The Mighty/Mighty+ by Storz & Bickel

WakeAndVape

WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
Michel said:
I'm sure it would have been only a matter of time until you would have used the mighty's CU on the crafty! ;)

First time I had this whistling sound after I sliced the o-ring with the hologram. Same effect, better air draw but whispy vapor with the unwanted carb hole...
Then it was a deformed mouth piece. Light air leakage when pushed upwards.
Now it's a broken housing. No quick fix. The left part of the housing containing one of the batteries is completely detached from the top part. I can bend it away.

But I'm so much in love with the mighty, I can't see me sending it in to warranty even with the other (backup-) vaporizers I have...
Click to expand...
It's time for that shit to go!
 
Michel

Michel

Well-Known Member
diddymao said:
bite the bullet and send it back bro, what serial number you got, the newer model kicks ass
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117xx is my serial, I have an older unit which works great so far (apart the broken housing). I simply grab it tight when in use to make a seal again but I'm already dreaming about a new, clean and dust-free mighty.



WakeAndVape said:
It's time for that shit to go!
Click to expand...
Haha thx for the motivation for sending the mighty finally in but I'll abuse it until it falls apart or until I have something new to test and play with to tide me over. Currently asking myself if I should give the vapman a try since the pax 2 is still not available here (and your local head shop doesn't reply in my mails...)
 
Michel,
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WakeAndVape

WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
Michel said:
Haha thx for the motivation for sending the mighty finally in but I'll abuse it until it falls apart or until I have something new to test and play with to tide me over. Currently asking myself if I should give the vapman a try since the pax 2 is still not available here (and your local head shop doesn't reply in my mails...)
Click to expand...
Mine was being held together with a rubber band when I sent it in...lol
Why couldn't you just have some one here buy a pax and ship it to you? Are shipping costs THAT outrageous?
I'm waiting on my lily(lost in mail?) and a vapman (should be here today) but flame powered vapes CAN be nice
If I do get it today, I'll report back!

Given your record with storz I'm surprised you don't qualify for the 'trust you so much we will send it to you first club' that they have for super exclusive customers?
Since you in Germany, just take it down there yourself, slap on some goggles and help with testing...
 
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Marky

Marky

Active Member
elmomuzz said:
I get asked all the time to make muzzmods. Several things keep me from doing it. Firstly S&B have actually sued folks for making and marketing an accessory for the volcano. And the cost is also a deterrent. How much is my time worth? Honestly it's worth quite a bit so I'd have to charge $40-$50 for the muzzmod. That's just to much so I always encourage folks to make their own. It doesn't require any super skill just the proper motivation. Maybe I should not have included the torching the glass part in my how to. I think that might scare people but I wanted to show all possible steps that could be required.


In a perfect world S&B will see our efforts and manufacture a proper muzzmod. I think they might be worried about users blowing water into their devices.
Click to expand...

I know what you mean. I have been in the rc planes hobby for a while. I started making these hack modules for a popular transmitter that you connect to so it can work with different receivers without needing to buy the proper transmitter for it. I posted a tutorial and next thing I know for the next 2 months, I got tens of messages per day with people asking me to make them one. It's def not easy when you need to make 20 items in one day. The time is the worst part because I do it on my free time so that's why I charge a bit extra as well but that's normal. Nobody expects you to do it for the price of supplies only.

Now regarding the "muzzmod", I find it really simple to do. Just cut your cu where the circle piece that twists onto your unit is and sand it down so that it's flat and then place the glass adapter on it. You then clamp it down and add the epoxy weld around the seam between the cu piece and glass on the outside to make it airtight but you don't want the epoxy in the airpath since you can inhale the vapor from it. The torch part I feel most people got intimidated and decided not to attempt it but you don't even need the torch or anything else in fact. You can leave the glass as is. I feel that step is personal preference and not a necessity. But if anyone does want to smooth it out (if it isn't already once bought) they can use a dremel with a diamond bur bit or use diamond filers and sand the glass lightly.

Your a smart man for thinking to do this. You made many people really happy lol. Thank you.

-Mark
 
Jurkone

Jurkone

Well-Known Member
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Marky

Marky

Active Member
WakeAndVape said:
I think that's why the o rings on the older and newer units are different colors...
can you see if you put the o rings from the air-tight cooling unit on the one that's leaking air and see if it makes a difference, might be a simple fix to a common issue?
Click to expand...

Ok so I swapped o rings out and about. I first want to state that I removed my cu that came in the wear and tear kit that I said was airtight and noticed after blocking the screen hole again that it's not 100% airtight as I thought. I can feel the slightest draw with the hole closed, and I mean slightest. I don't mind it though because it's pretty much airtight (99.5%) but it has the most micro air leak. My thumb still gets sucked in. Im not surprised I didn't notice it yesterday because even now it feels airtight until I really try to force the air thru and focus on my lungs to see if I can get air in them. The crafty still hits on par with the mighty as that micro leak doesn't effect the performance at all.

So back to the o rings. I removed the o ring from the cu that I was just talking about (from my W&T kit) and installed it on the cu that originally came with my crafty that has a major air leak. I closed it back up and to my surprise, the cu was 100% airtight, even more than the other one. I swapped the bottom piece of that cu into the top piece of the cu that came with my W&T kit and had that minor air leak (99.5% airtight) again and when I swapped it back to the original cu top that came with my crafty, it was completely sealed shut and wouldn't let even the smallest amount of air thru. I thought I was going to suck the blood right out my thumb lol. I also tried the new o ring that came as backup with my crafty and even that o ring caused the cu to leak horribly just like the first o ring and they are both the same color and texture/diameter. The good o ring is the light baby blueish one. I can tell it's a tad bit thicker (1mm if that) and has better texture. Awkwardly tho, the cu on my mighty is just as airtight as my crafty cu is now and it has the same color and texture o ring as the ones that cause my crafty to leak badly.

I'm wondering why the top piece would cause a micro leak tho if the o ring is good? I am now using the old top part of the cu with the new bottom part, o rings and mouthpiece for a full 100% seal. The new top part causes a micro leak which doesn't effect performance at all tho. I will investigate further to figure out what's causing it.

-Mark
 
Marky

Marky

Active Member
BioSector said:
@Marky Have a look at this thread. Someone has discovered where the air is leaking in in his case. I'm at the office so can't confirm if it's my case, but curious about yours.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-crafty-by-storz-bickel.15984/page-235#post-838093
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Yea I already seen his post earlier. I looked at my cu this morning for the hole but couldn't find it so I assume that's not the case for me. I'm not too concerned because it's so minor. Some won't even consider it a leak but if it doesn't leave me gasping for air while I try to take a draw with the screen hole blocked then thats a leak to me. I already have another cu that is completely air tight which I'm currently using so I'm good. I just hope the cu's I buy in the future dont leak but it seems like a hit or miss. I'm making muzzmod anyway so I will just cut the cu with the minor leak. Thanks for your help.

Edit: So I took another look at it after reading he meant to look on the other side of the unit. I looked in the wrong spot. I used a flashlight and I confirmed a hole straight through the unit! My other 2 units do not have holes and they are completely air tight. I took a pic of the hole on my cu that leaks even with a good o ring. The hole to the left is the one that's punched thru. I'm assuming these were where the posts that held up the unit during fabricating were?? I'm def going to push SB to send me a new cu.

301k76r.png


-Mark
 
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BioSector

BioSector

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Pretty sure what I'm going to find when I take apart my "leaky" cooling units. :) Not sure if I'll bother getting replacement as in my case, the extra air flow is kinda nice and it doesn't affect performance. I could see how if both holes were open it would be too much extra flow though.
 
BioSector,
Marky

Marky

Active Member
BioSector said:
Pretty sure what I'm going to find when I take apart my "leaky" cooling units. :) Not sure if I'll bother getting replacement as in my case, the extra air flow is kinda nice and it doesn't affect performance. I could see how if both holes were open it would be too much extra flow though.
Click to expand...

I'm hoping to get a new unit and keep this one for my muzzmod lol. But otherwise the leak is not bad enough to effect performance as you said. The new o ring fixed my real air leak issue. It's still a defect that shouldn't be there tho.

-Mark
 
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BioSector

BioSector

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Marky said:
I'm hoping to get a new unit and keep this one for my muzzmod lol. But otherwise the leak is not bad enough to effect performance as you said. The new o ring fixed my real air leak issue. It's still a defect that shouldn't be there tho.

-Mark
Click to expand...

That's a great idea! Between repairs and wear and tear kits I have 3 airtight CU's for each my Mighty and Crafty. I'll turn their 1 leaky each into a muzz! :)
 
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BioSector

BioSector

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Thanks Mark. Not surprised at their reply. I expect my crafty back tomorrow or Wednesday and will report on that CU. haven't taken apart my leaky ones to confirm the hole yet.
 
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P

Pyr0

Stoned Roses
Oh dear, there certainly seems to be some quality control issues.
The original cooling unit on my Mighty is great with zero leakage when covering the screen with my thumb and sucking.
After reading about the leaky cooling units on here I thought I'd check the spare in the wear&tear kit I ordered when purchasing my Mighty, just in case.
It seems the spare unit here does have a slight leak as I can cover the screen and still suck/blow air and hear it escape.
This cooling unit has no holes inside, but seems to have a tolerance issue on the sides.. If I squeeze them while blowing or sucking, the sound of the air escaping practically stops.

Not sure if I should just write it off and purchase another spare cooling unit and hope I get a leak free one?
 
Pyr0,
Marky

Marky

Active Member
Pyr0 said:
Oh dear, there certainly seems to be some quality control issues.
The original cooling unit on my Mighty is great with zero leakage when covering the screen with my thumb and sucking.
After reading about the leaky cooling units on here I thought I'd check the spare in the wear&tear kit I ordered when purchasing my Mighty, just in case.
It seems the spare unit here does have a slight leak as I can cover the screen and still suck/blow air and hear it escape.
This cooling unit has no holes inside, but seems to have a tolerance issue on the sides.. If I squeeze them while blowing or sucking, the sound of the air escaping practically stops.

Not sure if I should just write it off and purchase another spare cooling unit and hope I get a leak free one?
Click to expand...

Def try swapping the big o ring from the good cu and put it on the cu that leaks and see if that fixes it. If so, then all you need is a o ring. What color o rings are in both cu btw?

If anything, def email SB and have them send you a new one and save the one that leaks for a muzzmod as suggested already. No way should you write it off. That's a manufacture defect Good luck.

-Mark
 
P

Pyr0

Stoned Roses
I'll shoot S&B an email and will try swapping orings when I get home this evening, thanks for the suggestion Mark :tup:
I have blue orings on both cooling units, but haven't compared them next to each other.
 
Pyr0,
Michel

Michel

Well-Known Member
WakeAndVape said:
Mine was being held together with a rubber band when I sent it in...lol
I'm waiting on my lily(lost in mail?) and a vapman (should be here today) but flame powered vapes CAN be nice
If I do get it today, I'll report back!

Given your record with storz I'm surprised you don't qualify for the 'trust you so much we will send it to you first club' that they have for super exclusive customers?
Since you in Germany, just take it down there yourself, slap on some goggles and help with testing...
Click to expand...

I think before my mighty really needs duck tape I'll send it finally in or I'll drive down to "Tuttlingen" myself and try to swap it out immediately. But since it would cost me some € to drive down there, I should better buy a vapman for some distraction. Cheaper and less time consuming for sure... Did you receive your vapman already?

I guess you need at least 2 defective units in a row to get the first class service... Perhaps I should ring them up and give it a try anyways. But I'm quite sure Anna, Nadine, Sandra or one of the other German lady's just answering the phones won't give a shit. It's hard to convince a secretary to redirect my phone call to Mr. Storz or Mr. Bickel or treat me better than she would treat you :lol:
 
Michel,
Marky

Marky

Active Member
I went ahead and cut my cu which had a hole in it for 1 of my 3 PonG's ("muzzmod") I plan on making. I was lazy and used my dremel lol. The cut was done in less than 30 seconds. It cut through like butter. In the pic below you see where I have the wheel lined up for the cut. All that is needed is a even slice as far deep and across from left to right and then repeat the same on the other side and it will fall right off. If you did it steady then you should be left with the tabs sticking out a bit and the surface untouched.

I then swapped out the cutting wheel attached to the dremel for a sanding wheel to sand down the tabs on the surface so that it is flat for the glass adapter to sit flush.

The final product is a flat and smooth surface. I'm very happy with the results and it was super quick and took no effort besides holding the dremel steady while cutting and sanding. I am still waiting on my glass adapters to arrive. Once they do, I will finish the mod.

116iemx.jpg


2ikpbua.jpg


34ngwtc.jpg


23mmnwz.jpg


-Mark
 
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R

radiant34

Well-Known Member
Hey all! Was wondering if I could get a collective consensus from all yall( especially if you have chipped housing). Is it worth it for me to try warranteeing this unit? Upgraded heater and reinforced housing sound like amazing updates. But I'm not sure wether or not the damages on my current unit are even enough to guarantee a new unit. http://imgur.com/9QEatEM
 
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Marky

Marky

Active Member
radiant34 said:
Hey all! Was wondering if I could get a collective consensus from all yall( especially if you have chipped housing). Is it worth it for me to try warranteeing this unit? Upgraded heater and reinforced housing sound like amazing updates. But I'm not sure wether or not the damages on my current unit are even enough to guarantee a new unit. http://imgur.com/9QEatEM
Click to expand...

I feel if you email them that picture and complain about it, they will replace it. I hope they don't expect you to use a unit like that with the price tag it's set at. At the least, they will just change the housing but at least it'll be the updated version. Don't hesitate to email them. Give it a shot and see what they say. Good luck!

-Mark
 
WakeAndVape

WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
radiant34 said:
Hey all! Was wondering if I could get a collective consensus from all yall( especially if you have chipped housing). Is it worth it for me to try warranteeing this unit? Upgraded heater and reinforced housing sound like amazing updates. But I'm not sure wether or not the damages on my current unit are even enough to guarantee a new unit. http://imgur.com/9QEatEM
Click to expand...
If it cuts and hurts your hands every time you hold it. I hope enough people complain about that knit-picky shit, that they actually come up with a housing that doesn't break with no real trauma! The REAL QUESTION is can you go without for 10 days?
Michel said:
Did you receive your vapman already?
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yes! :love: is fucking great! (Imo anyway)
 
P

Pyr0

Stoned Roses
Marky said:
Def try swapping the big o ring from the good cu and put it on the cu that leaks and see if that fixes it. If so, then all you need is a o ring. What color o rings are in both cu btw?

If anything, def email SB and have them send you a new one and save the one that leaks for a muzzmod as suggested already. No way should you write it off. That's a manufacture defect Good luck.

-Mark
Click to expand...
Swapping the orings made no difference :(
I was unable to spot any differences between the orings on the original CU and the CU from the wear & tear set.
I emailed S&B last night, they replied within a few minutes and after a couple of emails this morning they've offered to send me a replacement cooling unit.
Thank you Nicole and Storz & Bickel, you rock. :rockon::tup:
 
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