The Magic-Flight Box
- Thread starter magicflight
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scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
For Maud Dib users.
MFLB temp regulated at 400f and set max 70w it can use.
https://i.imgur.com/CrjDPEu.mp4
You can see it sorts of glows red when the load runs down, but then temp regulates itself. it is firing until end of video also. The glowing is a problem, but in infancy. BTW a straight 70w with no load would glow and blow the screen in seconds, so you know it's temp limiting. https://i.imgur.com/uNZyJYe.mp4
Edit: imgur works funny with fc. You have to copy and paste full link for some reason
MFLB temp regulated at 400f and set max 70w it can use.
https://i.imgur.com/CrjDPEu.mp4
You can see it sorts of glows red when the load runs down, but then temp regulates itself. it is firing until end of video also. The glowing is a problem, but in infancy. BTW a straight 70w with no load would glow and blow the screen in seconds, so you know it's temp limiting. https://i.imgur.com/uNZyJYe.mp4
Edit: imgur works funny with fc. You have to copy and paste full link for some reason
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Imgur - I just click twice in the address bar and it fixes the link. That is because FC doesn't send the HTTPS://
I did glow a new MD screen with about 1.4V. It glowed! But it still worked fine and was no more brittle than before. I was cleaning them with a blow torch being careful not to overdo it. I suspect the fuse-current is well over 50 amps at ambient with no airflow. What voltage did that flair go up to?
Love the test setup
BTW, you got the Hobbit reference right? Those be MF peeps.
I did glow a new MD screen with about 1.4V. It glowed! But it still worked fine and was no more brittle than before. I was cleaning them with a blow torch being careful not to overdo it. I suspect the fuse-current is well over 50 amps at ambient with no airflow. What voltage did that flair go up to?
Love the test setup
BTW, you got the Hobbit reference right? Those be MF peeps.
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
Hobbit part no sorry, I actually moved to oil pens long ago cause more convenient with extracts, and don't really follow mflb.
Edit; just so know I am serious user. this is my oil pen https://i.imgur.com/lFMImKE.jpg rolled mesh with coils heating mesh.... heating distillate.
Edit: btw I make my own Maud Dib screens. I don't clean... just burn out lol. Screens are really cheap to make like 25c maybe. So I don't really care if breaks. Can check out my reddit post for info on Maud Dib screens I have same username.
Edit; just so know I am serious user. this is my oil pen https://i.imgur.com/lFMImKE.jpg rolled mesh with coils heating mesh.... heating distillate.
Edit: btw I make my own Maud Dib screens. I don't clean... just burn out lol. Screens are really cheap to make like 25c maybe. So I don't really care if breaks. Can check out my reddit post for info on Maud Dib screens I have same username.
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TommyDee
Vaporitor
I see what you did 
I am seriously hooked on the taste of flower. Between the VC and the LB, the LB is much more of a heavy lifter. It's not easy to consume a 1/2G of herb every evening! But I am not getting the compounds I need from concentrate. And I have to work at it to get it from flower. I only have a few strains that actually work for my debilitating cramps. In that sense alone, combustion was much easier. Not something I want to go back to so making vaping work for me is a quest. But it has to be outdoors. I'm giving the Tinymight a good hard look for a more serious weed-eater.
I am seriously hooked on the taste of flower. Between the VC and the LB, the LB is much more of a heavy lifter. It's not easy to consume a 1/2G of herb every evening! But I am not getting the compounds I need from concentrate. And I have to work at it to get it from flower. I only have a few strains that actually work for my debilitating cramps. In that sense alone, combustion was much easier. Not something I want to go back to so making vaping work for me is a quest. But it has to be outdoors. I'm giving the Tinymight a good hard look for a more serious weed-eater.
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
Here is something just for kicks.
https://i.imgur.com/GlzJ4zn.png
Please note I would attempt to put a replaceable fuse that would blow before it glows on final product.
https://i.imgur.com/GlzJ4zn.png
Please note I would attempt to put a replaceable fuse that would blow before it glows on final product.
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
500 mesh ss316L. Common mesh for ecigs. Stuffs pretty useful sometimes, but I diy a lot.
Btw it's folded with 3 layers not just 1.
Edit: also don't know if your cracking joke at my diy screen or not... works just fine and more adjustable then official maud dib screens. Maud Dib screens are also scarce right now and talks of discontinue. Try to find one anywhere I even dare you.
This should also be a psa, if you see maud dib screens, might wanna buy.
Btw it's folded with 3 layers not just 1.
Edit: also don't know if your cracking joke at my diy screen or not... works just fine and more adjustable then official maud dib screens. Maud Dib screens are also scarce right now and talks of discontinue. Try to find one anywhere I even dare you.
This should also be a psa, if you see maud dib screens, might wanna buy.
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TommyDee
Vaporitor
No worries. I caught it. This whole vape thing is medical for me but that doesn't discount the knowledge I've gained over a lifetime chasing wackybaccy. Only problem I created for myself was backing out for nearly 15 years and look what happened! Vape happened. That is 15 years of opportunity lost ![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
Was actually testing a mod powered Solo. It's only the tiny cup you need to heat. https://i.imgur.com/wTpIvdo.jpg
A mod with temp control should do very well with that. 10s might be too short. Just started on testing yesterday so dunno. Tried hooking the standard solo cermaic disk to my mod, but it's over 3.0ohm at operating temp and only my 3 cell mod would of been able to go up to 3.0ohm. That mod was down for repair though, So testing stalled.
If you wanna ask why, you would only need like $5 worth of materials to make if you had a mod. And it would boost with full set power till it reached temp... So like 2s to reach temp maybe.
Edit: Man do I love gaining knowledge though... I do admit that only things I find useful and can understand lol.
A mod with temp control should do very well with that. 10s might be too short. Just started on testing yesterday so dunno. Tried hooking the standard solo cermaic disk to my mod, but it's over 3.0ohm at operating temp and only my 3 cell mod would of been able to go up to 3.0ohm. That mod was down for repair though, So testing stalled.
If you wanna ask why, you would only need like $5 worth of materials to make if you had a mod. And it would boost with full set power till it reached temp... So like 2s to reach temp maybe.
Edit: Man do I love gaining knowledge though... I do admit that only things I find useful and can understand lol.
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TommyDee
Vaporitor
I went to look for the screen I ripped out of the warranted LB but it's lost. Wanted to confirm the mesh size. I definitely want some just for DIY projects. Who sources your screen? I need to order some finer round screens. Working on a portable log of all things. Challenge: MiniVolt vs 20W micro-log.
Why did you choose 316L over 304?
...thought on the 3-ohm dilemma - put a shunt across it to change the resistance and pump the extra current through the shunt.
Why did you choose 316L over 304?
...thought on the 3-ohm dilemma - put a shunt across it to change the resistance and pump the extra current through the shunt.
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
316L is marine grade so a lot higher rust resist. Plus it's surgical grade so I can say it's surgical grade stainless steel LOL. Didn't really look much more into it other then all the top brands touted 316l.
I actually don't know the mesh count on the original mflb. The origenal mflb screen does look the same as my 500 mesh.
Mesh is back in on the ecig screen, should be able to get at any vape store. https://www.elementvape.com/vandy-vape-mesh-wire-spools-5-feet for example.... their mesh count seems low though.
When I bought mines I actually just bought a whole bunch from bulk supplier. Just need to ask them and confirm and all that good stuff that it is pure 316L stainless steel and no coatings or whatever. Coatings = really bad.
Edit:
The ceramic disc seems like a standard ceramic disc you can get, probably gonna just get a lower ohm rated one.
I actually don't know the mesh count on the original mflb. The origenal mflb screen does look the same as my 500 mesh.
Mesh is back in on the ecig screen, should be able to get at any vape store. https://www.elementvape.com/vandy-vape-mesh-wire-spools-5-feet for example.... their mesh count seems low though.
When I bought mines I actually just bought a whole bunch from bulk supplier. Just need to ask them and confirm and all that good stuff that it is pure 316L stainless steel and no coatings or whatever. Coatings = really bad.
Edit:
The ceramic disc seems like a standard ceramic disc you can get, probably gonna just get a lower ohm rated one.
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scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
Just don't get hooked on the nicotine.... it's a long path. In my case I like to think the knowledge I gained helps me though.
Edit: also on the 316L vs 304 part. A lot of my 304 tanks end up looks like this after I forget about it for months-years. https://i.imgur.com/zXlIwDo.jpg Don't even know what that is....
Can't really compare to my 316L cause those are all high end and get regular use.
Edit: now that think about. That might not even really be 304 ss. It only happens to a couple tanks. Some known 304 ss has no problems with that.
Edit: also on the 316L vs 304 part. A lot of my 304 tanks end up looks like this after I forget about it for months-years. https://i.imgur.com/zXlIwDo.jpg Don't even know what that is....
Can't really compare to my 316L cause those are all high end and get regular use.
Edit: now that think about. That might not even really be 304 ss. It only happens to a couple tanks. Some known 304 ss has no problems with that.
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welcome hemp! 
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
Sorry missed this question. You can see the wattage set on videos. You can use ohms law. One variable is watts and the other is screen ohms. This screen was 0.256ohm if I remember correctly. 70w on a 0.256ohm screen would = 4.23v. This is rough calculation. My mod could show graph but I didn’t hook up.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
I saw the 70W and I can assume 0.23 ohms still. But it would be interesting to know where the peek voltage went to. That will tell you something about that little glow in the earlier session. Essentially characterizing the response to feedback. That is one thing in these mods is that they are often seriously back-loaded on data. Lag time and other characteristics will show up in your plots.
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
The material would change resistance as temperature rise. The mod would continually check resistance and adjust voltages to match set wattage. Resistance is lowest at room temp so voltage would peak at room temp. This is on straight wattage mode.
Edit: this is acually opposite.
Oh you where talking about in the 400f temp control mode. I actually have no data on that, besides the video. I should of hooked it up. This was actually first test after adjustments. You can see the screen is new.
With temp control it would boost up to 400f as fast as it can with the max watts available... I set at 70w. It could of boosted 70w at start and throttle to 5w at end... should of got graph lol.
Edit: tried to get the graph but the connections must off been off and it got too hot, was not far off though, started good but ended off glowing. Getting a tight connection is a major concern. Will do more test after I design the actual thing as to not waste loads.
Edit: this is acually opposite.
Oh you where talking about in the 400f temp control mode. I actually have no data on that, besides the video. I should of hooked it up. This was actually first test after adjustments. You can see the screen is new.
With temp control it would boost up to 400f as fast as it can with the max watts available... I set at 70w. It could of boosted 70w at start and throttle to 5w at end... should of got graph lol.
Edit: tried to get the graph but the connections must off been off and it got too hot, was not far off though, started good but ended off glowing. Getting a tight connection is a major concern. Will do more test after I design the actual thing as to not waste loads.
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