The Nomad From Morwood

[hoyo77]

@Dan Morrison lolololololol....damn. Upon my 4th look at my Nomad, I just noticed the yin/yang symbol. Duuuuuuuuuude, fucking impressive!!

 

[Dan Morrison]

@Dan Morrison lolololololol....damn. Upon my 4th look at my Nomad, I just noticed the yin/yang symbol. Duuuuuuuuuude, fucking impressive!!

HAHA! dude that's so funny.

 

[hoyo77]

HAHA! dude that's so funny.

In my defense i was vaping grand daddy purple mixed with moon rock and sipping bourbon all day today!!

 

[Nomad #111]

Nomad #111 has landed. Wow. More will follow

 

[FlyingLow]

Dude... now I am googling tea pets!

 

[hazeyp000]

I've been developing an updated version of my usage tutorial guide... as I think my original one could be simplified quite a bit. And I'm just wondering if anyone out there has any ideas about what they would like to see included.

Specifically, I'm trying to come up with a way to give people a place to start that will give guaranteed success. This is especially true for people who don't have any experience with unregulated convection.

I think that following a timed sequence, while counting in your head, is a pretty good way to standardize things. For example. With a fresh battery and the standard (low) heater my inhale sequence goes like this:

Button ON...1...2...3...4...5..Start Inhale..6...7...8...9...10...11...12...13...14...Button OFF...15...16...17...18...Stop Inhaling............exhale.

So long as I follow this sequence, I get very consistent results. And if, for example, a user were to follow these steps and they get little or no vapor, I know that likely the issue is draw speed is too fast. And if they report scorching the material, I know they're draw speed is too slow.

This can also be used for the high heater, but with modified timing.

I find that for subsequent draws, the above formula can be modified to add a couple seconds to either the pre-heat time or the draw length time to achieve consistent results on the second, third, fourth...etc.. draw.

The idea here is to eliminate any chaotic variables that I can, so that first time users can quickly dial their inhale speed. Once they get a sense of what it's suppose to feel like, it's easy to branch out from there and augment your technique to achieve different results.

Thoughts?

__________________________


In other news, I'm ordering a ton of textile samples for the final Nomad II case prototype. The design is pretty much finished, but now I am finding that perfect fabric to use. I've got on order a bunch of nice organic textiles.. and raw natural dye ingredients. Nothing is finalized yet, but I'm hoping to offer a handful of colours all hand dyed in house from plant sources. The current front runners for the colours are; Mustards/yellows, Greens, indigo, greys, natural/cream, rust. The indigo and rust colours will come from the two Japanese dye techniques of using real indigo dye vats, and kakishibu (persimmon tannin).

These cases will be slightly padded, but not too much. Still able to fit into a pocket, but just enough protection to make you feel good about tossing it into a backpack.

The design takes a lot of inspiration from the Japanese shifuku, which is a fabric case used to store various tea ware. Here is a poetic article explaining the philosophy behind the shifuku, White Dew

View attachment 835

The fabric case on the left is what we're lookin' at.

I also like the idea of using a braided cord in some way for the closure... it's reliable, long lasting, replaceable, and won't scratch anything. The other cool thing is that this cord can be adorned by beads or accessories. Glass beads from artists in the cannabis community could be neat, tiny wood storage containers...

In the tea world, there are little objects called tea pets. Here is a tea pet...

View attachment 843

Tea pets are little fun creatures to put on your tea table while drinking tea.

I was imagining something like little carved wooden creatures that could be strung onto the case cord. Vape pets. They'd be like little guardians bringing good vibes to your sesh, hah.

I've been developing an updated version of my usage tutorial guide... as I think my original one could be simplified quite a bit. And I'm just wondering if anyone out there has any ideas about what they would like to see included.

Specifically, I'm trying to come up with a way to give people a place to start that will give guaranteed success. This is especially true for people who don't have any experience with unregulated convection.

I think that following a timed sequence, while counting in your head, is a pretty good way to standardize things. For example. With a fresh battery and the standard (low) heater my inhale sequence goes like this:

Button ON...1...2...3...4...5..Start Inhale..6...7...8...9...10...11...12...13...14...Button OFF...15...16...17...18...Stop Inhaling............exhale.

So long as I follow this sequence, I get very consistent results. And if, for example, a user were to follow these steps and they get little or no vapor, I know that likely the issue is draw speed is too fast. And if they report scorching the material, I know they're draw speed is too slow.

This can also be used for the high heater, but with modified timing.

I find that for subsequent draws, the above formula can be modified to add a couple seconds to either the pre-heat time or the draw length time to achieve consistent results on the second, third, fourth...etc.. draw.

The idea here is to eliminate any chaotic variables that I can, so that first time users can quickly dial their inhale speed. Once they get a sense of what it's suppose to feel like, it's easy to branch out from there and augment your technique to achieve different results.

Thoughts?

__________________________


In other news, I'm ordering a ton of textile samples for the final Nomad II case prototype. The design is pretty much finished, but now I am finding that perfect fabric to use. I've got on order a bunch of nice organic textiles.. and raw natural dye ingredients. Nothing is finalized yet, but I'm hoping to offer a handful of colours all hand dyed in house from plant sources. The current front runners for the colours are; Mustards/yellows, Greens, indigo, greys, natural/cream, rust. The indigo and rust colours will come from the two Japanese dye techniques of using real indigo dye vats, and kakishibu (persimmon tannin).

These cases will be slightly padded, but not too much. Still able to fit into a pocket, but just enough protection to make you feel good about tossing it into a backpack.

The design takes a lot of inspiration from the Japanese shifuku, which is a fabric case used to store various tea ware. Here is a poetic article explaining the philosophy behind the shifuku, White Dew

View attachment 835

The fabric case on the left is what we're lookin' at.

I also like the idea of using a braided cord in some way for the closure... it's reliable, long lasting, replaceable, and won't scratch anything. The other cool thing is that this cord can be adorned by beads or accessories. Glass beads from artists in the cannabis community could be neat, tiny wood storage containers...

In the tea world, there are little objects called tea pets. Here is a tea pet...

View attachment 843

Tea pets are little fun creatures to put on your tea table while drinking tea.

I was imagining something like little carved wooden creatures that could be strung onto the case cord. Vape pets. They'd be like little guardians bringing good vibes to your sesh, hah.

very cool. That tea pet is nice. Here’s my setup. Can’t wait for my name to come up on the waitlist

very cool. That tea pet is nice. Here’s my setup. Can’t wait for my name to come up on the waitlist

Whoops my pet is cut off in that photo. Better one

 

[Fullmeltsandbox88]

Super stoked just got on the list . San Francisco skyline with some floating peyotes and a sweet color wave ripple/fade!

 

[Vaporware]

@

Yes that one is mine! @Dan Morrison took what i wanted and turned it into a beauty. He took everything i wanted and turned it into a masterpiece on that sleeve design!! My Morrison collectionis growing, it will look nice next to my Okin and i cannot wait till its my turn on the NOMADII

Yours is one of my favorites for sure! Makes me even more anxious to see the upcoming sketches for mine.

I love the kinda’ cyberpunk one above too; it made me think of Serial Experiments Lain even before someone mentioned it in the Instagram comments. Really, all of the hand painted sleeves are amazing!

The cases also look like a good solution @Dan Morrison - pets, storage containers, etc. would be very nice additions too and I’d be onboard for all of it, but most importantly it would be great just to keep our Nomads relatively safe without having to resort to big bulky non-pocketable cases.

 

[Dan Morrison]

@hazeyp000 Cool tea pet! That's a nice setup you've got there.

Here's a new sleeve fresh off of the painting desk. This one is done in the Studio Ghibli art style, borrowing scenes from one of my favourite movies, Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind...

 

[Mr. Me2]

@hazeyp000 Cool tea pet! That's a nice setup you've got there.

Here's a new sleeve fresh off of the painting desk. This one is done in the Studio Ghibli art style, borrowing scenes from one of my favourite movies, Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind...

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O...M...G

 

[tubasco]

@hazeyp000 Cool tea pet! That's a nice setup you've got there.

Here's a new sleeve fresh off of the painting desk. This one is done in the Studio Ghibli art style, borrowing scenes from one of my favourite movies, Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind...

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this is simply stunning @Dan Morrison

 

[GetLeft]

borrowing scenes from one of my favourite movies, Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind

Thanks for the lead I know of Studio Ghibli and a couple of their films, but this nomad cover has inspired me to get up to speed. I'll probably start with Spirited Away tonight.

 

[Taz German]

Gosh what a beauty!
Ghibli sure makes some of the best Animes.
Very touching and beautiful stories!

 

[GI]

Beautiful pieces....how much last a battery charge ?

 

[GetLeft]

Considering all cells are not created equal, pound for pound a cell lasts pretty much the same with the Nomad as it does with any on-demand portable convection device. Been a while since I've used mine but when I was using it almost exclusively it wasn't because the cells lasted long. It was because it was convenient and effective (not to add beautiful cause everyone knows what beauts these all are).

 

[Dan Morrison]

Here's the latest wood stem prototype.

This wood stem is made from lightly spalted apple wood. I'm not too sure what woods I'll be able to use quite yet, but I'm working through that now.

The chamber is made from briar burl, very durable, high heat resistance, very neutral taste. A tiny groove is cut into the bottom face of the chamber, where a screen has been press fit. This tiny groove has a little lip that prevents the screen from popping out.

The chamber has a nice smooth fit in the stem, not too tight, not too loose. One of the main hurdles of this design is using woods that are matched well, and where both are perfectly stable so that they'll always have that perfect fit.

I use an in-body screen inside the Nomad, so that when the stem is inserted it seals the chamber against that screen. No more fiddling with screens in the stem, or needing to put a dome screen on top of your loaded chamber.

The one obvious difference between this design and my stock glass stem is that there is no way to adjust the depth of the chamber. I used to feel like this was an important aspect of the design to keep... but over time I've come to realize that I pretty much never adjust the chamber size... but rather keep it at an optimal depth for best performance. I've tried to figure out what the optimal chamber size is, and this is that size here... I think the user friendliness of this design is worth the loss of that feature.

fyi, this design is not compatible with glass stems, because glass is not produced in the tolerance range needed to make these snug fitting chambers.

 

[The Stranger]

The Nomad II is all coming together! Fantastic addition and much more aesthetically pleasing than a glass air-path, in my opinion.

Great work as always.

 

[SonicBacon]

I'm not sure I understand this right but it sure looks nice. Do you pack the stem and use this like a cap to contain the load? or does this little guy get loaded like a dosing capsule?

 

[Dan Morrison]

I'm not sure I understand this right but it sure looks nice. Do you pack the stem and use this like a cap to contain the load? or does this little guy get loaded like a dosing capsule?

You pack the cap like a capsule. I tamp the load so it doesnt fall out, and find no need to stir, so it requires no screen to cap the chamber. When the stem is inserted, a screen inside the body seals the chamber so no bits fall out and onto the heater.

 

[SonicBacon]

You pack the cap like a capsule. I tamp the load so it doesnt fall out, and find no need to stir, so it requires no screen to cap the chamber. When the stem is inserted, a screen inside the body seals the chamber so no bits fall out and onto the heater.

Thanks for clearing that up for me, this is exactly how I like to use stems on other devices.

 

[jbm]

My forthcoming Nomad II (#42), in batch 2. This is a mockup Dan made. Roasted curly maple, pink ivory collar and plate, lignum vitae sidepulls, opal button.

 

[Mr. Me2]

I am so excited for the Nomad II’s!

 

[The Stranger]

I am so excited for the Nomad II’s!

Fuck yeah, me too!

 

[Ramahs]

Here's the latest wood stem prototype.

This wood stem is made from lightly spalted apple wood. I'm not too sure what woods I'll be able to use quite yet, but I'm working through that now.

The chamber is made from briar burl, very durable, high heat resistance, very neutral taste. A tiny groove is cut into the bottom face of the chamber, where a screen has been press fit. This tiny groove has a little lip that prevents the screen from popping out.

The chamber has a nice smooth fit in the stem, not too tight, not too loose. One of the main hurdles of this design is using woods that are matched well, and where both are perfectly stable so that they'll always have that perfect fit.

I use an in-body screen inside the Nomad, so that when the stem is inserted it seals the chamber against that screen. No more fiddling with screens in the stem, or needing to put a dome screen on top of your loaded chamber.

The one obvious difference between this design and my stock glass stem is that there is no way to adjust the depth of the chamber. I used to feel like this was an important aspect of the design to keep... but over time I've come to realize that I pretty much never adjust the chamber size... but rather keep it at an optimal depth for best performance. I've tried to figure out what the optimal chamber size is, and this is that size here... I think the user friendliness of this design is worth the loss of that feature.

fyi, this design is not compatible with glass stems, because glass is not produced in the tolerance range needed to make these snug fitting chambers.

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Yup...that gives me wood

 

[Shit Snacks]

Obviously all the work in here is insanely gorgeous, but damnit I want some vape pets now! I don't know why I'm so into the idea of cluttering my coffee table (and life) further with VPAS