suppose we could be really picky, and say the conduction component is especially effective where it's actively heated by the vape, at the side walls
Screen at bottom of bowl -- not much conductivity there, and pacman screen or capsule lid on top of load is only relatively passive, lower temp conduction
so nice not to worry about "spacers" with small Tafée Bowle pot loads )
I have 4 different sizes, 2 parts herborizer grinders but I don't believe they are safer to use than S&B grinders. They were gifted to me with purchases and came with metal chips and imperfections. There is friction going on when grinding. The grinders parts clash together and imho this could lead to metal particles ending up in your flower as well. I suspect they are manufactured in China with not much care for customer's health as much as all the metal grinders being sold for 10/20$. I have had a couple metal branded grinders I got from coffeeshops and imho the Herborizer grinders are not far off quality (and safety) wise.Other than a very nice fine grind the S&B grinder just sucks because half the grind gets stuck in the grinder.
Do yourself a favour and buy a new grinder. plastic grinders like that are supposed to be thrown away after a couple of uses.
I like the herborizer grinder because it is cheap and gives me nice grind. Ze Jermans have a bit of a plastic fetish over there.
I don't really get it why they put a 2 dollar grinder with a premium vaporizer. Nobody uses plastic grinders, unless they are in an emergency.
plasticparts probably end up in your flower. it is not good to use that thing. do yourself a favour and just buy a herborizer grinder.
I think the regular grinder is like 12 euro or something.
Hey, it seems that I never replied to this post. This is really some crucial information however, the Mighty refuses to work normally even after the battery replacement. I’ve noted down the markings of most of the ICs and haven’t been able to track down datasheets of all the SMD components. What database do you suggest for this?...
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i'm almost sure the wrong battery level is caused by a bad IC.
you would need to read all ic's id- numbers on the pcb, and check the data sheets if they are "battery charging/monitoring -related" and if so replace it.
i would give you the "specifics", but mine is glued together. (caused by a broken tab when i replaced batteries.
@invertedisdead - suppose we could be really picky, and say the conduction component is especially effective where it's actively heated by the vape, at the side walls
Screen at bottom of bowl -- not much conductivity there, and pacman screen or capsule lid on top of load is only relatively passive, lower temp conduction
I like to think of the pacman screen, or capsule lid, or liquid pad, on top of load as an insulating containment device -- keeps herb as a tighter puck, which offers better contact with hot side walls and doesn't let air flow bypass loosely packed herb with gaps (so nice not to worry about "spacers" with small Tafée Bowle pot loads )
@vapviking - know you were talking about removing screen from wpa, and not the CU, but your post took me on a self search historical stroll through this thread. So many friggin choo posts about removing CU screen with capsules. And advice to "wipe" CU inlet after each session, OCD maxing out, avoiding sticky capsule lids
Saw this old pic on page 512, from 2018, and felt it needed another show (spent time arranging lids, gotta get more mileage from it)
If I'm repetitive and militant with my anti-screen capsule advice, my apologies. At least I'm not ranting to twist open CU with care
Don't think herb bits can make it past the cooling maze of even a slightly resin coated CU
I learned a few years back to overfill caps when grinder diving/filling. Then the lid pushes it down tighter. A loose filled capsule leaks herb bits. Load shifts during inhale, giving more bits a chance to escape lid holes. A simple A/B comparison test will confirm
Some folks apparently harvest resin from their CU for use later, so I can understand them not wanting any bits ay all. But, I would be surprised if any bits got to your lungs. Used Mightys screenless for years, and never felt any bits in mouth or tongue
I was an early capsule user, and liked them so much, mailed some samples to FC folks years back. So, color my opinions on them as biased
I hated the sticky capsule lids!! Couldn't figure out why so sticky
Finally read a couple posts here in this thread about removing the CU screen. Like magic, no more sticky capsule lids (that screen condenses resin, it drips and runs along circular inlet rim, transferring to capsule lids) But must remember to wipe the CU inlet well after each session with q-tip or paper towel. Then I learned through trial and error to overfill capsules
i usually just google them. but it is possible some are custom made , and to get more info about them is extremely difficult. although most of the time they just grind the markings from "common" ic's if they want to hide something.Hey, it seems that I never replied to this post. This is really some crucial information however, the Mighty refuses to work normally even after the battery replacement. I’ve noted down the markings of most of the ICs and haven’t been able to track down datasheets of all the SMD components. What database do you suggest for this?
Thanks for getting back to me, I dropped the vaporizer in the bathtub. This is what damaged the circuitry, I had hoped that a battery replacement would alleviate the problems. Presumably water damage got the battery-level IC. I’m going to tackle my list of IC markings again in the hope something will turn up.did the battery replacement "broke" the mighty ? or didn't it work correctly before ?
i usually just google them. but it is possible some are custom made , and to get more info about them is extremely difficult. although most of the time they just grind the markings from "common" ic's if they want to hide something.
Thanks for getting back to me, I dropped the vaporizer in the bathtub. This is what damaged the circuitry, I had hoped that a battery replacement would alleviate the problems. Presumably water damage got the battery-level IC. I’m going to tackle my list of IC markings again in the hope something will turn up.
You posted first ever pic of the long awaited machine.Was ist das?
you have a direct link to the forum post? is this true? i look forward to a mighty plusWas ist das?
Picture cropped, stolen from Mighty plus leaked photo thread on Vapelife Forum
credits to @XclerkSeems the mighty plus may be coming soon. Its real! Somone posted a pic in vaporents they found in a german music video.