The Mighty/Mighty+ by Storz & Bickel

vapviking

Old and In the Way
Hey

I’m trying what you’ve suggested right now. I think I’ll have to resort to replacing the IC. The Mighty turns on and powers up the heating element all the while, flashing the low-battery indicator, halfway through heating up something occurs causing the Mighty to believe the batteries are dead and it turns off.
I just damaged one of the thinner battery leads that I’m guessing are there to detect battery failure/fire? Can anyone tell me or confirm what these are for? I’m referring to the black cables connected to each battery cell (Not the +/- cables).
If you're referring to the one that is not soldered to the tabs, just taped to the battery, that is the battery temp sensor.
 

daoist

Well-Known Member
So I was playing around with my mighty 18mm bong adapter, when i realized i forgot to get the screen out so when i turned it around and that was why it underperformed a bit. Normally i get the screen out of the bong adapter and put it directly on top of the mighty bowl.

But now while i was getting high, i was wondering if there would be a carbon filter that would fit into the bong adapter so i won't need any screen?
Has anyone any knowledge or ideas on it?
 
daoist,

vapviking

Old and In the Way
So I was playing around with my mighty 18mm bong adapter, when i realized i forgot to get the screen out so when i turned it around and that was why it underperformed a bit. Normally i get the screen out of the bong adapter and put it directly on top of the mighty bowl.

But now while i was getting high, i was wondering if there would be a carbon filter that would fit into the bong adapter so i won't need any screen?
Has anyone any knowledge or ideas on it?
I've read that folks put a concentrates pad in the glass to fill the gap between top of load and that wpa screen.
I don't have that wpa, but recently got the bubbler attachment (at piu) and I believe it has the same base arrangement. An oils pad fits snugly in there so yes, it could replace the screen. I think it would get gunky soon and be a maintenance issue (as would carbon fiber(?) idea). I think if you are putting a top screen on top of the load that you shouldn't need the wpa screen.

But thanks for the reminder, I've been using strictly dosing caps (so far...) in my nearly-new Mighty, now I see I can take the screen out of the bubbler altogether; it was just creating a place where condensate would collect.
 
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daoist

Well-Known Member
Well i don't really like the liquid pads to be honest. it makes it a harscher vaping experience.
 
daoist,

ChooChooCharlie

Well-Known Member
@invertedisdead - suppose we could be really picky, and say the conduction component is especially effective where it's actively heated by the vape, at the side walls

Screen at bottom of bowl -- not much conductivity there, and pacman screen or capsule lid on top of load is only relatively passive, lower temp conduction

I like to think of the pacman screen, or capsule lid, or liquid pad, on top of load as an insulating containment device -- keeps herb as a tighter puck, which offers better contact with hot side walls and doesn't let air flow bypass loosely packed herb with gaps (so nice not to worry about "spacers" with small Tafée Bowle pot loads :) )

@vapviking - know you were talking about removing screen from wpa, and not the CU, but your post took me on a self search historical stroll through this thread. So many friggin choo posts about removing CU screen with capsules. And advice to "wipe" CU inlet after each session, OCD maxing out, avoiding sticky capsule lids

Saw this old pic on page 512, from 2018, and felt it needed another show (spent time arranging lids, gotta get more mileage from it)
No-screens.jpg

If I'm repetitive and militant with my anti-screen capsule advice, my apologies. At least I'm not ranting to twist open CU with care
 

invertedisdead

Weapons of VAS Destruction
suppose we could be really picky, and say the conduction component is especially effective where it's actively heated by the vape, at the side walls

Screen at bottom of bowl -- not much conductivity there, and pacman screen or capsule lid on top of load is only relatively passive, lower temp conduction

I agree it needs to bridge off active conduction, that's why I do it with the inverted capsule lid as it nests directly against the heated sidewalls to continue the conduction effect across the top of the load. I used to use the mesh pad, but being stainless steel it doesn't have the same performance, and the open mesh lowers the conductivity significantly further, compared to the aluminum capsule lid.

so nice not to worry about "spacers" with small Tafée Bowle pot loads :) )

Yeah I thought the Bowle works well for small loads where the mighty would suck it all up to the CU screen.
 

Jack_72

Well-Known Member
How do you clean your filling aid or S&B Grinder? I remember how I have destroyed S&B accessories in the past because the orange plastic reacts with isopropanol. Other than the Mighty itself, the accessories don't seem to clean well with iso. However, my filling aid is now so "dusty" that I would like to clean it thoroughly, maybe I can even catch the dust in the process.

Do you have any tips on how best to do this?
 
Jack_72,

daoist

Well-Known Member
Other than a very nice fine grind the S&B grinder just sucks because half the grind gets stuck in the grinder.
Do yourself a favour and buy a new grinder. plastic grinders like that are supposed to be thrown away after a couple of uses.

I like the herborizer grinder because it is cheap and gives me nice grind. Ze Jermans have a bit of a plastic fetish over there.
I don't really get it why they put a 2 dollar grinder with a premium vaporizer. Nobody uses plastic grinders, unless they are in an emergency.
plasticparts probably end up in your flower. it is not good to use that thing. do yourself a favour and just buy a herborizer grinder.
I think the regular grinder is like 12 euro or something.
 
daoist,

justcametomind

Well-Known Member
Other than a very nice fine grind the S&B grinder just sucks because half the grind gets stuck in the grinder.
Do yourself a favour and buy a new grinder. plastic grinders like that are supposed to be thrown away after a couple of uses.

I like the herborizer grinder because it is cheap and gives me nice grind. Ze Jermans have a bit of a plastic fetish over there.
I don't really get it why they put a 2 dollar grinder with a premium vaporizer. Nobody uses plastic grinders, unless they are in an emergency.
plasticparts probably end up in your flower. it is not good to use that thing. do yourself a favour and just buy a herborizer grinder.
I think the regular grinder is like 12 euro or something.
I have 4 different sizes, 2 parts herborizer grinders but I don't believe they are safer to use than S&B grinders. They were gifted to me with purchases and came with metal chips and imperfections. There is friction going on when grinding. The grinders parts clash together and imho this could lead to metal particles ending up in your flower as well. I suspect they are manufactured in China with not much care for customer's health as much as all the metal grinders being sold for 10/20$. I have had a couple metal branded grinders I got from coffeeshops and imho the Herborizer grinders are not far off quality (and safety) wise.
 
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justcametomind,
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daoist

Well-Known Member
I got the mini grinder from herborizer after ordering a new heater. I am happy with the grind. I am not sure if this grinder is anodized or not.
I have no chipped pieces or damage with my grinder. I am actually more happy with my herborizer grinder than my 100 euro Space case, which makes me cough more for some reason (probabaly because the grind is to course).

There are probably better grinders out there, but then again a 100 dollar grinder is not a guarantee that it will be better.

What kind of damage do you experience from your herborizer grinder because mine seems fine.
It can jam a bit sometimes but that is probably because i got a (free) mini grinder, and not a bigger version.

It sure works a lot better than the S&B grinder.

Can you show me a picture of it what it looks like? (you can send private message to not contaminate this topic).
 
daoist,

vapviking

Old and In the Way
YES to @ChooChooCharlie on the screen-free c/u , thanks for the reminder.
"...'cause Mr. Charlie told me, Mr. Charlie told me so".

@Jack_72, I have used iso alcohol & brush with no troubles to clean those things, but not more than a couple of minutes exposure to it.
I admit to, on very rare occasion using the S&B grinder; it carries easily, so if I know I'm about to encounter a nice bud somehow (serendipity! can strike the open soul) I can grind it up and carry in that handy flip-side chamber. These grinders do degrade quickly and I've seen one of those orange teeth in my abv.

I have to agree with comments above that a decent grinder is prescribed here (unless your use is very infrequent). Personally, I would not go cheap on this item; look what the device and the herb cost! A nice accompanying grinder serves to improve and round out the quality of the whole experience.
Stimulus check, anyone?
 
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amsterdamned96

New Member
...
...

i'm almost sure the wrong battery level is caused by a bad IC.
you would need to read all ic's id- numbers on the pcb, and check the data sheets if they are "battery charging/monitoring -related" and if so replace it.
i would give you the "specifics", but mine is glued together. (caused by a broken tab when i replaced batteries.
Hey, it seems that I never replied to this post. This is really some crucial information however, the Mighty refuses to work normally even after the battery replacement. I’ve noted down the markings of most of the ICs and haven’t been able to track down datasheets of all the SMD components. What database do you suggest for this?
 
amsterdamned96,

Herbie

Well-Known Member
@invertedisdead - suppose we could be really picky, and say the conduction component is especially effective where it's actively heated by the vape, at the side walls

Screen at bottom of bowl -- not much conductivity there, and pacman screen or capsule lid on top of load is only relatively passive, lower temp conduction

I like to think of the pacman screen, or capsule lid, or liquid pad, on top of load as an insulating containment device -- keeps herb as a tighter puck, which offers better contact with hot side walls and doesn't let air flow bypass loosely packed herb with gaps (so nice not to worry about "spacers" with small Tafée Bowle pot loads :) )

@vapviking - know you were talking about removing screen from wpa, and not the CU, but your post took me on a self search historical stroll through this thread. So many friggin choo posts about removing CU screen with capsules. And advice to "wipe" CU inlet after each session, OCD maxing out, avoiding sticky capsule lids

Saw this old pic on page 512, from 2018, and felt it needed another show (spent time arranging lids, gotta get more mileage from it)
No-screens.jpg

If I'm repetitive and militant with my anti-screen capsule advice, my apologies. At least I'm not ranting to twist open CU with care

I use the capsules too. However, during use, little bits of herb do come through capsule lid. They then stick to the CU screen. I just cleaned that screen this morning. Quite a few bits of sticky ABV On the screen. I’m glad they were on the screen and not in my lungs. Maybe I’m hittin‘ that puppy a bit hard?
 
Herbie,
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daoist

Well-Known Member
Thats why vaporizers have screens. to not get herbs in your mouth.
This afternoon i tried the water adapter with standard configuration (space between screen and bowl) and it seemed to vape oke on the mighty at 195 degree celsius. Probably it was mostly convection heat, but it worked nice at that temperature.

It was actually smoother than with screens on top of the bowl.
 
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daoist,

ChooChooCharlie

Well-Known Member
Don't think herb bits can make it past the cooling maze of even a slightly resin coated CU

I learned a few years back to overfill caps when grinder diving/filling. Then the lid pushes it down tighter. A loose filled capsule leaks herb bits. Load shifts during inhale, giving more bits a chance to escape lid holes. A simple A/B comparison test will confirm

Some folks apparently harvest resin from their CU for use later, so I can understand them not wanting any bits ay all. But, I would be surprised if any bits got to your lungs. Used Mightys screenless for years, and never felt any bits in mouth or tongue

I was an early capsule user, and liked them so much, mailed some samples to FC folks years back. So, color my opinions on them as biased

I hated the sticky capsule lids!! Couldn't figure out why so sticky

Finally read a couple posts here in this thread about removing the CU screen. Like magic, no more sticky capsule lids (that screen condenses resin, it drips and runs along circular inlet rim, transferring to capsule lids) But must remember to wipe the CU inlet well after each session with q-tip or paper towel. Then I learned through trial and error to overfill capsules
 

Herbie

Well-Known Member
Don't think herb bits can make it past the cooling maze of even a slightly resin coated CU

I learned a few years back to overfill caps when grinder diving/filling. Then the lid pushes it down tighter. A loose filled capsule leaks herb bits. Load shifts during inhale, giving more bits a chance to escape lid holes. A simple A/B comparison test will confirm

Some folks apparently harvest resin from their CU for use later, so I can understand them not wanting any bits ay all. But, I would be surprised if any bits got to your lungs. Used Mightys screenless for years, and never felt any bits in mouth or tongue

I was an early capsule user, and liked them so much, mailed some samples to FC folks years back. So, color my opinions on them as biased

I hated the sticky capsule lids!! Couldn't figure out why so sticky

Finally read a couple posts here in this thread about removing the CU screen. Like magic, no more sticky capsule lids (that screen condenses resin, it drips and runs along circular inlet rim, transferring to capsule lids) But must remember to wipe the CU inlet well after each session with q-tip or paper towel. Then I learned through trial and error to overfill capsules

You’re likely right, any free particles would likely never make it to the mouthpiece even if the CU screen was out.

That being said, I pack the capsules full and tight. Probably close to .3 grams in each. Lids on tight. Medium grind from my BCG. Temp around 378. The lids get so sticky that they bond to the CU screen. Not sure why bits come out but they frequently do. They’re even large enough such that you’d think they could not get through the small holes in the lid. I am wondering if these “bits” are in reality, not herb pieces but rather condensed resin particles? I dunno.
 

ChooChooCharlie

Well-Known Member
@Herbie - clean your CU, remove screen, swab inlet after sesh

Try it, you'll like it:

Funny story related: Loaned Mighty to combuster, showed him how cool capsules were, gave tips on opening, boost temp double tap, sensor timeout tips, etc. Didn't think much of it at the time, but recall him asking if he could load the bowl directly like a pipe. I cheerfully said, sure!

Saw him next week, he wasn't pleased. Asked why, said he loaded bowl directly, and it was impossible to draw and got herb in mouth. OOPS ! Put back the CU screen if not using capsules, I forgot that bit of advice. Oddly enough, gave him an Omnivap also, and he loved it, go figure. Told him he could keep it
 

tdriver

Well-Known Member
Hey, it seems that I never replied to this post. This is really some crucial information however, the Mighty refuses to work normally even after the battery replacement. I’ve noted down the markings of most of the ICs and haven’t been able to track down datasheets of all the SMD components. What database do you suggest for this?
i usually just google them. but it is possible some are custom made , and to get more info about them is extremely difficult. although most of the time they just grind the markings from "common" ic's if they want to hide something.

did the battery replacement "broke" the mighty ? or didn't it work correctly before ?
 
tdriver,

amsterdamned96

New Member
i usually just google them. but it is possible some are custom made , and to get more info about them is extremely difficult. although most of the time they just grind the markings from "common" ic's if they want to hide something.
did the battery replacement "broke" the mighty ? or didn't it work correctly before ?
Thanks for getting back to me, I dropped the vaporizer in the bathtub. This is what damaged the circuitry, I had hoped that a battery replacement would alleviate the problems. Presumably water damage got the battery-level IC. I’m going to tackle my list of IC markings again in the hope something will turn up.
 
amsterdamned96,

tdriver

Well-Known Member
i usually just google them. but it is possible some are custom made , and to get more info about them is extremely difficult. although most of the time they just grind the markings from "common" ic's if they want to hide something.

Thanks for getting back to me, I dropped the vaporizer in the bathtub. This is what damaged the circuitry, I had hoped that a battery replacement would alleviate the problems. Presumably water damage got the battery-level IC. I’m going to tackle my list of IC markings again in the hope something will turn up.

i see, ...water damage.... you need to check every component ........ (it sucks i know) but it's possible it's just a simple resistor/capacitor/transistor.
 

Kaptan

Well-Known Member
I knew this would be coming soon as S&B almost never have sales on a product unless it’s Black Friday or some other occasion and they are now pushing out the old stock of Mighty’s with free wear & tear set to make way for the new + units. They should consider an additional 20% discount unless they have a very limited amount of stock. Who wants a regular Mighty with Mighty + availability soon? Maybe they will release for 4/20/2021?
 
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