't worry too much about shape, it barely matters.
Now you can easily pop the screen in, with the cut ends facing out. This is much easier as I have found out. And it's the way I'll be doing it myself from now on.
If you don't want to handle the screen in your fingers, just place the screen on the table, and press down onto it with the stem to push the screen into the stem.
Loaded, your chamber should look like this, with cut ends facing outwards now, opposite to what I originally suggested in my Quick Start Guide.
Now it's time to unload. And here is one of the reasons why I personally love the screen sandwich loading system. With a pencil or pen, you can push out the top screen and your spent material all at once. Don't push out the bottom screen.
I like to keep my screens clean, so with this method I get full access to the bottom screen, so I can quickly brush it off with my finger. I like this way over blowing out my spent material everywhere, or using a pick and brush to clean the chamber. This is part of the reasoning behind this system.
@Fat Freddy, feel free to give this a try, and I hope that it helps you get started. From there, we can work together to cater your Nomad to your abilities and come up with something that you're happy about.
I want to assure you that I will not be satisfied until you are satisfied. Whether that means sending you custom stems, or screens, or the refund of your Nomad, I would be happy to go down any of those routes. Just let me know what I can do.
For now, I have compiled a revised stem loading tutorial that I hope will make it as easy as possible, so that hopefully you can start using your Nomad right away.
I would encourage everyone to also follow this tutorial, as I'll be updating the Quick Start Guide to include this information.
UPDATED STEM LOADING TUTORIAL
First, place the bottom screen with the cut end facing the mouth end of the stem. Opposite to how I first suggested. I think this will be better.
Take the top screen, place it on a flat textured surface, piece of paper on the table, book, wood..
With a pencil or similar item, push down on the top of the screen to make a small impression
It should look something like this, don't worry too much about shape, it barely matters.
Now you can easily pop the screen in, with the cut ends facing out. This is much easier as I have found out. And it's the way I'll be doing it myself from now on.
If you don't want to handle the screen in your fingers, just place the screen on the table, and press down onto it with the stem to push the screen into the stem.
Loaded, your chamber should look like this, with cut ends facing outwards now, opposite to what I originally suggested in my Quick Start Guide.
Now it's time to unload. And here is one of the reasons why I personally love the screen sandwich loading system. With a pencil or pen, you can push out the top screen and your spent material all at once. Don't push out the bottom screen.
I like to keep my screens clean, so with this method I get full access to the bottom screen, so I can quickly brush it off with my finger. I like this way over blowing out my spent material everywhere, or using a pick and brush to clean the chamber. This is part of the reasoning behind this system.
@Fat Freddy, feel free to give this a try, and I hope that it helps you get started. From there, we can work together to cater your Nomad to your abilities and come up with something that you're happy about.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
@Dan Morrison I may like to have the flat heater screen installed already, I am sure I have a spare screen here that will probably fit perfectly as above, but if you have the right solution that will stay put maybe that is the best idea. Having that screen and only using one screen in the stem is my preferred method as well, though I do plan to try the double screen and stem regardless even with the heater screen... Thank you for that little tutorial above it is perfect. Anyway just a thought since you are still finishing mine up.
I also think people might have had insanely high expectations for this. They get so distracted by the beautiful aesthetics that they forget basic a manual unregulated vape can be especially when it comes to loading and unloading... Just take time to play around with it and find out what works best for you is my advice. Don't anybody rush to test and provide feedback here, no pressure, just go at your own pace
I also think people might have had insanely high expectations for this. They get so distracted by the beautiful aesthetics that they forget basic a manual unregulated vape can be especially when it comes to loading and unloading... Just take time to play around with it and find out what works best for you is my advice. Don't anybody rush to test and provide feedback here, no pressure, just go at your own pace
delloy
Well-Known Member
@Dan Morrison I now want a custom blackwood screen loading/unloading stick with ringed screen depth indicators and lichen button inlay to the end