The Mighty/Mighty+ by Storz & Bickel

[vapviking]

Can anyone direct me to a tutorial on posting pictures (removing meta-data, etc. and the posting procedures for newFC)?
I anticipate popping the hood on Mighty very soon, since the new batteries from @JCat have finally hit my home post office!
Yesterday I cut open the screw holes and found a 'close enough' hex wrench. Finally procured some 99% iso alcohol last week (that's been scarce around these parts...). Only wish I had a replacement chamber bowl to put in there.

Damn that sucks, I have a unit I need to send in for the screen problem and I'm not feeling super confident about it now.

What is "the screen problem?"

 

[invertedisdead]

@vapviking The LCD display is going out, less than a year old.

 

[SquirrelMaster]

Here's V2
View attachment 1541

Can anyone direct me to a tutorial on posting pictures (removing meta-data, etc. and the posting procedures for newFC)?
I anticipate popping the hood on Mighty very soon, since the new batteries from @JCat have finally hit my home post office!
Yesterday I cut open the screw holes and found a 'close enough' hex wrench. Finally procured some 99% iso alcohol last week (that's been scarce around these parts...). Only wish I had a replacement chamber bowl to put in there.


What is "the screen problem?"

If you're using an android phone you can remove EXIF with a free app "Photo EXIF Editor". On Win10 you can right click on the photo and go into properties to remove all personal data.

For hosting there are a few good sites, I've been using www.imgbb.com and it's served me well. You can also upload photos directly to NFC but you have to watch your file size I believe.

 

[jbm]

@vapviking The LCD display is going out, less than a year old.

Same here, it goes in and out. It's never been outside, never had direct sunlight on it. 7 months old.

 

[invertedisdead]

Same here, it goes in and out. It's never been outside, never had direct sunlight on it. 7 months old.

Yup, I don't really recall people talking about it much either so I was surprised to look it up online and see it's somewhat of a common issue with these. The problem doesn't seem to go back in time near as long as the Mighty has been around for, so it appears to be an issue with more recent Mighty's.

 

[vapviking]

Yesterday I went through my tear down of Mighty (purchased Oct. 2015). After problems with 4 Crafty's over 2 years, S&B let me upgrade to Mighty for $60. Batteries were down to giving about 4 bowls/charge.

I received a pair of 3,000 mah's set-up by @JCat and put them in. He did a beautiful job and they went in "easily". Everything in there is very tight and the fit is very fussy. I managed to break the case in only 2 3 places; pretty good for me! Miraculously, when re-assembled and screws tightened, it is snugly 'together'. I'm quite concerned about a fatal drop in the future, but I did complete the task at hand. I also opened the heater tube and cleaned inside of that and the vapor tube. Draw is now slightly more open; I think iso soaking the vapor tube/chamber assembly was a good thing.

I will post some photos soon. Unfortunately some of the events went un-photographed. When something goes wrong I get too busy digging my way out of the hole I'm in! Like that internal o-ring inside the heater tube that broke and I macguyver'd with some high temp whip tubing...
I should have at least measured the original o-ring for the record...anyone going through this process should plan to replace it, so I regret not documenting that part. It's not part of the standard "wear and tear" kit.

Will be writing & posting more with the pics.

Oh, I didn't check heat-up with first bowl, but on third it went from ambient to 180c in 1:22. Not to shabby...

If you're using an android phone you can remove EXIF with a free app "Photo EXIF Editor". On Win10 you can right click on the photo and go into properties to remove all personal data.

For hosting there are a few good sites, I've been using www.imgbb.com and it's served me well. You can also upload photos directly to NFC but you have to watch your file size I believe.

Super. Thanks.
If I upload to imgbb, do I then copy/paste them into dialog box? Or do I use the "insert image (ctrl P)" button to link the url?
Or could it be "Insert Media?" Or "Insert File?" I do get myself tied up in ??? sometimes...

 

[Stu]

If I upload to imgbb, do I then copy/paste them into dialog box? Or do I use the "insert image (ctrl P)" button to link the url?
Or could it be "Insert Media?" Or "Insert File?" I do get myself tied up in ??? sometimes...

The easiest way is to hit the insert image icon and just drag and drop the image into the dialog box or choose the "upload image" option. If you want to use imgbb or another image host first, you would simply select "by url" when using the insert image icon.

 

[SquirrelMaster]

The easiest way is to hit the insert image icon and just drag and drop the image into the dialog box or choose the "upload image" option. If you want to use imgbb or another image host first, you would simply select "by url" when using the insert image icon.

I always used the Bbcode link for the old site and kept doing that for NFC. Don't you know if it matters which they're linked, or does either way work? I I usually link a smaller sized image than the original to in case some don't have high bandwidth connections.

 

[Djsleepy]

Question ,I can't seem to find it and I know someone has already posted.....using the Data 3d V3 WPA do you remove.blue oring. around heater when using? TIA

 

[vapviking]

Question ,I can't seem to find it and I know someone has already posted.....using the Data 3d V3 WPA do you remove.blue oring. around heater when using? TIA

No, it always stays in place.

 

[Djsleepy]

No, it always stays in place.

I use it , just was wondering if I was remembering correctly....thanks!

 

[vapviking]

Dis-Assembly & Battery Replacement, Mighty (#MY0234XX, circa 10/2015)
-- New batteries, internal cleaning (June 17, 2020)

As I mentioned a couple posts up, the batteries came from @JCat , though idk the spec, they are either 3,000 or maybe 3120 mAh versus 2700’s that came out. His thread for replacement battery, instructions, video, discussion etc.:
Custom Crafty Battery Packs for Easy Replacement

Separately, there’s a pretty good Youtube (below) of a battery job on a Mighty, very helpful; there don’t seem to be many around.
I cannot vouch for the safety of the soldering practices in this video (I just don’t know enough about it).
He also did not point out the bottom latch clearly.
To open the case he used a 1.5 mm hex driver. I believe the 1.5 mm is probably correct, but I could not get mine to fit. I used a 1/16” hex driver instead. It worked fine right up to the end; on re-tightening the last bit I probably did some damage to the screw. I hope I don’t need to open the case ever again.
The Youtube does show the tabs and slots at the top clearly and how to slide the case open.

Spoiler: YouTube video

I hope I’m not too imprecise or redundant in my descriptions below. I was not intending a full-blown instructional-type guide, just some of my experience.

I exposed the screw holes with a sharp knife:




The two halves of the case interlock at three points, two at the top and one at the bottom. After removing the two case screws, remove the orange poker and under it is the tab to push. It is visible in next photo. Push in on tab and pry the halves apart slightly at the bottom seam using a screwdriver or poker. This took a minute or two; stubborn parts after years together.

Do not pull the halves more than about ½” apart at bottom -- they are attached by tabs at the top that can easily break. The Youtube shows these steps clearly.
You can see the 4 top tabs hanging down from the top edge in next photo. They fit into slots on the other half.

Slide the back cover up so it’s tabs clear their matching slots on the housing front cover. This also took some gentle persuasion. I did break both slots at the top, but one end of each did not break off, so I was able to re-assemble “okay” when the time came. Phew.
I now understand the reason some Mighty's seem to "come apart at the seam" along the top. The slots are not much sturdier than the little railings that break so easily near the chamber sides. The tabs you see here are stronger than the slots into which they fit.



Next are existing internals. There is debris at the entry to the air path, seen in next two photos:





And next shows the air path entry hole, cleared but not yet cleaned. It’s the crescent shaped hole at the bottom of the plastic case that holds the heater and its' housing, the heater's temp sensor and the chamber.



The plastic housing and metal insert that holds the heater and chamber. The insert is shown again in the photo that follows this one.



Next photo is the insert assembly that houses the heater and the air path and has the chamber fastened to it.

The round hole centered at the bottom is where the heater tube inserts, and the semi-circular hole is the air intake.

The heater itself is a tube-like stick, seen on the mat in the background of the photo below. I did not get a photo of the heater’s temp sensor.

Note the black o-ring (was originally blue, silicone) around the outside of the chamber. I should have measured this, it should be s.o.p. to replace this as part of this procedure; maybe a guess of size can be made based on the chamber it encircles. The ring broke into 3 pieces and I did not have a match, but I did fashion one from some high temp silicone tubing and was able to move forward. Unfortunately, no pics of that either.

I soaked the metal insert (all aluminum?) in iso alcohol for about 90 minutes. You can’t see light through this tube; there is some sort of baffle at the top just below chamber holes, that prevents seeing anything inside the tubes. It would be fascinating to see the insides! I could not ascertain if or where the two paths might join together; didn’t spend much time exploring that.



Next are two pics of the new batteries.
@JCat soldered the leads on, added the proper plugs and wrapped all. Nicely done!
I swapped the temp. sensors on to them from the old batteries, and I also peeled/stuck some end covers from the old to the new. There was also a bumper stuck on top end of each battery, for snug fit.





All back in place in next photo. On the left-hand battery I did have to move the temp sensor a little to the right before the cover would fit on. It is a fussy fit, all the stuff in there!



As I mentioned, the two slots at top of case broke partially during opening, though they are holding well enough on assembly.
I also had to fashion an o-ring to replace the brittle one.
In the end, it all snapped together and looks just fine.
I replaced all the other seals, the chamber screen and the mouthpiece stem. I leave c/u screen off lately.

I admit that I wanted the chamber to look clean, so I used a very fine sandpaper on the aluminum chamber walls, just enough to clean it up. I’m sure this has created some fine scratches that will just trap gunk sooner, but I have been trying to use capsules a lot lately and using them keeps the bowl cleaner. I don't recommend the sandpaper treatment, btw. To the bowl, that is...

The draw is marginally better, I believe mainly due to the removal of lint/debris from the entrance to the airway. Deep cleaning (iso soaking) the air path had to help on some level as well.

The Mighty, when fully charged now heats in 1 minute, 15 seconds (29C to 180C). I believe this is faster than when new!
I've now got the "20% more battery power" Mighty.

Long may it run!
With a little luck, I won't need a Mighty+!

Thanks again @JCat for taking the initiative, and to @SquirrelMaster and @Stu for teaching me how to do photos here.
I've learned that 10 pix per post is the limit, good thing that's all I had...

 

[JCat]

Dis-Assembly & Battery Replacement, Mighty (#MY0234XX, circa 10/2015)
-- New batteries, internal cleaning (June 17, 2020)

As I mentioned a couple posts up, the batteries came from @JCat , though idk the spec, they are either 3,000 or maybe 3120 mAh versus 2700’s that came out. His thread for replacement battery, instructions, video, discussion etc.:
Custom Crafty Battery Packs for Easy Replacement

Separately, there’s a pretty good Youtube (below) of a battery job on a Mighty, very helpful; there don’t seem to be many around.
I cannot vouch for the safety of the soldering practices in this video (I just don’t know enough about it).
He also did not point out the bottom latch clearly.
To open the case he used a 1.5 mm hex driver. I believe the 1.5 mm is probably correct, but I could not get mine to fit. I used a 1/16” hex driver instead. It worked fine right up to the end; on re-tightening the last bit I probably did some damage to the screw. I hope I don’t need to open the case ever again.
The Youtube does show the tabs and slots at the top clearly and how to slide the case open.

Spoiler: YouTube video

I hope I’m not too imprecise or redundant in my descriptions below. I was not intending a full-blown instructional-type guide, just some of my experience.

I exposed the screw holes with a sharp knife:


View attachment 1616

The two halves of the case interlock at three points, two at the top and one at the bottom. After removing the two case screws, remove the orange poker and under it is the tab to push. It is visible in next photo. Push in on tab and pry the halves apart slightly at the bottom seam using a screwdriver or poker. This took a minute or two; stubborn parts after years together.

Do not pull the halves more than about ½” apart at bottom -- they are attached by tabs at the top that can easily break. The Youtube shows these steps clearly.
You can see the 4 top tabs hanging down from the top edge in next photo. They fit into slots on the other half.

Slide the back cover up so it’s tabs clear their matching slots on the housing front cover. This also took some gentle persuasion. I did break both slots at the top, but one end of each did not break off, so I was able to re-assemble “okay” when the time came. Phew.
I now understand the reason some Mighty's seem to "come apart at the seam" along the top. The slots are not much sturdier than the little railings that break so easily near the chamber sides. The tabs you see here are stronger than the slots into which they fit.

View attachment 1627

Next are existing internals. There is debris at the entry to the air path, seen in next two photos:

View attachment 1634

View attachment 1619

And next shows the air path entry hole, cleared but not yet cleaned. It’s the crescent shaped hole at the bottom of the plastic case that holds the heater and its' housing, the heater's temp sensor and the chamber.

View attachment 1620

The plastic housing and metal insert that holds the heater and chamber. The insert is shown again in the photo that follows this one.

View attachment 1621

Next photo is the insert assembly that houses the heater and the air path and has the chamber fastened to it.

The round hole centered at the bottom is where the heater tube inserts, and the semi-circular hole is the air intake.

The heater itself is a tube-like stick, seen on the mat in the background of the photo below. I did not get a photo of the heater’s temp sensor.

Note the black o-ring (was originally blue, silicone) around the outside of the chamber. I should have measured this, it should be s.o.p. to replace this as part of this procedure; maybe a guess of size can be made based on the chamber it encircles. The ring broke into 3 pieces and I did not have a match, but I did fashion one from some high temp silicone tubing and was able to move forward. Unfortunately, no pics of that either.

I soaked the metal insert (all aluminum?) in iso alcohol for about 90 minutes. You can’t see light through this tube; there is some sort of baffle at the top just below chamber holes, that prevents seeing anything inside the tubes. It would be fascinating to see the insides! I could not ascertain if or where the two paths might join together; didn’t spend much time exploring that.

View attachment 1623

Next are two pics of the new batteries.
@JCat soldered the leads on, added the proper plugs and wrapped all. Nicely done!
I swapped the temp. sensors on to them from the old batteries, and I also peeled/stuck some end covers from the old to the new. There was also a bumper stuck on top end of each battery, for snug fit.

View attachment 1624

View attachment 1625

All back in place in next photo. On the left-hand battery I did have to move the temp sensor a little to the right before the cover would fit on. It is a fussy fit, all the stuff in there!

View attachment 1626

As I mentioned, the two slots at top of case broke partially during opening, though they are holding well enough on assembly.
I also had to fashion an o-ring to replace the brittle one.
In the end, it all snapped together and looks just fine.
I replaced all the other seals, the chamber screen and the mouthpiece stem. I leave c/u screen off lately.

I admit that I wanted the chamber to look clean, so I used a very fine sandpaper on the aluminum chamber walls, just enough to clean it up. I’m sure this has created some fine scratches that will just trap gunk sooner, but I have been trying to use capsules a lot lately and using them keeps the bowl cleaner. I don't recommend the sandpaper treatment, btw. To the bowl, that is...

The draw is marginally better, I believe mainly due to the removal of lint/debris from the entrance to the airway. Deep cleaning (iso soaking) the air path had to help on some level as well.

The Mighty, when fully charged now heats in 1 minute, 15 seconds (29C to 180C). I believe this is faster than when new!
I've now got the "20% more battery power" Mighty.

Long may it run!
With a little luck, I won't need a Mighty+!

Thanks again @JCat for taking the initiative, and to @SquirrelMaster and @Stu for teaching me how to do photos here.
I've learned that 10 pix per post is the limit, good thing that's all I had...

Superb write up! Really nicely documented

 

[blackstone]

very strange, not 3d in my case just a cheapo sticker with mighty, volcano and crafty and their logos in the middle.Three stickers on a gold foil, nothing much, not even thick vinyl , they seems really cheap compared to the 3d volcano sticker which have some 3d structure which pops out. Did you received different ones than me? I did not received any card for registering and the mighty is from the fall of 2019.
@Chemdawg Did you tried some vegetable oil on the joint?
edit : can somebody speak about the updated materials on crafty +? is it cracking less?
@vapviking any benefits of registering it ? +1year warranty should be there

I never got a sticker with a Mighty so you are lucky, it seems all the gold is for their anniversary so.
When I googled I think I saw the ones you got?


But they went a little step above for the Volcano Hybrid, they are textured decals with raised letters on a clear backing, and they're quite big.
It would have been really nice to get one of those badges they had a while back. I'll take ages figuring out where to stick these!

 

[Djsleepy]

Man I can't say enough good things about this Delta3D WPA......I'm super
Baked .....have a great weekend everyone!

 

[SquirrelMaster]

@vapviking
Thank you for all your hard work documenting the repair! You've done a major service to the community with your post and I'll be sure to refer others to your post in the future. It sounds like your Mighty is even better now which is excellent! I'm with you on the dosing caps, that's all I've been using to keep everything clean and they work really well. Almost too well when you fill the dosing cap holder and then keep loading new caps until you realize you're 8 caps deep and really high !

 

[TheMutzNutz]

Hello! I joined team mighty recently so thought I'd sign up. I read through the thread on the old site from about page 500 before ending up here.

Appreciate the how to on the battery swap that is good to know so thank you!

My vaping experience started with a Haze V3 before I picked up a Firefly 2+ and now on to the mighty so will probably sell my Firefly and keep the haze as an Emery backup.

Loving the mighty so far so much less hassle than the firefly although it does make me cough badly even at lower temps.

I'm looking at getting a bubbler for it but considering using a whip from the original mighty mouth piece. Something about having water directly over the electronics makes me nervous.

I have no real experience with water other than the odd plastic water bottle bongs as a teen so I'm on the hunt now.

Also if I may add to the ongoing mystery of why the mighty wasn't made to stand up on its own. I always used to use Sony phones until after the Z5 and their phones always had really sharp corners and one thing I noticed over the years was that my right hand pockets always got holes in them! I think they kept it rounded just for ergonomics and I've just noticed where the filling tool is stored there is an notch which is intended for the tool to fit in the opposite way around. This to me would imply that S&B didn't give a toss about it being too heavy it unstable because that tool is a rubbish stand!

 

[Bazinga]

I couldn't stand (pun intended) that the Mighty could not stand on it's own. I ended up buying one designed for the Mighty. Works great. I think it was about 15 bucks. The stirring etc. tool thingy can be used to stand the device, but it is not very effective.

 

[vapviking]

The little "railings" along the sides of the chamber are actually pretty delicate (and these were increased in size shortly after Mighty's release). The piece broke on my Mighty due to a simple face-plant (no fall) onto a table. The cooling unit was installed when it happened and did not provide ample protection. Even if Mighty were flat on the bottom, with square edges, I believe it's center of gravity is not low enough to make it viable.
So, I agree with the school of thought that S&B did not intend that Mighty stand on its' own and did not plan any cute little orange stick to be a proper stand.
I pro-actively recommend against trying to stand Mighty upright by itself, poker tool or no poker tool. When I use a stand, it's a glow-in-the-dark Delta3dstudios.

I'm looking at getting a bubbler for it but considering using a whip from the original mighty mouth piece. Something about having water directly over the electronics makes me nervous.

A whip can help, but you are on the right track thinking about water tool.
With use you can become less nervous, but you can also use something that Mighty sits on top of, like an MF Orbiter type thing.

 

[Socks And Sandals]

Well guys, my Mighty is no more. I had it exchanged for a full refund with PIU as I was tired of being told that it was ok and the only other option they could give me is an open box unit. It seems to me in their response was.. that they insisted that it wasn't dropping 20 degrees with every hit. Also another reply I got from Puff It Up said they they only tested it with nothing in the bowl. I don't know, but I was done waiting. And just as I was in the checkout cart at S&B (getting ready to glady pay $100 more than PIU's Price on the Mighty) .. I started thinking about just picking up the hybrid instead.

I'm not sure what the problem was but I don't accept Open Box Units. Since my intention was just to go ahead and pay full price with it over at S&B, I'm actually thinking of just biting the bullet and jumping straight to the Hybrid instead. I'll be spending the next few days trying to make an educated decision on it. I think either way, I'll be buying another mighty again down the line after the Hybrid because I have a love/hate thing with my Dynavap and it's consistency with performance so I never use it anymore..

Anyone here have experience with both the Mighty and the Hybrid that doesn't mind giving me their personal pros and cons of each? Love to hear from you!

 

[Vape Soda]

Well guys, my Mighty is no more. I had it exchanged for a full refund with PIU as I was tired of being told that it was ok and the only other option they could give me is an open box unit. It seems to me in their response was.. that they insisted that it wasn't dropping 20 degrees with every hit. Also another reply I got from Puff It Up said they they only tested it with nothing in the bowl. I don't know, but I was done waiting. And just as I was in the checkout cart at S&B (getting ready to glady pay $100 more than PIU's Price on the Mighty) .. I started thinking about just picking up the hybrid instead.

I'm not sure what the problem was but I don't accept Open Box Units. Since my intention was just to go ahead and pay full price with it over at S&B, I'm actually thinking of just biting the bullet and jumping straight to the Hybrid instead. I'll be spending the next few days trying to make an educated decision on it. I think either way, I'll be buying another mighty again down the line after the Hybrid because I have a love/hate thing with my Dynavap and it's consistency with performance so I never use it anymore..

Anyone here have experience with both the Mighty and the Hybrid that doesn't mind giving me their personal pros and cons of each? Love to hear from you!

I own both for several month and they are hardly comparable. The best comparison would be using a dosing capsule with the whip on the hybrid and one capsule with the mighty. In this case the hybrid will give you the faster extraction, even at same temps. With pump assisted draws and a proper heatsoak you can finish a capsule in a few big rips on the whip. The mighty is always a longer session with a lot of draws but it is just super convenient to carry it trough the house or laying back on the couch/bed and sip. For me and my VAS, owning both is the best option. So I use my portables trough the day and end up with a desktop(mostly hybrid) in the evening. Using bags on the hybrid is also another great option which I use a lot.

 

[blissfulyogi]

I never got a sticker with a Mighty so you are lucky, it seems all the gold is for their anniversary so.
When I googled I think I saw the ones you got?
View attachment 1653

But they went a little step above for the Volcano Hybrid, they are textured decals with raised letters on a clear backing, and they're quite big.
It would have been really nice to get one of those badges they had a while back. I'll take ages figuring out where to stick these!
View attachment 1654

Yes the first pic is exactly what I have, Its just a very cheap sticker. those that came with the volcano seems to be of much better quality

 

[JCat]

As I mentioned a couple posts up, the batteries came from @JCat , though idk the spec, they are either 3,000 or maybe 3120 mAh versus 2700’s that came out.

They are Sony VTC6 batteries. These are very simply a great cell ... highly regarded in the vaporizer community. The specs for these are 3,000mAh rated capacity w/ 3,120mAh nominal capacity. There is more to a cell then simply the mAh though ... the discharge characteristics are equally as important, and the fact that the discharge characteristics are well matched/suited for the application.

 

[vapviking]

They are Sony VTC6 batteries. These are very simply a great cell ... highly regarded in the vaporizer community. The specs for these are 3,000mAh rated capacity w/ 3,120mAh nominal capacity. There is more to a cell then simply the mAh though ... the discharge characteristics are equally as important, and the fact that the discharge characteristics are well matched/suited for the application.

This straightens out some confusion on my part. I knew that you clearly stated on your thread that you use the VTC6's, a 3120 mAh Sony. But I could see somewhat, through the over-wrap that you put on them, a "3,000". Thanks for the explanation.

 

[Stu]

This thread is now re-opened and has been merged with content from NewFC (if applicable). Read more about it here.