The Nomad From Morwood

Kalessin

Well-Known Member
@KeroZen , Right you are. But the Kraft paper laminate should have a fairly high temperature resistance, not as durable as steel of course. And steel would last indefinitely, while kraft paper would have a lifespan.. though a long one.

@Kalessin , I agree!

It might come down to the fact that making those kraft paper laminates takes a long time. It's all manual labor that can't be done with a jig.

And you could always paint the steel... hmm.
Would a steel body take the milk paint like the laminate? I really like the way those mushrooms on the last mock up look, though mushrooms aren't exactly what I'd prefer on a unit of my own...maybe a stylized painting of a breeze or something... like, just a few simplistic lines that give the impression of air moving, don't know exactly how to describe what I mean..
 
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KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
@Dan Morrison: I was thinking more in terms of heat-sinking and radiation. A steel shell could be used to remove excessive heat from the system but at the same time it could also rob too much heat if you don't insulate it, dual edged sword.

But say if your design includes some power electronics (ex: MOSFETs, diodes etc) it might be necessary to provide adequate cooling. Now having the shell get hot is unavoidable in practice, all portables vapes whatever the material will get warm to hot at the end of good session.

Anyway I have no idea what circuit you will settle on, but I was more thinking in these terms. I'm sure your material will handle the temperature fine.
 

Dan Morrison

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
@Kalessin , You can add an additive to Milk Paint to make it better adhere to non-porous surfaces like steel, but the adhesion would most likely be less good than it is to kraft paper, to which it is extremely good! Probably of minimal concern however, a worn paint surface would look sweet!

@KeroZen , Ah yes, I see. I was thinking of going with flexible aerogel insulation barrier between the heating chamber and outside shell. And the ID of the heating chamber will be either ceramic or mica tube.

This design will contain no electronics, only a hard connection between battery, fire button, and heater.

Anyhow, leaning towards steel now.
 

Kalessin

Well-Known Member
@Kalessin , You can add an additive to Milk Paint to make it better adhere to non-porous surfaces like steel, but the adhesion would most likely be less good than it is to kraft paper, to which it is extremely good! Probably of minimal concern however, a worn paint surface would look sweet!

@KeroZen , Ah yes, I see. I was thinking of going with flexible aerogel insulation barrier between the heating chamber and outside shell. And the ID of the heating chamber will be either ceramic or mica tube.

This design will contain no electronics, only a hard connection between battery, fire button, and heater.

Anyhow, leaning towards steel now.
For those who want it would you be willing to do custom paintings on them, even if you go with the steel? I'd really love a custom bit of your artwork on your work of art haha would be willing to pay a bit extra if necessary, of course

Edit: and I'm not talking, like, a intricate painting or anything, just a little bit of decorative accent
 
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RastaBuddhaTao

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
There isn't one and mica has been used in heating elements for decades, just saying.

Hopefully Dan hasn't forgotten about us!

No need to infringe on RBTs pending patent as I have already offered @Dan Morrison full access to my heater tech if he wanted... And true, the mica is not called out specifically but rather a generic insulator.... @nondarb how did you get a copy lol.

Great ideas brewing here! Definitely gives me food for thought for what's beyond Zion... Keep the creative juices flowing and give me a call if you want to bounce any ideas off me @Dan Morrison.
 

phattpiggie

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Had a thought on the kraft paper vs steel, how about something a bit more in keeping than steel?
kPAdrRr.jpg


Birch bark perhaps.
Having given it a cursory glance the same laminate process could be used and would be stronger than the paper and add a warmth and tactility to the outer shell that steel doesn't offer.
 

Dan Morrison

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
@RastaBuddhaTao , nice to see you in the thread! Looking forward to what's coming post Zion!

@phattpiggie , That's a neat idea, but perhaps a bit too organic looking for the space retro-future vibe I want to achieve here. Either way, birch bark is a beautiful material. I use it for knife sheaths and small containers. One downside is that it's best to have a stitched joint. Straight seams that are glued tend to delaminate, since the glue is really only sticking to one outside layer.

It's also rather tough (in my area) to harvest good thick bark in the quantities I would need.

One thing I would like to do with it is make herb containers.. with a nice fitted wood lid they are watertight.
 

Snappo

Caveat Emptor - "A Billion People Can Be Wrong!"
Accessory Maker
Speaking of "regulation"... the word "vape" as in Vaporizer will soon bring wide reaching scrutiny the world over given the new FDA rules soon to take effect, as well as across the borders and sea with the new Granny State regs. Just another reason to love my Okin - it doesn't give anything away by way of it's name, although we all know its true calling.
 

Kalessin

Well-Known Member
Speaking of "regulation"... the word "vape" as in Vaporizer will soon bring wide reaching scrutiny the world over given the new FDA rules soon to take effect, as well as across the borders and sea with the new Granny State regs. Just another reason to love my Okin - it doesn't give anything away by way of it's name, although we all know its true calling.
I thought those new regulations were specifically geared toward nicotine vaporizers? Correct me if I'm wrong, please, I haven't done any amount of research, just what I read in passing
 

Snappo

Caveat Emptor - "A Billion People Can Be Wrong!"
Accessory Maker
I thought those new regulations were specifically geared toward nicotine vaporizers? Correct me if I'm wrong, please, I haven't done any amount of research, just what I read in passing
"Vapor delivery" I suspect will encompass all such devices... just trying to think ahead of the curve and what might be around the corner. In these trying times, a name can make or break.
 

°k

The sound of vapor
What about steel for ruggedness with painted kraft paper over it for cool design + some insulation? Possibly the paper part would be a sleeve that could be replaced when it's time to or changed for a different one to match your socks when you are in a fancy mood.
 

Dan Morrison

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
What about steel for ruggedness with painted kraft paper over it for cool design + some insulation? Possibly the paper part would be a sleeve that could be replaced when it's time to or changed for a different one to match your socks when you are in a fancy mood.

Having both means twice the thickness for the shell...which means an extra few millimeters to the width.. can't spare it!

I believe I will go with a steel shell, which could always be painted of course. I really love the look of antique tins..with their classic graphics showing through the wear and rust..mmm. So maybe I could incorporate some of that vibe into it.
 

NickDlow

Log Hog
Having both means twice the thickness for the shell...which means an extra few millimeters to the width.. can't spare it!

I believe I will go with a steel shell, which could always be painted of course. I really love the look of antique tins..with their classic graphics showing through the wear and rust..mmm. So maybe I could incorporate some of that vibe into it.

Yes!! Some nice patina!!!
 

Dan Morrison

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Some new concept models.

ihbzGbp.jpg


I made this out of wood/paper, then made some adjustments in Photoshop. I feel like the design is almost fully tweaked at this point.

I built this around available rectangular steel stock for the main body. The wood choices will probably be walnut, beech, teak, rosewood...etc.. all tight grain stable woods.

The steel will be available with various high quality surface treatments, paint, DLC coating (perhaps $$$), blue/black oxide patina.. etc..

Model number/logo inlay in bottom right corner etched/engraved with gold leaf inlay.

Glass stem collar to be made in brass, with matte patina.

I want the LED light to be a bit dim, not as harsh as a bare bulb. So I may try to inset a white LED behind a dome of semi-opaque tinted epoxy.

Outside dimensions (not including stem) = 50mm wide x 25mm thick x 90mm high or 2" x 1" x 3.54"

Thoughts appreciated! This is my last digital design phase before making a semi-functional prototype out of the final materials. The aesthetic design process has been long, but I think that the final product will benefit from this early groundwork.
 

Kalessin

Well-Known Member
Some new concept models.

ihbzGbp.jpg


I made this out of wood/paper, then made some adjustments in Photoshop. I feel like the design is almost fully tweaked at this point.

I built this around available rectangular steel stock for the main body. The wood choices will probably be walnut, beech, teak, rosewood...etc.. all tight grain stable woods.

The steel will be available with various high quality surface treatments, paint, DLC coating (perhaps $$$), blue/black oxide patina.. etc..

Model number/logo inlay in bottom right corner etched/engraved with gold leaf inlay.

Glass stem collar to be made in brass, with matte patina.

I want the LED light to be a bit dim, not as harsh as a bare bulb. So I may try to inset a white LED behind a dome of semi-opaque tinted epoxy.

Outside dimensions (not including stem) = 50mm wide x 25mm thick x 90mm high or 2" x 1" x 3.54"

Thoughts appreciated! This is my last digital design phase before making a semi-functional prototype out of the final materials. The aesthetic design process has been long, but I think that the final product will benefit from this early groundwork.
Holy smokes! Or vapor, whatever. That is amazing. I am in love with the idea of one with the green tint on the left and some rosewood. I think it looks great, personally, can't think of any way I'd change it
 

Kalessin

Well-Known Member
I want the LED light to be a bit dim, not as harsh as a bare bulb. So I may try to inset a white LED behind a dome of semi-opaque tinted epoxy.
In the mockup I see you have the LEDs as different colors, are you planning to individualize that for each production unit, or decide on a standard tint color for all units? Personally I think if I could get a greened steel body with rosewood a darkish blue light would look nice, for instance
 

hippogriff

Well-Known Member
Some new concept models.

ihbzGbp.jpg


I made this out of wood/paper, then made some adjustments in Photoshop. I feel like the design is almost fully tweaked at this point.

I built this around available rectangular steel stock for the main body. The wood choices will probably be walnut, beech, teak, rosewood...etc.. all tight grain stable woods.

The steel will be available with various high quality surface treatments, paint, DLC coating (perhaps $$$), blue/black oxide patina.. etc..

Model number/logo inlay in bottom right corner etched/engraved with gold leaf inlay.

Glass stem collar to be made in brass, with matte patina.

I want the LED light to be a bit dim, not as harsh as a bare bulb. So I may try to inset a white LED behind a dome of semi-opaque tinted epoxy.

Outside dimensions (not including stem) = 50mm wide x 25mm thick x 90mm high or 2" x 1" x 3.54"

Thoughts appreciated! This is my last digital design phase before making a semi-functional prototype out of the final materials. The aesthetic design process has been long, but I think that the final product will benefit from this early groundwork.
Best yet, I really dig the materials choices and balance of details.

I work w/ LEDs and resins (www.transcendentappliance.com), the LEDs definitely benefit from diffusion and resin could be a beautiful solution. I've cast little colored lenses for projects, but in this tiny package I want to suggest light diffusing film like this. Durable, easy to work with, and especially in tight spaces, superior diffusion. If you're really attached to resin (I f'ing love coloring resin) I'd even suggest resin on film, because doping resin w/ the right amount of opaque-ness can be inconsistent. Dropping colored resin onto light diffusing film would produce a nice little dome, even.
 

NickDlow

Log Hog
Some new concept models.

ihbzGbp.jpg


I made this out of wood/paper, then made some adjustments in Photoshop. I feel like the design is almost fully tweaked at this point.

I built this around available rectangular steel stock for the main body. The wood choices will probably be walnut, beech, teak, rosewood...etc.. all tight grain stable woods.

The steel will be available with various high quality surface treatments, paint, DLC coating (perhaps $$$), blue/black oxide patina.. etc..

Model number/logo inlay in bottom right corner etched/engraved with gold leaf inlay.

Glass stem collar to be made in brass, with matte patina.

I want the LED light to be a bit dim, not as harsh as a bare bulb. So I may try to inset a white LED behind a dome of semi-opaque tinted epoxy.

Outside dimensions (not including stem) = 50mm wide x 25mm thick x 90mm high or 2" x 1" x 3.54"

Thoughts appreciated! This is my last digital design phase before making a semi-functional prototype out of the final materials. The aesthetic design process has been long, but I think that the final product will benefit from this early groundwork.

Looks fantastic dan!

Have we brought up any vapor cooling ideas? Or is that even a concern?

Also @Snappo has sourced some amazing stabilized blanks for me before for a couple custom box mods (ecig). Would that be a possibility for this vape?
 
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