The Magic-Flight Box
- Thread starter magicflight
- Start date
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
Sorry was sleeping. The target mini 2 would work yes.
A nice little bonus is that Vaporesso Ccell tanks works really nice with oils. The Vaporesso Guardian tank was acually my go to for oils before it died.
Edit: fun fact. You may of heard about Ccell oilpens. Vaporesso invented Ccell and has a patent on it.
A nice little bonus is that Vaporesso Ccell tanks works really nice with oils. The Vaporesso Guardian tank was acually my go to for oils before it died.
Edit: fun fact. You may of heard about Ccell oilpens. Vaporesso invented Ccell and has a patent on it.
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Choices
Well-Known Member
So is this the tank I “convert into the adapter as well? What about the board you spoke of? Be nice Teach....
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
The board was something else, you can forget that part.
You would just need the mod (target mini 2 in this case) and this https://eciggity.com/billow-v2-rta-by-ehpro-eciggity/
After you get the Billow v2 you would need a metal pencil eraser cap like seen in this guide. https://imgur.com/a/CKIlx (scroll down)
The pencil eraser cap might be not able to handle the current, so I filed off the top of cap and slide down a form fitting rod.
Please note I just made this for personal use and didn't care about materials used. If you diy you would be responsible for that.
You would just need the mod (target mini 2 in this case) and this https://eciggity.com/billow-v2-rta-by-ehpro-eciggity/
After you get the Billow v2 you would need a metal pencil eraser cap like seen in this guide. https://imgur.com/a/CKIlx (scroll down)
The pencil eraser cap might be not able to handle the current, so I filed off the top of cap and slide down a form fitting rod.
Please note I just made this for personal use and didn't care about materials used. If you diy you would be responsible for that.
Choices
Well-Known Member
So I think I’ll skip the pen cap method and go with the specific steel rod setup. Would you advise for or against this?
Thanks for the insights. I’m excited to take this on and see what I can do....
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Me too @Choices . I am also excited that you are taking this on. I need to keep on top of those sales. That's a pretty good price. Where did you find it for $22?
Looks like we might have some spare heaters for the tanks @scy123 . I might be able to make this one work since it is already part of the kit.
@Choices - if you can stabilize it with foam or wood, you can fold over a coat hanger and stuff it in those two holes. Just sand off the coating and you have contact! That would make use #8,624,884,196 for coat-hanger wire.
Of course, you would go back and replace that with something more durable. I'm thinking a solid-14 copper wire folded over and stuffed in those holes maybe? That's regular house wiring that may be found in the trash at a building site.
Looks like we might have some spare heaters for the tanks @scy123 . I might be able to make this one work since it is already part of the kit.
@Choices - if you can stabilize it with foam or wood, you can fold over a coat hanger and stuff it in those two holes. Just sand off the coating and you have contact! That would make use #8,624,884,196 for coat-hanger wire.
Of course, you would go back and replace that with something more durable. I'm thinking a solid-14 copper wire folded over and stuffed in those holes maybe? That's regular house wiring that may be found in the trash at a building site.
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
You would need something to hold the steel rod either way, the pencil cap is good for this too. Steel rod is 100% better.
rizzoizzoz
Member
I havent used mine in a while after switching to a more powerful screen powered device. However, I still want to use my mflb because of the pocket-able size. Has anyone experimented with more powerful batteries for this, that delivers good results? perhaps advancements in batteries technology can give us something suitable for application in the mflb to boost up the power.
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
I notice you like dabs.
MFLB Maud Dib temp regulated at 400f firing for 20s.
I have something in the works, but won't be ready for say 6months. If you follow my recent post you can see more details, including how to make one now.
MFLB Maud Dib temp regulated at 400f firing for 20s.
Code:
https://i.imgur.com/CrjDPEu.mp4I have something in the works, but won't be ready for say 6months. If you follow my recent post you can see more details, including how to make one now.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
I did exactly that @rizzoizzoz - turns out Sub-C Ni-Mh cells work very well if they are rated for high current. Mine are Tenergy and they are rated to 5C. I have used 3800mah and 4200mah. They also make a 5000mah cell. I recommend the 4200 at a minimum but if funds are not the object, the 5000mah cells run about $10.
The experience is the same as having a very good MF cell.
@scy123 is working on a MOD option. That should be the pinnacle of LB firing.
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
Yea, if it would not be so close to my face, I might consider trying to see but.....
Don't know if you guys are seriously interested, but you have to remember about safety. Mods have a lot of that built in and even better with mods that have built in batteries.
Hehehehe
Don't know if you guys are seriously interested, but you have to remember about safety. Mods have a lot of that built in and even better with mods that have built in batteries.
Hehehehe
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Seriously dangerous is a 5th scale gas powered RC race car in the hands of a novice!
You have to work at screwing up 1.25V, like sticking it in your pocket with keys.
And even that is just annoying when your burn your leg and melt your car key to your house key.
You really want to try something dangerous? Crowbar your 12V car battery
Done that - still here.
The top of that battery is literally in heaven somewhere. Had I leaned the other way, no TommyDee on FC.
The typical limitation on those circuits is the choke. Their wire gauge is just not up to delivering the current we need. All the current has to pass through these chokes.
You have to work at screwing up 1.25V, like sticking it in your pocket with keys.
And even that is just annoying when your burn your leg and melt your car key to your house key.
You really want to try something dangerous? Crowbar your 12V car battery
Done that - still here. The top of that battery is literally in heaven somewhere. Had I leaned the other way, no TommyDee on FC.
The typical limitation on those circuits is the choke. Their wire gauge is just not up to delivering the current we need. All the current has to pass through these chokes.
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scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
I don't know. I go out of my way and thoroughly explain everything. Taking multiple videos graphs and pics of everything. Including detailed and easy instructions to make one.
But still sense some resentment. I only mention stuff you where doing cause you kept mentioning everything you could think of to go wrong with my stuff. Including making up false numbers.
I haven't mentioned a single thing you where doing in days and kept to what I was working on..... maybe you do the same? Every single one of your post seems to mention me now and I have the urge to defend myself, making it look like I like to spam or something.
Instead of making jab post... maybe make some videos and pics of how good your stuff is? Easy enough to comment on other peoples videos and such when you don't have your own for comparison.
But still sense some resentment. I only mention stuff you where doing cause you kept mentioning everything you could think of to go wrong with my stuff. Including making up false numbers.
I haven't mentioned a single thing you where doing in days and kept to what I was working on..... maybe you do the same? Every single one of your post seems to mention me now and I have the urge to defend myself, making it look like I like to spam or something.
Instead of making jab post... maybe make some videos and pics of how good your stuff is? Easy enough to comment on other peoples videos and such when you don't have your own for comparison.
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TommyDee
Vaporitor
Not at all. I don't consider Ni-Mh or Ni-Cd dangerous just because I've handled them for decades. The only incident I've had personally was trying to revive an old pack. They are a bundle of energy but nothing like what Li-Ion can do without significant effort. Therefore my statement is purely based on these limited energy cells. Therefore I may be defending these cells being utilitarian rather than dangerous. And I have been nothing but open with my findings as well. These are two sides of a coin. The only common factor is power.
As to understanding electronics, I work with power circuits every day. When I look at converters, the first device I look at is the choke. That wire gauge tells you exactly what to expect for current carrying capacity. And in the case of the Li-Ion cell bucked to 1.5V, it is only rated to 2.5 amps. Not enough for a LB.
Okay, crow-barring a car battery is over the top for dangerous, but I do know first hand what happens. We all play with dangerous toys. Lucky to have fingers after a serious drone incident (which is right up there with the 5th scale and novice).
And finally, I am not making up numbers. I've been very clear as to how I came up with those. And I have every intention to confirm them. 0.056 ohm is pretty close to what consensus in these posts had already stated as well. But I need a MOD that will confirm that or completely debunk it. Either way, I will understand a lot more at that time. But real numbers include my measurements of the input side of the PA v1.0. 2A/12V measured is all that goes into the LB. That 24 watts accounts for the converter, line losses, heat from the power head itself, and finally the screen. A MOD will settle the actual resistance at the rails. Not that it matters, but it is a variable I am determined to read for myself. Bottom line is this; 24 watts in; 1.15V at the rails at 24W in.From that I can confidently tell you that the current max is 20.87 amps. I knew this as fact already. In my experience, even 90% efficiency going from 12v to 1.15v is generous. That's 18.8 amps A long under-gauged cord... Any guesses? No-load voltage on the PA shows 1.8V at full power. And why does the power head heat up? more watts before the screen. So I took the simple calculation of 85% of 24W is 20.4A and at 1.15V measured that makes R 0.056 ohms. And yes, I am being -very- generous with efficiency. But for my purposes, I wanted to know what the design max would be. And saying it is 20 amps in the best of circumstances is the most the LB will produce with Ni-Cd or Ni-Mh cells. So you see, I've done all that work pages ago with the clear and detailed explanation of why and how I derived at those findings. If I reverse my thinking, indeed I might find a different value... but I certainly didn't pull my findings out of thin air. Let's reverse the numbers. You were told we were over 0.1 ohms IIRC for the LB. At 0.1 ohm, 1.15V is only 11.5 amps and 13.2 watts. Now the PA v1.0 55% efficient. And with my statement, you can see that I cannot argue that the screen is not in fact 0.056 ohms. However, based on my calcs, I would be unwise to settle for a MOD that limits to 0.1 ohms based on the information I have. And that information did include confirmation provided by others.
There is no argument whatsoever that a MOD would make short work of the LB. It is indeed the pinnacle of power management for our devices. I love the way you adapted it considering I was going for wires which made it a mess where repackaging a PA with a battery pack would suffice. So yes, I do want to power my LB with a MOD. Been wanting to since I got it 3 months back. Now I finally know of a reasonably priced MOD that should work. And rather than buy yet another tank, I can DIY the modification needed to work with Vaporesso's tank since it is already included. That was merely a comment. I have zero interest in carts. I was offering you the parts to fix yours since I won't need them.
And I will always approach a forum with tongue in cheek. This post is far to freakin' serious for my liking. I said once that I have no stake in this but to enhance the LB without going broke on VAS. I buy 10C scraps from electronic salvage; I buy $1 devices from China; I salvage nearly all I need for VAS. My Christmas was spent at DynaVap dude! I shared the cell; please share the MOD.
And don't take forums this seriously! I've been in forums since newsgroups were invented. I've seen it all. Yes, I am old as fucking dirt!
But I will razz the hell out of you given the chance
As to understanding electronics, I work with power circuits every day. When I look at converters, the first device I look at is the choke. That wire gauge tells you exactly what to expect for current carrying capacity. And in the case of the Li-Ion cell bucked to 1.5V, it is only rated to 2.5 amps. Not enough for a LB.
Okay, crow-barring a car battery is over the top for dangerous, but I do know first hand what happens. We all play with dangerous toys. Lucky to have fingers after a serious drone incident (which is right up there with the 5th scale and novice).
And finally, I am not making up numbers. I've been very clear as to how I came up with those. And I have every intention to confirm them. 0.056 ohm is pretty close to what consensus in these posts had already stated as well. But I need a MOD that will confirm that or completely debunk it. Either way, I will understand a lot more at that time. But real numbers include my measurements of the input side of the PA v1.0. 2A/12V measured is all that goes into the LB. That 24 watts accounts for the converter, line losses, heat from the power head itself, and finally the screen. A MOD will settle the actual resistance at the rails. Not that it matters, but it is a variable I am determined to read for myself. Bottom line is this; 24 watts in; 1.15V at the rails at 24W in.From that I can confidently tell you that the current max is 20.87 amps. I knew this as fact already. In my experience, even 90% efficiency going from 12v to 1.15v is generous. That's 18.8 amps A long under-gauged cord... Any guesses? No-load voltage on the PA shows 1.8V at full power. And why does the power head heat up? more watts before the screen. So I took the simple calculation of 85% of 24W is 20.4A and at 1.15V measured that makes R 0.056 ohms. And yes, I am being -very- generous with efficiency. But for my purposes, I wanted to know what the design max would be. And saying it is 20 amps in the best of circumstances is the most the LB will produce with Ni-Cd or Ni-Mh cells. So you see, I've done all that work pages ago with the clear and detailed explanation of why and how I derived at those findings. If I reverse my thinking, indeed I might find a different value... but I certainly didn't pull my findings out of thin air. Let's reverse the numbers. You were told we were over 0.1 ohms IIRC for the LB. At 0.1 ohm, 1.15V is only 11.5 amps and 13.2 watts. Now the PA v1.0 55% efficient. And with my statement, you can see that I cannot argue that the screen is not in fact 0.056 ohms. However, based on my calcs, I would be unwise to settle for a MOD that limits to 0.1 ohms based on the information I have. And that information did include confirmation provided by others.
There is no argument whatsoever that a MOD would make short work of the LB. It is indeed the pinnacle of power management for our devices. I love the way you adapted it considering I was going for wires which made it a mess where repackaging a PA with a battery pack would suffice. So yes, I do want to power my LB with a MOD. Been wanting to since I got it 3 months back. Now I finally know of a reasonably priced MOD that should work. And rather than buy yet another tank, I can DIY the modification needed to work with Vaporesso's tank since it is already included. That was merely a comment. I have zero interest in carts. I was offering you the parts to fix yours since I won't need them.
And I will always approach a forum with tongue in cheek. This post is far to freakin' serious for my liking. I said once that I have no stake in this but to enhance the LB without going broke on VAS. I buy 10C scraps from electronic salvage; I buy $1 devices from China; I salvage nearly all I need for VAS. My Christmas was spent at DynaVap dude! I shared the cell; please share the MOD.
And don't take forums this seriously! I've been in forums since newsgroups were invented. I've seen it all. Yes, I am old as fucking dirt!
But I will razz the hell out of you given the chance
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
Sorry, I have to mention this. It affects everyone. AA performance drops A LOT after 2a or so.
Latest gen eneloop show significant performance lost after 2.5a https://eneloop101.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/BK-3HCC.pdf
Powerex Pro 2700mah shows even significant performance lost after even 1.5a https://mahaenergy.com/powerex-pro/
The mflb seems to be designed to run on underrated batteries?
Latest gen eneloop show significant performance lost after 2.5a https://eneloop101.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/BK-3HCC.pdf
Powerex Pro 2700mah shows even significant performance lost after even 1.5a https://mahaenergy.com/powerex-pro/
The mflb seems to be designed to run on underrated batteries?
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TommyDee
Vaporitor
I'm glad someone else said that. I won't argue that fact. There use to be a different AA cell type that functioned perfectly. That is only because the internal resistance was below what the MF resistance was. The reason eneloops and powerex is failing is that their internal resistance is optimized for low self-discharge.
I have 2 functional Glyph AA cells that have a very low internal resistance. They work perfectly in the LB without overheating. I have 2 gold Glyph cells that demonstrate excellent internal resistance but their capacity is only 1/2 the rated capacity. All the other cells get hot when used and when charged. They are junk for the LB. And it is these same junk cells that are now being supplied with LB's. Now you see the reason for my epic quest.
Now mind you that MD doesn't have that problem. Powerex can do a MD screen with ease. Performance lag yes, but they don't overheat with use. But I do have quite a few that get very hot while charging.
I have 2 functional Glyph AA cells that have a very low internal resistance. They work perfectly in the LB without overheating. I have 2 gold Glyph cells that demonstrate excellent internal resistance but their capacity is only 1/2 the rated capacity. All the other cells get hot when used and when charged. They are junk for the LB. And it is these same junk cells that are now being supplied with LB's. Now you see the reason for my epic quest.
Now mind you that MD doesn't have that problem. Powerex can do a MD screen with ease. Performance lag yes, but they don't overheat with use. But I do have quite a few that get very hot while charging.
<<== choir 
<<==preach
Choices
Well-Known Member
@scy123 my Target Mini 2 arrived and I am waiting on my Billow v2 RTA. I found the $22 price point at Vape8. They had a code, BGG8FB I think, that negates some of the shipping cost to get the aforementioned price... Actually you can get under $20 if you choose the USPS shipping option...
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scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
Man, no idea how they make money selling those for $20. Tank and mod too, pretty good stuff.
Couple things to keep in mind.
Mods uses watts to express power, I would keep it low and adjust accordingly. Last thing you want is for the screen to glow. The original uses around 10w so keep it well under 10w to see how it reacts.
The Target Mini 2 has 3 "usable" modes, variable watts/variable volts/temp control.
Variable watts is what you want, since watts is the actual power going to the device. Variable watts has 3 modes to it, high/normal/soft. This represents the watts boost at beginning of draw. It will boost watts at beginning of draw to lower heat up time. Very useful, you might want to set this to high, but play with it and see.
Doubt you want to play with variable volts, but I do suggest to stay away from temp control modes. Unless you have tight connections and accurate tcr, high chance you will glow the screen with this mode. Oh and whatever you do, do not use bypass mode lolololololol
Couple things to keep in mind.
Mods uses watts to express power, I would keep it low and adjust accordingly. Last thing you want is for the screen to glow. The original uses around 10w so keep it well under 10w to see how it reacts.
The Target Mini 2 has 3 "usable" modes, variable watts/variable volts/temp control.
Variable watts is what you want, since watts is the actual power going to the device. Variable watts has 3 modes to it, high/normal/soft. This represents the watts boost at beginning of draw. It will boost watts at beginning of draw to lower heat up time. Very useful, you might want to set this to high, but play with it and see.
Doubt you want to play with variable volts, but I do suggest to stay away from temp control modes. Unless you have tight connections and accurate tcr, high chance you will glow the screen with this mode. Oh and whatever you do, do not use bypass mode lolololololol
