Along with the MH-C9000 you may want to look at the Opus BT-C3100 charger.If you don't mind spending a little more, check out the MaHa Powerex MH-C9000 charger. It has a greater range of charging currents (including 2000mA per cell), and it will charge one to four batteries at the maximum rate, not just two. Now that the sale price on the bc-900 appears to be finished, the two cost almost exactly the same amount, though the MH-C9000 does not normally include free batteries.
Just my 2.
Haywood
I strongly disagree about the MH-C9000 being "a bit arcane for the average user."Hi,
Agreed about the MaHa MH-C9000. We use them as well and find them to be excellent. A bit arcane for the average user, but for those who are into the advanced "tech" of rechargeable batteries, it is a great unit. For people who simply want to get their batteries charged quickly, a good alternative is the Energizer 15 minute charger (a little less expensive). Also, for those who want to have a set of 'reserve' batteries which are sure to remain charged after sitting in your car for months, the Sanyo Eneloop batteries and chargers are unbeatable in terms of quality and maintainability. For the true vapor technicians, using all three of these products in succession, or together in an appropriate mix, is as good as it gets short of a dedicated battery lab.
-- Magic-Flight
So my old batts (over 4 years old pre-glyphs) had finally got so weak that I just ordered the Glyphs.
A few questions. One, does anyone know approx. how many charge cycles I can get out of these, and two, are the standard recommendations for charging/discharging standard NiMH batteries any different for these, that is, avoiding deep discharge, etc.
Four years, about time don'cha think? You must be on your second (or even 3rd) ounce by now? Got your money's worth from the first batch........
Cycle life depends too much on treatment to make useful projections I think. Anything from a hundred or so (for bad abuse) to a thousand (for 'near ideal') is probably possible. The keys are avoiding deep discharges (past 1.1 Volts IIRC) and never miss termination (charger failure, instantly fatal).
Otherwise they are basically the same deal as before (just optimized for what we want......BRUTE POWER). The chemistry is basically the same, mechanical construction (thicker/wider conductors) modified. The should last much like the originals. You'll need another set in 2019 or so........
I'm sure you'll enjoy them, they are superior.
OF
I would not bet the farm on that. Remember, higher mAh batteries are useless in the Box. Internal resistance, which rises as it ages, can prevent the battery from delivering that current at a fast enough rate to satisfy our little friend. That could well end their useful life while they still work fine in a flashlight.When I first put them on, they read 1589/2030 after the first cycle. They are on the third cycle now and they are reading 2280/2310 respectively and those numbers will probably go up a bit in a few more cycles, so looking at these numbers, it looks like they just needed a bit of refreshing exercise.
I would not bet the farm on that. Remember, higher mAh batteries are useless in the Box. Internal resistance, which rises as it ages, can prevent the battery from delivering that current at a fast enough rate to satisfy our little friend. That could well end their useful life while they still work fine in a flashlight.
MFLB needs like 15 Amps, far outside most batteries ability.
OF
I didn't know that. Great info. Thanks. A little wary though of using batteries that are stripped of their outside coating on anything else other than the MFLB...........or so I was told. Should I be?
The point I was making is that just because a battery charger says it's got useful capacity doesn't mean the MFLB will agree.
Would I have been better off just using one batt fresh off the charger until it finally died over a period of months and trashing it before bringing the other batt into play rather than rotating the batts as I did or.............being that I use them so infrequently, it really doesn't make difference. (hope I was clear in explaining this)
Yeah. The reason I asked is because the batts see a LOT more downtime when I rotate them as I have. Didn't know if it was better for them to be idle like that or to exercise them a bit more often.
The keys remain don't over discharge, keep them cool and avoid failure to terminate (lame charger) at all costs. One over deep discharge or failed charge termination can be fatal.
OF
Along with the MH-C9000 you may want to look at the Opus BT-C3100 charger.
Compared to the PowerEx the BT-C3100 is quicker to setup, has similar functions (simultaneously charging and/or discharging four batteries with different settings) and readouts, costs a little less, and will also charge the 3.7v battery from the Arizer Air as well as many flashlights and cameras.
I've had both units on my kitchen counter for a few weeks now.
One thing I've noticed with the glyph batteries are that they don't hold a charge quite as long in storage as the older stock ones did... I generally do a trench at a time and not just one hit so what I do is switch out between a pair with each trench.
...
For easy marking try wrapping the end of the batteries with 1" wide cloth tape.... We've started to mark the Glyph's with a Sharpie that aren't performing well so we know which to put through a refresh cycle and which to simply charge up. The Glyph's that I refreshed worked surprisingly well afterwards but they also weaken quicker than the other Glyphs. I had one Glyph that I marked early on as a weak link and after the refresh it was way better but not as strong as a new Glyph. Diminishing returns on the refresh seems to be the case.
A one pound Folgers can, (red plastic), works as a "bong case", for an Orbiter. It may look funky as is, but you wouldn't confuse it for a "bong case". Put a couple of notches in the right places, it can be used on the go. Use your imagination.Does anyone know of a case that would fit the Orbiter?
@OF - - Did you measure the actual MFLB current draw yourself, or did this value come from another source?
Thanks
I would bet that if we took a poll here at FC to find out what percentage of our active members consider themselves afflicted with some form of OCD, I would think that it would be as high as 90% or more, eh?
Thanks @OF ... it's good to accumulate factual info ... glad you made the non-trivial effort!Both. That number came originally from MF. It sounded big to me so I tried measuring it myself, not at all easy. I finally used the voltage drop down one of the copper rails (the minus one). One volt meter lead on the loop/battery body the other poked in the hole in the front to make contact. I calibrated at about 3 Amps from a bench supply the let rip with a real battery. I got answers around 15A, I think that number is good.
BTW that's at about 3/4 of a Volt across the screen rails so we're talking about 12 Watts, which also seems reasonable to me given the performance.
Not at all trivial
Makes sense, who wants to be left off that list?
OF
It's kinda ghetto, but I've been using the box it came in since I got it at launch. I set the orbiter in the center of a handkerchief, pull all four corners to the top, drop it in the box, and close it. The size is pretty much as small as you can get, and the handkerchief provides enough padding to survive any drops or bangs. The Orbiter is pretty durable in the first place.Does anyone know of a case that would fit the Orbiter?